UKC

Chamonix - Recommended multipitch routes?

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 CJoyce 19 Apr 2014
I'm heading out to Chamonix in June. Can anybody recommend any long multipitch routes that they've done? We're climbing in the 5's and lower 6 grades. Thanks!
 wbo 19 Apr 2014
In reply to Chris Joyce:
I think a bit more detail about what you want would help ? How adept are you at plaging trad gear, getting over snow, glaciers and so on.

Majorette thatcher on the blat for starters
 liz j 19 Apr 2014
In reply to Chris Joyce:

L'ete Indien is a lovely 6 pitch bolted route in the Berard Valley. The walk in is lovely, the setting beautiful and you are unlikely to be sharing the route with anyone. The rock is lovely and clean and the gear is excellent.

If you fancy a bit more adventure, then there are lots of routes up at the Envers which are around those grades. Some of the approaches can be on glaciers though, so you would have to check that the rimayes are passable. Amazonia is great, and there is no glacier and only 20 mins from the hut. There are also some nice climbs below the hut that you can access from the banks of the Mer de Glace.

 McGuinness 19 Apr 2014
In reply to Chris Joyce:

Bloody tonnes of multipitch sport down in the valley around Sallanches. The Vallee d'Arve guidebook covers this area well.
 betathief 19 Apr 2014
In reply to Chris Joyce:

We brought this guide book in Chamonix after a look in the guides office, packed with loads of multi pitch routes in the grades you are looking for.

http://www.rockrun.com/mont-blanc-classic-and-plaisir/
 Nick_Scots 20 Apr 2014
In reply to Chris Joyce:

Never climbed any in the Aiguilles d Envers area. But bought the guide, you can drool overt the routes.

Valorcine/Barberine is good for a day to slick your rope work/abbing set ups near the floor.
 Andy Lagan 20 Apr 2014
In reply to Chris Joyce:

Hi, Escalades Choisies,
http://www.auvieuxcampeur.fr/cartotheque-librairie/les-topos-d-escalade-d-a...
is a good buy. +1 for Amazonia ( Brilliant) and L'Ete Indien ( nice and quiet). The guide is 100% full of really good routes, and cheap too. Le Marchand du Sable and Bienvenue George V are others that come to mind.
Another nice option is the Parat Seignier on Auguille Praz Torrent, a good steep approach that keeps the crowds away.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=99463
 TobyA 20 Apr 2014
In reply to Chris Joyce:

I thought the Couzy Route on the Aigulle L'M was great fun (at about UK HVS). It's about the same size as a good Scottish multipitch so not intimidating but the views are super and it feels proper alpine. Even the descent down a snow gully and ladders onto the glacier all added to the experience.
 liz j 20 Apr 2014
In reply to Andy Lagan:

Agree with the Parat Seignier, another good route I've done.
There is also the Voie Rieffel/Fournier-Pain de Sucre on Des Perrons which is a good 300m at 5c+/6a. The setting is spectacular, and you can either abseil back down Squateur de Lune or walk off the back. You get to look over the Emosson Dam on the approach.

Another cracking route is the Voie Bron-Gamboni on the Tour des Crochues.

If you buy the Dulac/Perroux guide to the Aig Rouges, there is loads to go in there without having to worry about glacier travel.

If you fancy some limestone, then Le Petit Bargy near Reposoir is fantastic, routes upto 400m long. You would need transport to get there though.
 Willythegreat 20 Apr 2014
In reply to Chris Joyce:

Chappelle de le gliere . Nice leisurely day out
 woollardjt 20 Apr 2014
In reply to Chris Joyce:

If your old man is mark, I have already given him enough guide books to open a library

I've chatted with him about some routes, the lift opening times will dictate what's possible in the first week.

But drop me an email what you are interested and I'll give you some suggestions

But more than likely I'll see you out there is I'm out in Cham the first week also
 jon 20 Apr 2014
In reply to liz j:


> If you buy the Dulac/Perroux guide to the Aig Rouges, there is loads to go in there without having to worry about glacier travel.

Well Liz, it's hopelessly outdated and far too selective. The two definitive guides to the Aiguilles Rouges by Piola - volumes 1 and 2(!) are tha ones to get. Vol 1 exists in English whereas Vol 2 (Mesure, Praz Torrent, Berarde, Très les Eaux, Perrons, Emosson area) is only in French for the moment - until at least 2015.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/book.php?id=1315
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/book.php?id=1199
 liz j 20 Apr 2014
In reply to jon:

Yes, you are probably right about that Jon!! Never got round to buying the Piola guides as I haven't climbed for the past three years. I still flick though the Envers guide every now and again and dream!!
1

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...