UKC

Suggested shoes for Font polished slabs

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 pipcollier 18 Apr 2014
Anyone suggest a good climbing shoe for Font?

I have been many times but have tried hard to improve my grade passed 7a. On overhangs I do well wearing solutions / futuras.

However totally grounded on polished footholds on slabs in pretty much whichever shoe i have worn.

Any suggestions?
 Lesdavmor 18 Apr 2014
In reply to pipcollier:

Tricounis?
OP pipcollier 18 Apr 2014
In reply to Lesdavmor:
Very helpful
astley007 18 Apr 2014
In reply to pipcollier:

EB's, dependant on your age?
 FreshSlate 18 Apr 2014
In reply to pipcollier:
I think the french use prick stick on the bottom of their shoes and on their hands.

Chalk is banned, and you will be assaulted if not wearing a beanie.

Glad to be of help .


Edit:
Didn't see you'd been before, damn... I mean, the rules have changed since the last time you went. It's like this now honest.
Post edited at 23:12
 Duncan Bourne 18 Apr 2014
In reply to FreshSlate:

Nope chalk isn't banned but it will reveal you to be BRITISH!
Best just to wear a flat cap and make the best of it
 FreshSlate 18 Apr 2014
In reply to Duncan Bourne:

Flatcap.

Love it.
 Bruce Hooker 19 Apr 2014
In reply to pipcollier:

Some stuff is so polished as to be pretty well unclimbable without poff... best just do something else, there's no lack of boulders.
In reply to pipcollier:
> However totally grounded on polished footholds on slabs in pretty much whichever shoe i have worn.

Same here! On my last trip in the same afternoon as managing a 7A+ at Apremont I got completely shut down by the classic 6A slab, La Science Friction!

> Any suggestions?

I now just admit I am useless at Font slabs...
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