UKC

injured shoulder

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 James91 01 May 2014
Hello all, I was just wondering if anyone on here has ever had a problem with repetitive shoulder dislocation, and if so have you managed to get if fixed satisfactorily for climbing? Just going through the whole hospital process at the moment with it and I am curious of my options really. An idea of recovery process time would also be handy! Thanks
 Gromit :D 01 May 2014
In reply to James91:

Yes, had around 20 dislocations by the time it got fixed!
Fixed up fine for climbing (and kayaking every day) but its worth mentioning to the surgeon that's what you want to do. And repeat it till you're blue in the face to the physio, otherwise you could end up getting fobbed off with simply being 'functional'(can get dressed, lift a kettle, drive!).
I found the overhead movements the ones that took longest to a)come back and b)get strong again - Much longer than all the other ROM.

Back to easy climbing - ie slabs/no big dynamic pulling moves or small holds - by six months. Possibly could of been sooner but the fear of going too hard too soon and ending up back at square one was enough to make me be patient.

If surgery is definitely happening its worth getting some physio before-hand to make everything around the damaged stuff as strong as possible. They guy who did mine reckons that played a huge part in how quick it recovered. Obvs age plays a massive part too.

Its a pretty long, tedious time but well worth it, 98% of the time I can't tell the difference between the fixed one and the other one now.
 Dandan 01 May 2014
In reply to James91:

Mine only dislocated 5 times before I got it fixed but I would agree with everything said above.

I had a bankarts (sp) repair, my labrum was torn from 1-6 o'clock (quite extensive) but luckily no bone has chipped off.

That was 10 months ago now, i'm back to a couple of grades below my previous best (7c+) and I have had absolutely zero trouble with the shoulder, I've had more issues from other body parts!
My range of movement is a little limited but always improving.
I followed the physio to the letter and even went to see a private physio as well as the NHS one and I can full recommend following their advice.

Good Luck!
OP James91 01 May 2014
In reply to James91:

Thanks to both of you for the replies, will be paying lots of attention to the physio then!! Unfortunately I seem to have chipped some bone off a while ago which complicates it, and both shoulders are affected, but tbh if it gets better than it currently is I will be very happy! cheers again
 koalapie 05 May 2014
In reply to James91:

You need to see a specialist (doctor or physio) who deals with shoulders and sports. Don't get this dealt with in the NHS unless it's at the national royal orthopaedic hospital, unless you are absolutely sure the people who are looking after you specialise in shoulders and sport.
OP James91 06 May 2014
In reply to koalapie:

Thanks for the input, I am seeing a shoulder specialist tomorrow. I am not sure if they specialise in sport as well but will find out. I may be able to go through a different channel if they don't so it is a good point. Also kind of hoping the original doctors got the diagnosis wrong!

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