UKC

Sizing BD Camalots

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 floss_81 10 May 2014
Bit of help if you can.

Im in the market for some new cams as my set of WC friends now are getting old and im finding im using a smaller array lately and always having to borrow off mates.

As it happens the misses is off to a family wedding in Canada in a few months so im going to stock her up with BD camalots for the flight home. This would be a great opportunity as they are mega cheap there, so im keen to get the lot while I can.

The ranges over lap some what. Here is the list I have so far

C4-#5 (Do I really need one this big? It £50)
C4-#4
C4-#3
C4-#2
C4-#1
C4-#0.75 (Can get this size in C4 or X4?)
X4-#0.5
X4-#0.4
X4-#0.3
X4-#0.2
X4-#0.1
C3-#00
C3-#000

Does this cover all the bases or are there some gaps that need filling? Im not bothered about seagull basher size 6!

I would appreciate your opinions. What am i going to use and what is just going to weigh my sack down?


 Aigen 10 May 2014
In reply to floss_81:

This is a very good list. I think the number 5 is very specialist and would consider leaving it out. I have a 5 and 6 and very very rarely use them. I would get the X4 0.75 over the C4, just because the head is narrower.
I would consider not getting the 00 C3. Just because the size is covered by the 0.1 X4.
If you went for this selection (no, No.5 no No.00 C3) then you could double up on certain sizes from wild counrty heliums. Yes WC Heliums because they fit between certain size of BD Camalots.

Lets say you do not get the No5 and 00 then you could get say a 2 WC that in sizes that suit the crack sizes you climb on most. For me its Fingers to tight hands so for me I would get a WC 1.5 and 2.

What ever way you go you will have a great rack of Cams as BD are Brilliant. And lastly I have DMM Phantom colored biners for each of my cams and they are excellent.
 CurlyStevo 10 May 2014
In reply to floss_81:

Depending on where you climb and what sort of grade you may find you need a few extra cams. I find having spares of a the equivalent of a 2 and 3 tech friend can be handy on some grit routes or multi pitch climbing on cam heavy rock like granite.
OP floss_81 10 May 2014
In reply to Aigen:

Cheers for that dude.

I dont think I will go for the big c4#5. Its the most expensive plus when would i use it. Also drop C3#00.

I hadnt thought about looking at the wc and seeing how there sizes cross over. Good idea.

As for biners, cheers for the heads up, but i run usually with them in bunches. I've found that ok up until now. Each to there own.

I see chaps here in nz using ball nuts on the small stuff. Its not something i really came across in the uk. And only ever heard of people using them on welsh slate. They go from 3mm to 13mm. Not sure on my verdict yet. Lived without them so far.

What do you think?
OP floss_81 10 May 2014
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Ive found just that.

I was previously in the Devon and found I didnt use the cams much, mostly nuts and my hex's. Hence why an old shit set of WC friends did the job.

Since being in NZ i instantly noticed the rock is cam hungry. Loads of parallel cracks. Small at that. And hardly ever use my hex's.

Also Im getting more small wires as the big stuff isnt needed.

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