/ PRODUCT NEWS: New Rockfax Guidebook to The Dolomites

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Rockfax Dolomites : Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata cover, 4 kbThis summer Rockfax will be publishing a big new book to the magnificent Dolomites in northern Italy. This guide will cover everything you need for a climbing trip regardless of ability, whether it be sport, trad, via ferrata or a combination of all three.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=6330
colinthrelfall - on 09 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

I have to say that this looks amazing and am especially impressed by James Rushforths photographs, really shows the Dolomites true colours. Well done and I will be saving my pennies for this!
stevieb - on 09 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

Looks like a great book to a great area, but rockfax is a big format for multi pitch / VF? Is there any way to provide an electronic version without it being pirated or do we still need to photocopy?
prog99 on 09 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:
I normally use a photo on my phone / camera which normally works unless the sun is bright.
Back to the guidebook, looks good. Definitely sticking to the uiaa grades for the trad routes?
Post edited at 11:31
In reply to stevieb:

> Looks like a great book to a great area, but rockfax is a big format for multi pitch / VF? Is there any way to provide an electronic version without it being pirated or do we still need to photocopy?

Yes it will be a big book. We normally advise taking photos on your phone to carry on the route, however this time we will be releasing the app version at the same time anyway (hopefully) so you can choose whether to buy the book, the App, or a bit of both (maybe book, with the odd App crag for the longer routes).

Alan
bigbobbyking - on 09 May 2014
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH:

Phone App sounds exciting. Will it be bundled with the book, or will I have to buy both separately? Really hope it's out in time for my trip towards the end of August, but it sounds unlikely...
duncan b - on 09 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:
Looks really good. The Dolomites could certainly do with a guide book of this type. Out of interest, how much route checking went into the guide? Some of the topos and route descriptions in the current Dolomites guidebooks are sometimes a bit misleading and/or inadequate (for me at least!). It would be great to know that these issues have been rectified so that you can be confident you're not about to be led off route onto some adjacent choss fest!
Post edited at 12:20
In reply to bigbobbyking:

> Phone App sounds exciting. Will it be bundled with the book, or will I have to buy both separately?

The App will be sold separately but you will be able to buy individual crags at the common low App prices - £1.49 etc. I'll have more details of pricing later.

Alan
David Coley - on 09 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

Well done to all involved. This was really needed.

Hope it sells well.
James Rushforth - on 09 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

Thanks for all the positive comments.

Mike - Definitely sticking to the UIAA grades for a number of reasons. It's the grading system that's most commonly used in the area and the grades have naturally taken a while to get balanced as they're debated back and forth.

Converting them to an English grading system would be very complex because, as I'm sure you know, the vast majority of Dolomites trad routes contain a lot of in-situ gear. Some of the crux pitches (particularly those which used to be old aid routes) are filled with pegs of varying quality. This makes it difficult to state how protected said route is at any one time, as an E1 5b route might become an E2 5b route if someone decided to strip a load of the pegs.

Finally the grades also have a nice historic significance (or at least I think so). For example a number of Dolomites routes were instrumental in Messner's 'The 7th Grade' (though admittedly some of them have now been downgraded).

For the top end routes we've included a sport grade as well as the UIAA grade, as this is becoming an increasingly popular and useful point of reference. For example Huber's 'Pan Aroma' is XI-/8c, however it is not a sport route and the second grade is given merely as a useful indicator for climbers operating at that level.

Duncan - Every effort has been made to ensure the book is as accurate as possible. Any routes not done by myself or Lynne have been taken directly from someone with good knowledge of the route, and then checked against existing descriptions and topos for accuracy.

However as I'm sure you’re aware, many variations exist, even on classic routes. For example the Kasnapoff route on the second Sella tower can be climbed via five different variations. It is possible for 2 parties climbing on the same day on that particular route to only climb 2 or 3 pitches in common.

Where this is the case, the alternatives have been highlighted in as much detail as possible, and the most logical route described.

I would finally like to stress the point that this project has been a real team effort, with many friends and colleagues in the area offering fantastic support and guidance.
Dream - on 09 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

Looks brilliant, looking forward to seeing it in print.
victorclimber - on 09 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

looks the Bees Knees ,but did I see no Pala Group in there or am I mistaken
Andy Say - on 09 May 2014
In reply to James Rushforth:


> an E1 5b route might become an E2 5b route if someone decided to strip a load of the pegs.

I have seen a couple of people strip a load of old pegs. Not sure that that was the motivation behind their respective lobs though :-)
James Rushforth - on 09 May 2014
In reply to victorclimber:

Thanks. Alas no Pala or Brenta Groups. Geographically they're a little way apart and we had to draw a line somewhere, it is already a very large book.

If there was sufficient interest I'm sure an app download could be arranged in the future.
victorclimber - on 09 May 2014
In reply to James Rushforth:

would be interesting to see how many Brits have climbed in the Pala over the years with it being apart ,we first went in 1967 ..
AlanLittle - on 09 May 2014
In reply to victorclimber:
I've only done one route in the Pala - the Scarf Arete obvsly - but was much impressed with the area and will definitely be back. Pretty much all the locals we spoke to anywhere in the Dolomites said the Wiessner-Kees on the Sass d'Ortiga is an absolute must-do. And I so much want to do Perla Nera on the Cima dei Lastei, it sounds amazing.

(The town of San Martino otoh is even more horrible than Cortina)
Post edited at 15:58
James Rushforth - on 09 May 2014
In reply to victorclimber:

I know UKC isn't a fair test, but the South Arete of Sass de Stria has twice as many logged climbs as the entire Pala Dolomites.

But part of the Pala's charm is the peace and quiet... (San Martino aside)

Some excellent climbing though, no disputes there.
AlanLittle - on 09 May 2014
In reply to James Rushforth:
Could this be to do with Brits being tight about spending money on huts? Pala walk-ins tend to be a bit big for doing routes from the valley in a day, as is normal elsewhere in the Dolomites.
Post edited at 16:11
Erstwhile on 09 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

An ambitious project - good luck !
Forcan Reg - on 09 May 2014
In reply to James Rushforth:

What about Civetta? Looks a beautiful book though.
Duncan Campbell - on 09 May 2014
In reply to James Rushforth:

Have to say I am well excited about this guide James - your photos are fantastic!!

Cannot wait to a) get my hands on the finished guide and b) get out to the Dolomites and use it!

Dunc
Robin Brooke - on 09 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

Looks fantastic, I'm going on 17th July, any chance either the paper or electronic copy would be available by then?
The Ivanator - on 09 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

Looks great, Brenta and Pala for Volume II?
Misha - on 09 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

Would be great to have a full colour topo.

Small point - it looks like the total route length isn't included after the route name, so you have to add up individual pitch lengths. Of course in many cases the number of pitches will be a good indicator but it's conventional to include route length even for Alpine stuff. Obviously for anything longer than a few pitches it would be sensible to round to the nearest 50 or 100 metres.
jezb1 - on 10 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

Looks like a good book, wouldn't buy the apps though if I'd already bought the book. I'd feel a bit cheated buying an expensive book then having to buy each crag to have on my phone.



In reply to Misha:

> Small point - it looks like the total route length isn't included after the route name, so you have to add up individual pitch lengths. Of course in many cases the number of pitches will be a good indicator but it's conventional to include route length even for Alpine stuff. Obviously for anything longer than a few pitches it would be sensible to round to the nearest 50 or 100 metres.

I am aware the book is still in production but in recent rockfax guides we have had markers on the topos to give an idea of the length of the routes. These may still to be added.


Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:

> I am aware the book is still in production but in recent rockfax guides we have had markers on the topos to give an idea of the length of the routes. These may still to be added.

I can confirm that these are being added in the finishing stages of the book.

Alan
James Rushforth - on 10 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

Thanks again for all the positive feedback.

Robin - It's doubtful the book will be ready for then.
Forcan - Thanks. Civetta is not included in the guide.
The Ivanator - If there is enough demand then maybe a phone app version could be considered.
Misha - As Chris and Alan have said it will of course be included in the completed pages.
Rampikino - on 10 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

Hi guys,

Looks incredible, but I don't see Sassolungo on there - is this included?
James Rushforth - on 10 May 2014
In reply to Rampikino:
Thanks very much.

Sassolungo is not included. Much like Civetta, the routes tend to be a bit more 'adventurous' than many of the surrounding areas. You could quite happily sink 40 pages into both and still only scratch the surface.

If there's sufficient space I think I'd rather get Sass Dlacia and / or the Passo Giau (Lastoni di Formin and Croda da Lago) in.

Again there many be chance to cover Civetta and Sassolungo in to a future app. Currently running on the upper page limit - on the plus side it will make the start moves of Via Maria on Sass Pordoi easier...
Post edited at 14:54
victorclimber - on 10 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

This Guide could even make the Dollies Popular !!
Ramon Marin - on 12 May 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

fantastic looking book! good work, must have have been a mammoth task!

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