/ UKC Fit Club Week 370

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mattrm - on 20 Apr 2014
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.

Psyche video of the week - http://www.vimeo.com/42893621 (Ricky Bell with a broken toe) - Suggestions welcome

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity

Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=584158

Alun - INVINCIBLE!!! Good road bike miles and lots of problems. 69kgs sounds light to me, good effort.
hms - Has been CRUSHING the grit into little itty bitty bits. Well done on V3s and V4s!
mbh - 58 miles, the running machine returneth. Is the foot now fixed?
JimmyKay - Massive amounts of core work there. Had a good week on the grit.
mattrm - srsly? weak...
mrchewy - Indoor slab grades are weird, I agree. Maybe most route setters don't climb slabs? Also it's hard to mimic slabs on plywood. Keep up the falling practice, it'll help in the long run.
IainRUK - Like the number, 101. Nice.
Luke Owens - Firestarter is a f7A right? Congrats. Good luck on the 7c.
Nick Russell - Sorry? You soloed Riders on the Storm? Can you fit your balls into your trousers? Excellent bag of routes at Pembroke. If you don't like the 7b, no point pushing it just to get the tick. Got to like the route.
Ally - If you want Fisheye, then keep on working it, in my fat punter view. Don't compromise, just to get an easy tick. 8c is never going to be easy is it? There's a great article by Neil Gresham about climbing 8c in this month's Climber, maybe worth a read.
grubes - Worth making sure the bike is fitted ok for you. Slightly different foot positions can have a big difference.
ppg - Had wondered where you were the other week. Sounds like a nice holiday.
Humperdink - 75 miles? Can't process that to be honest. Well done. 15:32 for 5k? Mental... I'd be super happy with 24 mins tbh...
Tubb93 - Hope you're crushing Kaly.
Ali - Nice to meet you the other day. You made the rest of us at the crag look pretty crap. Well done on the 7a. Hope the orienteering went well.
AndrewW - Keep up with the training, it'll come good eventually, I'm sure.
Nomics4sale - I think 7a will always be hard. Unless you're Ally. Getting a wide range of 7as under your belt will be a good base for future crushage, so there's no great harm in enjoying the plateau for a while.
Exile - Lots of mtbing at North Wales trail centers with the family, sounds nice.
biscuit - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt.

Posting early this week as if i leave it i don't get round to it, so i've missed the last couple of weeks.

Not much to report. I had a nice trad day in Troy quarry the other week. First trad for well over a year and it showed. I gibbered my way up some routes and 2nd up to E2 easy enough. Biut cold/slimy in places and my gear selection/confidence was awful but i really enjoyed tradding again.

After that i started getting really tired and couldn't get any enthusiasm to do anything. Man flu kicked in a few days later which i'm still battling with now/. Very lethargic and chesty.

Manned up and went to Kilnsey last week. Got there late and warmed up on a 7b+ top rope ! Went OK though and after a couple more goes it's all there.Took a while to figure the crux. I'm using different beta than the local crag expert but it feels OK. Great route ( The Truth Drug ). Hard bouldery start to a hands off then v sustained vertical climbing for 3 clips. Just need to string it together. I wasn't recovering at the hands off rest, which i put down to being ill, as i was really out of breath when i got there. Main thing was no reaction from any of my poorly fingers. Indoors i can't do a lot but outdoors i can pull hard with no effect. Weird. I have been doing the exercise from the UKC article. Using weights on cord and doing 'curls' with the injured fingers and it seems to have worked.

I was looking forward to getting the draws back on Comedy, as this is my goal for Kilnsey season, but my daughter fell in the stream so i had to bail. Amazing efforts on it from The Fox. We all thought he'd got it at one point. The only person who didn't think that was him. 100% effort and new high points on every attempt. HArd work over WInter pays off shocker ! He MUST get it next time.

Got no kids for the week and it's sods law that i am feeling crap :-(

Bought a shiny new bike yesterday :-) At the moment looking at it makes me feel tired but i can't wait to get on it.

Need to get better and make the most of having no kids around. Lots of cycling and another trip to Kilnsey would be ideal but we'll have to wait and see.
stevemarkperry - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to biscuit:

> Bought a shiny new bike yesterday :-) At the moment looking at it makes me feel tired but i can't wait to get on it.

What have you gone for? I've just taken delivery of my new frameset which I built up this last week. My first outing on it was at the Chase on Friday and it's fast! Off over to Coed y Brenin with it tomorrow.
Joughton on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm: I'll do mine early as well as I'm definitely not doing anymore this week! I think I've missed the past couple of weeks, one because I was pretty ill so did no training, and one because I was in France! Had a pretty good trip but I wasn't in my best shape after being ill, as I'd only had three sessions in the three weeks leading up to it. Still felt strong but not recovering as well as I usually do on poor rests. Also, maybe due to low psyche, or maybe just being a bit more relaxed, I actually seemed to get very few routes done for a week-long trip. Anyway, we started out in the Tarn area...

Sat - Climbing at Gorges de la Jonte. Didn't fancy doing anything too hard on the first day, we only had a few hours, and Dad wanted to do a bigger route, so we did a five pitch 7a+ called La 8eme Leffe. Not a great route to start the trip on as the crux pitch was off-balance, technical and exposed - all the things I'm worst at at the start of a trip! Still, the climbing was good and the positions were great, looking down on big vultures circling.

Sun - A day at Gorge du Tarn. Warmed up on a nasty 6b with a very tough first move, then did a cool 6c+ up a corner called C 100 Francs. It looked fine from below but was actually very tricky and polished, pleased to make it up. Next up was a 7a, with a possible 7b+ extension if I felt like it (55m!) called Les Couilles au Cul. The 7a bit was fie, 35m but only one hard section, so I pushed on above the lower off and powerscreamed my way up the bulge above. This was very embarrassing but I was ridiculously pumped! There were a million pockets to choose from, and 999,990 of them were absolutely rubbish. Still, pushed on anyway and made it through the massive runout (four bolts in twenty metres) to top it onsight. Finished off failing on a 7b with a really hard-to-read bouldery slab crux. I liked it here but there wasn't much for mum and Tash to go at, so we only got the one day.

Mon - back at Gorges de la Jonte for some single pitch. Bit of a silly idea really as we only had a half day and the walk in was huge! So after warming up on a 6b and 6b+ I got on a really cool 7b called Le Maitre d'Ecole. Really cool route, very untravelled so super crozzly rock. Looks totally blank from below, then tiny positive pockets appear everywhere as you move up. Pleased to onsight this as it was tricky to read from below. Left early for a big drive the next day.

Tue - Baume Rousse, love this crag! Warmed up on a fun, steep and polished 6b called Le Caraille, and then from the top of that tried a 7a on the upper tier and took a flier! Really annoyed at myself but I totally misread the sequence and ended up with some very unhelpful holds. Despite this I still went on to try a 7b+ called Rahan, fils des Crao, which I'd wanted to do ever since I saw the picture in the guide years ago. This one went much easier, with lots of big holds and big shouldery moves, and good rests. Finished off doing a really nice 7b, really sustained with no hard moves.

Wed - Orpierre. Needed a rest day so belayed Mum on some easier stuff while Dad did a big route with Tash. However I gave in to temptation a did a fun 7a called Golum, with a couple of big moves climbing through a roof.

Thurs - Back at Le Chateau Sector, I did another 7a next to Golum, this one much harder, lots of tricky techy moves. Went on to do a 7b called Pas de Bras, Pas de Chocolat, which was very good but a bit polished. Someone recommended a 7c called Ca va Couiner to have a go at, saying it was nicely chalked up! I gave it a go and was surprised to get in onsight! It was weirdly steady, just lots of quite hard moves and no really hard moves, with a big lock off a crimp to a jug just before easy ground. However I did sneak off a metre to the left for a no hands rest, I think this is the done thing, but not totally sure! Finished off failing on yet another cruxy 7b, this time with a big bouldery snatch to a pocket, which I missed onsight.

Fri - Decided after Thursday that I should have a go at an 8a. Had a really good go at Game Over, which was an amazing route, and got all the moves dogging up, but it was just way to intense to link it all. It had four sections, each about V4/5, with a mini-rest between each one. I couldn't get nearly enough back at the rests, and so just burnt out going into the third section. It was a shame to give it away as it was an amazing route, but just too many hard moves!

Sat - bit of a frustrating last day, felt a bit pressured for time. Warmed up, then got straight on a 7b+. I was actually doing pretty well, but my foot slipped on a shiny section of tufa on easier ground above the crux. Bit gutted, but I had time to try another 7b+. I managed this one, but after a really hard crimpy lower section, it lost it's way higher up, so I wasn't sure whether I should've been making myself use the tiny holds next to the bolt line, or the bigger ones just to the side. All of which felt a bit unsatisfactory. Ah well, the rest of the trip was good!

1 x 7c, 2/3 x 7b+, 3 x 7b, 1 x 7a+, 4 x 7a, all onsight.

The plan for the next couple of months is mostly to get my head down and revise for my A-levels. I think I've decided on Newcastle University, where my offer is AAA, so I just need to make sure I get those!

However a big part of revision is procrastination so in between times I'm planning to restart my whole training cycle, so low volume, high intensity strength stuff. The plan is to get at least two fingerboarding sessions and one bouldering session each week, with some core supplements in there to and the occasional route session to make sure I don't get totally unfit. Then a break during exams, leading to applying the gains made to routes, hopefully taking about a month to get fit again ready to peak in the summer!

Long post, sorry!

Cheers, Jake
biscuit - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to stevemarkperry:

It's a Triban 7 from Decathlon.

http://www.cyclingactive.com/bikesgear/first-ride-btwin-triban-7-599-99

My first proper bike.

Wheels are supposed to be not that great but the frame and groupset are v good for the price. Can't wait to get on it !
Alun - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks matt!

STG - prepare for trips to Targassone (TICK!), and Lleida
MTG - Etape Eryri in June (165km on road bike). Redpoint 7c
LTG - 8a

This week was a big week for me as it featured a trip to Targassonne (see short term goals). I was there two years ago and, despite having a great time, found it very difficult, only managing to tick a couple of 6B+s. So I was keen to see what my new stronger, lighter, self would make of it now; and also keen to make sure that the first proper 'climbing' trip away with the family (wife + one y.o. daughter) went well!

So Mon-Wed rest, then Thursday morning drive to Targassone.

T - Staying in cabin in campsite, perfect for small family. Loads of sunshine. Easy afternoon bouldering at Sector Camping with some 5s and low 6s.

F - Croissant, pain au chocolat, coffee and a lovely lazy morning in the sunshine. Went to Sector Dieux Paďens after lunch. It's a nice place for young kids and non-climbers, so family had fun. I ticked several quality 6B and 6Cs, included a retro-flash of Pleasure Dome 6B+, a real classic problem which I had failed miserably on last time. This time it was easy :)

S - Another relaxing brekkie en famille and then back to Dieux Paďens. After warming up I got straight on the sit start to Pleasure Dome, which is 7A+ in most guides. It took me a few goes to figure out the starting sequence but once it was sorted it only took a couple of proper burns (and a very scary top out!) and I ticked it! Super chuffed to have done it so quickly, it's a great problem.

Then unfortunately we cut the trip short because our daughter was poorly with a cold and eye infection, so drove home in the afternoon to see the doctor. Good job too because last night she had fever and was upset, so much better to be at home. (Today she is much much better).

But in general it was a more than satisfactory trip. Family had a great time in the sunhine and open air, we ate loads of cheese and drank litres of Bordeaux, and I bouldered better than I have even done in my life. Result.

This week it's all change with my brother coming to visit, so out comes the lycra and road bike, and off we go with some long rides in the hills!
grubes - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:
> grubes - Worth making sure the bike is fitted ok for you. Slightly different foot positions can have a big difference.

STG (June of 2014):
Lose 8kg
complete my bike ride
A new tick at malham
Climb harder than 6A in font
MTG (End of 2014):
Lead E2 try onsight
7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Go to El Chorro
LTG (June of 2015):
Visit Kalymnos, catalunya and somewhere adventurous

This week's goals:
At least two large rides - Tick 30 and 15 miles
Cycle commute - Fail last minute inspection so needed the car at work
Get in a very large ride on Saturday - fail only 15 legs were tired before I set of did not want to push it.
Rest Sunday - Fail I went climbing

M: Bouldering at burbage Nordwand. Put cleos arete to bed finally ticked a 6B and some easier stuff to warm up. Worked remergence and hanging rib with no luck.
Came home
Cycled 7.8km with 98 m ascent
T: cycled 47.4km with 542m ascent.
W: Rest
T: cycled 13.7km with 106m ascent.
F: Rest
S: cycled 25.2km with 280m ascent.
S: Bouldering at the depot nice 2hours with tweaky fingers. Lost some tension and core strength with not climbing in a few weeks.

Next week Goals:
cycle the 244 miles for yorkshire air ambulance
get royally wasted on my return to huddersfield
Have a lazy sunday doing nothing! eating anything I like and not give a shit

Total mileage this week was roughly 58.5 miles with over 3300ft (1026m).
Tuesday night my bike goes and 530am I board a coach to London. 12 pm I set off on my ride for
Wednesday I ride from islington to cambridge 55-60 miles
Thursday cambridge to Leicester 70miles
Friday Leicester to Doncaster 75miles
Saturday morning Doncaster to huddersfield 41 miles

I can not wait. I am going to write a pre journey blog later if anyone is interested.

I was going to rest today but I decided to climb instead. Nice depot session. First half I was all over the place then second half things made sense. I definately think I have lost some core and tension. I had a great session at Burbage on monday night. I love warm grit evening with the orange glow as the sun sets. Makes it all worth the trip even if you only get a couple of ticks
Post edited at 15:53
Exile - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for doing fit club. mtbing was great and proves a change is s good as a rest!

Aims:

Spring HP The Asylum E5 6a(?) RP 7a quickly then possibly 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)

Summer Lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)

Next winter start with VI 7

Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

M: 2hrs mtbing on skills park at Coed y Brenin with my lads before driving home
T: 2hrs climbing on a Vision of Things Gone Wild, 7b, at Scout Scar. A very good session - last year I could link some of the moves is two or three move blocks, this time in two top rope goes I linked the bottom of the route to the crux and from the crux to the top. Need to spend a session sussing the crux now.
W: More MTBing with the family - blue with red bits as Gisburn
T: Nothing
F: 2.5hrs. Tope roped Asylum, E5 6a, at Trowbarrow. Got it clean on second ascent so pleased with that. Don't think I'll lead it though as the gear that a lad I know described as 'just good enough' is 'nowhere near good enough' for me! I think there is a real potential for falling off 6a moves at the top and hitting the floor. May have another look at it though just to ensure I haven't missed anything gear wise.
S: Nothing
S: 2 hrs climbing at Scout Scar. Cold. Put a rope down Leather Pets, 6c+, (my mates project,) and had three goes on it. Did all the moves and linked it in two halves. Should have TRed it in one but spent too long on the strenuous crux faffing to ensure I got the right foothold, (which is blind,) rather than just slapping it on and pulling.

A good week, really benefited from a rest last week. Could do with adding in a little adult cardio again this coming week and keeping the climbing up.

Weight this morning 11st 12ld, going down!

hms - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for doing fitclub, sorry I couldn't climb with you on Fri - after 6 days on it would not have been a good plan! Your write-up pretty much covers the second half of my week away.

M Stanage apparent north. The problems here seemed to have more in the way of conventional holds and less smearing on nothingness. Good day - I got 3xV3 & 1xV4 so goal for week definitely ticked.
T Stanage plantation, pebble boulder area. Back to smears and slopers. Got a couple of extremely thin V2s, plus another V3. Lost lots of skin from my right hand - crimp popped ad I managed to drag my knuckles down a very rough wall - ouch.
W Stanage plantation, grand hotel boulder area. Another solid V3 plus a V4 (it was soft, but I didn't know that at the time). Managed to grate my chin when my foot popped on my final warm-down problem of the day - grit doesn't take any prisoners, does it!
T travel home
F rest, did walk a couple of miles.
S another couple of miles. UCR in the afternoon. Circuits have been reset and they seem bloody hard - the 6c I got by the skin of my teeth, the 7a no-where near. They seem to have poor feet so lots of arm strength needed, and no rests at all - just 40 moves of unrelenting hard. Touch depressing.
S Bloc, tried the comp problems, inc some of the final ones on the v high comp wall. I'm a woefully static climber at the best of times. I can force myself to be a bit more springy, but the further off the ground I am the harder it is. I'm finding the height at Bloc is doing nothing for these hang-ups at all - the last thing I want is to have to make a huge confident shove when 4.5m off the deck.

MTG - for bouldering, more V4 and see about V5 (have to look up font grades for them, as that's what seems to be used for the not especially plentiful local bouldering)
for routes, build up my pyramid, so get on more 7a+ & 7b.

LTG - another 7b+ (or possibly 7c if I find the right route)
mrchewy - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt.

Head is still not right after decking out, then biting through my tongue bouldering but at least my mate who fell 300m in Feb is back at work - I've had it easy! Decided to tackle my new found mental issues head on on, so...

Mon - Easy boulder. Then on the steeper stuff but knee complained instantly. So sacked it off.
Tue - Knee sore, so rest.
Wed - Worked late and then drove to Wales.
Thu - Dinorwig. Seconded Looning the Tube, failed attempt at Gaddafi Duck and then tried Goose Creature E3 6a. No top roping, just straight on lead.
Fri - Dinorwig. Seconded Alive and Kicking plus new extension!!! The lowers off are f*cked, so it was onwards and left with no gear to the top of Bella Lugosi. Then led Bella Lugosi is Dead E1 5b. Brain lost it a bit at times, disco leg appeared but kept it together. My first 'proper' E1. Waited till dark, yes dark, then set off on Snakes and Ladders - not much idea off where we were going as neither of us had been to California, Mordor, Lost World, Dali's Hole or even to the bottom of Australia. Eventually bailed in Australia as we could see nothing and had no idea how to find the ladders. Had a look at Jerry's Roof about midnight...
Sat - Soloed Ordinary Route on Idwal Slabs, then Cneiffon Arete, up Gribin and down Bristly Ridge to finish. Bailed before Tryfan as knee was right grumpy.
Sun - Repeaters in a bit.

A good week I feel - tried to lead my first British tech 6a route and for those who know Goose Creature, I even managed to stand quite happily on that ridiculous smear. This led to being too static when I got the right foot up and couldn't actually then stand up from the rockover. Definitely needs to be done dynamically. Good to get on one of the routes I targeted this year.
Bella Lugosi is Dead (obviously) but my goal of three E1s this year will be buried with him shortly I hope. Head was a mess at times, from climbing above the smallest brass RP, a dodgy cam and even Mel Edwards sat there watching me! It was great to chat to one of the 80s wads for a while and thank him for routes like Last tango in Paris. Chuffed to have Bella in the bag.
Jordon suggested Snakes and Ladders in the dark - the 40 something me wanted to say don't be daft but teenagers set a good lead in being adventurous, so we went for it. No planning, no idea and no tick but we laughed a lot, learnt a lot and went home safely. Brilliant!

A top day yesterday, doing the very thing I started climbing for - to be able to move quickly on rocky terrain. Good training for this summer's trip to Swizzy. I need to get back on a cardio tip for sure. The slabs were mad busy but Cneiffon even busier.

Font 7C is nails hard. Yup.
Post edited at 17:43
mbh - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mrchewy:

Nice report!
mbh - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt, but I am more Heath Robinson contraption than machine, I fear!

Not so many miles this week, but something every day:

M - 3 miles
T - 10.1 miles, there and back around St Agnes Head along the coast path. Tough going.
W - 10 miles, flattish.
T - 12.3 miles, bit of coast line around Cligga Head (much maligned as a climbing venue, but the coast from there to Perranporth is as nice a stretch as any) plus got lost inland, met large angry dog that I reckoned could and would have gone faster than me over 100 m, and went further than I meant to.
F - 7.2 miles, flat, faster (5 miles @7:20 ish)
S - 9 miles cycle Trevone to Watergate Bay, 14.3 miles walk back along coast path. This stretch would be very runnable.
S - 7.2 miles in the rain.

So, just over 50 miles of running with 4700 ft ascent, plus a walk and a ride.

I did do one run where I went as fast as I could, and went well on the run around St Agnes Head, but too often, I have to stop mid run, then carry on. Must sort this.
Tyler - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Right, another attempt by me to kickstart a training diary. My inconsistent contributions to these threads probably reflects my bitty training this winter. Current sit rep is that I'm as heavy as I've ever been which scared me into running which after going out scared me even more as I found it so hard. Depressingly, despite being more active and a bit more circumspect over the last three weeks the weight has remained the same.

M: Went to friends wall and after warm up I set a problem to mimic the crux of a route I have a vague idea of one day trying (which I can't touch), problem is it involves pulling hard on my sore finger.
T: Routes with Ted at Stockport, he wanted to do trebles, I couldn't do singles. Rubbish
W: Poor short bouldering session at Stockport
T: Rest and drive to Dartmoor
F: Morning at Dewerstone, struggled up a couple of easy routes then Torbryan quarry. Climbed to exhaustion which was good for traininig but disappointed to drop two on sight targets
S: Morning on Dartmoor, didn't do much and then back to Torbryan. Felt knackered
S: Walk around Ansteys Cove in the rain and too much eating

STG: Up the volume in all aspects of training,I've enjoyed feeling properly battered this week
JimmyKay - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Interesting week. Great weather-wise - even got a bit of a sun tan. Keeping my skin in decent nick proved the most challenging part of the week.

M-Rest
T-Crafnant boulders. Cruella (7B) should have flashed, went 3rd go. Ratt Roof (7B+) 2nd time I latched the first move. Special K (7C) 2nd go - again should have flashed. Thin skin!
W-Repeated some classics in Parisella's. Most of the beaver/cleaver lines. 300 Core movements, 2x 2:30min plank, 80 press ups.
T- 750 Core movements, 4 x 2:30 plank, 160 press ups.
F-Grit bouldering @ Burbage. Warmed up on a 6C then ticked The Terrace (7C) pretty rapidly. Then Boyager (7B) 2nd go. Went over to try Famous Grouse (7C) but didn't manage it. Finished by sending two classic 7A's (Breakfast and Mermaid). Hole in one tip and very thin skin. 450 core movements, 1 x 2:30 2 x 2:00 planks, 120 press ups.
S- 450 core movements, 1 x 2:30 2 x 2:00 planks, 120 press ups.
S- Raven Tor. Very thin skin. Should have given it another day before getting back out. Anyway managed to not quite send Ben's Roof as I started 2 moves in. Will go pretty quick next time with fresh skin and psyche.

Roll on next week.
stevemarkperry - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to biscuit:

Cool well it certainly sounds like a good deal! Better get those wheels a spinnin' ;)
stevemarkperry - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to grubes:

Definitely interested in the blog, post it up here when it's written. And enjoy the ride!
stevemarkperry - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:


Missed a few weeks due to being busy with work and being grumpy about more computer-time to fill this in but plenty of climbing and mountain biking done so they have been good weeks.

A good week this week with dry dusty trails for the bike and not bad conditions today for bouldering. A little greasy but made good progress on Flowers.


This Week:

Weight: 140 lbs (guess as the batts have ran out in le scales of justice)

M:
T:
W: 20km Mountain bike including some intervals (sickness inducing, almost!). Weights: upper body.
T: 12km Mountain bike ride. Weights: Upper body.
F: 22km Mountain bike ride at Cannock Chase (personal best loop time, on my new bike too!)
S: Rest
S: Bouldering, Roaches. Plenty of slab work (work the weakness) and made good progress on Flowers. Used the knee bar to good effect but then struggling releasing and moving up to the corner finger jug without coming off.


STG:
Drunk Enough Font 6C+ (Roaches) (TICK!)
-> Sleeping With The Flowers 6C+/7A (Roaches)
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Lead Severe (Route TBD)
Hit the trails on the MTB when possible


MTG (by Dec 2014):
Font 7B
500 pitches this year, lead or second (lead/second/total): (2/4/6)
mrchewy - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mbh:

Cheers - enjoyed this week I think because I viewed it as training, so there was no pressure to perform. Looks like you've had a great time in Cornwall, I've spent a fair few trips surfing around there.
AJM - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to Joughton:

Did you look at or scrounge any knowledge on any of the other 8as on that wall at Orpierre Jake?

I was thinking of spending some time there in a month or so, and the wide mix of grades means it might be a suitable place to try another 8a without it being a massively antisocial exercise.....
Ali - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Hey, thanks for doing fit club and was great to meet you Fri - we did that 6b you guys were trying at the end of the day and it felt well hard!

M - nothing
T - Biscuit Factory - tried some of the new reds - good fun
W - ran to work, felt ok
T - nothing
F - climbing at Tirpentwys (sp?) - really lovely crag with my kind of bolting :o) Warmed up on some of the 6as and a 6b then onsighted(ish) the 7a, got the 6c+ second go (a good work out!) and just about battled through the hard 6b to finish. Good day out
S - Orienteering Day 1 - the map was basically yellow with a squillion pits - I may have to try and put a picture up on my blog or something just to show you how horrible it looked. Anyway, managed to get round without getting totally, utterly, incomprehensibly lost so was fairly pleased with that. 8th overall, 8km course (as crow flies)
S - Orienteering Day 2 - similar area to yesterday, but the mist was down (DOOM!). Went on compass bearings all the way, managed to get round ok but did make a couple of mistakes (one bad) and was very slow going through the heather - found it tough. 14th overall, 8km course (as crow flies)
11th overall out of quite a small field of 23 (though a lot more people did the first day only) - just scraped into the top half.
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grubes - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mrchewy:

Well done on the E1 kelvin and snakes and ladders at night.

Definitely get on looning the tube. Good E1 nice climbing well enough protected
grubes - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to stevemarkperry:

Not the most interesting of reads but it's here http://grubesblog.blogspot.com
mrchewy - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to grubes:

I'll read that blog soon as I get in - beer o'clock now! I had wanted to onsight Looning but Jordon saw it and his eye's lit up... swings and roundabouts eh? Didn't finish Snakes and Ladders tho, so need to do a bit of research etc before the next attempt. That place is mad at night.

Advice for your ride - write with a marker on your wrist RFM. Relentless Forward Motion. Look at it every time you feel jaded. Small things like that help hugely.
grubes - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mrchewy:

I have a wrist band that is in yaa colours that says p4p5(pedal for pounds5) to remind me why I am doing it. Having had a mate are lifted off stanage by yaa I know how important there work is.
I have also had a yaa copter land a few feet away from me at almscliff. Its such a vital service especially for us climbers.
Ally Smith on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Fisheye didn't happen. Team psyche for Oliana dropped massively after a busy and very greasy afternoon/evening session. Neither me or John were getting sufficient time on the route to make progress.

Combine that with the initial traverse section aggravating my injured shoulder and we were quickly drawn in my the permanently shady and quiet Figol l'ombra.

3 sessions later and I've gotten my first holiday 8b. It's not an easy 8b either, so a minor step up from previous all time best and my best foreign tick by a grade. All good stuff.

Annoyingly the evening we went back to Oliana To fetch our draws it was the best conditions all week and John got a massive link which he said felt easy site to conditions allowing you to be passive on all the headwall pockets.

We're planning a return match in November! Venga cabron!
stevemarkperry - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to grubes:

That's good! Looking forward to the updates :)
mattrm - on 20 Apr 2014
In reply to Ali:
Nice to hear that you thought it was quite hard. I was sorta demoralised by how hard it felt. The 6a, that I nearly onsighted at the end of the day, was actually a 6a+ so don't feel so bad about failing on that was well. That spelling is right.

If you can remember, what did you do from the ledge at about half height? I was trying to jam that and the top jamming section as well. Also how did you get on to the ledge? I don't really have a good sequence for that, so some beta if you've got it would be handy.

I suspect that once I've got my hand on the ledge, it is just a case of using the crap hold to the left of the ledge. But at the same time it could be lay backed. Then again layback off the ledge and jam the main finger crack.

Hope you do well in the final day of orienteering.
Post edited at 23:05
mattrm - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 12st (1lbs loss)

M - Core
T - Core and Fingerboard
W - Indoor bouldering
T - Rest
F - Sport at Tirpentwys
S - 200 dish tucks, 43 sec bring sally up
S - Rest

Weight is back down. Nice indoor session at spot. Had hoped to get outdoors, but the tides were wrong for Ogmore and I had to cook tea so couldn't get out on the club meet. Friday was a frustrating session. Lots of failing. Oh well. Hopefully the 6b will feel a bit less hard next time. But it was nice to meet Ali and Sam.

Hopefully I'll be 11st something next week.

Just Tintin - Sorry I missed you. Hope you had a good week with your Mum and Grandma.
Joughton on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to AJM: No I'm afraid not, but I don't think there are many others on that wall... Game Over is certainly the classic.

I'd really recommend it, I would have loved to spend more time on it as the climbing was great. Can't really offer any comparison as to how it feels for the grade as I've not been on many other 8as but to be able to flash between each bolt probably means it's not mega hard. I guess it depends whether your more fit or strong at the time, but I'd be guessing after 3 months in Europe you'd be wanting an endurance test piece?

Orpierre is the perfect crag though for a team climbing at different grades!
Luke Owens - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:
> Luke Owens - Firestarter is a f7A right? Congrats. Good luck on the 7c.

Cheers Matt! Yeah, Firestarter is a Font 7A.

Monday: Lunch session:
12 Wide Grip Pull Ups

Deadhangs:
30mm Edge, Half Crimp - 3 x 10 secs
Single Joint Edge, Half Crimp - 5 x 10 secs

3 x 10 Dumbell Upright Rows (15kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises

Tuesday: Couple of hours at Pantymwyn Fell off the last move on the 7A+ left finish to Firestarter 3 times. Worked out some better beta for this move then kept powering out before it and couldn't make it to the same highpoint.

Good training session, felt very strong on individual moves PE was lacking though. I seem to only have a few good attempts in me per session on these cave type problems.

Wednesday: Warm evening at Dinbren.

2 x 6b Warm up

Did Big Mouth Strikes Again (7a) first go after putting the clips in.

Had a brief go on the 7c project but skin was too thin.

Dogged up "In Search of Someone Silly" (7a+/b). Got all the moves quick so had a quick redpoint as it was getting late. Surprised myself falling off on the last move of the route. Will go easily next time.

Thursday: Rest

Friday: Crafnant bouldering.

Option C (6C) - Once I could pull off the floor it went 2nd go.
Wonderwall Arete (6C) - Took quite a few goes.
Snap, Crackle and Pop (6C) - 3rd or 4th go.
Riley's Arete sds (7A) - Took an hour felt hard as the slopers were so greasy in the direct sun. One of the most perfect problems on perfect slopers.

Great day, so happy to climb well on my anti-style (slopers), don't think I crimped all day!

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Evening Deadhangs:

5 x 10 secs - 30mm edge (Half crimp)
5 x 5 secs - 35 Degree Slopers
5 x 5 secs - LH 20mm edge, RH 30mm edge (Half crimp)
5 x 5 secs - RH 20mm edge, LH 30mm edge (Half crimp)
mrchewy - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Effort - progress is always good to hear.
IainRUK - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to mrchewy:

Not a great week.. race was a no go as car broke down.. and has done an easier week in the run up.


m: 9 miles started off sub 7 felt terruible so slowed to 8-9 min miles
t: am: 7 miles 7:40 pace. pm: 8 miles with 4 sets of 400 hard, 200 slow 1km hard 400 slow.
w: am: 10 miles 7:50 pace. pm: running sop run 7 miles 7;20 pace
t: am: 7 miles 7:50 pace pm: 7 miles 7:40 pace
f: am: 4.1 miles slow. drove to race in VA.. broke down in DC towed to garage. pm: 5.8 miles from hotel
s: am: 5.8 miles slow in rockville fetched car drove 3 hours back. pm: 8 miles road n trail NJ
s: 13.3 miles 6:30 pace nice trail/road run

90+ for the week but not much quality.. not a great week and need to race twice next weekend to try and kick some fitness in for a few key races coming up..
grubes - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to stevemarkperry:

Thanks
will be doing updates on Facebook and twitter
My twitter is https://www.twitter.com/grubeshtafc

I will also be adding my rides to strava to prove I did it and not just got a lift on the back of a truck :o)

Also if anyone lives on route I will have a fetching yellow helmet cover on
grubes - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:
Well done on the 8b may not be the 8c you wanted but a fast ascent of a hard 8b is still a good tick.
You will get it later in the year
There is always unjustified ...
Post edited at 07:05
grubes - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to JimmyKay:

Nice week that enjoying the school holidays I see
ashley1_scott - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

First time of posting on this, as I have decided that this year I want to start pushing my grades.
In the last 8 days have climbed 4 times, 2x Craggy Island Guildford, 1x White Spider and once at Boulder Brighton.
Sunday (13th) Climbed at White Spider for 6 hours, completed 4 circuits (VB-V0,V0-V1,V1-V2,V2-V3 I think they were the grades) also flashed the 21 move 6A roof section and 19 move 6B roof section.
Monday (14th) Worked.
Tuesday (15th) Worked. Climbed at Craggy Island (2 hours), did routes to try and get some endurance
Wednesday (16th) Worked.
Thursday (17th) Climbed at Craggy for 5 hours, did some lead climbing on the comp wall (2x 5c,1x 6a), spent the rest of the time just running laps on either easy leads or TR's.
Friday (18th) Rest day as it was B/H so no work, went for a 12 mile walk.
Saturday (19th) Worked.
Sunday (20th) Climbed at Boulder Brighton for 5 hours, ticked some 5C's and some 6A's, also got the 6A+ roof (13 moves, with the last one being a big shoulder press move). Started to work some of the moves on a couple of 6B's, a 6C and two 7A's
That's all for this update as I will not be climbing until Thursday when a friend and I head up to the Peaks to boulder.
I will try and remember to update on Sunday nights from now on.
Si dH - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

> Nice to hear that you thought it was quite hard. I was sorta demoralised by how hard it felt. The 6a, that I nearly onsighted at the end of the day, was actually a 6a+ so don't feel so bad about failing on that was well. That spelling is right.

> If you can remember, what did you do from the ledge at about half height? I was trying to jam that and the top jamming section as well. Also how did you get on to the ledge? I don't really have a good sequence for that, so some beta if you've got it would be handy.

> I suspect that once I've got my hand on the ledge, it is just a case of using the crap hold to the left of the ledge. But at the same time it could be lay backed. Then again layback off the ledge and jam the main finger crack.

> Hope you do well in the final day of orienteering.

Haha well i see Ali hasn't replied yet but I reckon the safe money is she didn't jam any of it!! ;)
Luke Owens - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to JimmyKay:

> T-Crafnant boulders. Cruella (7B) should have flashed, went 3rd go. Ratt Roof (7B+) 2nd time I latched the first move. Special K (7C) 2nd go - again should have flashed. Thin skin!

Strong week there, effort at Crafnant. Amazing place isn't it? I was there on Friday.

Special K is one of the most perfect lines i've ever seen, 3 great ticks!
Luke Owens - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Effort on the 8b big man. Glad you went for plan B, no use wasting time on crap conditions. Plenty of time to train for the rematch in November too! Venga!
JimmyKay - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to Luke Owens:

Can't believe I've never been. Utterly idillic location and lines straight of Switzerland. No polish. Special K has been on my ticklish ever since it was put up. You have to do lines named after you eh?! A little bit like doing a boulder called Luke's roof. Wasn't expecting quite the quality though. Mega.
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Luke Owens - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to JimmyKay:

Yeah, the location couldn't be any better. I've never climbed on rock so good other than maybe Porth Ysgo!

Strong effort doing Special K 2nd go. It's a bit out of my grade range at the moment but i'm seriously inspired by it. One at the top of the list to train for!
Tubb93 - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks mattrm.

STG (by end of May)

Boulder V6 inside
Consolidate V5 outside: left hand traverse pillar start at parisellas and the edge problem stand start.
Get lots done on two week trip to kalymnos
Onsight 6c

MTG (end of '14)
Climb more trad
Boulder V6 in font (June) and V7 by end of year
Onsight 7a redpoint 7b

LTG
Lead 8a
Boulder V9

This week:
M- Busy day. Went to kasteli and dolphin bay. Climbed several 6a and 6a+s
T- rest day on the beach
W- went to arhi, climbed a stiff 6a+ slab then tried kastor (7a) a few times but couldn't get it clean.
T- in the morning went to afternoon and spartan wall for some easy slabs with the group, then went to poets, and got my first 6b onsight :). As well as a couple of 6a+s
F- rained a lot
S- just couldn't be assed
S- went to the grande grotta and got a 6a+ but nothing else of note.

Overall it's been a great week. Very happy with my 6b but I am not sure if my goal of 6c is attainable but if I get a 6b+ I will be content, seeing as before the trip I wasn't really sure what I was capable of climbing. Due to limited outdoor sport climb experience.
Luke Owens - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to Tubb93:

> Consolidate V5 outside: left hand traverse pillar start at parisellas and the edge problem stand start.

Pac Man Arete (6C/V5) is a great problem at the grade your looking for and close to the cromlech!
AJM - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to Joughton:

Cheers Jake. Might give it a look. Sounds like a lot of the challenge is going to be in milking the rests enough to crush out the boulder sections. How steep are we talking - just off vert or are we into more leaning sort of territory?
Tubb93 - on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to Luke Owens:

Cheers mate. Will definitely check it out!
Joughton on 21 Apr 2014
In reply to AJM: Yeah I think that would be the key, plus just getting the sequences really dialed to save energy.

I ended up about five metres from the base of the route, and it's a 25 metre, so that should give you some idea, not mega steep anyway.
Nomics4sale - on 22 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Hi Matt, thanks for the thread.

STG: 7b+ at Kilnsey, 7a or 7b in France
MTG: More projects at Kilnsey. Do some trad.
LTG: Whatever.

Mon: 13.8km trail run Pendle Hill. 424m ascent. 6.45/km.
Tues: Hill reps Whally Nab
Weds: nowt
Thurs: Malham. RPed Rose Coronary. Yay!
Fri: Kilnsey, started work on Truth Drug.
Sat: Anniversary Waltz fell race. 19km, 1,148m ascent. 8.06/km.
Sun: Dib Scar. Baltic. Not much climbing done.

Really chuffed with my first sucessful lead at Malham. Easy route but for me it's a bit of a milestone to finally do something there.

I've transferred my Kilnsey 7b+ affections to Truth Drug rather than Frankie Comes to Kiilnsey. First session on it this week and I really like the climbing. I had another session on it yesterday which went well. Syke boost yesetrday too as I belayed The Fox on Comedy and watched him cruise up it first go of the day. Awesome!

And the fell race was brilliant!

Humperdink - on 22 Apr 2014
In reply to IainRUK:

Don't panic - You are in good shape (as evidenced by the 10M race PB)so maybe two races next week is a bit much? Why not a race and a session?
pork pie girl - on 22 Apr 2014
In reply to biscuit:

i like the colour.. understated... and colour is everything :o)
pork pie girl - on 22 Apr 2014
In reply to Nomics4sale:

i watched you on rose at malham... you made it look like a 6a... maybe the issue of struggling to remember sequences is becoming less of an issue? awesome :o)

PS rose IS NOT and easy route.. nothing is easy at Malham.. not for me anyway
Humperdink - on 22 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Humperdink - 75 miles? Can't process that to be honest. Well done. 15:32 for 5k? Mental... I'd be super happy with 24 mins tbh...

Thanks Matt, and thanks for doing Fit club again this week. Slightly lower mileage this week as started taper for race tomorrow.

M – am: 5M easy in 36:03, lunchtime: 7/8M in 44:17
Tu – pm: Track session 1200, 1000, 800 (off 400 jog ~3min) then 6 x 200 (off 200 jog ~75secs). Not too windy this evening but pace judgement was not the best. Pleased by the times though which were: 3:22 (1200), 2:49 (1000), 2:13 (800) all of the 200’s were controlled not flat out so pleased again they were all 30’s. ~8M total
W - Lunchtime: 8/9M in 53:40
Th - am: 5M easy in 32:08, pm: 7M Steady/Hard in 43:48 (6:15 miling)
F – am: 4/5M easy in 32:16 + hopping exercises and stretching
Sa – am: Grass Track Session 6 x 1K off 90 seconds. Pretty windy this morning and early in the morning times were: 3:01, 3:02, 3:03, 3:02, 3:02, 2:59. This is PB pace so encouraging.
Su - am: 66mins easy ~9M. Shorter long run this week

68M Total. Pretty happy again with this week, both sessions are encouraging and lap times look like they are quicker this year than corresponding point from last year so fingers crossed now for calm conditions at the track on Wednesday evening and we'll see what happens!
Post edited at 10:40
pork pie girl - on 22 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

last week...

2x routes on rock.. turkey and malham... malham session defo brought back the passion... felt quite good on baboo baboo

6 x cardio sessions (bike in gym , or stair climber.. two
MTB rides out in the hills near me)

2x weight tra8ning sessions

4 xcore

3x stretching... ouch... have really let the stretching go and now i'm paying for it... need hip and glute flexibility to improve to move better at the being of baboo baboo as it's got high step ups for me and I'm not moving smoothly enough because of hips.

got another sesison of baboo baboo on sunday.. longer links.. got to get on lead this week.. new beta on start , which makes it slightly better.. sticking to orginal game plan for crux... it's tough but it works for me

PPG
biscuit - on 22 Apr 2014
In reply to pork pie girl:

> i like the colour.. understated... and colour is everything :o)

Stealth Black !

It's massively different from being on a borrowed bike that's 2 sizes too big for me. I went out for a couple of hours yesterday and felt like i was flying.
Sankey - on 22 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm: Back from Penn State, did my best time on my running loop before coming home, shaved at least 30 seconds per mile while I was out there. Hoping to get back on the climbing this week, weather permitting.

Wk1: Weds- Run 5 miles ~9 mpm; Sat 3.8 miles @ 9:13
Wk2: Mon- 3.8 miles @9.13 Thurs - 8.28


STG: Not go stir crazy while on a 2 month visit to Penn State University 100 % completed! :) Start climbing again.

More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (6) 6c+ (4) 7a (6) 7a+(2)

MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working

LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
Just Tintin - on 22 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt! End of mother and grandma holiday but start of run of 7 days on rock. Another brilliant night at Kielder Observatory (highly recommended to anyone) and some freakish Northern weather…
Highlight: Banana Fingers onsight at Burbage North on Sunday. What a great problem.

M – 4 mile walk with grandma (83) and mum (blind). Good ML practice getting them off-road.
T – Trad at Kyloe Crag. Nice sunny afternoon pootling around on HS and VS.
W – Evening sneaky boulder Oxen Wood. Guide hadn’t arrived so just made up routes all from sitters.
T – Evening sneaky boulder Oxen Wood. Invented a campus crimp problem from under a roof which I’m pretty pleased with.
F – Boulder Gardoms. Are the grades here stiff? Had an enjoyable epic battle with a couple of V1s but there were V0s I couldn’t start!
S – Trad Froggatt – warming up for the trad season with some soft HVSs including Sunset Slab and Tody’s Wall. Lovely day out.
S – Bouldering Easter Egg hunting at Burbage North and South.
pork pie girl - on 22 Apr 2014
In reply to biscuit: perfect day for PPG: session at Malham followed by hill climbing on bike from malham over to langcliffe.. settle..back to malham.. not too long but a good training session for hills.

start bringing ye bike to malham :o)

Nomics4sale - on 22 Apr 2014
In reply to Joughton:

Well done getting the 7c. That's awesome!
Nomics4sale - on 22 Apr 2014
In reply to grubes:
YAA airflifted me off Malham cove in 2008. Turned out to be slightly pointless for me but anyway I appreciated the effort. And of course good luck on the day :-).
Post edited at 15:42
Ali - on 22 Apr 2014
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Well done for facing the demons :o) Now you have so many beautifully crimpy routes to get on ;o)

We're going to be up there weekend after next if you or any other Fit Clubbers are about.... though I'm bagsying Tremalo!
Ali - on 22 Apr 2014
In reply to Si dH:

> Haha well i see Ali hasn't replied yet but I reckon the safe money is she didn't jam any of it!! ;)

Now, now, I do jam very occasionally Mr dH, when I *absolutely* have to, and when the jamming is the stick-your-fingers-in-crack kind of jamming. Which this was.

Which ledge do you mean? after the easy first bit, I stuck my hand in the crack to get over the first bulgy bit, then found it ok to get stood up on a ledge - just below the bit you'd ticked. That was the crux move for me, as it was pretty barn-doory. I reckon its a finger jam/layback for your left hand, get you right foot up and onto the foothold in the crack and flag your left against the wall. I got left foot in first and had a bit of a battle to swop feet and get in balance. Then reached up for something rubbish with my right which used to move up to the good holds at the top.

Does that help at all? Probably not...sorry!
mattrm - on 22 Apr 2014
In reply to Ali:

Yup, that's the ledge I'm talking about.

Roughly, I used the ledges at the start to get to the good holds at the first overhang. Clip the 3rd bolt. Go out wide to the jug, use the crack and reach for the ledge. Re-arrange feet. Left hand to the bottom of the crack and then normally fail to get onto the ledge. It just wasn't a great hold and I was wondering if there was a better way to use it. Oh well.

When I got to the ledge, it was fairly straight forward from then on hard, but obvious.
Ally Smith on 23 Apr 2014
In reply to Ali:

> We're going to be up there weekend after next...

Does the the "we" mean other Southerners like Nick and Hazel?

I could certainly be tempted to re-open my Unjustified account sometime soon.
Nick Russell on 23 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:
> Nick Russell - Sorry? You soloed Riders on the Storm? Can you fit your balls into your trousers? Excellent bag of routes at Pembroke. If you don't like the 7b, no point pushing it just to get the tick. Got to like the route.

Yeah, did some great routes in Pembroke! I guess with the high tide you could call Riders on the Storm a DWS. That's pretty much the conclusion I came to with the sport route too, time to move on really.

M - Swimming (4.4km)
T - Evening climbing at Wintour's Leap. Zelda (HS) and Guytha (HVS).
W - Short core + antagonist set.
T - Rest (driving to the Lake district)
F - Day 1 of long walk in the Lakes. Wild camp at Scoat Tarn.
S - Day 2 of long walk, back to Wasdale Head.
S - Climbing on the Napes. Tophet Wall - classic HS, really good!

Went to the Lake District for (extended) Easter weekend and had a great time! The weather held out, and we only had a few spots of rain on Sunday (and a bit more persistent on the way back on Tuesday). If anything, the rain and high winds just added to the mountain crag experience on Tophet Wall. I would really recommend that route to anybody in the area looking for an easy classic.

In summary, not much training but it's great to get out in the mountains :)

I've booked a physio appointment next week to look at my shoulders. Nothing acute, not really any pain either, but they're really 'clunky' and it's getting worrying/annoying. Hopefully it will be easy to sort out and I've caught it before doing any real damage.

Short term goals (April)
Make some progress* on a 7c. Might not even get on one looking at my schedule and the weather forecast for the next week...
Climb some classic Lake district mountain routes at Easter. Tick. The weather was kind to us, so got a couple in.

Medium term goals (end of June)
7c sport
Make some progress* on a 7c+.
Recce most of the 'Staffordshire nose'. 8/31 routes climbed.
At least 2 more E4 attempts.

Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+, season's best: 7a+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 1, clean onsight: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 127/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr, 26.98 50fr
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.

*See week 368
Ally Smith on 23 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Double week summary after a brief update during the week – re-considered some of my goals:

LTG (Sept 2014):
- Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Montenegro?)
- Complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race (not intending to be competitive, but still need to start running up hills again!)

MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
- Buy a house and build some home training faciliites
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham (had a weird allergic reaction last time I went on the extension)
- Bolt the Dinbren project (Luke Owens - thanks for the drill loan!)
- On-sight some E5s in prep for...
- Brandler-Hasse Cime Grande
- Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
- Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF; leaner post Spanish trip despite sub-optimal diet - 75.4kg and 6.7% BF this morning

STG (The coming week)
- Rest up, regain full pain-free movement in shoulder
- Investigate possible projects


The last 2 weeks:
M - Physio session – super sore shoulder
T - Rest
W - More rest
T - Dinbren with Luke. Flailed about on a few things; fell off 7a OS for the first time in a long while!
F - Rest
S - Early flight then back to business at Oliana. 7a+ warm-up, then straight on Fisheye and equal high-point. Dogged rest of it; initial traverse and final “slab” tweaking shoulder.
S - Andorro shop then Oliana. 7c/+ flash. Then greasy go on Fisheye. Struggled.

M - Rest day
T - Tres Ponts. Couldn’t do 7a warm-up :-( 6b+, 7a+/b, 7b+/c. Back to Oliana, struggled again on Fisheye. Decision to sack it off was made pretty much then.
W - Figols. Nasty 6c/+ warm-up. Dogged Aspid twice. Confusing headwall sussed out by JM’s “gold plated beta”.
T - Rest – lots of Andorro duty-free purchases.
F - Back to Figols. Dog then RPs on Aspid. Dropped crux twice. Big link (8a?) from just post crux to top.
S - Tactical day on/day off rest. Walked to Perles – Sin Perdon looks boss. Belayed at Oliana on best conditions of whole trip. Kicked myself slightly when Russian jailbait got three good redpoints in cool connies. Could of, would of, should of…
S - Figols – smashed Aspid after dropping crux on first go. Celebratory crag beer might have been reason for falling off neighbouring 8a/+ (A por Espid). Cava from AJM went down well – pilfered his chalk supply too!
M - battered, but back at Figols to belay Matt. Another RP go failed at same headwall move of A por Espid. Half century of >f8a will have to wait...
Jamming Dodger on 23 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:
Starting yoga classes this eve. Ive noticed since I turned 30 that my flexibility and general fitness takes a lot to keep on top of. Which in turn affects my motivation and the slippery slope into slobbery begins.
Any anecdotal evidence from people who've practised yoga for a while? Its Astanga yoga (may give the Hatha yoga a go as well).
How long until I can put both legs behind my ears?
Otherwise, still enjoying the bike and looking forward to a summer of nice rides out with Mr B and the club.
Dandan82 - on 23 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt,
I missed last week due to being in Font, which didn't entirely go to plan...
So the finger was giving me trouble when it came to holiday time, but I thought I could just climb around it, not get on anything with powerful right hand crimps, I mean, I heard there are a couple of sloper problems in Font, right...?
Then somehow, I think it must have been from working on my car, I managed to do something to my left elbow which meant when I got to Font it felt like I had already been smashing out 7C's for three days solid and my elbow was in agony!
Cue 4 days of mincing about on yellow curcuits trying to recuperate the shoulder so I could get some decent goes on my trip target, Le Carnage.
Well it was all for nothing as the first left arm pull to get onto the problem ruined my elbows in about 4 goes. Admittedly my dodgy finger probably couldn't have dealt with the next hold which is a tough little crimp anyway, so it was a massive failure all round.

I'm home now, with an inexplicable dodgy elbow (which is improving), still a bad finger (which isn't really improving) and now some random forearm pains from doing a bit of digging and concrete shovelling!
I'm in a pretty low place as far as climbing goes, although it does feel a bit like 'first world problems' because my life in general is as good as ever, but it's demoralising nonetheless. I'm not sure if i should continue training, rest up, alter my exercises, stick to the same ones, no idea.
My physio is on holiday until the end of the week so maybe I will just chill out until then, get some decent advice before i run off half-cocked.

sorry for the miserly post, hopefully better news to come soon :)

Ali - on 23 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm: Hmmm.... I may have got a high foot onto the ledge, then used something poor for my right as an intermediate to help stand up? Sorry :-S

Ally - yes N&H are coming up too - camping at the usual place :o) Would be cool if you can make it over for the weekend.

Ali - on 23 Apr 2014
In reply to Dandan82:

You're allowed to be miserly for a bit with that bad luck! Just cheer up for next week ;oP

Given that you have about 3 injuries on the go, my non-expert opinion would be REST and ice until at least one of them gets better!
Joughton on 23 Apr 2014
In reply to Nomics4sale: Thanks Nomics, well done on opening up your Malham account! Lots to look forward to...
Dandan82 - on 24 Apr 2014
In reply to Ali:

Thanks Ali, i'm resting for the remainder of this week (which for me means only rehab exercises, stretches and core work, I should probably do some cardio too...) and trying to just leave all my dodgy muscles alone, I swear that me fiddling with sore muscles in an attempt to massage/mobilise/check progress on them just makes them worse, I definitely don't have healing hands!

There's talk of Portland Saturday but the weather is not looking promising which is probably a blessing for me, saves me from temptation!
I'll do a super easy indoor session next week and hopefully my physio will be back from holiday with some fresh advice.
Got to keep positive!
Ally Smith on 24 Apr 2014
In reply to Ali:

Great - I'll try and come visit one or both days.

Anyone want to do a Sunday session at Malham this weekend?
Luke Owens - on 30 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm: Cheers Matt!

Monday: 12 Wide Grip Pull Ups

4 x 10 Offset Pull-Ups
2 x 10 Lower Offset Pull-Ups

3 x 10 Dumbell Upright Rows (15kg)
3 x 10 Good Mornings (30kg)

Evening: 30 mins Aerocap

Tuesday: Pantymwyn - Did the 7A+ Firestarter into Sparks link in mega greasy conditions. Video: http://www.vimeo.com/92890963

Wednesday: 12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups
10 Dips

Deadhangs (Half crimp)
3 x 10secs - 30mm edge
5 x 10secs - First joint edge

3 x 1min Plank
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises

Thursday: Pantymwyn - Started working on "Panty's Down" (7A+). Can do the crux move, just need to work the rest.

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Rest - Had planned to hit the slate that's why I had rested. Couldn't get out due to family commitments and couldn't get psyched to train at home.

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