In reply to LJC:
Do you know what, I think Chee Tor would be an excellent place to go, for a few reasons:
- It's great. Beautiful place, quality rock
- There are loads of high quality, well protected 6a routes (E3-5) that are long and sustained enough to make satisfying headpoints (finding protected grit routes that aren't just a hard move or two and stand up to the headpointing without being completely trivialised is tricky)
- They have lower-offs at the top and a big VS traverse linking all the lower-offs so you can reach them from other routes and ab down to clean them, work moves, etc.
I haven't done the 6as, and they will need a clean (but so what if you're working them). The classics are:
- Queer Street. Top end E3, probably nails, strenuous fingery laybacking on the crux I think
- Splintered Perspex. Another E3/4.
- Mortlock's Arete. Classic/historical E4. Two pitches, top one may be harder to work but P1 is 6a (although possibly not E4, not sure).
- Apocalypse. Don't know anything about it, but E4 6a***
Then there's a load of classic E5 6b if those are too easy.
If you haven't been, it's a really superb crag that has (mainly for guidebook-related reasons?) fallen rather into disuse, and it gets a bit dirty. You might be a little put off at first by the dandelions growing out of the crag, but don't be: once you start climbing the routes, you'll soon realise that the place is amazing: very involving, sustained, technical wall climbing with excellent gear and the occasional exciting run-out about bomber wires. What more could you want?