UKC

Doubling up Wallnuts

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iamaclimber 20 Apr 2014
What sizes of Wallnuts would you suggest it is worth doubling up on for mountain routes at VS to E2 when paired with a set of Offsets (7-11)?
 jezb1 20 Apr 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:

I carry 1-6 doubled and 7-11 singles normally.

I mostly climb vs - e1 and never really think I wish I had more larger nuts.
 neuromancer 20 Apr 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:
I double up all of the smaller sizes that aren't matched by an offset; i.e. 1, 2, 3.

I have found that I have used both doubles on routes in north wales, but I have never come across a situation where I wanted three of a rough size (which you would have if you doubled up nuts 4 onwards - e.g. 4, 4, offset 7 all are the same rough size).

However I do carry HB's and RP's (mainly for the slate).
Post edited at 15:14
In reply to iamaclimber:

Small to mid sized nuts I find I use most so I have duplicates of some of these. I use my Offsets every time I climb, mainly the medium sizes. I don't use my size 11 nut or my 10 very often - cams tend to fit those placements better. I've recently been using my hexes more.

Disclaimer: this only applies to north wales where I currently do 100% of climbing.
 FreshSlate 20 Apr 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:

All good advice.
 Monk 20 Apr 2014
In reply to iamaclimber:

Like others, I always double up on 1 to 6, and often carry triples in these sizes too. I do like to string pitches together and frequently get times when I use all 3 of particular sizes, particularly 3,4 and 5. This is in lakes, Wales and on multipitch limestone.

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