UKC

Long easy mountain VDiffs suggestions

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 SARS 10 May 2014
I'm looking to do some easy "mountain" VDiffs solo over the next few months.
Ideally would like to start on the hills nearest to London and go from there... obviously I realise that nothing is actually near to London.

Does anyone have suggestions of hills and or routes?

Thanks.
 Mick Ward 10 May 2014
In reply to SARS:

East Face of Tryfan. Gashed Crag, First Pinnacle Rib and, best of all, that one whose name momentarily escapes me, with the Knight's Move on it.

Wear comfy footwear. And be careful of polished grooves worn smooth by generations of peddling.

Mick

P.S. Just remembered - Grooved Arete!
OP SARS 10 May 2014
In reply to Mick Ward:

Thanks. I've done FPR a couple of times on lead years ago so I was also thinking that Tryfan might be a good place to start. Grooved Arete looks nice.

Do you think there are any other hills closer to London worth considering as well?
 Mick Ward 10 May 2014
In reply to SARS:

Hills closer to London? I'm a bit tired and maybe missing something but, as you're going to have to go some distance, why not go the whole hog and have 'mountain experiences' in Wales? Bit of an effort to get there, I accept but, once you're there, you're (nearly) there.

Obviously tons of DWS in Dorset (much closer)... Given your profile, you'd probably get up Freeborn Man with little effort. But is that what you want?

Mick

 GridNorth 10 May 2014
In reply to SARS:

By your definition, no. The only mountains in the UK are in Scotland, the Lake District and North Wales. The latter is the nearest.
 GridNorth 10 May 2014
In reply to SARS:

There are multi-pitch routes in Cheddar,Avon and Wintours Leap but they are no where near the quality of those in North Wales.
OP SARS 10 May 2014
In reply to Mick Ward:

I think you're right. Yes it's the mountain experience I want. Was just wondering if I had missed anything worth considering. Sounds like no.

DWS isn't of much interest.

My plan is to ride my motorbike up, then do a route the next day. 4.5 hrs ride should be ok.
 d_b 10 May 2014
In reply to SARS:
Cadair Idris is a good target. In principle you can get the train most of the way to Dolgellau, but it'd be quicker to walk...

"Cwfry Arete by the Table Direct" is the classic vdiff in the area. It dries fast and will go even if it's a bit damp, which is handy for Wales.
Post edited at 21:17
 Merlin 10 May 2014
In reply to SARS:

Just be aware; mountain VDiffs are rarely 'easy', they just seem to be long enough to absorb the sporadic polished run-outs and slimey unprotected chimneys without anyone seeming to be able to recall it over the feet of scrambling, grass and mud.

I'm being cynical, but my point is valid. Just be aware that some have some stings in their tail. For example; the Sub Cneifon Arête which is allegedly a mountain VDiff (excuse spelling) nearly killed a guy I know because it's danagerously polished.
In reply to SARS:

Bosigran (Commando) Ridge and Land's End Long Climb. Four and a half to five hours on a bike, and neither are ridiculously polished.

Martin
 Ann S 10 May 2014
In reply to davidbeynon:

I think when I followed Bill up this route (Cwfry by Table etc) I was wearing big boots. Unfortunately I had failed to attach the tricounis or clinkers. At the top of probably, the second pitch, I said to Bill, "Bill, this is a slimy pile of tottering choss", or it might have been "Bill, this is a tottering pile of slimy choss".
 d_b 10 May 2014
In reply to Ann S:

To learn the true meaning of "slimy tottering choss" you have to go around the other side of the mountain and climb the Pencoed Pillar.
 Webster 10 May 2014
In reply to GridNorth:

> By your definition, no. The only mountains in the UK are in Scotland, the Lake District and North Wales. The latter is the nearest.

well no, by the British definition there are mountains in Dartmoor, Brecon beacons, peak district, Pennines etc etc... but none have the long multi pitch mountain routes you are after. Bosigran/commando ridge is probably the only route outside of the big 3 mountain areas which kinda meets your requirements, but from London its not much closer than N wales...
1
 Ann S 11 May 2014
In reply to davidbeynon:

> To learn the true meaning of "slimy tottering choss" you have to go around the other side of the mountain and climb the Pencoed Pillar.

I'll dig out those tricounis.
In reply to Webster:

> well no, by the British definition there are mountains in Dartmoor, Brecon beacons, peak district, Pennines etc etc... but none have the long multi pitch mountain routes you are after. Bosigran/commando ridge is probably the only route outside of the big 3 mountain areas which kinda meets your requirements, but from London its not much closer than N wales...

I have never, ever heard the hills of Dartmoor, B b, P D, or rest of Pennines described as mountains. What on earth is this alleged 'British definition' of mountains you are referring to?
 Rick Sewards 11 May 2014
In reply to SARS:

Ogwen really is the obvious place for that sort of thing, but no need to limit yourself to one route. As you've come all that way and you won't be carrying much (assuming the weather's good, and if not why would you bother?), you might as well do an enchainment - you can get a long mountain day, several summits and little uphill plodding. The last time I was Billy-No-Mates in North Wales I started via a route on Little Tryfan (finishing by scrambling up the crest), then Gashed Crag to the summit, then descended and contoured across to Glyder Fach, where you can link three routes (something on the Alphabet Slab, The Needle's Eye and Route II on Dolmen Buttress) which leads via a nice ridge scramble to the summit, then stopped off to do something on Bochlwyd Buttress on the way down. I've also done a circuit starting with one of the slab routes on the Gribin Facet, then Sub-Cneifon Rib, then Cneifion Arete and down via Bristly Ridge.

Rick
Miranda 11 May 2014
In reply to SARS:

These are my favourites - of varing difficulty but within the same range:
Amphitheatre Buttress
Idwal Slabs Ordinary Route
Milestone Buttress Rowan Route
Milestone Buttres Pulpit route
Tryfan First Pinnacle Ridge
Tyfan Grooved Arete - Better with a partner
Parson's Nose
Cneifon Arete
Bryants Gully
Spiral Stairs
Flying Buttress
 Mick Ward 11 May 2014
In reply to Rick Sewards:

> As you've come all that way and you won't be carrying much (assuming the weather's good, and if not why would you bother?), you might as well do an enchainment - you can get a long mountain day, several summits and little uphill plodding.

Some great suggestions. Also a beautifully laid out article by Mark Stevenson on this very subject. Enchainments of routes, ridges and summits seem to give some of the happiest and most fulfilling days in the hills.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=435

Mick
 d_b 11 May 2014
In reply to Ann S:

Seriously though, I thought only the pitch onto the table was particularly chossy, and that was really a scramble. The rest was great fun.
 Choss 11 May 2014
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

i think they are Probably refering to the 2000 foot Summit thing. 610m doesnt Sound so good.

that puts Two on Dartmoor.

i tend to use that as my definition.
 Ann S 11 May 2014
In reply to davidbeynon:

Indeed the Table was good fun and was probably my first experience of proper downclimbing. A mini version of the Cioch nose in Applecross if you do the full route up to the road.
 Trevers 11 May 2014
In reply to SARS:

Bosigran is probably a longer drive away from London than anything in Snowdonia.

I'd recommend Amphitheater Buttress. The climbing is easy (most of it is a scramble) but there are some really interesting sections, spectacular location and it's right in the heart of the Carneddau, feels really remote
Miranda 11 May 2014
In reply to SARS:

For a big scrambly solo day out with a serious feel to it in places, I recommend North West Face route followed by Seniors Ridge and a trot over the Glyders to descend via Bristly Ridge.
 Postmanpat 11 May 2014
In reply to SARS:

Don't forget to buy some heavy leather boots and red socks before you go. Be warned, "Egyptians, are a right b*gger in big boots.
 Choss 11 May 2014
In reply to SARS:
I Know its not a mountain, but i wouldnt rule out wintours Leap From London for that Kind of thing.

when i was younger and braver, i used to Spend hours soloing up and down the Central bay area. Mostly diffs and v diffs, gotta be 200 plus foot Tall. Up down, mix and Match Pitches as Long as you like, feels Like Long mountain Type stuff. The Problems is good fun.

Anywhere between the corner buttress routes and the top of the easy way down. And just to the Left, original route is the best v diff there in my Opinion.
Post edited at 12:33
 Webster 11 May 2014
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

over 1000ft, the over 3000ft which I assume u are referring to is a recent anglicised version of the metric mountain (French) which is 1000m. have you never seen or heard of the film about Caerphilly mtn in which (I think) huw grant goes up a hill and down a mountain... basically they built a lump on top of it to make it 1000 ft.
 JamesRoddie 11 May 2014
In reply to Webster:

If you find yourself heading North to Scotland:

North-East Buttress on Ben Nevis is a good mountain V.Diff solo. Easily one of the most impressive mountain features in Britain with continuously grand situations.

Lots of great link-ups possible on the East Face of Aonach Dubh at around Hard Diff or V.Diff. Superb rock and a really beautiful place.






 Bulls Crack 11 May 2014
In reply to SARS:

Ordinary Route or Outside Edge and the Nantelle Ridge is a grand day out? up to you how you get back fro the other end ...taxi?
 RANGITOTO 11 May 2014
In reply to SARS:

The Long Routes: Mountaineering Rock Climbs In Snowdonia And The Lake District by Robin Ashcroft

Is excellent.
OP SARS 12 May 2014
Thanks everyone, lots of great suggestions to be looking into.

 caradoc 12 May 2014
In reply to SARS:
The Atlantic Slabs, Ogwen offer a some possible routes. Left Edge, Carnedd y Filliast is a good open climb, easy VDif.
 d_b 12 May 2014
In reply to caradoc:

I was up there over the bh. One of my mates solod "Jay Route", which is the slab below left edge (between it and waved slab). He reported it to be about the same grade as LE, and almost as good.

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