/ What shape are your nuts?

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Oujmik - on 29 Apr 2014
Mine are the shape of wallnuts, DMM Wallnuts that is. I like the slightly curved design and find it really helps with getting a secure placement. Was thinking of getting a second set soon as I'm beginning to get into multipitch. Could just pick up anothe set of wallnuts, but was thinking it might be better to have a different brand (or perhaps DMM offsets?) to get a slightly different shape.


What nuts do you like and why?
neuromancer - on 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Oujmik:

Depending on where you climb, DMM Offsets are genuinely superb. Tremadog comes to mind.
teh_mark - on 29 Apr 2014
In reply to neuromancer:

I'll be following this thread with interest - I'm about to pick up a set of Offsets as a second set of nuts, but want to pad out the smaller sizes with something else, and I can't decide what to go with - Superlights, Metolious Curved Nuts, plain old Rocks, or the larger brass offsets...
wilkie14c - on 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Oujmik:

What has your mate got? I've got rocks, mate has wallnuts. Single pitch stuff I'm happy with mine, he's happy with his but on bigger routes we put all the nuts together and have great coverage and sizes. It really is as simple as that.
Blackmud on 29 Apr 2014
Mine are the shape of old, battered, and slightly rusty WC Rocks, with a few odds and sods thrown in. Why? Because I was given them by someone who was given them by someone else, and I'm far too poor/cheap/thrifty/brave/stupid to replace them.
SuperLee1985 - on 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Oujmik:

Would deffinately reccomend DMM offsets, find them almost more usefull than wallnus, they generally just slot in and feel bomber in cracks where wallnuts just dont seat rihgt.

Also recently started using peanuts and find them really usefull for protecting smaller cracks. Used them all the time in my recent trip to pembroke.

A fried of mine recently bought wild coutry superlights and had been raving about them too, similar sizes to the smaller dmm nuts but half the width meaing they often sit better in more irregularly textured placemnts.
The Ex-Engineer - on 29 Apr 2014
In reply to teh_mark:
> ... want to pad out the smaller sizes with something else, and I can't decide what to go with - Superlights, Metolious Curved Nuts, plain old Rocks, or the larger brass offsets...

My solution to exactly this issue is DMM Peanuts 3,4 & 5 (covering Wallnuts 1-3) plus WC Superlights 4,5 & 6.

It maintains the useful colour-coding and alongside the Offsets/Wallnuts effectively gives me triples of the mid-sizes 4-6, doubles of 1-3 plus 7 & 8, and then single Wallnuts 9,10 & 11. I find it works extremely well, but it is not the simplest/cheapest option.

I also have a full set of DMM Brass Offsets on a separate biner which are only carried for specific routes. I don't find mixing them with the other styles very effective, others find different.
neuromancer - on 29 Apr 2014
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

Strikes me I would never want to place a peenut over a brassie.
Webster - on 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Oujmik:

DMM walnuts size 1-11 (plus torque nuts 1-4), doubled up with DMM peanuts and offsets (plus DMM micro-nuts size 00-0.75). That gives me a full double set of static protection from size 0.25-11, plus the 2 biggest torque nuts and 2 smallest micros extending the range, perfect!

I carry most of that on most routes from grit up to 11 pitch mountain routes.
alooker - on 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Oujmik:

Wallnuts, alloy offsets and brass offsets for me all racked on 3 biners. More often than not the brassies will seat much better than the other small nuts I have.

I also have a set of rocks which I add/subtract depending on where I'm climbing.

Definitely recommend offsets next though, they're brilliant especially for millstone peg scars and funky placements. You do have to be aware that they might not be as solid as they look, you can only see the outer edge when they're in after all so have a play around on the floor, you soon get an eye for what goes best where.
The Ex-Engineer - on 29 Apr 2014
In reply to neuromancer:
> Strikes me I would never want to place a peenut over a brassie.

That's odd. I'd pretty much always take a decent Peenut 4 or 5 (or Wallnut 1-3) placement, if one is available, over using a soldered brass nut .

Swaged aluminium nuts, especially DMM ones in 7075 alloy, are much less prone to failure by pulling through, are more durable and generally easier to remove, especially if weighted.

That said, I will concede you may have a point as regards the Peenut 3. It has 2.0mm diameter wire whereas other alternatives have 2.5mm wire and have a higher theoretical strength. As I've already stated, I don't use Peenuts 1 & 2 for a variety of reason.
ianstevens - on 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Webster:

> DMM walnuts size 1-11 (plus torque nuts 1-4), doubled up with DMM peanuts and offsets (plus DMM micro-nuts size 00-0.75).

How on earth do you ever get up anything carrying all that?

Pesonally, I go for 1-11 Wallnuts, and a full compliment of alloy and brass offsets. There is no gap between them, that's why the biggest brass offset is number 6 and the smallest alloy offset is a 7. I also have two size 4's, but that's through accident (read: swag) rather than design.

If I'm on a grit route I'll scale that down to just wallnuts, and if I can get a handle on what I need from the bottom, probably not even a full set.

Hexes are just a waste of space/weight and cause significant ear damage, it's the 21st century, just use some cams (nb: touchpaper lit...).

The Ex-Engineer:

Really? Peenuts over brass nuts? As I'm sure you're aware, the brass is soft and deforms. The ally is less soft, and less deformable. So in a non-perfect placement, its more likely the rock will 'reshape' the brass nut to fit, and it will stay in. The harder alloy of the peenut is less malleable, and can exert huge forces on tiny bits of rock - possibly resulting in their failure and subsequent appearance of your previously placed nut in your hand. In terms of kN rating, brass nuts are the same as peenuts (equivalent sizes) if not stronger.
climbwhenready - on 29 Apr 2014
In reply to ianstevens:
> How on earth do you ever get up anything carrying all that?

...

> Hexes are just a waste of space/weight and cause significant ear damage, it's the 21st century, just use some cams (nb: touchpaper lit...).

So a back of the envelope calculation puts torque nuts + peanuts + offsets + micro nuts at significantly less than a set of cams..... just sayin', like.

EDIT: and also probably about the same as a windproof.
Post edited at 20:22
Webster - on 30 Apr 2014
In reply to ianstevens:

> How on earth do you ever get up anything carrying all that?

the same way anybody else does, by climbing...by the sounds of it our racks are fairly like for like (brass vs peanuts) the only difference being you carry cams instead of hexes, which are much heavier, therefore your statement is somewhat bizzare?

> Hexes are just a waste of space/weight and cause significant ear damage, it's the 21st century, just use some cams (nb: touchpaper lit...).

a well placed hex/torque nut is by far the most reliable (and maybe more importantly reasuring!) gear placement around, except maybe a big fat thread. This notion that cams should have replaced hexes is just bollocks, they serve different purposes. but a torque nut will will fit where most cams (of that size) would fit, whereas there are plenty of hex placements where a cam would be unsuitable...
The Ex-Engineer - on 30 Apr 2014
In reply to ianstevens:
> its more likely the rock will 'reshape' the brass nut to fit, and it will stay in. The harder alloy of the peenut is less malleable, and can exert huge forces on tiny bits of rock - possibly resulting in their failure and subsequent appearance of your previously placed nut in your hand.

Conversely, due to a low contact area and high pressures the brass nut may deform sufficiently to pull right through the placement where as the alloy nut may not deform as much and hold.

However, my point was never that brass aren't superb kit in certain placements, but merely that I will start by trying to place a (durable) alloy nut, and only if I am not happy with that will I look at placing a (less durable) brass nut.
Merlin - on 30 Apr 2014
In reply to Oujmik:

BD stoppers are very nice...
neuromancer - on 30 Apr 2014
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

For an ex-engineer, you sure have a funny idea of the malleability of hard solids.
kyaizawa - on 30 Apr 2014
In reply to Oujmik:

BD Stoppers all the way - I have a double set mixed with (multiple) sets of IMPS, though admittedly I rarely take all of it up any given climb. I like the shape and sizings of the Stoppers and of all the wires I've used (Wallnuts, Classic/Anodized/Superlight Rocks, Kong's Chocks, Camp Pro Nuts).

I dislike the more pronounced taper and curve of the wallnuts, finding they have a tendency to either get stuck or not seat as nicely, and also, not a fan of offsets - can't seem to get decent placements and haven't found them to be overly confidence inspiring.

However, this is a) entirely personal preference and b) heavily dependent on what you rock climb, where and how hard.

Lastly, I'm not convinced by having two different sets of wires - given that I have a preferred set, I figured I would rather have doubles of sizes, than try fiddle in a less unfamiliar or less preferred wire, carried just for the sake of "variety".
MikeStuart26 on 30 Apr 2014
In reply to Blackmud:

When we go climbing in May we'll use my gear :P
ads.ukclimbing.com
Blackmud on 30 Apr 2014
In reply to MikeStuart26:

Only as long as we use my second hand rope :)

Ian: What are you on about? Hexes on rope are a gift from the Gods. Really big, heavy ones, that give you a dead leg as you climb. There's nothing more satisfying than finding a perfect placement for the seagull crusher.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3830/13307385685_c8aafe6e50_k.jpg

Where are my Ron Hills?

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