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Topic - Bolts at Marian Bach

Rob Davies - on 04 May 2014
I visited a newly developed limestone crag - natural, I think, almost like a small-scale version of Craig y Forwen - near Castle Inn yesterday and was pleased to experience yet another new location for sport climbing in the area. Not big, but worth a visit. So I'm grateful to the guys who have put in the time, effort and expense to equip the routes.

But I thought that a couple of the routes that had bolts right next to good cracks were outside anything I've experienced in the UK - even if you came across them in Spain they would raise some eyebrows. One is a typical limestone corner with a good crack at the back (given 5, maybe S 4a with gear), the other a crack up a wall (given 5+, maybe VS 4c with gear).

Is there a consensus amongst UK climbers now that it's OK to bolt lines on new limestone crags even where they would be easy to protect with gear?

These two lines have not yet been named, according to UKC. I suggest "The Thick End of the Wedge" would be appropriate!

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