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I've just ordered a copy of the recent book about Pete Livesey, Fast and Free, after reading an excerpt by John Long in the US magazine Rock and Ice. It's a typical great Long tall tale, so if the rest of the book is as good, it should be an excellent read. The Rock and Ice article includes the classic photo "You too can have a body like mine", which always raises a laugh.
But I haven't seen much mention of the book on UKC - the only recent one I found was a post by Geoff Radcliffe in March about the book launch, though I missed that at the time. I'm surprised the issue of the book did not trigger a lot of reminiscences.
(I have posted this under Rocktalk, not Culture Bunker where it would be less likely to be read!)
But I haven't seen much mention of the book on UKC - the only recent one I found was a post by Geoff Radcliffe in March about the book launch, though I missed that at the time. I'm surprised the issue of the book did not trigger a lot of reminiscences.
(I have posted this under Rocktalk, not Culture Bunker where it would be less likely to be read!)
In reply to Rob Davies:
I've got it and I'm just about halfway through. Some great anecdotes. A job well done by John Sheard and Rad. I do wonder however if a lot of the younger UKCers have heard of Livesey...?
I've got it and I'm just about halfway through. Some great anecdotes. A job well done by John Sheard and Rad. I do wonder however if a lot of the younger UKCers have heard of Livesey...?
In reply to jon:
I was going to order this but the price at 20 quid seemed a bit steep. Do you reckon it's worth it?
I was going to order this but the price at 20 quid seemed a bit steep. Do you reckon it's worth it?
In reply to jon:
A complicated character who provoked some interesting responses from those who came across him! Or who he crossed....
But a seriously influential climber who really made a mark on the climbing scene; and not just in the UK
Maybe UKC could serialise books like this akin to their 'Friday vid'. A sort of climbing 'book at bedtime'?
A complicated character who provoked some interesting responses from those who came across him! Or who he crossed....
But a seriously influential climber who really made a mark on the climbing scene; and not just in the UK
Maybe UKC could serialise books like this akin to their 'Friday vid'. A sort of climbing 'book at bedtime'?
In reply to andyathome:
If it really was a serialisation rather than simply a tempting extract, I'm sure the amount the publisher would charge would be totally prohibitive. Yours and the previous post seem suggest that publishers are non-profit-making charitable organisations. I imagine with the Livesey book the profit margins are very tight indeed.
> Maybe UKC could serialise books like this akin to their 'Friday vid'. A sort of climbing 'book at bedtime'?
If it really was a serialisation rather than simply a tempting extract, I'm sure the amount the publisher would charge would be totally prohibitive. Yours and the previous post seem suggest that publishers are non-profit-making charitable organisations. I imagine with the Livesey book the profit margins are very tight indeed.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Sorry. I actually meant 'teaser' extracts to raise awareness and promote the book, Gordon. I do recognise that many folks who put their efforts into books are not charities
Sorry. I actually meant 'teaser' extracts to raise awareness and promote the book, Gordon. I do recognise that many folks who put their efforts into books are not charities
In reply to andyathome:
Well, all you're going to get at most (for a new book) is one short teaser extract.
Well, all you're going to get at most (for a new book) is one short teaser extract.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Actually in this case it is effectively a non profit publisher as all profits from the sales of the book go to the Take Heart charity. As for the book it's a fascinating read and well worth getting.
Actually in this case it is effectively a non profit publisher as all profits from the sales of the book go to the Take Heart charity. As for the book it's a fascinating read and well worth getting.
In reply to Rob Davies:
Pete is on the right of frame
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=107820
Pete is on the right of frame
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=107820
In reply to Al Evans:
Great Photo Al. can you put names to everyone else?
> Pete is on the right of frame
Great Photo Al. can you put names to everyone else?
In reply to Pekkie:
Yes! I think the price is comparable with most other hardbacks eg echos etc, however I think £30 for the new peak bouldering guide is a bit much, obviously a lot of effort gone into it but still expensive for a guide book, anyway thats a separate issue!
Yes! I think the price is comparable with most other hardbacks eg echos etc, however I think £30 for the new peak bouldering guide is a bit much, obviously a lot of effort gone into it but still expensive for a guide book, anyway thats a separate issue!
In reply to Rob Davies: Thanx for the shout on this, completely missed that this had been released. Ta muchley
In reply to Al Evans:
"Nicky Stokes (the best climber)" - quite a statement given that line-up.
I don't know anything about him - care to elaborate?
"Nicky Stokes (the best climber)" - quite a statement given that line-up.
I don't know anything about him - care to elaborate?
In reply to pasbury:
He climbed mostly with Bancroft and Allen, they both reckoned he was better than them but just really lazy
> "Nicky Stokes (the best climber)" - quite a statement given that line-up.
> I don't know anything about him - care to elaborate?
He climbed mostly with Bancroft and Allen, they both reckoned he was better than them but just really lazy
In reply to Rob Davies:
Seems like this is not the Pete Livesey biography that I heard someone was working on a few years ago. Anyone know what happened to that?
Seems like this is not the Pete Livesey biography that I heard someone was working on a few years ago. Anyone know what happened to that?
In reply to steve.aisthorpe:
or maybe it is the biography
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2368294/PETE-LIVESEY-BIOGRAPHY
or maybe it is the biography
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2368294/PETE-LIVESEY-BIOGRAPHY
In reply to Pekkie:
Odd format for the book but great tales of a yesteryear. Really enjoyed what was cutting edge stuff at the time - and still commands respect with the gear and attitudes of the time and the acheivements.
Very focus and able guy.
Really only met him (and Jill Lawrence) once on the crag at Bowfell on Sword of Damocles as they were doing a round of Langdale with routes on Neckband, Bowfell and Gimmer.
Odd format for the book but great tales of a yesteryear. Really enjoyed what was cutting edge stuff at the time - and still commands respect with the gear and attitudes of the time and the acheivements.
Very focus and able guy.
Really only met him (and Jill Lawrence) once on the crag at Bowfell on Sword of Damocles as they were doing a round of Langdale with routes on Neckband, Bowfell and Gimmer.
In reply to Ron Kenyon:
Saw him in action a few times eg at Tremadoc and used to go to his cafe at Malham. Loved his essay Travels with a Donkey (Never let the truth get in the way of a good story...) Yup, I'll order the book!
Saw him in action a few times eg at Tremadoc and used to go to his cafe at Malham. Loved his essay Travels with a Donkey (Never let the truth get in the way of a good story...) Yup, I'll order the book!
In reply to Pekkie:
I think his Astroman essay is the best. His description of Ron following the Harding Slot is classic: "I could hear him talking to it... 'yer little bastard, yer little bastard' he said repeatedly.
I think his Astroman essay is the best. His description of Ron following the Harding Slot is classic: "I could hear him talking to it... 'yer little bastard, yer little bastard' he said repeatedly.
In reply to Rob Davies:
I have a "How to Climb" book by Livesey from the 70s. Or maybe the early 80s. I treasure it, partly because my Dad bought it for me, and partly because the photos of models doing what you are supposed to do are so bad they are comical. The 70s really was the decade that style forgot, as proved not only by my book but by any photos of Abba in their stage gear.
I have a "How to Climb" book by Livesey from the 70s. Or maybe the early 80s. I treasure it, partly because my Dad bought it for me, and partly because the photos of models doing what you are supposed to do are so bad they are comical. The 70s really was the decade that style forgot, as proved not only by my book but by any photos of Abba in their stage gear.
In reply to CPH:
No there was another book about Pete in process about 7 years ago ... another guy (neither of the editors/compilers of this book) who was interviewing many folk from that era with a view to writing a full biography. Anyone know what happened to that?
No there was another book about Pete in process about 7 years ago ... another guy (neither of the editors/compilers of this book) who was interviewing many folk from that era with a view to writing a full biography. Anyone know what happened to that?
In reply to jon:
Pete abruptly left climbing in 1980, partly as a reaction to the emerging appearance of 'sport' climbing. One of the major reasons for embarking on FAST and FREE was the concern that his massive contribution to world rock climbing would be lost to future generations who might become increasingly distanced to the roots and traditions of the great game. Pete's importance can be summarised in Joe Brown's words recently published in the BMC's SUMMIT magazine - "Pete Crewe came along in the 1950's and declared that he intended to burn me off ... But, interestingly, in Crewe's time, the standard never went beyond what I had done. Thing's didn't move on until Pete Livesey did Right Wall. I looked at that and thought, that's something." Come to think of it, the new generation of 'sport climbers' may not have heard of Brown either? That would be sad (and very worrying).
Pete abruptly left climbing in 1980, partly as a reaction to the emerging appearance of 'sport' climbing. One of the major reasons for embarking on FAST and FREE was the concern that his massive contribution to world rock climbing would be lost to future generations who might become increasingly distanced to the roots and traditions of the great game. Pete's importance can be summarised in Joe Brown's words recently published in the BMC's SUMMIT magazine - "Pete Crewe came along in the 1950's and declared that he intended to burn me off ... But, interestingly, in Crewe's time, the standard never went beyond what I had done. Thing's didn't move on until Pete Livesey did Right Wall. I looked at that and thought, that's something." Come to think of it, the new generation of 'sport climbers' may not have heard of Brown either? That would be sad (and very worrying).
In reply to jmsheard:
As I said above John, a great job by you two. I've just finished it and I was surprised by the lack of input by Alec. Out of interest, did Rob Seymour abandon his book?
As I said above John, a great job by you two. I've just finished it and I was surprised by the lack of input by Alec. Out of interest, did Rob Seymour abandon his book?
In reply to jmsheard:
They're probably too busy placing bolts to read books about old-timers.
I have now received my copy and it looks excellent. Because of the mix or writers it seems, at first sight, to be a more entertaining read than any of the recent biographies (Fawcett, Dawes, Moffatt). And it's good to have Livesey's own pieces collected like this - he raised taking the piss to an art-form!
They're probably too busy placing bolts to read books about old-timers.
I have now received my copy and it looks excellent. Because of the mix or writers it seems, at first sight, to be a more entertaining read than any of the recent biographies (Fawcett, Dawes, Moffatt). And it's good to have Livesey's own pieces collected like this - he raised taking the piss to an art-form!
In reply to jmsheard:
Actually talked to some boulderers on Froggatt, who were doing Joe's Direct Start to Slab Recess, or whatever the current name is. They had no idea who Brown was, or Don Whillans!
History is fading and soon only the here and now will be important.
Yes! I am old, but I enjoy the history of any activity or subject.
Actually talked to some boulderers on Froggatt, who were doing Joe's Direct Start to Slab Recess, or whatever the current name is. They had no idea who Brown was, or Don Whillans!
History is fading and soon only the here and now will be important.
Yes! I am old, but I enjoy the history of any activity or subject.
In reply to johncook:
Makes me think that someone ought to begin capturing an oral history of this great game - a repository of interviews with those who are of advancing years but who have contributed significantly to rock climbing's history would be a great legacy for the future generations
Makes me think that someone ought to begin capturing an oral history of this great game - a repository of interviews with those who are of advancing years but who have contributed significantly to rock climbing's history would be a great legacy for the future generations
In reply to Greenbanks:
There are probably a lot more about than people realise, and the number is growing all the time.
With 'repository' though comes storage, administration, and a mechanism for delivery... and with those three things (and more) comes cost.
Phil
> (In reply to johncook)
>
> Makes me think that someone ought to begin capturing an oral history of this great game - a repository of interviews with those who are of advancing years but who have contributed significantly to rock climbing's history would be a great legacy for the future generations
>
> Makes me think that someone ought to begin capturing an oral history of this great game - a repository of interviews with those who are of advancing years but who have contributed significantly to rock climbing's history would be a great legacy for the future generations
There are probably a lot more about than people realise, and the number is growing all the time.
With 'repository' though comes storage, administration, and a mechanism for delivery... and with those three things (and more) comes cost.
Phil
In reply to BlownAway:
Phil I was going to suggest you/your excellent site but i couldnt find any recordings.
perhaps a worthy project for the BMC to host, fund, co-ordinate ? hosting cost wouldnt be very expensive these days but does need to be factored in ....
Phil I was going to suggest you/your excellent site but i couldnt find any recordings.
perhaps a worthy project for the BMC to host, fund, co-ordinate ? hosting cost wouldnt be very expensive these days but does need to be factored in ....
In reply to BlownAway:
Agreed. Just in the Lakes and going back to the 1980s I can think of nearly twenty and that's without including the Yorkshire raiders.
Agreed. Just in the Lakes and going back to the 1980s I can think of nearly twenty and that's without including the Yorkshire raiders.
In reply to lithos:
Hi
There are no recordings on the rockarchivist(.co.uk) site these days; just links to a range of new route books (and 5 more to come very soon - Moorland Rambler x2, Al Parker's shop in Glossop, and 2 from Joe Royle's shop in Buxton)
Phil
Hi
There are no recordings on the rockarchivist(.co.uk) site these days; just links to a range of new route books (and 5 more to come very soon - Moorland Rambler x2, Al Parker's shop in Glossop, and 2 from Joe Royle's shop in Buxton)
Phil
In reply to johncook:
I started in around 69', yet I still knew about Kirkus, Menlove Edwards, Harding etc.
We're seeing a generation who seem quite happy to have little knowledge of history - or very little pre Sport climbing. I suppose coming generations will be equally happy to have no knowledge of anything pre Facebook
> Actually talked to some boulderers on Froggatt, who were doing Joe's Direct Start to Slab Recess, or whatever the current name is. They had no idea who Brown was, or Don Whillans!
I started in around 69', yet I still knew about Kirkus, Menlove Edwards, Harding etc.
We're seeing a generation who seem quite happy to have little knowledge of history - or very little pre Sport climbing. I suppose coming generations will be equally happy to have no knowledge of anything pre Facebook
In reply to Pekkie: reviews can also be found at footlesscrow.blogspot.com and in the June issue of Climb magazine for anyone deliberating the merits of this book.
In reply to ernst:
Got it, read it, enjoyed it. Left this review on Amazon:
This is a timely book that will slot neatly into your bookshelf next to 'Ron Fawcett - Rock Athlete'. When I started climbing in the early 70s Livesey was an inspiration. I can still remember the furore and acclaim when he did the first ascents of Right Wall in North Wales and Footless Crow in the Lakes. both game-changing steps forward. The book has some great essays and stories - check Livesey's own hilarious tale 'Travels with a Donkey' - and some great photos. Recommended
Got it, read it, enjoyed it. Left this review on Amazon:
This is a timely book that will slot neatly into your bookshelf next to 'Ron Fawcett - Rock Athlete'. When I started climbing in the early 70s Livesey was an inspiration. I can still remember the furore and acclaim when he did the first ascents of Right Wall in North Wales and Footless Crow in the Lakes. both game-changing steps forward. The book has some great essays and stories - check Livesey's own hilarious tale 'Travels with a Donkey' - and some great photos. Recommended
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