/ PRODUCT NEWS: New Rockfax Guidebook to The Dolomites
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=6330
I have to say that this looks amazing and am especially impressed by James Rushforths photographs, really shows the Dolomites true colours. Well done and I will be saving my pennies for this!
Looks like a great book to a great area, but rockfax is a big format for multi pitch / VF? Is there any way to provide an electronic version without it being pirated or do we still need to photocopy?
I normally use a photo on my phone / camera which normally works unless the sun is bright.
Back to the guidebook, looks good. Definitely sticking to the uiaa grades for the trad routes?
Yes it will be a big book. We normally advise taking photos on your phone to carry on the route, however this time we will be releasing the app version at the same time anyway (hopefully) so you can choose whether to buy the book, the App, or a bit of both (maybe book, with the odd App crag for the longer routes).
Phone App sounds exciting. Will it be bundled with the book, or will I have to buy both separately? Really hope it's out in time for my trip towards the end of August, but it sounds unlikely...
Looks really good. The Dolomites could certainly do with a guide book of this type. Out of interest, how much route checking went into the guide? Some of the topos and route descriptions in the current Dolomites guidebooks are sometimes a bit misleading and/or inadequate (for me at least!). It would be great to know that these issues have been rectified so that you can be confident you're not about to be led off route onto some adjacent choss fest!
The App will be sold separately but you will be able to buy individual crags at the common low App prices - £1.49 etc. I'll have more details of pricing later.
Well done to all involved. This was really needed.
Hope it sells well.
Thanks for all the positive comments.
Mike - Definitely sticking to the UIAA grades for a number of reasons. It's the grading system that's most commonly used in the area and the grades have naturally taken a while to get balanced as they're debated back and forth.
Converting them to an English grading system would be very complex because, as I'm sure you know, the vast majority of Dolomites trad routes contain a lot of in-situ gear. Some of the crux pitches (particularly those which used to be old aid routes) are filled with pegs of varying quality. This makes it difficult to state how protected said route is at any one time, as an E1 5b route might become an E2 5b route if someone decided to strip a load of the pegs.
Finally the grades also have a nice historic significance (or at least I think so). For example a number of Dolomites routes were instrumental in Messner's 'The 7th Grade' (though admittedly some of them have now been downgraded).
For the top end routes we've included a sport grade as well as the UIAA grade, as this is becoming an increasingly popular and useful point of reference. For example Huber's 'Pan Aroma' is XI-/8c, however it is not a sport route and the second grade is given merely as a useful indicator for climbers operating at that level.
Duncan - Every effort has been made to ensure the book is as accurate as possible. Any routes not done by myself or Lynne have been taken directly from someone with good knowledge of the route, and then checked against existing descriptions and topos for accuracy.
However as I'm sure you’re aware, many variations exist, even on classic routes. For example the Kasnapoff route on the second Sella tower can be climbed via five different variations. It is possible for 2 parties climbing on the same day on that particular route to only climb 2 or 3 pitches in common.
Where this is the case, the alternatives have been highlighted in as much detail as possible, and the most logical route described.
I would finally like to stress the point that this project has been a real team effort, with many friends and colleagues in the area offering fantastic support and guidance.
Looks brilliant, looking forward to seeing it in print.
looks the Bees Knees ,but did I see no Pala Group in there or am I mistaken
I have seen a couple of people strip a load of old pegs. Not sure that that was the motivation behind their respective lobs though :-)
Thanks. Alas no Pala or Brenta Groups. Geographically they're a little way apart and we had to draw a line somewhere, it is already a very large book.
If there was sufficient interest I'm sure an app download could be arranged in the future.
would be interesting to see how many Brits have climbed in the Pala over the years with it being apart ,we first went in 1967 ..
I've only done one route in the Pala - the Scarf Arete obvsly - but was much impressed with the area and will definitely be back. Pretty much all the locals we spoke to anywhere in the Dolomites said the Wiessner-Kees on the Sass d'Ortiga is an absolute must-do. And I so much want to do Perla Nera on the Cima dei Lastei, it sounds amazing.
(The town of San Martino otoh is even more horrible than Cortina)
I know UKC isn't a fair test, but the South Arete of Sass de Stria has twice as many logged climbs as the entire Pala Dolomites.
But part of the Pala's charm is the peace and quiet... (San Martino aside)
Some excellent climbing though, no disputes there.
Could this be to do with Brits being tight about spending money on huts? Pala walk-ins tend to be a bit big for doing routes from the valley in a day, as is normal elsewhere in the Dolomites.
An ambitious project - good luck !
What about Civetta? Looks a beautiful book though.
Have to say I am well excited about this guide James - your photos are fantastic!!
Cannot wait to a) get my hands on the finished guide and b) get out to the Dolomites and use it!
Looks fantastic, I'm going on 17th July, any chance either the paper or electronic copy would be available by then?
Looks great, Brenta and Pala for Volume II?
Would be great to have a full colour topo.
Small point - it looks like the total route length isn't included after the route name, so you have to add up individual pitch lengths. Of course in many cases the number of pitches will be a good indicator but it's conventional to include route length even for Alpine stuff. Obviously for anything longer than a few pitches it would be sensible to round to the nearest 50 or 100 metres.
Looks like a good book, wouldn't buy the apps though if I'd already bought the book. I'd feel a bit cheated buying an expensive book then having to buy each crag to have on my phone.
I am aware the book is still in production but in recent rockfax guides we have had markers on the topos to give an idea of the length of the routes. These may still to be added.
I can confirm that these are being added in the finishing stages of the book.
Thanks again for all the positive feedback.
Robin - It's doubtful the book will be ready for then.
Forcan - Thanks. Civetta is not included in the guide.
The Ivanator - If there is enough demand then maybe a phone app version could be considered.
Misha - As Chris and Alan have said it will of course be included in the completed pages.
Looks incredible, but I don't see Sassolungo on there - is this included?
Thanks very much.
Sassolungo is not included. Much like Civetta, the routes tend to be a bit more 'adventurous' than many of the surrounding areas. You could quite happily sink 40 pages into both and still only scratch the surface.
If there's sufficient space I think I'd rather get Sass Dlacia and / or the Passo Giau (Lastoni di Formin and Croda da Lago) in.
Again there many be chance to cover Civetta and Sassolungo in to a future app. Currently running on the upper page limit - on the plus side it will make the start moves of Via Maria on Sass Pordoi easier...
This Guide could even make the Dollies Popular !!
fantastic looking book! good work, must have have been a mammoth task!
Elsewhere on the site
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more
The release of Peter Jackson's new film The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies on 12th December may not appear to link to... Read more
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more