/ UKC Fit Club Week 371

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mattrm - on 27 Apr 2014

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.

Psyche video of the week - http://www.vimeo.com/61300035 - awful music, but that's some impressive training - Suggestions welcome

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity

Link to last week's thread:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=584782

biscuit - Good to see you back. Well done on the 7b+ progress. :D on the bike
Joughton - Again nice to see you again. Well done on the 7c onsight. 8a'll come soon I'm sure.
Alun - 7A+, very impressive. Hope the daughter is better now.
grubes - Lots of riding. Hope the ride is going well. If you want to sponsor him - http://www.justgiving.com/grubes
Exile - E5 sounds fun. Lots more mtbing as well.
hms - Well done on the V3s and V4.
mrchewy - Snakes and Ladders? Proper adventure that. Well done on the E1
mbh - Well at least you're still getting out there. Keep it up chap.
Tyler - Welcome back chap. Running is hard and if you don't do it often DOMS is a killer. Don't be too disillusioned on the weight, it'll come off eventually.
JimmyKay - 7C and some monster core sessions. Good week there.
stevemarkperry - 6C+, very nice. Lots of mtbing as well.
Ally Smith - Well done on the 8b. Good progress towards the 8c. Shoulder better? Injuries suck arse.
mattrm - feh...
Luke Owens - Lots of hard bouldering ticks there.
IainRUK - Even supermen have bad weeks. I'm sure you'll be fine for the races tho.
ashley1_scott - Welcome to FC. Some ncie long sessions there. Enjoy the Peak.
Tubb93 - Well done on the 6b onsight. Nice step up. If you can onsight 6b, then a 6c redpoint is doable.
Nomics4sale - Well done with the 7a red point, it's a bit of a milestone grade, so big congrats.
Humperdink - Sounds excellent. Good to see you're making such excellent progress.
pork pie girl - Stretching is always a good plan. Nice to see you're making progress with baboo baboo.
Sankey - Welcome back to the UK. Bet you're glad to get back to climbing.
Just Tintin - Lots of routes and bouldering. What a lovely week. Sorry I missed your update last week.
Nick Russell - More classic routes in the bag. Nice!
Jamming Dodger - I like yoga. It's deffo worth doing, good for climbing.
Dandan82 - :( on the finger. Hope it's better?

Sorry the stats aren't great, but I've just done them quickly this morning. Lots of good progress and some nice ticks this week. Also it's nice to see biscuit, Joughton, Tyler et al back
Post edited at 11:20
Dandan82 - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt,
I'll get in quick as my week is pretty easy to sum up, no training, sporadic stretching and rehab exercises, finger is still much the same.
I'm going to get back into core and antagonist training next week with a little super light climbing and just try and get this finger sorted. I hope to have some contact from my physio too so I should have a plan for moving forward.
I'm definitely not giving up!
Nick Russell on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:
> Nick Russell - More classic routes in the bag. Nice!

Yeah, enjoying the classics at the moment, unfortunately that means slacking off the hard stuff! I'm sure I'll get back into that soon. It's hard to force it and the weather isn't really playing ball at the moment.

M - Still in the Lake district, another 'classic rock tick': Rib and Slab on Pillar rock. Apparently we were lucky to find it dry, but other than the wind conditions were great!
T - Drove to Borrowdale, got rained on. Set off back, turned around at jct 14 on the M6 and headed to the Roaches for a couple of hours. Sent "Joe's arete" (about 3rd attempt, using lank beta I reckon) then did 'Technical Slab' and "Via Dolorosa". All a bit green and damp, but still a good afternoon.
W - Swimming, 2.4km
T - Fingerboard, the sort of session I mentioned in week 369: short run (~3km, 16 minutes), 15 minutes easy hangs and 'arm flailing', 9 sets of repeaters (about 40 minutes) then some core and antagonist work (about 15-20 minutes) and finally stretching. Takes ages, but I figure it's better if I have the time.
F - Rest
S - Swimming gala, Cotswold series: just a local league gala, and good fun. I won the 100m backstroke (surprisingly, since it's really not my race) in 1:12.34 and our team dominated both relays. I got the fly leg in the 4x40 medley (31.12 - respectable) and my 50m freestyle was just over 27s. No really impressive times, but more benchmarks for me.
S - Bouldering at Bloc. Followed by the usual core/antagonist.

A total of 4 'classic rock' routes over the Easter 'weekend' (more like 6 days for me), all good fun.

I've been trying to get better at shoulder antagonist exercises and stretching. They're sounding awful, think 'bag of loose pebbles'. I'm going to see Nina tomorrow. I don't expect a quick fix, and I probably already know what I should be doing about it, but it will be good to get a professional opinion.

Short term goals (April)
Make some progress on 7c. Looking very unlikely. Thursday of this week looks like the next time I could get out sport climbing.
Climb some classic Lake district mountain routes at Easter. Tick. Really enjoyed the mountain crag experience, and it was mostly dry!

Medium term goals (end of June)
7c sport
Make some progress on 7c+.
Recce most of the 'Staffordshire nose'. 8/31 routes climbed.
At least 2 more E4 attempts.

Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+, season's best: 7a+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 1, clean onsight: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 131/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr, 26.98 50fr, 1:12.45 100bk, 31.12 50fly
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
Tubb93 - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks mattrm.

STG (by end of May)

Boulder V6 inside
Consolidate V5 outside: left hand traverse pillar start at parisellas and the edge problem stand start.
Get lots done on two week trip to kalymnos (TICK)
Climb 6c (Managed 6B+ so pretty happy)

MTG (end of '14)
Climb more trad
Boulder V6 in font (September) and V7 by end of year
Onsight 7a redpoint 7b

LTG
Lead 8a
Boulder V9

This week:
M- Went to oddysey climbed a couple of 6a+s and a 6B with one rest.
T- rest day on the beach
W- Went to sea breeze in the morning just some easy leads, then had fun deep water soloing in the afternoon
T- Went to poets. Climbed 6B+ second attempt :)
F- Had fun on the last day with everyone projecting a 7B short lead.
S- Travelled home
S- Quick little fingerboard session

Had an amazing time in kalymnos. Will certainly return!! Now time for exams for the next month and squeeze in as much climbing as I can around that.
JimmyKay - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Yeah. The running phase over winter has really helped me apply myself. I've never really been able to keep up training for climbing before. However, I've just replaced all of my training runs with core or pull up sessions and it seems to be going pretty well.

M-Rest
T-Raven Tor, v.short warm up. Ticked Ben's Roof(7C) first go (from the proper start this time-felt v.easy after a rest day) packed up and drove back to the wall. Had a massive boulder session. Made huge progress on a 7C at the wall which I couldn't do at all 3months ago. 450core movements, 3x2:30min plank, 120 press-ups.
W-5mile run. Averaged about 7:30min mile before stomach went a bit dodge.
T-Froggatt, almost got Sole Power (7C) second go but fell off and landed on a rock bruising my heel. It swelled up a little so I sacked it off. Stopped by Old King Cascade (7B) on the way back to the car and ticked it 3/4th go? Drove over to Burbage and I managed Famous Grouse(7B+/C) with the new heel beta. It was a very warm day to say the least. Sweaty hands and no wind! Got back to the wall at 8 and did 450core movements, 2x2:00min plank, 120 press-ups.
F-Bit of pottering on easy circuits. Sacked it off relatively early though as I wasn't really feeling it.
S-Easy circuits to warm up. 750core movements. 4x2:30min plank. 200 press-ups.
S-Easy circuits to warm up. 147pull-ups in 20mins. 300core movements. 2x2:30min plank. 80press-ups. 3 sets of 12 windscreen wipers.

Easter ticklist:

Famous Grouse (7B+/C);Old King Cascade (7B);Ben's Roof (7C);Mermaid (7A);Breakfast (7A);The Terrace (7C);Safe Bet (6C);Boyager (7A+);Special K (7C);Cruella (7B);Ratt Roof (7B+);Milky Buttons (7B);The Hard Arete (7A+);S&M (7A+)Gibb Tor Fin Sit (7B);Gibbering Right (6C+);Fish Arete (6C+);Enhancing Hero (6C).

grubes - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:
> grubes - Lots of riding. Hope the ride is going well. If you want to sponsor him - http://www.justgiving.com/grubes

Thanks matt i did it

STG (June of 2014):
Lose 8kg
complete my bike ride - TICK
A new tick at malham
Climb harder than 6A in font
MTG (End of 2014):
Lead E2 try onsight
7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Go to El Chorro
LTG (June of 2015):
Visit Kalymnos, catalunya and somewhere adventurous

This week's goals:
cycle the 244 miles for yorkshire air ambulance - TICK!!!!!
get royally wasted on my return to huddersfield - fail but tipsy
Have a lazy sunday doing nothing! eating anything I like and not give a shit - fail went to depot but also ate cheese cake and started drinking at 330

M: rest
T: rest
W: cycled London to Cambridge 89.8k 375m ascent
T: cycled Cambridge to Leicester 113.5k 564m ascent
F: cycled Leicester to Doncaster 126.2k 671m ascent
S: cycled Doncaster to Huddersfield 67.4k 572m ascent
Drank cider and beer and ate chips and gravy
Slightly tipsy ride to the stadium cycled 1k 0m ascent
Road home cycled 2.4k 58m ascent
S: Bouldering at the depot nice 2hours ran out of energy fast but nice squeeze a session in.

Next week Goals:
Not ride my bike
Climb
Recover

Done it :-)
I am psychically broken as my depot session proved but I am happy it's done

Total distance 400.3km (248.7miles)
Total ascent 2240m (7350ft)
Post edited at 16:36
mbh - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to grubes:

Well done, you worked hard for that!

Probably best that you got this post out not too long after 3:30...
grubes - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:
I wrote a blog about my experience.
Blog is here
http://grubesblog.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/i-did-it-p4p5.html
hms - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt. Feeling really flat this week, v despodant.

M Welsh sandstone at Sirhowy. 6b, 6b+, 6c but none of them first time due to (variously) difficulty of route reading grey quarry routes on-sight, a hold breaking,, unexpected mud in a jug. Then tried a 7b on TR and got closed down by the weird crux - 2 finger undercut pocket to a rounded ledge ~5' above. Frustrating.
T cycle commute
W cycle commute. V half hearted fingerboard session as was feeling rubbish.
F cycle commute then TCA. Did all but 1 of the new partial set of 5-6a+ problems, then tried some of the 6a+-6c set. Tried 15 and got 10 of them, but easier end of the grade range. Looking forward to another session on them.
F outside climbing cancelled due to torrential rain. Bloc, problems & circuits.
S TRX core & upper body, then 50 pull-ups, starting from feet on a step so with v slight bend in arms.
S once again, outdoor climbing cancelled due to heavy rain. Routes at UCR. There has been much resetting, but some of the grading seems off-whack. One 6b+ is a joke at the grade - nearer 6c+. Means my fragile little ego feels too nervous to go near any of the new 7as. Anyway, 6b 6b+ / 6b+ 6b / 6b 6b+ / 6c+ 6b+ / 6c+ 6b+ 6b+ 6a .

Not enough routes recently so I'm feeling strong from the bouldering but stamina has taken a distinct hit. Hope to try some harder stuff with Nick on Thurs so fingers tightly crossed wrt weather!
mrchewy - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to grubes:

Nice work fella - bask in the afterglow of glory and cheesecake.
mrchewy - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Mon - Boulder room. Easy warm up, then right knee complained on steep stuff. Sacked it off.
Tue - Repeaters. Knee proper sore.
Wed -Foot on campusing due to knee - felt easier today.
Thu - Rest.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Parents visiting
Sun - Visit family. Good session of pressups, lunges, squats etc.

Tough week. Right knee is starting to complain again, I've been a bit lax on one legged squats etc and it's starting to show. Steep climbing really causes issues - I think I'll just have to focus on the forearms and fingers for a couple of weeks if I'm honest.
Work was hard too, stripping wallpaper all week and not using a steam stripper as they are just to slow. By Thu lunch, the elbows had had it and it made sense to just rest up.

Enjoyed today's session and need to do a lot more of that I feel, as it keeps the body better balanced and then actually stretched properly after.

Been asked to do some big multipitch by a mate I climb with and was quite chuffed to be asked as I think it's way beyond me. He thinks I'm climbing well tho at the minute... that's the first time he's ever said this, it meant a lot. Progress is coming along slowly but it's all progress.
mattrm - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to grubes:

Well done mate. Glad to see that you got it done and aren't too broken.
stevemarkperry - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to grubes:

Well done Grubes, brilliant effort!
Nick Russell on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to hms:
> Feeling really flat this week, v despodant.

I think you can blame the weather for that. I'd been thinking that the rock season was just about to start but then this unsettled, unpredictable stuff came in. Should have gone out on Thursday - it was actually dry most of the day... It will pass soon, I'm sure.
Nick Russell on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to grubes:

Nice one, well done for finishing it!
Joughton on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to grubes: nice one mate, that was a good thing to do for a good cause!

Also a very strong strong couple of weeks from Jimmy, very impressive collection of ticks.
Ally Smith on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to JimmyKay:

Bl**dy good Easter ticklist there JimmyKay!
Joughton on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm: Cheers Matt, just had a bit of a lag in psyche earlier in the month but I've bounced back. Restarting my training cycle means getting strong again, fingers and core.

Mon - Pull-up, Press-up, Sit-up, Leg-raises. Did these in a circuit.
Tue - rest, slightly disappointed at the lack of DOMS, must push harder next time.
Wed - MCC bouldering, new set, bit rubbish. Also feeling weak! Only managed a few V5-6s, a few flashed.
Thurs - rest, headed up to Newcastle for visit day, decided I'm happy going there so I'm going to firm it.
Fri - Fingerboard session. Didn't have the boredom threshold required for repeaters so just set about finding out what my best efforts were on each hold. Can manage the 35s for a while, even with some leg raises (great workout), can hang the smallest edge on front three and back three half crimp. Rubbish going down to two fingers though so something to work on. Also managed one arm dead hangs on the middle slot for about four seconds, again something I'd like to improve on.
Sat - Decided I was doing too many pull-ups and needed to mix it up a bit. Did a shirt session of butterfly-press-thingies and then some offset pull-ups.
Sun - rest, improved DOMS in chest and shoulders.

So a decent week, good to fit in a decent training volume with some revision.

Cheers, Jake
Exile - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for doing fit club again. E5 was fun - on a top rope!

Aims:

Spring HP The Asylum E5 6a(?) RP 7a quickly then possibly 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)

Summer Lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)

Next winter start with VI 7

Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

M: Nothing
T: 1.5hrs mtbing at Glentress with the family then a solo blast around the red - good to get some adult cardio in
W: 6hrs mtbing with the family at Glentress - a couple of lung bursting rides from the bottom to top car parks to retrieve vehicles, so again, a bit of adult cardio
T: 2.5hrs easy family mtbing at Glentress
F: 1.5hrs wall session. Lapping previously completed traverses for endurance. Need to keep a minimum of a wall session every other week going through the Summer to keep 'butch' endurance and body tension training up
S: Nothing
S: 1,5 hrs climbing at Scout Scar. TR x 2 on A Vision of Things Gone Wild, (7b.) Got an easier sequence for the hard move at the bottom and sussed out how to do the crux, (all be it with a little assistance from the rope,) so now know how to do all the moves. Good progress for,(another,) short session.

A little thin on the climbing this week, but all ok. Back to work tomorrow, (new job,) so will need to sort a bit of a different routine for training, but think I can keep up the number of sessions.

Weight this morning 11st 12ld.
mattrm - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 11st 12lbs (2lbs loss)

M - Fingerboard
T - 200 dish tucks
W - Rest
T - 200 dish tucks
F - 1 hour bouldering at spot
S - Rest (removing the shed from the garden)
S - Fingerboard

Bouldering session was pretty naff. Felt crap. Could onsight or do second go V2 fine. V3 felt totally impossible. There was one I was part of the way there, but couldn't do the last move. On the upside I lost 2lbs in weight this week. Hopefully will manage the same next week. 11st 10lbs next week. For sure. At the moment I've just got to keep up a bit of climbing while I dig a massive hole in the back of the garden. Which should be a good fitness boost so when I'm done with that I'll hopefully be a in a better place. Also the garden will be done. Basically we've got a 3 ft retaining wall in the garden and I'm going to remove it and step the garden out, with a series of raised beds. Hopefully I'll manage that with out destroying the house or the garden totally.
JimmyKay - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Cheers jake and ally. Did quite a few repeats in the cave as well on a flying visit but only included new ticks. Good effort on the 8b ally. Hopefully one for me some time in the future. Try and tick a couple more 8a's in chorro in 4 weeks.
mattrm - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to JimmyKay:

I'm sure you're capable of 8c if you put your mind to it.
JimmyKay - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers pal. I've just been watching Chasing Legends (Tour de France film) for motivation. I may have been training a lot recently, but I believe the training is only just beginning! Looking back to when Tom Randall used to update on this thread he was training core practically everyday of the week!
Tyler - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

> Also it's nice to see biscuit, Joughton, Tyler et al back

Well after that welcome it'd be rude not to stick with it.

M: Did Wogs at Chudleigh, the first multipitch leading for the wife. OK route but didn't leave me psyched enough to postpone the inevitable long drive home.
T: Stockport routes, despite being with the wall's two resident stamina lords this ended up being a short session, tried to boulder afterwards but my heart 't in it.
W: went to a friend's board with ER of this parish who is on the comeback trail..... Not much done but ended up feeling tired with sore skin so enough obviously
T: Went for a run, first time properly running a new route I scoped out a couple of weeks ago, my Chapter 13 run now has a benchmark time of 47:30 so is possibly a bit too short or easy (all the height gain is at the start, apart of which I walk) so may have to extend.
F: Lazy
S: Malham, straight in the project, too cold to warm up. Subsequent goes better, the most micro of beta gleaned for the crux and found a new sequence for the redpoint crux, as this was my last go I don't know if it'll be an improvement when tired.
S: Back to Malham, tired and skinless so getting on Bongo Fury was a daft idea, stayed on top rope, enjoyed the sun after yesterday's freezing wind despie my sore tips.

Big news of the week is I've taken proper steps to arrest my weight gain, W, T and F I ate very little, blow out on Sat but back with the program now until next Sat. 2 pounds lost
hms - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to Nick Russell:

Certainly the weather doesn't help. Getting all mentally prepared to get into rock then having to call it off is so frustrating! Sadly Thurs last week was never an option as elder daughter was returning to uni that day, plus I was having to work longer days anyway to cover the hours I hadn't worked on the BH - I get BH hours pro-rated so some BHs I effectively have to work the hours at other times.

Anyway, looking forward to this Thurs. As I said, should be able to get to ByG if that's our preferred venue by v early afternoon indeed.
Alun - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks again Matt for the summary!

STG:
Get fit for Lleida trip (coming up this weekend! Excited!)
Etape Eryri in June (165km on road bike, promoted to STG this week)

MTG: Sport 7c, boulder 7C.

LTG: Sport 8a

M - Rest after Targa weekend
T - Rest
W - Short stamina session on garage wall. Too short due to chores
T - Road ride with my bro. 125km and 2800m climbing. Felt awesome at the end.
F - Another road ride, 75km with 1500m climbing. Felt great. Had a crack at a proper time on a 2km climb Strava segment, and got into top 100 (out of 600). Not bad for a first effort, I suppose.
S - Short stamina session on garage wall. Too short again really
S - Proper stamina session on garage wall. Felt really strong

Weight this morning was a jaw-droppingly low 66.8kg. I even changed the battery in the scales cos I didn't believe it. Must have been all the cycling kms I did during the latter half of the week. That's 11kg lost since 1st Jan. None of my clothes fit me!

This coming Friday my old mate Jo B arrives and we are off for a weekend's cragging around Lleida, staying in Abella de la Conca. Jo wants to onsight 7b+. I'd be happy if I ticked 7b though I strongly suspect I should be ticking 7c at the moment. I can't be arsed to faff around trying the same route for several days though, I just want to enjoy myself without feeling any redpoint pressure, so I'll try a 7c or two but if they don't go within the first or second RP burn then I'll move on. (Honest!)

mbh - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt. Sometimes it seems like I am just hanging in there, so thanks for the encouragement.

M - 11.6 miles flat @7:39 pace, swapping keys with wife part way, she going the other way. This two car thing is bound to end in tears one day, but so far so good.
T-Th - nothing! Rubbish.
F - 10.2 miles on coast path, around St Agnes Head and back
S- 10.8 miles, flat start, hilly end
S - 16.0 miles, totally wasted by the end, and miffed to miss 50 miles target for week, so later did a short 3 miles around town.

So that makes 51.6 miles and 1440 m or 4730 ft ascent.

A bit of a silly week really, training wise (work etc), with not much after day one at any speed, in fact some at not much of a speed at all, but I've just run 19 miles today so I am not about to feel anything other than virtuous!

Joughton on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to JimmyKay: From what I've heard El Ave Phoenix (or something like that) might be an 8a worth an onsight attempt, if you haven't been on it already... suppose with it being later in the year you'll be living at Desplomilandia though - you should crush!
JimmyKay - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to Joughton:
Was eyeing this up in the guidebook.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=113542

and

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=113538
Post edited at 21:45
IainRUK - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm: Better week.. 118 miles, 2 effort sessions and 2 races.. won both, a 5k saturday, 50k today and the missus won the 5k too so $500 in prize money.. oh and a sunvisor from the 50k..

m 20.5 mile road and trail run 6:55 pace
t 15 total with lunch: steady run/ pm: Track, 3 x 2 mile reps on boat house row 5:50 pace tired
w 13 in the evening run to the shop then 7 mile run, did 10 at 6:55 pace and was shattered so slow jog back…
t 14 miles total with am: 6 mile run 7:25 pace collingswood lakes and rivers, pm: Treadmill sess, 2 miles at 8:00 then 6 x 0.5 miles at 5:18-5:07 pace), 0.3 mile recovery and 0.6 mile cool (9:30 pace) down.
f 13 miles total am: steady 7.8 7:55 pace pm: slower 5.22 at 8:25 pace
s 13.5 miles total am: 5k race with warm up, 5k race, 1st in 17:15, steady as no competition despite prize money, 2nd was 19:40 so no need to push. eve: 6,6 miles 400m ascent trail run appalachia checking out sundays race
s Ironmasters challenge 50k trail race out in appalacian 4:48 1st. Terrible start, with the front 3 we miss a sign and run 1.4 miles extra, double back and have to catch the back of the field and over take 150 runners on narrow single track.. some werent up for letting me pass.. caught 1st after 13 miles and won by 15 mins in I think a new record...
ads.ukclimbing.com
Ally Smith on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Re-hab week went a bit pear shaped

LTG (End 2014):
- Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Montenegro?)
- Complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race (not intending to be competitive, but still need to start running up hills again!)

MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
- Buy a house and build some home training faciliites
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham (had a weird allergic reaction last time I went on the extension)
- Bolt the Dinbren project (Luke Owens - thanks for the drill loan!)
- On-sight some E5s in prep for...
- Brandler-Hasse Cime Grande
- Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
- Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF; leaner post Spanish trip despite sub-optimal diet - 75.1kg and 6.7% BF this morning

STG (The coming week)
- Rest up, regain full pain-free movement in shoulder
- Investigate possible projects


Last week:
M - Figols; as per last week.
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - Was supposed to be a gentle 1 hour boulder before sunset, but turned into an epic lamplight and beatbox session ‘til 11pm. Tried lots of things and unfortunately tweaked ring finger again (just as I thought it was better)
F - Rest
S - Malham trying Unjustified and Bat Route (perfect for finger re-hab!) Got a good sequence for 2nd hard bit of Unjustified now, but bulge still feels hard. Bat Route is great – super hard initial bulge might relent to a lanky method.
S - Penmachno Loop 1 & 2 to avoid the dreaded sport climber pigeon leg (discovered on trip last week that my forearm was as big as an 8c climbers calf!). Minor boulder at RAC on way home.
biscuit - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers again Matt.

An up and down week really.

M - Still feeling a bit low in energy but couldn't resist the bike. 20 mile bimble about trying it out. It feels amazing :-)

T - Nothing

W - Cycle commute - 40 miles. Don't like cycling through cities.

Routes - poor session. Feeling quite jaded, probably from cycling. I had an hilarious onsigt of a 6c where i hung off the crux holds for literally a couple of minutes whilst going route blind. Still did it and didn't get pumped but shocking style. I then hurt my finger AGAIN on a 7a. Couldn't be arsed just doing easy routes so just belayed. Grumpy.

Yoga - Really good and quite hard.

T - 45 min run followed by pub grub - oops.

F - Kilnsey. Back on Truth Drug. Cold, windy and a bit rainy. I was feeling confident though and was planning on getting on the lead. Actually did a warm up this time. First go went OK. Figured clipping positions and some new beta. AFter that i just crashed. Everything felt hard and i was all over the place sequence wise. 3rd go i gave up half way up. Really crap session. I was really demoralised but i think (hope) it's more to do with being ill than suddenly becoming crap.

S - Nothing.

S - very poor short run. It hurt to run at any decent pace and i was sweating loads.

So not a great week. I've been waking up every morning feeling tired and aching. I've still not shifted my chesty cough. So i need to listen to my body and take it easy for a week. I'll still do yoga (twice), stretching, and finger rehab stuff but other than that i'll take it easy.

Bike club ride on Sunday. First ever one. It's an 'intro' ride so should be OK.

Then back to climbing the week after. I'm feeling 'fit' but just not able to apply it at the minute. Frustrating !
Sankey - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm: Cheers,

Only one day to report but it is a pretty good occurrence, a days climbing at Malham yesterday. Was thrashing around on Taking the Space, the comment "I saw you up there, trying a new training technique: hanging weakly from jugs!" was apt.

Bizarrely first go on the rope felt quite good, then it all faded.

Anyway, something to aim for and the season ahead so, reasons to be cheerful. Will be on look out for some midweek trips too if anyone fancies it, drive from Sheffield to any of the Yorkshire or Peak venues happily.

STG: RP 7b

MTG: Cassin Route Piz Badille end July

LTG:

RPS: 6c (6) 6c+ (4) 7a (6) 7a+(2)
JimmyKay - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

Bet it wouldn't be as big as Malc Smith's calf!
mattrm - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to Sankey:

I've been trying a new training method as well. Its called 'sitting at the start of the problem, being unable to even pull up onto the first few holds'. I do a few reps of that on each problem and then go round to another V3 and repeat. 3 reps each problem, 10 problems per session. Should see some serious progress soon.

How do you think 'hanging weakly from jugs' improves on that? Could the two methods complement each other?

hms, mbh - I feel your 'meh' and raise you a 'feh'. Feeling tired and crap at the moment.
mbh - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Yes but you warm up by shifting tonnes of earth in the garden, or refitting your entire kitchen, again. What do you expect? Try downsizing to just weeding the front flower bed, or similar, first. You'll be off the ground in no time. :)
Eagle River - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to Sankey:

Ah, I was on Taking the Space on Saturday, figured it was the only route at Malham without crimps!

I think the key to it is getting the Space Race top section wired and properly milking the two rests (one around 3rd/4th bolt where you can get a whole arm behind a big undercut and the hands off knee bar at the start of the Space Race section).

Excellent route though, brilliant climbing on big holds. And with the current forecast it should still be dry next weekend.
Eagle River - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to biscuit:

The wife said she ran into you at yoga! I'll be back on the regular when my wrist isn't injured (rocking the wrist and finger injuries at the moment. Why settle for just one?)

The full hour and a half primary with all the vinyasas is nails!
hms - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Was a little relieved to see that it wasn't just me having a bit of a psyche crisis!
mattrm - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to Eagle River:

It'd be nice to see you back on here. Hope you're well soon.

hms - It's definitely not just you.

mbh - Yes, I suspect that I need to actually rest and not spend the whole evening doing DIY, then exercise and then only climb once a week at most. I think I need to switch to maintenance mode for the next month or so. Just aim to stay at V2 till the garden is dug up.
IainRUK - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to grubes:

well done, I had planned a few beers last night but after a nice ice cold cider and a margarita at the cheesecake factory I just wanted to go to bed.. sleep is sometimes soo good. :-)
grubes - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to IainRUK:

cheers mate I had a few beers but after having problems sleeping all week while away I was out like a light.
pork pie girl - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

brief summary of last week:

6x cardio (which inc two MTB rides.. ace and two longer sessions in the gym.. because i felt like it)

4x core

2x weights inc the usual pull up malarky

2x bouldering at rochdale... okish

1 x gordale (malham closed)... played on supercool on TR,, good route

1x malham.. baboo baboo. quite tired but put loads of effort in.. must get off TR

stretched about 4 times... hamstrings and It bands feel better,, still crap at high step ups!!

TTFN

PPG :o)
Si Cox - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Apologies for recent absence. Combination of Easter, injury and lack of activity.

Managed to get back on the wall this morning for the first time in a week, so will see how it goes.

In terms of goals, feel it'd probably help to define those a bit more. Since time is short here are s few that I hope to refine:

- Keep up all-round fitness through weekly/bi-weekly (if going well) trail runs
- Avoid back problems through maintaining stretches, exercises and Pilates
- Look after niggles and tweaks (left knee, wrists)
- Long term E1 trad onsight
- Medium term consoliate HVS trad
- Onsight red problem (V5) at Brookes
Nick Russell on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to Nick Russell:

I've been re-thinking my goals a little bit as the current ones aren't really working for me right now. Basically, I feel like the long-term direction is good but the shorter-term goals didn't really reflect my motivation/direction so here goes with a slightly different structure.

In particular, I'm leaving trad off the short term goals entirely. I find it doesn't really lend itself to that kind of target in the way that sport or bouldering does (well, headpointing might) and I perform best when I just 'have a go' on a route that looks good. I'll still be eyeing up the E4s when I'm at the crag, but don't want to feel pressure (from myself) to get on them if it doesn't feel good, or I don't really like the look of the line.

2014 goals
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+, season's best: 7a+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 1, clean onsight: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 131/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr*, 26.98 50 fr, 1:12.34 100 bk, 31.12 50 fly*
*Relay splits


Short-term goals
  • Find then send a sport project in 7b-7c range.
    A bit of a moving target. As soon as the first one's down I'll move on to the next!
  • Re-gain some strength: keep up 2 bouldering/fingerboard sessions per week.
    I feel like I spent a bit too much time training endurance over the winter and never got round to picking up the strength again. Need to get onto that.
  • Plan/train for trips in September/October: 1 week in Lundy, 2 weeks in US East Coast.
    I think I'll focus on being in good sport shape for trip to Rumney/Red River Gorge. The trad skills for Lundy (and New Hampshire granite) will keep ticking over.
  • Humperdink - on 28 Apr 2014
    In reply to IainRUK:

    Good effort on the 50K, winning despite going off course!
    Humperdink - on 28 Apr 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    In reply to mattrm:
    > Humperdink - Sounds excellent. Good to see you're making such excellent progress.

    Cheers Matt and thanks once again for doing this weeks.

    Great week for me this week, see below. It was all about quality not quantity this week.

    M: am 35min easy 5M
    Tu: pm 18mins easy + strides 2/3M
    W: 3000m race at Watford Open Meeting. Didn't get to run until 22:15pm due to the program over running but at least I was in the fastest 3000m race and there was no wind and a bit of drizzle so good conditions. There were 31 in the race so lots of shoving going on (and I nearly went down after about 500m) but eventually it settled down. Felt great through the first 4 laps and was getting lots of encouragement from trackside. Proably wasted a bit of energy on the penultimate lap trying to improve position and should have waited until the bell but came home in 14th around 6 seconds behind my teamate but in a massive PB!! - 8:32.61 - Get in! It was a quality field! Had no idea I was in that kind of shape so really looking forward to a 5000 now and seeing if I can smash that PB as well. 7M total
    Th: pm 7M easy 47:38
    F: am 20mins easy, pm 20mins easy 5M total
    Sa: Track Session: 800,600,400 @ 1500m pace off 3min/2min then 8min recovery then 400,300,200 @ 800m pace off 4mins. Went off too fast on the first rep but times were 2:11,1:38,63 (~65 av), 60/61,45,29 (60 av) so pleased with that as well and didn't end the session in bits. 7/8M total
    Su: Steady run 1:31:05 13/14M total

    52M for the week and one PB!!

    There is a video of the race here just in case anyone has trouble sleeping: http://www.tacdistancerunners.com/watford-open-meeting-wednesday-23rd-april.html (its 3000m race 3)
    Humperdink - on 28 Apr 2014
    In reply to grubes:

    Well done - great effort!
    AJM - on 28 Apr 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Did you have good beta on Bat Route Ally? Nt that I can give any, or have been any nearer it than the chains below it, but I thought either Buster or Will K saying the roof was about V7...?
    IainRUK - on 28 Apr 2014
    In reply to Humperdink:

    wow thats a very impressive 3000m time.. 2:51 min k's!

    Sankey - on 28 Apr 2014
    In reply to mattrm: well the way my arms feel today I hope I was training something, might try your boulder regime at the wall later in the week!



    Sankey - on 28 Apr 2014
    In reply to Eagle River:

    Yep, is sustained but pretty much devoid of crimps, undercut jug strength is what's needed. Can imagine those rests will be key for sure...
    Humperdink - on 28 Apr 2014
    In reply to IainRUK:

    Cheers! Definitely an advantage to run in a good race and get dragged round rather than trying to front run that time.
    Ali - on 28 Apr 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Do I not get a comment?! ;oP

    Quiet week last week - 2km run in orienteering relays Monday - came joint 3rd on my leg. Biscuit Factory session Thurs - power endurance circuits - 1x26 move 6c, 3 min rest, 1x27 move 6a, 3 mins rest, repeat, then repeat full set. Felt good to try hard :o)

    Apart from that had a nasty cold all week so not been feeling up to running or much exercise. Also been getting ready for Live Below the Line (£1 food a day for 5 days) challenge which I'm on now. Currently feeling very full and chuffed after an evening's cooking which ended in this:

    http://www.averybusylife.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/live-below-line-meal-of-week.html

    Delish - and total cost about 30p or something.
    Nick Russell on 28 Apr 2014
    In reply to Ali:
    > Delish - and total cost about 30p or something.

    Looks awesome! And that challenge sounds pretty tough, but good fun. Let us know how it goes...
    mattrm - on 28 Apr 2014
    In reply to Ali:

    Argh! I'm really sorry I missed you out. I was doing it in a rush on Sunday morning so I could get into the garden to start work on the shed base.
    Just Tintin - on 29 Apr 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Hi Matt,

    Thanks for doing Fit club! Terrible week this week for training as was organising a cycle sportive for charity at work, which happened on Sunday.

    so:
    M: Burbage North bouldering up to V3
    T-F: nothing :(
    S: Cycled the family 5 mile course putting out signs and being attacked by cars
    S: working 4am-10pm fetching carrying and panicking. Glad that's over. Promise to be better next week as less work!
    Jamming Dodger on 29 Apr 2014
    In reply to Eagle River:
    > (In reply to biscuit)
    >
    > The wife said she ran into you at yoga! I'll be back on the regular when my wrist isn't injured (rocking the wrist and finger injuries at the moment. Why settle for just one?)
    >
    > The full hour and a half primary with all the vinyasas is nails!

    It was two hours on Friday! But it seemed to fly by.
    I loved it, but it was quite painful by the end. The things that instructor can do are just crazy. I live in hope. The thing I didnt expect was how much i'd enjoy the mental side of it. I feel really good afterwards.
    Can't remember what I did last week other than a couple of bike rides, yoga twice and a couple of runs. We found a nice new running loop which we can extend or shorten depending on how we feel, and it has a pub. Nom nom nom. Is a glass of wine and sweet potato fries (and goats cheese toasts... and chorizo dip...) a good post-run re-fuelling food? Ahem...
    Last night was the LAST mid week drinking session.



    Jamming Dodger on 29 Apr 2014
    In reply to biscuit:


    > Yoga - Really good and quite hard.
    You were pulling some good faces ;)


    > S - very poor short run. It hurt to run at any decent pace and i was sweating loads.
    To be fair you had to keep stopping to herd the kids, so it made it very disjointed for you. Constant stopping on a run kills me. Plus it was very muggy out. Next one will be better (we'll leave the kids at home ;))
    Ally Smith on 29 Apr 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    V7 seems unlikely!

    Ted said it was solid 7B, and others were touting 7B+/C from belay to jug.

    Annoyingly i couldn't get any purchase out of the right drop knee method Ted was deploying.

    I couldn't get into a similar move at Pantymwyn either last week, but after some stretching managed to twist my way in last night, so i'm hopeful for some progress at the weekend!

    ads.ukclimbing.com
    AJM - on 29 Apr 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    I'm only the messenger!

    I think I was quoted 7c to somewhere a few moves above the belay and V7 from there. So maybe there's a different definition of "the crux" too.

    Got escamarla today. 5 tie ins. Fastest yet?
    Ally Smith on 29 Apr 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Great work AJM. Glad to hear the psyche has returned!

    Why not try the Escamarla/Ramadan link for a quick 8a tick?

    I hope Ali's finger is on the mend?
    AJM - on 29 Apr 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    She's doing well actually. Toproped crosta panic and viagraman the past fwe days, each with a couple of rests but it's been good for her confidence and the larger holds haven't aggravated her finger either.

    If all goes well we are probably moving north to Tarn soon, although Ryanair cancelling flights mean one of our guests might be staying here a few days longer than planned. I think I'd maybe try something else first though, the traverse is sharp and it'd be nice to do something new. But let's see...!
    Ali - on 30 Apr 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Hee hee, no worries, I was kidding ;o)
    Ali - on 30 Apr 2014
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Good fun...and not such good fun - had to abandon climbing session last night after felt all light headed and dizzy. Mouth is super dry too from drinking water all the time (though varying it with nettle and mint tea). I figured part of the problem was lack of salt so upped my intake of that.

    Best bit was miraculously finding a battered bag of bananas, bag of satsumas and leek and potato soup mix to spend my final 30p on - never seen a bargain like it in London but perfect timing! Batch of banana cakes (well sort of cakes) baked = happy Ali :o)

    Lasagne tonight - not sure making pasta with self raising flour really works...

    And huge big thanks to grubes for the sponsorship! :o)
    ashley1_scott - on 01 May 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    This is going to be a fairly short update due to resting.
    M. Rested
    T. Rested
    W. Rested
    T. Got up to the peaks around 3pm, followed the guide and got lost so asked a couple of walkers where the boulders were. Seems easy to find Cratcliffe as long as you don't bother reading the directions in the guide. Managed to do a couple of 3+'s in our approach shoes ( cleaned them off before getting on the rock)
    F. Had planned on heading to Burbage South Boulders, but sadly due to rain all day we had to bail on outside and head to the centres. Went to Awesome Walls, The Edge and the Foundry, well you have to try them all :D
    S. Went to Climbing Works as yet again the rain had come in. Headed over to see my brother in derby on the way home.
    S. Slept
    Luke Owens - on 02 May 2014
    In reply to mattrm: Cheers Matt! Just realised I posted this in Fit Club 170...

    Monday: 12 Wide Grip Pull Ups

    4 x 10 Offset Pull-Ups
    2 x 10 Lower Offset Pull-Ups

    3 x 10 Dumbell Upright Rows (15kg)
    3 x 10 Good Mornings (30kg)

    Evening: 30 mins Aerocap

    Tuesday: Pantymwyn - Did the 7A+ Firestarter into Sparks link in mega greasy conditions. Video: http://www.vimeo.com/92890963

    Wednesday: 12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips

    Deadhangs (Half crimp)
    3 x 10secs - 30mm edge
    5 x 10secs - First joint edge

    3 x 1min Plank
    3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises

    Pantymwyn - Started working on "Panty's Down" (7A+). Can do the crux move, just need to work the rest.

    Friday: Rest

    Saturday: Rest

    Sunday: Rest - Had planned to hit the slate that's why I had rested. Couldn't get out due to family commitments and couldn't get psyched to train at home.
    stevemarkperry - on 02 May 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    This Week:

    Weight: 140 lbs

    M: Mountain biking at Coed y Brenin
    T: Rest
    W: A good session on Flowers. I don't think the conditions were very good on this problem today as my fingers just kept on slipping off the crucial right hand as I tried to bring my heel up for the next move. I got very close a couple of times but just pinged off at the last minute. Repeated some other stuff and played on Nadin's Trav.
    T:
    F: Weights, upper body.
    S: Intervals (bike) then a session on Flowers (greasy).
    S: 18km mountain bike ride at the Chase.


    STG:
    Drunk Enough Font 6C+ (Roaches) (TICK!)
    -> Sleeping With The Flowers 6C+/7A (Roaches)
    Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
    Lead Severe (Route TBD)
    Hit the trails on the MTB when possible


    MTG (by Dec 2014):
    Font 7B
    500 pitches this year, lead or second (lead/second/total): (2/4/6)

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