/ First E3 Llanberis Pass

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Owen W-G - on 01 May 2014
Dervish is obviously on the radar but can I have some recommendations for E3s in the pass to fixate on this year.

Foil and Stroll on both look great but seem a bit top end.

Safe with decent rests would suit me

Thanks
Jon Stewart - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Can't help with the Pass, but since it's always wet, worth bearing in mind that Rhoscolyn is a brilliant place for single-pitch E3 with good holds and gear.
Owen W-G - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Oh yeah, Centrefold needs to get led.
Bob on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Stroll On is pumpy and no real rest until you are just below the belay having done all the hard climbing. Foil is hard. Both are top end E3.

Left Wall with direct finish
Windmill
Rembrandt's Pussy Horse
Pulsar (Sacred Idol at E4 isn't that much harder though!)
nawface - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Left Wall Direct is great. Gets E3 5c.

Not in the pass but the E3 on the Idwal slabs is well worth it. Can't remember the name but on the right hand side.
Bob on 01 May 2014
In reply to nawface:

Demetrius? Or are you meaning something on Suicide Wall?
Bulls Crack - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Again not the Pass but why limit yourself?!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=65543. Foil is less pumpy than Stroll On as I recall.
wynaptomos - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

I'd second Pulsar and Sacred Idol.

Also Stairway to Heaven and Lubyanka, if you like bold climbing then they can seem reasonable for the grade.
Coel Hellier - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Goose Creature on the slate, soft-E3 (one hard section next to bolts). Probably more like E2 6a.

Memory Lane hasn't been mentioned yet.
GeoffRadcliffe - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Coel Hellier:
> Memory Lane hasn't been mentioned yet.

Although the climbing is not particularly hard on Memory Lane, it is bold and the OP wanted
"Safe with decent rests would suit me".

Post edited at 14:43
johncoxmysteriously - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Memory Lane's low in the grade but not really "safe with good rests". It's not easy to think of a low-end, safe E3 with good rests in the Pass. Quasar would fit the bill well apart from being desperate, for example.

jcm
johncoxmysteriously - on 01 May 2014
In reply to nawface:

Homicide Wall?

jcm
AlanLittle - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Coel Hellier:

> Goose Creature on the slate, soft-E3 (one hard section next to bolts). Probably more like E2 6a.

More like a 6b+ sport climb

Melok - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Zeta , good route.
Si dH - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

I did foil as a fairly early e3 because I was so psyched by it. Gear is good, not many rests but you just need a bit of endurance on small crimps for a few moves. If you do any sport climbing it'll be steady.
Mike Highbury - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G: Of a few of those suggested: Left Wall direct is a bit pointless because you have done LH already; I've a suspicion that you will find Foil difficult; but Stroll On should suit you fine.

mfisher - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Coel Hellier:

Completely agree, Goose Creature was just my second E3 and you can't get much safer than that
Owen W-G - on 01 May 2014
In reply to mfisher:

I had a look at Goose Creature once. Bottled it before I got to the first bolt. Doesn't boost my E3 credentials really does it?
nawface - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Bob:

Demetrius, that's the badger. Good route. I'd also second people saying to get to Rhoscolyn. If you're breaking into E3 then get on E3 5c's if you're finding E3 6a a bit hard as those routes will help make the step up.
spidermonkey09 - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:
Take new shoes on the Dervish- polished! Goose Creature is a good shout, don't blow the start though...
Silly Arete doesn't feel safe when you're on it but is absolutely incredible. I did it as my first E3 but I'm not sure I'd recommend doing that- scared the hell out of me!
This thread is turning into a list of just good E3's now though which is probably more useful.
Post edited at 16:05
Jonny2vests - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:
+1 for Rhoscolyn.

You might also like to try Plumbline at the Orme, some of the nuts on that are as good as any bolt. And I really like Strike at Gogarth, loads of gear, pumpy but with good rests if you find them.
Post edited at 16:23
Bob on 01 May 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

Pipeline? Do you mean Plumbline? Agree it's a good route though.
Alun - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Goose Creature is about uk 4c to the first bolt. Personally I don't think it warrants E3 (and maybe not even E2).

I agree with jcm, the pass is not full of E3s in the style you want. Rhoscolyn and Gogarth might be more interesting for you.
Rick Graham on 01 May 2014
In reply to Alun:

As a first E3, surprised nobody has mentioned the Stebbing (E3 5b , on the UKC logbooks ). At least he gets a tick but some people rate it as HVS !

I was confused by it last year but apparently there is an easy and a hard way/ variation.
Terry James Walker - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G: So here's a few in my opinion not to do...
Quasar - grochan
Brute 33 - wastad
El Guide Direct - cwm glas
Bulls Crack - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Terry James Walker:

Quasar eh as a first E3 in the Pass?
Bob on 01 May 2014
In reply to Terry James Walker:

Hmm, I wouldn't have said any of those are suitable for a first E3.
Mick Ward - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

> You might also like to try Plumbline at the Orme, some of the nuts on that are as good as any bolt.

Good call. As I recall, you could just drop gear into it. (As long as nothing significant has changed), as safe as it gets and pretty easy (for the grade).

Mick
jezb1 - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Bob:

> Hmm, I wouldn't have said any of those are suitable for a first E3.

He says, "not to do".
jezb1 - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

You mention Dervish, if you've done stuff like Pull My Daisy, Dervish is pretty straight forward, just a bold, very polished start.
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Bob on 01 May 2014
In reply to jezb1:

Oops! We are in agreement then.
kyaizawa - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

A soft E3 would be See You Bruce (E3 5b) in the Skyline area of Australia - airy feeling but bolted and safe. Not sure Goose Creature is that soft - though super safe, I found the crux sequence from the bolt to the jug really hard.
steve taylor - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Anything on slate - it's all very soft touch.
Cardi - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:
The Sun at Rhoscolyn was my first and only E3 (if it really is E3!)
Post edited at 23:23
PeakDJ on 02 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

I'd recommend foil. Great moves and more bomber gear that anyone could need. Some good shake outs on jugs between the tricky sections. Not that hard for e3 if you have seven fitness.
Jonny2vests - on 02 May 2014
In reply to PeakDJ:

Seven fitness? That's quite a lot Dave, does yours go up to eleven?
silo - on 02 May 2014
In reply to Owen W-G: Go for the foil! loads of pro, just climb steady.


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