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Anyone interested in doing a new route?
There’s an unclimbed crack on a wee crag not far from where I live at Dunkeld.
Its only about 30ft high but a good line on a good solid bit of rock.
It will be hard though (I reckon about E5 6b/c), but well protected.
I tried it myself about 15 years ago but it was too hard, and as I get older and weaker there’s less and less chance of me being able to do it.
Anybody interested - send me an email and I’ll let you know exactly where it is.
There’s an unclimbed crack on a wee crag not far from where I live at Dunkeld.
Its only about 30ft high but a good line on a good solid bit of rock.
It will be hard though (I reckon about E5 6b/c), but well protected.
I tried it myself about 15 years ago but it was too hard, and as I get older and weaker there’s less and less chance of me being able to do it.
Anybody interested - send me an email and I’ll let you know exactly where it is.
In reply to Grahame N:
Is that at Farm crag on the top tier? If so I climbed that in 2007 and quite a few other routes with Craig "Boo Boo" Adam but we never got round to recording them.
Folk are welcome do do the first ascents again though as I can only remember the crack!
Is that at Farm crag on the top tier? If so I climbed that in 2007 and quite a few other routes with Craig "Boo Boo" Adam but we never got round to recording them.
Folk are welcome do do the first ascents again though as I can only remember the crack!
In reply to ali_robb:
No its not at Farm Crag.
The crack I'm talking about is on a smaller crag but with better, less flakey rock.
There is a new edition of Highland Outcrops being worked on just now. If you let me know the name, grade and description for your crack then I'll make sure it makes the new guide.
No its not at Farm Crag.
The crack I'm talking about is on a smaller crag but with better, less flakey rock.
There is a new edition of Highland Outcrops being worked on just now. If you let me know the name, grade and description for your crack then I'll make sure it makes the new guide.
In reply to Grahame N:
Photo here http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=238548
Its only about 10 mins from the road.
Photo here http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=238548
Its only about 10 mins from the road.
In reply to Grahame N:
Looks might be deceptive, but it looks nowhere near E5 6b/c.
Looks might be deceptive, but it looks nowhere near E5 6b/c.
Post edited at 17:04
In reply to John Stainforth:
You are quite right - it doesn't look that hard. But if I were to take a photo from the side you'd see how overhanging it is.
There's an E4 to the left that I've done and this crack is definitely harder.
Let me know if you want to have a go at it.
You are quite right - it doesn't look that hard. But if I were to take a photo from the side you'd see how overhanging it is.
There's an E4 to the left that I've done and this crack is definitely harder.
Let me know if you want to have a go at it.
In reply to Grahame N:
I wouldn't be capable of more than about E1 5c/6a at the moment. But, I was in Aberdeen yesterday, and if I had seen this photo earlier I might have made a detour to have a look.
Yes, that photo is deceptive: if anything, the crack looks less than vertical.
I wouldn't be capable of more than about E1 5c/6a at the moment. But, I was in Aberdeen yesterday, and if I had seen this photo earlier I might have made a detour to have a look.
Yes, that photo is deceptive: if anything, the crack looks less than vertical.
In reply to Grahame N:
I'm a taker. I'll be coming down for some ticking at upper cave.
I'm a taker. I'll be coming down for some ticking at upper cave.
Post edited at 10:56
In reply to rogerwebb:
The race is on...... I'm relying on Grahame having overestimated the grade though!
> Evening cragging sometime?
The race is on...... I'm relying on Grahame having overestimated the grade though!
In reply to Robert Durran:
It'll be a project as it'll be at the very stratospheric limit of my ability if said grade guesstimate prooves to be true. Happy to try and fail though.
I'd carry on even if 2nd, 3rd, 4th...ascent are snatched if the route provides me with the skills I am looking for.
To Roger, not there in the evening mind! Weekend day mission more like...but yes locally.
It'll be a project as it'll be at the very stratospheric limit of my ability if said grade guesstimate prooves to be true. Happy to try and fail though.
I'd carry on even if 2nd, 3rd, 4th...ascent are snatched if the route provides me with the skills I am looking for.
To Roger, not there in the evening mind! Weekend day mission more like...but yes locally.
In reply to John Stainforth:
In reply to John Stainforth:
Nope, it's probably a bit harder.
It's very steep, maybe 20-30° overhanging, and hard even to pull in on an abseil rope.
Although the start is easy and the wide pod has jams, it is flared and bottoms out.
The first double slot above the pod has decent fingerlocks but they are painful and directional.
The next slots are terrible, first joint on a couple of fingers, pinkies best.
The sidewalls are entirely blank apart from 4 slopey footholds, and 3 of those are on easier ground.
It will need to be protected by fiddly wires as the obvious cams would block the handholds.
It boils down to only a couple of moves but those moves will inflict a lot of misery.
If it's less than English 6c (on an onsight) I will do a Ratho session in my underpants.
GL HF
In reply to John Stainforth:
> (In reply to Grahame N) Looks might be deceptive, but it looks nowhere near E5 6b/c.
Nope, it's probably a bit harder.
It's very steep, maybe 20-30° overhanging, and hard even to pull in on an abseil rope.
Although the start is easy and the wide pod has jams, it is flared and bottoms out.
The first double slot above the pod has decent fingerlocks but they are painful and directional.
The next slots are terrible, first joint on a couple of fingers, pinkies best.
The sidewalls are entirely blank apart from 4 slopey footholds, and 3 of those are on easier ground.
It will need to be protected by fiddly wires as the obvious cams would block the handholds.
It boils down to only a couple of moves but those moves will inflict a lot of misery.
If it's less than English 6c (on an onsight) I will do a Ratho session in my underpants.
GL HF
In reply to Ean T:
Yes, did you ever visit the crag or try this crack?
Perhaps pinkie one arm pull-ups are required!
Yes, did you ever visit the crag or try this crack?
Perhaps pinkie one arm pull-ups are required!
In reply to Robert Durran:
Fancy a look one evening Robert? I am keen....
> The race is on...... I'm relying on Grahame having overestimated the grade though!
Fancy a look one evening Robert? I am keen....
In reply to Grahame N:
Birnam Hill? In which case I know folk who have tried it and yes, it is really hard. I remember your project on Pabbay that looked really easy because you couldn't see the angle (it became Ship of Fools E5/6 6b).
Rick
Birnam Hill? In which case I know folk who have tried it and yes, it is really hard. I remember your project on Pabbay that looked really easy because you couldn't see the angle (it became Ship of Fools E5/6 6b).
Rick
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Very happy to hold your ropes and have a play myself!
> Fancy a look one evening Robert? I am keen....
Very happy to hold your ropes and have a play myself!
In reply to Robert Durran:
So your man against my man then!
> Very happy to hold your ropes and have a play myself!
So your man against my man then!
In reply to rogerwebb:
I expect my man is up for for an onsight flash though, rather than a multi-visit siege!
> So your man against my man then!
I expect my man is up for for an onsight flash though, rather than a multi-visit siege!
In reply to French Erick:
Maybe but I have great faith in French élan. (no pressure )
> yep! I ain't playing in the same sphere as Adam.
Maybe but I have great faith in French élan. (no pressure )
In reply to rogerwebb:
Erick had to surrender that at Dover when he came to live here.
> Maybe but I have great faith in French élan.
Erick had to surrender that at Dover when he came to live here.
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
You just want to see Fiend in Ratho in his undies!
> Fancy a look one evening Robert? I am keen....
You just want to see Fiend in Ratho in his undies!
In reply to DaveHK:
But you're forgetting momentum, Dave. The energy produced to leave the gravitational forces of homemade brie, bread and wine is immense. Some say that when you can separate a Frenchman from his ways (driving, moaning and rioting) you create a "fission" window in time and space.
I hope to onsight that crack at the heady estimated grade of E56b/c in that very special time warp!!
But you're forgetting momentum, Dave. The energy produced to leave the gravitational forces of homemade brie, bread and wine is immense. Some say that when you can separate a Frenchman from his ways (driving, moaning and rioting) you create a "fission" window in time and space.
I hope to onsight that crack at the heady estimated grade of E56b/c in that very special time warp!!
Maybe one eve next week, ill keep an eye on the weather. Or possibly Sunday? Rob/Fiend?
In reply to French Erick:
Take consolation from that fact that you've probably already done it in an alternate reality.
> (In reply to Dave Kerr)
>
> you create a "fission" window in time and space.
>
> I hope to onsight that crack at the heady estimated grade of E56b/c in that very special time warp!!
>
> you create a "fission" window in time and space.
>
> I hope to onsight that crack at the heady estimated grade of E56b/c in that very special time warp!!
Take consolation from that fact that you've probably already done it in an alternate reality.
In reply to Fiend:
Why not just say you've been there and had a play on it and let others work it out for themselves?
> In reply to John Stainforth:
> Nope, it's probably a bit harder.
> blah
> blah
> blah
> blah
> blah
> ... my underpants.
Why not just say you've been there and had a play on it and let others work it out for themselves?
In reply to Tyler:
Pretty sure he has already
BTW it seems to seep quite a bit at the bottom so get there soon. HTH.
Pretty sure he has already
BTW it seems to seep quite a bit at the bottom so get there soon. HTH.
Post edited at 13:48
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Good luck!
Good luck!
In reply to Grahame N:
I'll swap you an unclimbed roof fist jam crack followed by a easier crack on a north facing vegetated crag for the nice wee crack on a dry sunny clean crag? And I'll throw in a Tunnocks wafer for free.
Deal?
I'll swap you an unclimbed roof fist jam crack followed by a easier crack on a north facing vegetated crag for the nice wee crack on a dry sunny clean crag? And I'll throw in a Tunnocks wafer for free.
Deal?
Had a look today, but was a tad wet so didn't get on it. We both thought probably more e6 6c, from our armchairs. The e4 looked hard enough. And very dirty!
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Its dry now.
Checked it out at lunchtime today (Friday 16th) and there is only the tiniest of trickles of water coming out of the bottom of the crack, which will have no bearing on its climbability.
So maybe this weekend?
Its dry now.
Checked it out at lunchtime today (Friday 16th) and there is only the tiniest of trickles of water coming out of the bottom of the crack, which will have no bearing on its climbability.
So maybe this weekend?
In reply to Grahame N:
Off to tbe Lakes this weekend, then got two weeks work. So might have to wait....
Off to tbe Lakes this weekend, then got two weeks work. So might have to wait....
In reply to Grahame N:
NEWSFLASH: Unclimbed crack-line in Perthshire has been climbed!
Yesterday morning (21st May) by Ali Robb. Grade E5/6 6c. Hopefully get more details later.
By the way the route is on Craig Ruenshin, Birnam Hill, just left of the slate quarry.
NEWSFLASH: Unclimbed crack-line in Perthshire has been climbed!
Yesterday morning (21st May) by Ali Robb. Grade E5/6 6c. Hopefully get more details later.
By the way the route is on Craig Ruenshin, Birnam Hill, just left of the slate quarry.
In reply to Grahame N:
He bet me to it by a matter of hours... Second ascent went down yesterday evening.
He bet me to it by a matter of hours... Second ascent went down yesterday evening.
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