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Does anybody have any experience of climbing any of the Leicestershire routes? On the Logbook they all seem to have troublesome access and as a relative beginner when it comes to outdoor climbing I'm not sure how you're supposed to approach this situation; any help appreciated!
In reply to BenjyM:
Beacon hill is a good place to start, no access issues and a nice evenings bouldering.
Beacon hill is a good place to start, no access issues and a nice evenings bouldering.
In reply to BenjyM:
Beacon Hill is ok but very polished, Markfield has some reaosnable routes to fill an afternoon, the Outwoods is good for soloing and Craig Buddon has a half decent HVS called Starco (not sure you're supposed to climb there though!).
Beacon Hill is ok but very polished, Markfield has some reaosnable routes to fill an afternoon, the Outwoods is good for soloing and Craig Buddon has a half decent HVS called Starco (not sure you're supposed to climb there though!).
In reply to BenjyM:
Leicestershire climbs are ok ,if you only have an hour or two spare, and the new guide is hopefully out soon.
Why not go to the Peak , and experience real quality climbing?
Leicestershire climbs are ok ,if you only have an hour or two spare, and the new guide is hopefully out soon.
Why not go to the Peak , and experience real quality climbing?
In reply to Nicholas Livesey:
Not sure if you've been to the outwoods lately, it's greener than Kermit the frog, except for the bits that are orange! If Benjy is just starting out he'll possibly find it a little sparse on the gear side. Craig Buddon's quite nice and I think you may be ok to climb there if you contact Severn Trent Water first (there's a number to call on the crag page on here). Charnwood quarry is a chossy hole in the ground that can definitely be described as an experience, but not necessarily an enjoyable one! Markfield is decent as well. One issue with beacon hill is that the landings are generally not fantastic on the main bit of the crag at the top of the hill but it's too short to be worth roping up for.
http://www.leicesterclimbs.f9.co.uk/
That is a useful website with topos for most of the crags in the area.
Not sure if you've been to the outwoods lately, it's greener than Kermit the frog, except for the bits that are orange! If Benjy is just starting out he'll possibly find it a little sparse on the gear side. Craig Buddon's quite nice and I think you may be ok to climb there if you contact Severn Trent Water first (there's a number to call on the crag page on here). Charnwood quarry is a chossy hole in the ground that can definitely be described as an experience, but not necessarily an enjoyable one! Markfield is decent as well. One issue with beacon hill is that the landings are generally not fantastic on the main bit of the crag at the top of the hill but it's too short to be worth roping up for.
http://www.leicesterclimbs.f9.co.uk/
That is a useful website with topos for most of the crags in the area.
In reply to spenser:
Must be four years since I've been to the Outwoods but it was quite clean (very orange!) then...shame, uninspiring climbing but a lovely spot. The Charnwood Forest is an area I've a great deal of affection for...
Must be four years since I've been to the Outwoods but it was quite clean (very orange!) then...shame, uninspiring climbing but a lovely spot. The Charnwood Forest is an area I've a great deal of affection for...
In reply to BenjyM:
I've not had acess issues. The outwoods is somewhere you should ask if you are taking a group. The info is
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1371
Anyone know if the trees are still dieseased?
Markfield is fine just park near the church.
I've not had acess issues. The outwoods is somewhere you should ask if you are taking a group. The info is
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1371
Anyone know if the trees are still dieseased?
Markfield is fine just park near the church.
In reply to marsbar:
We got told off by the warden when setting up anchors off them about a year ago so I guess they are. I didn't take any notice of the state of them when I was there a couple of months ago. All of the routes there which are in my logbook should still be climbable. "Oak" had way too much moss on it to be climbable while I was there. With a heavy brushing the crag would be a really nice place to climb. Going up to the peak will be a much better bet if you have a whole day to kill though!
We got told off by the warden when setting up anchors off them about a year ago so I guess they are. I didn't take any notice of the state of them when I was there a couple of months ago. All of the routes there which are in my logbook should still be climbable. "Oak" had way too much moss on it to be climbable while I was there. With a heavy brushing the crag would be a really nice place to climb. Going up to the peak will be a much better bet if you have a whole day to kill though!
In reply to spenser:
leicestershireclimbs.co.uk is a kind of updated version of it, with many crags omitted for good reason (I once cycled for 40 minutes to investigate Mountsorrel....jeepers!)
As others have said, for crags with no access, Markfield and Beacon Hill are a good bet. Apparently also decent bouldering in Bradgate Park.
Forest Rock in Woodhouse Eaves has no official access but climbing seems to be tolerated, I have had friendly conversations with residents living right next to it. It's a bit 'ard though, with only three routes below E1! Top roping is OK though.
Craig Buddon (trad granite) and Hangingstone (bolted slate) are the next most obvious venues but you are trespassing if you go to either of them. Craig Buddon is an SSSI. Hangingstone is on the grounds of a golf course and you have to trespass across farmers' fields to get there. But both are good!
> That is a useful website with topos for most of the crags in the area.
leicestershireclimbs.co.uk is a kind of updated version of it, with many crags omitted for good reason (I once cycled for 40 minutes to investigate Mountsorrel....jeepers!)
As others have said, for crags with no access, Markfield and Beacon Hill are a good bet. Apparently also decent bouldering in Bradgate Park.
Forest Rock in Woodhouse Eaves has no official access but climbing seems to be tolerated, I have had friendly conversations with residents living right next to it. It's a bit 'ard though, with only three routes below E1! Top roping is OK though.
Craig Buddon (trad granite) and Hangingstone (bolted slate) are the next most obvious venues but you are trespassing if you go to either of them. Craig Buddon is an SSSI. Hangingstone is on the grounds of a golf course and you have to trespass across farmers' fields to get there. But both are good!
In reply to BenjyM:
I believe Granitethorpe is a real no-no these days - I was told it had been taken over by travellers. Anyone able to confirm this?
I believe Granitethorpe is a real no-no these days - I was told it had been taken over by travellers. Anyone able to confirm this?
In reply to Blue Straggler:
I can confirm that a very substantial fence was build around Granitethorpe Quarry last year.
Some very good suggestions from other people.
A number of venues are great for top-ropes but annoyingly fiddly to place gear whilst leading, so you might want to boulder//solo/toprope at first.
(Don't be put off by The Outwoods, it's worth a visit. However, "acute oak decline" is incurable. The handy tree belays are currently huge and strong but are infected. The fear from the warden is that you will accidentally spread the disease to other trees. You can instead use nuts and slings in/on the rocks, or take a long rope and use trees further back.)
Another approach is to join with other local climbers / local club who know the venues and are happy to climb with you, since each venue has different issues.
Have fun!
> I believe Granitethorpe is a real no-no these days - I was told it had been taken over by travellers. Anyone able to confirm this?
I can confirm that a very substantial fence was build around Granitethorpe Quarry last year.
Some very good suggestions from other people.
A number of venues are great for top-ropes but annoyingly fiddly to place gear whilst leading, so you might want to boulder//solo/toprope at first.
(Don't be put off by The Outwoods, it's worth a visit. However, "acute oak decline" is incurable. The handy tree belays are currently huge and strong but are infected. The fear from the warden is that you will accidentally spread the disease to other trees. You can instead use nuts and slings in/on the rocks, or take a long rope and use trees further back.)
Another approach is to join with other local climbers / local club who know the venues and are happy to climb with you, since each venue has different issues.
Have fun!
In reply to BenjyM:
Good to see their are so many Leicestershire climbers on here able to comment knowledgeably!
Its all a bit average but I quite like Markfield.
I spent ages driving around once trying to locate various places and, as other have said, came to the conclusion that 30 mins further up the M1 was the solution
Good to see their are so many Leicestershire climbers on here able to comment knowledgeably!
Its all a bit average but I quite like Markfield.
I spent ages driving around once trying to locate various places and, as other have said, came to the conclusion that 30 mins further up the M1 was the solution
In reply to Babika:
Hangingstone probably has more good sub-7a sport routes than all of Peak Limestone though
Hangingstone probably has more good sub-7a sport routes than all of Peak Limestone though
In reply to BenjyM:
Leicestershire is a bit of an acquired taste and likely to put off someone new to the outdoors. Here's my crag review in no particular order.
Charnwood Quarry, I love this place but only for the sheer perversity of climbing such character building stuff so close to the M1. Best visited when your head is ready for a challenge.
Forest rock, unless you are a wad with a sunlight aversion its not got much to offer.
Beacon hill, great spot if you like landings that would slice you in two and rock that is so frictionless it makes PTFE look like grit on a cold day.
Outwoods, loveley spot, lots of squirrels, nice solos, nothing special.
Whitwick rocks, now a back garden, luckily ticked most of the routes just when the garage closed down.
Groby industrial estate, is an industrial estate.
Granitethorpe quarry, not visited for a few years, climbing looked ok'ish only soloed one route 'vee diff' not felt need to go back.
Markfield quarry, 'best' place I've visited, Two good slabby walls, not much else. Mind the crayfish.
Swannymote rock & poachers rock & cademan woods, not unpleasant but limited bouldering.
Mountsorrel. You cycled 40 minutes... For this.. I walked 40 seconds and felt robbed.
Slawston Bridge. Actually really good, I was very pleasantly surprised, lovely spot. For a bridge.
Carvers rocks, technically in Derbyshire. Leicestershire is welcome to it. Bolts won't bring the crowds here!
Anchor church caves. Not so much climbing as dust bothering, you will have words with yourself.
Blackbrook reservoir, First place in Leics I visited, did a diff and left. Not been back.
Oaks Pinnacle. More like it, superb, really good. Too short and not enough, a tantalising glimpse of what could be on offer.
Bradgate park, half decent but limited bouldering, pleasant enough.
Not done anything at other spots but visited Buddon and it looks OK.
Leicestershire is a bit of an acquired taste and likely to put off someone new to the outdoors. Here's my crag review in no particular order.
Charnwood Quarry, I love this place but only for the sheer perversity of climbing such character building stuff so close to the M1. Best visited when your head is ready for a challenge.
Forest rock, unless you are a wad with a sunlight aversion its not got much to offer.
Beacon hill, great spot if you like landings that would slice you in two and rock that is so frictionless it makes PTFE look like grit on a cold day.
Outwoods, loveley spot, lots of squirrels, nice solos, nothing special.
Whitwick rocks, now a back garden, luckily ticked most of the routes just when the garage closed down.
Groby industrial estate, is an industrial estate.
Granitethorpe quarry, not visited for a few years, climbing looked ok'ish only soloed one route 'vee diff' not felt need to go back.
Markfield quarry, 'best' place I've visited, Two good slabby walls, not much else. Mind the crayfish.
Swannymote rock & poachers rock & cademan woods, not unpleasant but limited bouldering.
Mountsorrel. You cycled 40 minutes... For this.. I walked 40 seconds and felt robbed.
Slawston Bridge. Actually really good, I was very pleasantly surprised, lovely spot. For a bridge.
Carvers rocks, technically in Derbyshire. Leicestershire is welcome to it. Bolts won't bring the crowds here!
Anchor church caves. Not so much climbing as dust bothering, you will have words with yourself.
Blackbrook reservoir, First place in Leics I visited, did a diff and left. Not been back.
Oaks Pinnacle. More like it, superb, really good. Too short and not enough, a tantalising glimpse of what could be on offer.
Bradgate park, half decent but limited bouldering, pleasant enough.
Not done anything at other spots but visited Buddon and it looks OK.
In reply to DerwentDiluted:
I used to live a five minute drive from Slawston Bridge and often enjoyed bouldering around there of an evening...
I've been wracking my brain all night but can;t think of the name of he old slate quarry where you have to phone up to climb. I never got around to visiting it but there was a very good VS if I remember correctly...Mango?
Ahh, just remembered, The Brand!
I used to live a five minute drive from Slawston Bridge and often enjoyed bouldering around there of an evening...
I've been wracking my brain all night but can;t think of the name of he old slate quarry where you have to phone up to climb. I never got around to visiting it but there was a very good VS if I remember correctly...Mango?
Ahh, just remembered, The Brand!
Post edited at 20:58
In reply to DerwentDiluted:
It was a nice ride and I needed the exercise. I still remember the headwind on the way home though, and some years have passed in between!
I love that you have an exhaustive list that doesn't include the two that I think are the most "obvious" (Buddon and Hangingstone). A chacun, son gout!
> Mountsorrel. You cycled 40 minutes... For this.. I walked 40 seconds and felt robbed.
It was a nice ride and I needed the exercise. I still remember the headwind on the way home though, and some years have passed in between!
I love that you have an exhaustive list that doesn't include the two that I think are the most "obvious" (Buddon and Hangingstone). A chacun, son gout!
Post edited at 21:00
In reply to Blue Straggler:
I work a lot round Coalville and Loughborough so check these places out in odd snatched hours so I'm restricted to soloing. On the occasions I can get Mrs diluted to hold a rope Leicestershire is not top of the venue list! I'd like to check out a few routes though, especially at Charnwood, I love that slab, soloing the central line was an amazing experience in mind control.
I work a lot round Coalville and Loughborough so check these places out in odd snatched hours so I'm restricted to soloing. On the occasions I can get Mrs diluted to hold a rope Leicestershire is not top of the venue list! I'd like to check out a few routes though, especially at Charnwood, I love that slab, soloing the central line was an amazing experience in mind control.
In reply to DerwentDiluted:
The E2 4a?
> soloing the central line was an amazing experience in mind control.
The E2 4a?
In reply to Blue Straggler:
No it was given something like HVS 4b but I'd say HS 4a was nearer the mark as it was very straightforward climbing with no real shortage of gear at an amenable angle. The last 20-30ft were very loose though and I left a rope hanging for that bit, but I didn't use it as by that time I had my crumbly rock head on!
No it was given something like HVS 4b but I'd say HS 4a was nearer the mark as it was very straightforward climbing with no real shortage of gear at an amenable angle. The last 20-30ft were very loose though and I left a rope hanging for that bit, but I didn't use it as by that time I had my crumbly rock head on!
In reply to DerwentDiluted:
Hasnt a new guidebook to the area been 'imminnent' for the last 3 years or so?
Hasnt a new guidebook to the area been 'imminnent' for the last 3 years or so?
In reply to BenjyM:
An old story but worth retelling: many years ago I fancied a visit to Leicestershire just to sample it. Dave Gregory was a close friend of local activist Ken Vickers and asked him where best to start - after some though Ken advised us to stop in the Peak!
Chris
An old story but worth retelling: many years ago I fancied a visit to Leicestershire just to sample it. Dave Gregory was a close friend of local activist Ken Vickers and asked him where best to start - after some though Ken advised us to stop in the Peak!
Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Its not to everyones taste or worth travelling maybe . There are some lovely places for an evening if you are local.
Markfield in particular is a great place to take large groups of children because tbere is a big flat area at the bottom to play games when waiting their turn as well as lots of easy climbing without getting in peoples way and an easy way to walk down.
Its not to everyones taste or worth travelling maybe . There are some lovely places for an evening if you are local.
Markfield in particular is a great place to take large groups of children because tbere is a big flat area at the bottom to play games when waiting their turn as well as lots of easy climbing without getting in peoples way and an easy way to walk down.
In reply to BenjyM:
Slawston Bridge is really good for a bit of bouldering, Bradgate Park seems to have a lot of rock but it's probably not that worth going there just for bouldering unless you live very near as it's all pretty easy/short, at least it looked it when I was there and checked it out with a friend!
Slawston Bridge is really good for a bit of bouldering, Bradgate Park seems to have a lot of rock but it's probably not that worth going there just for bouldering unless you live very near as it's all pretty easy/short, at least it looked it when I was there and checked it out with a friend!
In reply to BenjyM:
I've climbed at Craig Buddon and Hangingstone, both have good routes but the access is definitely not ideal, we got thrown off Hangingstone crossing the field. It also starts at 6a really. Buddon is great but a little bold and not much below HVS worth doing from memory. Forest Rock is a complete power grotto and not real worth a look unless you can do outdoor V4. My favourite is Slawston, great training venue, no access issues and some good lines. Take a pad or two!
I've climbed at Craig Buddon and Hangingstone, both have good routes but the access is definitely not ideal, we got thrown off Hangingstone crossing the field. It also starts at 6a really. Buddon is great but a little bold and not much below HVS worth doing from memory. Forest Rock is a complete power grotto and not real worth a look unless you can do outdoor V4. My favourite is Slawston, great training venue, no access issues and some good lines. Take a pad or two!
In reply to BenjyM:
I would say reading your post, as a 'relative beginner when it comes to outdoor climbing' then Markfield would be ideal. 20-30 routes from Mod to HVS. Easy uncontraversial access with parking. Simple walk downs. Good gear if you want to lead with highly featured routes so you can stand on ledges to place the good gear. Short - 10m, maybe 15m. Not busy. Flat bottomed, grassy, out of the wind. There aren't that many Peak District localaties that tick all those boxes, Harborough maybe, but that tends to be heaving and exposed to the wind. Would not describe it as full of 3* routes, but when you are starting you just need to get out there and do some.
I would say reading your post, as a 'relative beginner when it comes to outdoor climbing' then Markfield would be ideal. 20-30 routes from Mod to HVS. Easy uncontraversial access with parking. Simple walk downs. Good gear if you want to lead with highly featured routes so you can stand on ledges to place the good gear. Short - 10m, maybe 15m. Not busy. Flat bottomed, grassy, out of the wind. There aren't that many Peak District localaties that tick all those boxes, Harborough maybe, but that tends to be heaving and exposed to the wind. Would not describe it as full of 3* routes, but when you are starting you just need to get out there and do some.
In reply to philhilo:
Thanks for everything guys; I think I'm going to give Markfield a try when I can and see how I get on there. I've done a bit at the Roaches and Millstone Edge but it's a 2 hour drive for me and by the time I've walked up to the face and got my gear sorted etc it only leaves a few hours for climbing so something local to get my skills up would be great.
I'll let you know how I get on!
Thanks for everything guys; I think I'm going to give Markfield a try when I can and see how I get on there. I've done a bit at the Roaches and Millstone Edge but it's a 2 hour drive for me and by the time I've walked up to the face and got my gear sorted etc it only leaves a few hours for climbing so something local to get my skills up would be great.
I'll let you know how I get on!
In reply to BenjyM:
Man, get up earlier
When I used to travel 1.5-2 hours to the crag I used to be there for 10.30 and climb until 8pm - plenty of time
Having sampled most Leicester venues, only Beacon Hill is any good
Markfield is crap
Craig buddon is worth 1/2 day max
> (In reply to philhilo)
>
> Thanks for everything guys; I think I'm going to give Markfield a try when I can and see how I get on there. I've done a bit at the Roaches and Millstone Edge but it's a 2 hour drive for me and by the time I've walked up to the face and got my gear sorted etc it only leaves a few hours for climbing so something local to get my skills up would be great.
>
> I'll let you know how I get on!
>
> Thanks for everything guys; I think I'm going to give Markfield a try when I can and see how I get on there. I've done a bit at the Roaches and Millstone Edge but it's a 2 hour drive for me and by the time I've walked up to the face and got my gear sorted etc it only leaves a few hours for climbing so something local to get my skills up would be great.
>
> I'll let you know how I get on!
Man, get up earlier
When I used to travel 1.5-2 hours to the crag I used to be there for 10.30 and climb until 8pm - plenty of time
Having sampled most Leicester venues, only Beacon Hill is any good
Markfield is crap
Craig buddon is worth 1/2 day max
In reply to spidermonkey09:
Out of interest, how tall is Slawston? Is it worth taking a rope (and is there anything at the top to anchor it to?) I've been thinking of heading over there after work when the evenings get a bit longer and the weather gets a bit nicer...
> My favourite is Slawston, great training venue, no access issues and some good lines. Take a pad or two!
Out of interest, how tall is Slawston? Is it worth taking a rope (and is there anything at the top to anchor it to?) I've been thinking of heading over there after work when the evenings get a bit longer and the weather gets a bit nicer...
In reply to ashtond6:
I hear ya, by the time I've got the family ready and picked all my friends up we're normally on the road for 8ish and being noobs it takes us ages to set up and get going which is probably where we get killed on time.
Hopefully getting some more experience in around Leicestershire being as local as it is we'll get it honed so that we get more out of the peaks when we go
Again - thanks for all the tips everybody!
I hear ya, by the time I've got the family ready and picked all my friends up we're normally on the road for 8ish and being noobs it takes us ages to set up and get going which is probably where we get killed on time.
Hopefully getting some more experience in around Leicestershire being as local as it is we'll get it honed so that we get more out of the peaks when we go
Again - thanks for all the tips everybody!
In reply to Ramblin dave:
Don't bother taking a rope.
Oh my god! I was looking for an image to give you an idea of the height and found this! (you will have to put in the http - ukc is being weird)
www.reocities.com/iceman82_98/slawston/swalclimb5.jpg
It is a lovely spot for a summer evening's climbing.
> Out of interest, how tall is Slawston? Is it worth taking a rope (and is there anything at the top to anchor it to?) I've been thinking of heading over there after work when the evenings get a bit longer and the weather gets a bit nicer...
Don't bother taking a rope.
Oh my god! I was looking for an image to give you an idea of the height and found this! (you will have to put in the http - ukc is being weird)
www.reocities.com/iceman82_98/slawston/swalclimb5.jpg
It is a lovely spot for a summer evening's climbing.
Post edited at 14:45
In reply to tlm:
I knew my life was incomplete, I just couldn't put my finger on why.
> You missed out Finedon slabs...
I knew my life was incomplete, I just couldn't put my finger on why.
In reply to Ramblin dave:
I think its about 8m. You'll be fine with one pad if you're confident, I don't reckon a rope is worth it at all. There are some (dodgy) anchors in the form of wobbly old stakes but you're probably safer with the pad!
I would definitely recommend two pads if you have them though as it feels bloody high at the top!
I think its about 8m. You'll be fine with one pad if you're confident, I don't reckon a rope is worth it at all. There are some (dodgy) anchors in the form of wobbly old stakes but you're probably safer with the pad!
I would definitely recommend two pads if you have them though as it feels bloody high at the top!
1
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