UKC

Ledge-CMD(or No4) VS Scheachda next Tues/Wed ???

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 tlbno1 20 Apr 2014
Thinking of either Ledge-CMD(or No4) VS Scheachda next Tues/Wed.

Any thoughts on best bet for (2nd to) last chance at a winter day out?
ie, amounts of snow on Ledge - cmd, and is No4 passable (downwards).

or

What's left that's doable in schneacha with an early start. ie jacobs/edge, any tridents without cornices. Haven't been there since 30th March.

Cheers

Tim _
http://notquitetouchingthevoid.blogspot.co.uk/
 Harry Holmes 20 Apr 2014
In reply to tlbno1:

I suspect both ledge route and CMD will be in quite nice condition. I down climbed no.4 on friday with a little traverse in from the right to avoid the cornice. I wouldnt want to have done it if it was any warmer though! Dunno how schneada is doing though
 Ron Walker 20 Apr 2014
In reply to tlbno1:

With regard to Sneachda see http://talisman-activities.blogspot.co.uk/
Recent condition details of The Runnel, Crotched Gully, Central Gully, The Mirror, Jacob's Ladder, Fingers Ridge and Pygmy Ridge and more are on the blog and the Talisman Facebook photo albums.
With regard to Jacob's Edge the natural and safest way is to climb two thirds of the way up Jacob's Ladder then finish left on the upper section of Jacobs Edge as this avoids any loose rock on the lower section.
In short with the high pressure weather system, an early start and finish the remaining complete easy gully lines have been simply superb over the last week. So has the rock climbing with a snowy approach and the skiing!
Despite the sun and high valley/plateau temperatures, snow in the shade is likely to be icy with a serious rocky runout for any slips. A few folk have been caught out...
Cheers Ron
 Simon Caldwell 20 Apr 2014
In reply to tlbno1:

We did ledge route and CMD arete on Friday, both were in summer condition.
OP tlbno1 21 Apr 2014
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Hi Simon

is that a def no snow then?
Looks like possible clag/wet weather in the east and was hoping far at least an alpine (ish) day out in the west.

Cheers

Tim
 luckyjim 21 Apr 2014
In reply to tlbno1:

There are still a fair few patches of snow on CMD Arete and on the final climb to the summit of the Ben
 luckyjim 21 Apr 2014
In reply to tlbno1: I ve put a picture of the Arete on the photos page from yesterday just to let you see how much snow there is

 Simon Caldwell 21 Apr 2014
In reply to tlbno1:

lots of snow between the arete and ben nevis. i managed without crampons but the others wore them and were much quicker. superb snow descent from cmd to the cic hut!
OP tlbno1 21 Apr 2014
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Cheers

west it is
OP tlbno1 21 Apr 2014
In reply to luckyjim:

Cheers

west it is then !

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