/ What shape are your nuts?
What nuts do you like and why?
Depending on where you climb, DMM Offsets are genuinely superb. Tremadog comes to mind.
I'll be following this thread with interest - I'm about to pick up a set of Offsets as a second set of nuts, but want to pad out the smaller sizes with something else, and I can't decide what to go with - Superlights, Metolious Curved Nuts, plain old Rocks, or the larger brass offsets...
What has your mate got? I've got rocks, mate has wallnuts. Single pitch stuff I'm happy with mine, he's happy with his but on bigger routes we put all the nuts together and have great coverage and sizes. It really is as simple as that.
Would deffinately reccomend DMM offsets, find them almost more usefull than wallnus, they generally just slot in and feel bomber in cracks where wallnuts just dont seat rihgt.
Also recently started using peanuts and find them really usefull for protecting smaller cracks. Used them all the time in my recent trip to pembroke.
A fried of mine recently bought wild coutry superlights and had been raving about them too, similar sizes to the smaller dmm nuts but half the width meaing they often sit better in more irregularly textured placemnts.
My solution to exactly this issue is DMM Peanuts 3,4 & 5 (covering Wallnuts 1-3) plus WC Superlights 4,5 & 6.
It maintains the useful colour-coding and alongside the Offsets/Wallnuts effectively gives me triples of the mid-sizes 4-6, doubles of 1-3 plus 7 & 8, and then single Wallnuts 9,10 & 11. I find it works extremely well, but it is not the simplest/cheapest option.
I also have a full set of DMM Brass Offsets on a separate biner which are only carried for specific routes. I don't find mixing them with the other styles very effective, others find different.
Strikes me I would never want to place a peenut over a brassie.
DMM walnuts size 1-11 (plus torque nuts 1-4), doubled up with DMM peanuts and offsets (plus DMM micro-nuts size 00-0.75). That gives me a full double set of static protection from size 0.25-11, plus the 2 biggest torque nuts and 2 smallest micros extending the range, perfect!
I carry most of that on most routes from grit up to 11 pitch mountain routes.
Wallnuts, alloy offsets and brass offsets for me all racked on 3 biners. More often than not the brassies will seat much better than the other small nuts I have.
I also have a set of rocks which I add/subtract depending on where I'm climbing.
Definitely recommend offsets next though, they're brilliant especially for millstone peg scars and funky placements. You do have to be aware that they might not be as solid as they look, you can only see the outer edge when they're in after all so have a play around on the floor, you soon get an eye for what goes best where.
That's odd. I'd pretty much always take a decent Peenut 4 or 5 (or Wallnut 1-3) placement, if one is available, over using a soldered brass nut .
Swaged aluminium nuts, especially DMM ones in 7075 alloy, are much less prone to failure by pulling through, are more durable and generally easier to remove, especially if weighted.
That said, I will concede you may have a point as regards the Peenut 3. It has 2.0mm diameter wire whereas other alternatives have 2.5mm wire and have a higher theoretical strength. As I've already stated, I don't use Peenuts 1 & 2 for a variety of reason.
How on earth do you ever get up anything carrying all that?
Pesonally, I go for 1-11 Wallnuts, and a full compliment of alloy and brass offsets. There is no gap between them, that's why the biggest brass offset is number 6 and the smallest alloy offset is a 7. I also have two size 4's, but that's through accident (read: swag) rather than design.
If I'm on a grit route I'll scale that down to just wallnuts, and if I can get a handle on what I need from the bottom, probably not even a full set.
Hexes are just a waste of space/weight and cause significant ear damage, it's the 21st century, just use some cams (nb: touchpaper lit...).
Really? Peenuts over brass nuts? As I'm sure you're aware, the brass is soft and deforms. The ally is less soft, and less deformable. So in a non-perfect placement, its more likely the rock will 'reshape' the brass nut to fit, and it will stay in. The harder alloy of the peenut is less malleable, and can exert huge forces on tiny bits of rock - possibly resulting in their failure and subsequent appearance of your previously placed nut in your hand. In terms of kN rating, brass nuts are the same as peenuts (equivalent sizes) if not stronger.
So a back of the envelope calculation puts torque nuts + peanuts + offsets + micro nuts at significantly less than a set of cams..... just sayin', like.
EDIT: and also probably about the same as a windproof.
the same way anybody else does, by climbing...by the sounds of it our racks are fairly like for like (brass vs peanuts) the only difference being you carry cams instead of hexes, which are much heavier, therefore your statement is somewhat bizzare?
a well placed hex/torque nut is by far the most reliable (and maybe more importantly reasuring!) gear placement around, except maybe a big fat thread. This notion that cams should have replaced hexes is just bollocks, they serve different purposes. but a torque nut will will fit where most cams (of that size) would fit, whereas there are plenty of hex placements where a cam would be unsuitable...
Conversely, due to a low contact area and high pressures the brass nut may deform sufficiently to pull right through the placement where as the alloy nut may not deform as much and hold.
However, my point was never that brass aren't superb kit in certain placements, but merely that I will start by trying to place a (durable) alloy nut, and only if I am not happy with that will I look at placing a (less durable) brass nut.
BD stoppers are very nice...
For an ex-engineer, you sure have a funny idea of the malleability of hard solids.
BD Stoppers all the way - I have a double set mixed with (multiple) sets of IMPS, though admittedly I rarely take all of it up any given climb. I like the shape and sizings of the Stoppers and of all the wires I've used (Wallnuts, Classic/Anodized/Superlight Rocks, Kong's Chocks, Camp Pro Nuts).
I dislike the more pronounced taper and curve of the wallnuts, finding they have a tendency to either get stuck or not seat as nicely, and also, not a fan of offsets - can't seem to get decent placements and haven't found them to be overly confidence inspiring.
However, this is a) entirely personal preference and b) heavily dependent on what you rock climb, where and how hard.
Lastly, I'm not convinced by having two different sets of wires - given that I have a preferred set, I figured I would rather have doubles of sizes, than try fiddle in a less unfamiliar or less preferred wire, carried just for the sake of "variety".
When we go climbing in May we'll use my gear :P
Only as long as we use my second hand rope :)
Ian: What are you on about? Hexes on rope are a gift from the Gods. Really big, heavy ones, that give you a dead leg as you climb. There's nothing more satisfying than finding a perfect placement for the seagull crusher.
Where are my Ron Hills?
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