/ The Moon - Gogarth

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HappyTrundler - on 24 Apr 2014
I am thinking of getting on this next weekend...I'm not as fit and confident as I used to be, getting old I suppose...just looking for a bit of reassurance, the guidebook gives it E3 5c, however says low in the grade, and I've seen lots of comments to this effect...so, what's it like, the 5c bits, the gear, any special gear requirements, extra slings, big stuff etc? All beta gratefully received, cheers....
mike lawrence? - on 24 Apr 2014
In reply to HappyTrundler:

I didn't really notice a 5c move but then I did the lower part of the main pitch quite quickly, rather than fluffing around, which must have helped as I was completely exhausted later on. You can have a good rest though and then descending to the stance you are well protected. I thought the top pitch was absolutely fine so if you do the main pitch you can relax and enjoy the top. Used completely standard gear, no big cams etc.

definitely do it but post as to how you got on. Creeping Lemma is great too so if you enjoy the moon try that one.

mike
Derek Furze - on 24 Apr 2014
In reply to HappyTrundler:

Isn't Yellow Wall affected by the bird ban? I thought Castell Helen was the only accessible bit of South Stack until later in the year? I'm sure someone more up to date can confirm the position....
nawface - on 24 Apr 2014
In reply to HappyTrundler:

not affected by the ban.

It's great, get on it. Take extendable qd's.
Bulls Crack - on 24 Apr 2014
In reply to HappyTrundler:

It's Ok for E3 and 5c but a BIG route in BIG place. one of my all time favourites
Andrew Wilson - on 24 Apr 2014
In reply to HappyTrundler:

Brilliant route. Only noticeable hard move for me was on first pitch, a finger slot where I also had a cam placed. I seem to remember doing a finger lock with left hand to move up. Anyway, this is way too specific and I'm sure you will find your own way.
This was the first time I encountered the toothpaste coating on the rock which I had heard so much about. You don't want an overcast morning, as I think this may be what caused the toothpaste. Perhaps warm up elsewhere and enjoy the route after lunch.

As others have said, long extenders are usefu but that goes for all of Gogarth really.

Have fun. I love Gogarth!

Andy.
Jon Stewart - on 24 Apr 2014
In reply to HappyTrundler:

I've done the route twice, the first time it was my first E3 on a big cliff and I was expecting it to be hard. It wasn't, it was easy - conditions were good, it was plastered in chalk, and it felt about E1.

The second time was with Andy above and conditions were shit - there was clag being blown up from the sea up the face of Main Cliff so we went round to South Stack where that wasn't happening but it was toothpastey. It felt hard and scary in those conditions.

It's a great route, I don't think it's 5c, there are no big run-outs, it's just a superb, spectacular route. It's not pumpy or strenuous, it's more tip-toeing sneakily around the steepness than actually climbing it. Definitely go and do it, it's a soft-touch and one of the best routes around.
Martin Haworth on 24 Apr 2014
In reply to HappyTrundler:

It is low in the grade but it is E3 so dont under estimate it, it is quite sustained. There is good gear on it so it is relatively safe.
The Savage is a good warm up route at soft E2.
HappyTrundler - on 24 Apr 2014
In reply to HappyTrundler:

Thanks all, much appreciated...one last thing, it says to abb in, a rope length off a spike..is that 2 x 50 metre ropes tied together and pull down, or leave say a 60m and pull that up when you've topped out?...
Jon Stewart - on 24 Apr 2014
In reply to HappyTrundler:

Easier and safer if you've got a 60m ab rope, I only ab on climbing ropes when unavoidable.
Cusco - on 25 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

I spot a recurring theme Jon.

F5 or F6a to second and a perfect route for a wall bred newbie to go with someone more experienced no doubt!
TRip - on 25 Apr 2014
In reply to Cusco:

> I spot a recurring theme Jon.

> F5 or F6a to second and a perfect route for a wall bred newbie to go with someone more experienced no doubt!

F*ck me! That has got to be one of the worst bit of advice I have read on UKC, which is saying something...
Jon Stewart - on 25 Apr 2014
In reply to TRip:

He was taking the piss out of my views on Lower Sharpnose from another thread.
Jon Stewart - on 25 Apr 2014
In reply to Cusco:

> I spot a recurring theme Jon.

There are plenty of routes that I think are sandbags too! Most of Bosigran for a start - I wouldn't even dare get on an E3 there considering how hard the E1s and 2s are.
Cusco - on 25 Apr 2014
In reply to TRip:

Hi TRip

It was indeed gentle mirth at a previous post from John re. Lower Sharpnose, given Jon's 'felt E1 not E3' on this one. Whilst I agree the LSN grades are soft for the very wall-fit, I wouldn't quite have given the LSN routes the French grades Jon did.

There are worse internet downgraders on UKC though. Two from the South West in particular stood out several years ago with comments along the lines of 'Felt no harder than [F]6b' [NB: for a [F]7b].

The Moon sounds fantastic though. Kafoozalem's/Purple Sue's photos are great. Now where's that trusty leader to drag this punter up the route? JT, fancy a trip to Gogarth...?!

C

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=584628&v=1

Phill Mitch - on 25 Apr 2014
In reply to HappyTrundler:

I thought the main pitch was steady away. One move on the top pitch, where the angle changes from steep to not steep, is worth setting your self up for. No harder than 5c but I think if you expect a walk in the park you might come unstuck in a quite critical position. Place good runners on the steep ground after the last belay! Just thought it was worth a mention. You will be blown away with how good it is, have fun.
philhilo - on 25 Apr 2014
In reply to HappyTrundler:

As one poster said, big route on a big cliff. Lots of Gogarth seriousness but ultimately as safe as anything else at Gogarth and superb. Did the top pitch in the fog with the sound of the fog horn. Could only see 10m, very surreal.
pasbury on 25 Apr 2014
In reply to HappyTrundler:

There are E3s you can have a good look at and gauge exactly what you need to do from the ground. There are E3s that give an honest fight as you approach them ground-up and there are E3s that look like the living end and have some mystique but actually executing them is not so bad as you thought having just seen them & read the guidebook.

Guess which category the Moon falls into?
johncoxmysteriously - on 25 Apr 2014
In reply to HappyTrundler:

Some handy beta in this thread, possibly

>http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=136103&v=1#x1891195

jcm
Robert Durran - on 25 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> It's not pumpy or strenuous, it's more tip-toeing sneakily around the steepness than actually climbing it.

I've done it twice. Once when fit when it felt very ok for the grade and once when unfit and I got massively pumped on both pitches and it felt desperate.

DDDD - on 25 Apr 2014
In reply to HappyTrundler:

Don't underestimate how serious the first 4c pitch is, I almost backed off it. I remember the middle pitch having enough gear but the top, easier pitch having less good gear. It's a great outing though.
victim of mathematics - on 25 Apr 2014
In reply to DDDD:

> Don't underestimate how serious the first 4c pitch is, I almost backed off it.

Christ yes! Don't go falling off that or you'll bounce all the way down to the sea...
HappyTrundler - on 26 Apr 2014
In reply to HappyTrundler:

Once again, thanks all, I am sufficiently encouraged...I did Mousetrap about 5 years ago, having done it I got the idea that the E2 grade is to discourage ambitious HVS or inexperienced E1 leaders, as it is a not route for suchlike, due to the unusual climbing, rock and lack of decent gear...the actual climbing was very straightforward, once again, a great route...
Jon Stewart - on 26 Apr 2014
In reply to HappyTrundler:

I agree about Mousetrap, but The Moon isn't a novelty choss route of that ilk (Kalahari is though!) - it does have plenty of actual climbing.
Rory Shaw - on 26 Apr 2014
In reply to victim of mathematics:

First pitch feels much more like 5a and pretty serious.... or at least thats how I remember it. Don't just dismiss it as a simple approach pitch
victim of mathematics - on 26 Apr 2014
In reply to Rory Shaw:

> First pitch feels much more like 5a and pretty serious.... or at least thats how I remember it. Don't just dismiss it as a simple approach pitch

Yup. Doing steep 5a moves with nothing by a shonky offset wire between me and an exciting plummet towards the sea wasn't exactly what I'd hoped for when I signed up for leading the odd pitches.

Don't assume that you're missing out on the main event if you second the main pitch though - the top pitch is brilliant in its own right.
TRip - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to victim of mathematics:

> Yup. Doing steep 5a moves with nothing by a shonky offset wire between me and an exciting plummet towards the sea wasn't exactly what I'd hoped for when I signed up for leading the odd pitches.

Indeed. I broke a foot hold, inverted and broke my helmet. I was so frazzled that I rested on the middle pitch and backed off on the second. I really should go back and do it properly.

TR

Robert Durran - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> It's a great route...... there are no big run-outs.

I know someone who broke off a finishing hold and took an 80 footer......
Jon Stewart - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to Robert Durran:

It's not my fault they didn't place any gear.
Robert Durran - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> It's not my fault they didn't place any gear.

Indeed, but it is a good lesson on why it is a good idea to do so!


wynaptomos - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to Robert Durran:

It goes diagonally doesn't it from what I remember? Even if you don't need much gear yourself you should place some for the second's sake:-)

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