UKC

Climbed crescent arete today and thought it was an awesome line. After looking about on ukc for more info I wondered if anyone could give me a list of any other highballs in the peaks, grade isn't important but anything upto about v6, just want to know of any other awesome bold lines!!

Cheers

In reply to dan_dangled:

I take it you noticed Not To Be Taken Away? Another at the Plantation is Satin, spoiled slightly by being a traverse off rather than a line in its own right - the E1 finish is quite hard I think (more like 5c than 5b and a long way up).

Left of the Plantation is the real highball territory: DIY, Torture Garden, Sithee Direct, Shock Horror Slab, Daydreamer.

Going further left still you get to Pig's Ear, then at Stanage End there's the brilliant quarried bay with Microbe, Germ, Monad, Love Handles and others.

Burbage North has some wonderful highball lines: All Quiet, Nicotine Stain and Safe Bet are favourites.

Curbar Edge is second only to Stanage, with Unreachable Star (beautiful!), Art of Japan, The Mask (desperate, never done it), Thomas the Tanked Up Engine, Finger Distance (one of the best) and loads more.

Robin Hood's Stride and Cratcliffe has a couple of goodies, including Brain Dead, Dry Wit In A Wet Country (great name, great route, wrong grade!), and the funny mantel problem that I can't do (Zaff's Mantel/Gritstone Gent?).

That should get you started, plenty more where they came from!

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Tidy thanks a lot!

In reply to dan_dangled:

some great ones around DIY area at stanage further up the path passed plantation, DIY being really good.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Yeah the mask is nails for the grade, pinged off the top a while back, super slopy!

In reply to dan_dangled:

I'm amazed no-one has mentioned Ulysses or The Archangel yet.

In reply to dan_dangled:

If only I knew what a Highball was !!!

In reply to MischaHY:
Errr, highballs up to V6 for someone who's just enjoyed Crescent Arete?

And describing them as highballs is demeaning! Some things are better with mats, and Archangel ain't one of'em.

In reply to victorclimber:

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=highball&rlz=1C1KMZB_enGB563GB563&...

In reply to Jon Stewart:

agree with them all except finger distance as you've still got to do the kayak top out which is outside of normal highballing territory

In reply to victorclimber:

Somewhere between a bouldering problem and soloing a proper route.

Neil

In reply to GuyVG:

I think Finger Distance is one of those where if you can do the 6b start you should be able to solo the 5b finish. I do draw the line at Satin, it's just above my personal soloing threshold (I think it's a notch harder than the Kayak finish).

You can escape left at the top of Finger Distance into a big scoop, it's much nicer than trying to find that hidden crimp at the top of Kayak.

My faves up to V6 (not much different to what Jon said!)...

Curbar - Thomas the Tanked Up Engine, Pretty Face, Canoe, Finger Distance, The Mask, Unreachable Star, Art of Japan.

Baslow - John Wilson, Balls Test, Mad Bilberries (great blank slab), Hot Ziggerty. Eagle Stone bouldering.

Stanage Plantation - slabs above plantation - Daydreamer, Shock Horror Slab, DIY, Torture Garden, Sithee Direct (lovely pebble move), Sithee. At the plantation try Four Star, or tie your spotter down and go for it on Star Trek (more people should do this)

Burbage North - Small Is Beautiful, All Quiet, Nicotine Stain, Irrepressible Urge

Chatsworth - Shy Boy (recently re-cleaned) and Desperot. Then head up to Dobb Edge

In reply to Neil Williams:

well thanks for that Neil.I must have been doing them for years then ,but I called them Routes or Boulder problems

In reply to victorclimber:


Sometimes new words get invented.

In reply to victorclimber:

The difference is that with highballing, you employ a few pads so you treat a bold route more like a protected route or a boulder problem than a solo. E.g. DIY is E3 6a climbed as a trad route, but 'highball V3' with pads.

I always find the application of bouldering grades to highballs a bit annoying though, because being able to climb V3 doesn't imply you'll be able to do DIY. Highballing certainly reduces the adjectival grade, but it still requires some of the judgement and bottle of trad climbing. Often it feels to me like the pads knock a grade off the route, so DIY feels E2 6a, for example.

In reply to dan_dangled:

Curbar,The Toy,preferably without mats,as we oldies used to solo it....


Mitch

In reply to paul mitchell:

Not this oldie. He used to fall off it, with a rope.

In reply to dan_dangled:

Conan the Librarian on Mothercap is up there with the others as an uber classic. Barely a highball really, unless you top it out. Which I've yet to do.