/ UKC Fit Club Week 373

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mattrm - on 11 May 2014
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.

Psyche video of the week - http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/crookrise-the-first-great-climb (all togehter now, awwwww!) - Suggestions welcome

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity

Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=586067

biscuit - 7b+? Nice. Glad to hear you're enjoying the yoga.
Exile - Good week. Weight going down. Good progress there.
Tyler - Well done on Craig y Longridge stuff.
hms - Glad to see you've got a project.
IainRUK - It's ok to have the odd off race. I'm sure you'll bounce back.
grubes - Rest week. Well deserved.
mbh - Good miles again.
Tubb93 - Well done on the V5.
Dandan82 - Hope you're back to climbing soon. Worth doing some running and swimming to keep things ticking over.
ashley_scott1 - If you've never done an ultra before, I'd go for 40 miles.
Kevster - welcome back. nice goals there, I'm sure you'll crush.
mrchewey - Keep the knees safe. That's more important than chasing a grade.
Alun - Crushing as usual. Read your E4 article the otherday, it was inspiring. Well done on the flashes and onsights.
JimmyKay - Another impressive ticklist.
mattrm - Climbing is but a distant memory.
Just Tintin - Good number of sessions there. Nice ticklist as well.
Nick Rusell - Good luck with the proj. Well done on the E4 onsight.
Ally Smith - Nice list of big E numbers there. Would love to hear a bit more about the process of HPing an E8 route and what it feels like. Where do you see your onsight max being?
Ali - Hope the project goes well for you. Not surprised your OH got the 7a, he did well on that 6c+
Goonie - Welcome back. Good list of goals there. Hope the fatherhood thing goes well.
Humperdink - You want a pass eh? Maybe... Good training week there.
Si Cox - :( Hope the finger gets well soon.
stevemarkperry - Fingers crossed for flowers.
Luke Owens - Well done. Nice video. Good luck with the 7C.

Think I've got everyone there. Good week for everyone. Well done.
JimmyKay - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

M-Brimham, got home and did some core. 450 core movements and 9 mins of plank, 150 press ups
T-core, 380 core movements 6 min of plank 100 press ups
W-bouldering session. Followed by core 420 core, 6min plank, 100 press ups
T-short bouldering session, 420 core 100 press ups
F-nesscliffe after work. Flailed around trying to tick Kyloe in for about an hour. A local turned up and told me how to do little Northumberland. Almost flashed it. Very last move spat me off. Went pretty quickly. Found the reverse a little more difficult but it went after a bit of a rest. Then did the link into Northumberland wonderland. That was cool. Tried the Kyloe in and again and lost a fair load of skin. Then fell off the last move of rigpa three times on the fluid dynamic link. Pretty spanked at that point. Logbook reads 2 x v9 and a v10. Not sure how deserving of those I am.
S-nothing
S-board session this afternoon followed by core. Will update later
Ally Smith on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

> Ally Smith - Nice list of big E numbers there. Would love to hear a bit more about the process of HPing an E8 route and what it feels like.

Turn your brain off, especially your imagination! Visualise the route before setting off. Take solace from being massively within your sport grade max. Take the rain shower as a sign that you can't procrastinate anymore. Execute.

The right headspace for HP'ing for me is fairly removed from anything but the climbing. However, in the past i've "woken up" mid route and been a bit panicked by something not going 100% to plan. I've learnt from my sport RP'ing that it doesn't have to be perfect to work and know how to re-focus mid-route without panicking now.

Like all facets of climbing, it takes practice. I did a huge amount of HP'ing ~10years ago. Had a bit of a mad spell doing >E7/month for 18mths or so. Luck ran out and smashed myself up trying to GU an Avon E7 and got into sport climbing to be fit enough for the harder HP's i wanted to do. Never looked back!

> Where do you see your onsight max being?
OS'd a few E6's in differing styles over the years. Flashed an E6/7 6c. There might be an E7 out there with my name on it. I'd need a lot more time on trad to feel confident enough to push the boat out though!
Exile - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for doing fit club again. Weight down again this week - nothing like a full on new job to loose weight!

Aims:

Spring HP The Asylum E5 6a(?) RP 7a quickly then possibly 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)

Summer Lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)

Next winter start with VI 7

Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

M: 50min hilly ride on road bike
T: Nothing - couldn't get a partner, which was a shame as it ended up being the only good weather evening of he week
W: 1h 30min endurance traverses at wall then 40min road run home
T: Nothing
F: 1hrs wall session before work. Lapping previously completed traverses for endurance.
S: Nothing
S: 1,5 hrs Red Wall - 6 x TR on Nova Express, E3 6a. Good endurance session again

Steady climbing week but feels a little like treading water as the weather hasn't allowed for getting on a target route.

Have not weighted this morning but 11st 8lb on Friday - going down.
Curious Yellow - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for doing the thread... I’ve been AWOL again for a couple of weeks, sorry!

Welcome back Kev :-)

Spent a week in Kalymnos, which was great but not very productive, no big ticks, the highlight was probably falling off the last move of Alfredo Alfredo (7b+) – doh! I’m quite pleased with that though as it shut me down completely a couple of years ago when I first tried it.

Then did a long weekend up at Malham, had a look at a couple of routes, didn't get really stuck into anything.

Took a week off when I got back then had a couple of short and rubbish boulder sessions, no energy at all + struggling with an annoying forearm injury (some kind of tendon strain I think).

Back up to Malham for the bank holiday, spent the first day getting some decent links on Tremelo (and catching up with Ally - good to see you!) but felt trashed the second day.

This week:
Mon - Malham. Tried to climb but still felt so wiped out I decided it was best to call it quits, pretty disappointed.
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Short boulder, took it easy. Feeling better, no forearm pain.
Fri - Much better boulder session, finally feeling recovered. 2x V5.
Sat - Rest.
Sun - About to head out for a boulder.
mrchewy - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt.

Posting after reading the above strong reports. Embarrassingly feeble here.

Mon - 4.5hr boulder session. Flashed 18 x V0. The last V0 I must have had 20 goes at... just couldn't do it. Literally not strong enough in the arms or core. Flashed some V1/2/3 and worked some V4s. Big toes hurt by the end.
Evening, I did weighted squats and some yoga.

Tue - Some hangs. A solid 12hr session at work of hand sanding old paint. Blood seeping out of pores, so the hangs were painful.

Wed - Skin gone. Top roped a 5, then the sandbag 5 (6a+), cruised a 6b and finally had a go at a 6c - strong at the top but think it might go. Tips too painful to carry on.

Thu - Rest. Slept about 16hrs. Work has been intense.

Fr - Rest as fingers still sore and the knee was inflamed after work.

Sat - 4.5hr session at The Climbing Station @ Loughborough. Felt crap as got proper drunk the night before. Climbed crap, worst in ages but still managed to flash most of the V2s, did quite a few V3s and one that might have been a V4.
Later managed about 45min at Pinnacle. Skin gone by the end.

Sun - Run!!! Only about 2.5 miles before it hurt but I'll take that. It felt great to be out in the drizzle to be honest. A quick stretch and then a short session at Pinnacle - hangs and quick easy boulder. Squats and yoga in a bit.

Felt like a good start to the week despite the skin being thin. I had been really looking forward to the Climbing Station (that's a first for indoors) but like a muppet, one beer turned into ten as I'm training for a stag weekend next month (best man) and any chance of climbing well was over. Had a good half hour mid session and then some friendly comp with my physio Carol - all in all a good day.

The top rope session on Wed, whilst short, was a massive confidence booster. The 6b gave me a right beating 6 weeks ago but I'll get on lead on it this week and expect to get it clean. Got a 6c project too. So leading it is this week hopefully.

Managed a run without the knee flaring up, it felt so good. Only 9min miles and 2.5mile is pretty poor but it's a start and more importantly, when the pain kicked in I was smiling my face off. Must keep this up.
Post edited at 16:18
Joughton on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm: Having finally kicked myself into proper revision mode (exams are in a month) time for training has declined considerably, especially when combined with a very lively bank holiday weekend.

Mon - recovered from the previous night with the usual run in a decent time
Tue - nothing
Wed - gym working antagonistics, as well as some general core and conditioning. Good core and chest burn.
Thurs - rest, sore
Fri - nothing
Sat - similar routine to Wednesday but with less motivation.
Sun - rest

Training is a bit all over the place really, don't have the time or the psyche to get outside so the main motivation is just that my three month summer will begin in six weeks! Plan for next week is a couple more conditioning sessions and at least one wall session. Maybe get out this weekend if the weather improves for a quick boulder.

Cheers, Jake
Joughton on 11 May 2014
In reply to Ally Smith: didn't post last week but well done on the E8, very impressive, very understated as well. It's a route I've penned down for a good first of the grade if I get into head pointing. How was Gathering Sun in terms if danger as well, it looks like an amazing route.

I'd be surprised if there weren't a few safe E7s in Pembroke within your onsight ability though! If I'm planning to try onsighting some E6s this summer you should be getting on the E7s!
biscuit - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt.

Last week was full of some amazing achievements and great to see some old names back.

Again a bit of a 'meh!' week for me.

Only one yoga session as i got back from work too late. Still loving it. I can touch my toes already and we sometime have a go at ridiculous handstand poses etc. just for the laugh. Realy hard and really good fun.

No running/cardio as i was at work for most of the week on a course and i've got no babysitter atm. This did involve climbing most days but nothing hard. My shoulders flared up massively and my finger hurt too. I couldn't even do a 6a on Friday as everything was just hurting. The pain from my shoulders was radiating down both arms into my elbows. Doing anything with them ( driving, opening doors etc.) hurt. Started the shoulder physio exercises The Fox showed me on Thursday and they're feeling back to normal already. Amazing ! Going to keep them up for the foreseeable.

The one highlight was a trip to Malham at the beginning of the week. Yes, Malham a highlight. Things must be bad. I asked my mate where Taking the Space went. He pointed it out. I bolt to bolted it. 1 move in the middle i didn't do as it hurt my finger. I also got stuck at the roof. My mate's beta was whack.He'd just warmed up on Mescalito and is far too strong. He got to the kneebar and just went straight up so told me to do that. It's about a 1m reach over a roof with crap feet ! ER has set me straight that what i spotted ( traverse right to easier holds ) is the way ahead. I thought it felt like i was on another route so discarded it.I was feeling a bit dejected as it felt really hard for 7b, though i had linked to the move i didn't want to do, from there to the knee bar and after the roof to the top. And it was hurting my finger and it was supposed to be a jug fest.

Turns out my mate had only heard the word space when i asked him and i was on Space Race 7b+. So i'm happy again. I reckon another visit with a stronger finger will have the middle sorted and i just need to re look at the roof and then away i go. So i've got projects at Malham and Kilnsey now. Just need it to stop raining.

Not sure what to do this week. I've the chance to climb indoors a lot as i'm at work but i'm worried it'll flare up again and hurt my finger. The weekend is out as i'm working all of it, so i think i'll continue with the rehab on shoulders/finger and do some v easy fingerboarding and maybe see how an indoor, easy, boulder session feels. I seem to be at a good place atm and don't want to lose my fitness but i may have to just wait.

I can use this week to lose some tub i guess. Seem to have done OK this last week but not got my scales atm. Hopefully a big bike ride tomorrow.
Nick Russell on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:
> Nick Rusell - Good luck with the proj. Well done on the E4 onsight.

Thanks for the stats Matt! E4 is still a big thing for me (to be honest, E3 is probably still a bit on/off) but hopefully it will be less notable by the end of this season. Sent the project this week! Need a new one...

M - Bank holiday, still at Clwyd: Twilight Zone with lots of wind. Did an E2 (trundled a very large block teetering at the top-out), a VS (quite nice, but not a finger crack as the guide book says) and an E3 (softest E3 in the valley, I got to the top still waiting for the hard bit. First one to log it on UKC, which is a first for me.)
T - Rest (Sports massage on the physio's advice.)
W - 6km run, short set on fingerboard (working back 3)
T - Swimming (2.4km)
F - Ban-y-Gor. Ticked the project (Latest Craze, 7b+) second attempt of the day (second RP overall). I was very close first time putting the clips in but missed a crucial foot on the last hard move.
I also attempted to onsight a 7a but got thwarted by the last (painful) move. Looking at the logbooks, I'm not the only one. It's probably about 6c up to that move.
S - Bloc. Only about 1 hour bouldering then a bit of core etc. Working my way through some of the steep problems on the comp wall.
S - Rest. (Supported my brother and girlfriend in the Bristol 10k.)

Another strong week, finally feeling like I'm back where I was at the end of last season (in sport and trad). Quite tired today, back onto it tomorrow with a 2 hour swimming set. Hopefully I'll get back to Ban-y-Gor with hms next week, there's a couple of tempting 7b's near to Latest Craze and of course there's Almost Me (7c) a bit further along.

2014 goals
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 2, clean onsight: 1
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 142/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr*, 26.98 50 fr, 1:12.34 100 bk, 31.12 50 fly*
*Relay splits


Short-term goals

  • Get some sport mileage in 7b-7c range.
    Ticked Latest Craze, 7b+. Back to Ban-y-Gor next week.
  • Re-gain some strength: keep up 2 bouldering/fingerboard sessions per week.
    On target: 1 x bouldering, 1 x fingerboard.
  • Plan/train for trips in September/October: 1 week in Lundy, 2 weeks in US East Coast.
mbh - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for doing this again Matt.

M - 7 miles
T - nothing
W - 10.6 miles to Hell's Mouth via Portreath, into the wind on the coast path.
T - 10.2 miles Perranporth, wind in my face again on the coast path.
F - lots of good intentions, but ended up with my wife in a trendy bar in Falmouth instead. Good decision.
S - long 14.1 miles, again with a lot of coast path, but this time I engaged my brain before hand and went along the coast path with the (25 mph) wind behind me, back along sheltered inland ways. Much better, except when the gusts almost blew me off the edge one time.
S -11.3 miles.

53.2 miles, 5136 ft ascent (or 85 km, 1565 m) in 5 runs. Lots of wind, lots of off-road and some rain.

I am just about hanging in there with this training thing, work being very time consuming at the moment (not complaining, I like it!), so there is little structure to what I do, but I seem to have settled on a 50 miles per week target, come what may, with some coast path and at least 4000 ft going on 5000 ft ascent each week, if I can. I work at home a lot, so I look forward to leaving my actual work place as soon as I can during the week to run for a few miles along the coast path.
stevemarkperry - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt. Still no Flowers but I've got closer!

Two bike interval sessions this week plus a TT effort on the mountain bike. Happy with the progress here and just building power and force now ready for June. Felt strong on Flowers on Monday having got my foot the closest it's been yet – just by looking left and shifting my weight slightly. Renewed motivation on that now although right hand hold still felt greasy.

This week I've promised that I would head to MCC to take part in Climb Out's challenge – http://www.climbout.co.uk/events/mental-health-awareness-week-2014/ – to help Jake spread the word about mental health and its challenges. I'm also heading over to Windgather on Sunday to take part in his 50 routes in 24hrs. I can only make the Sunday so I doubt I'll manage 50 but I'll do what I can!

Get involved if you can, I'll be there heading up Positive Altitude and anyone is welcome.


This Week:

Weight: 140 lbs (Approx. Need new batteries for scales <- todo)

M: Intervals on bike. Session on Flowers, got my right foot a couple of inches from the hold by looking left, producing a slight weight shift. Progress. Also played on Boozy Trav.
T: 18.5km mountain bike ride
W: 30min TT on mountain bike
T: Rest
F: 10km mountain bike ride. Upper body strength (4 x 8 pull ups, lock-offs, 4 x 8 barbell bicep curls, 4 x 12 push ups)
S: Walk up around Derwent Edge -> Ladybower, lovely
S: Intervals on bike. Churnet bouldering working a 7A. Upper body strength (4 x 8 pull ups, lock-offs, 4 x 8 barbell bicep curls, 4 x 12 push ups)


STG:
Drunk Enough Font 6C+ (Roaches) (TICK!)
-> Sleeping With The Flowers 6C+/7A (Roaches)
Top 20% in category Summer Classic XC at Cannock on 1st June
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Lead Severe (Route TBD)
Hit the trails on the MTB when possible


MTG (by Dec 2014):
Consolodate at Font 7A
Tick a Font 7B
Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet (on a back burner as the Churnet has now entered green mode for the most part)


VLTG (plus some superficially grade-based for now):
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Rjukan
7B, E1, WI6, VI 6, ED Alpine
Consolodate winter experience
Kevster - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt,

Did OK, plenty of other commitments, no out doors.
Not much to add, no excitement/stories/revelations.

Mon:
Tues:
Weds: Fingerboard
Thurs: Indoors leading
Fri:
Sat: Indoors leading
Sun:

Lleida and Riglos at the end of May, I'm looking for a potential RP project in Lleida area. 7c-8a. I'm not the strongest person, so power routes are often a bit strong for me. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.


Goals
Trad: E4 OS. Volume of E2 and E3. Try to avoid sub E1 routes.

Sport ambitions: 7c-8a RP, 7b OS, get comfy 7a OS again.

Indoors: Variety of walls, FB regularly, get more CV.

Upcoming focus: Riglos & lleida end of May, Also have weekends June and July to possible big tick venues. Also want to get Skeleton Ridge done, any experience here?

Thanks, Kev.
JimmyKay - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Slowish 5k this morning which felt soo hard. Felt the need for a bit of cardio though.

Really good session on the board this evening. Solid footwork from all the core work. Running laps on my 7B problem. Added an awesome sitter into it which I repeated a few times. About 90mins. Then did 840core movements, 3x3min plank and 150 press ups.

Weather looks good next weekend. Super psyched. Spain a week Friday. Think I'm possibly more psyched about dry lakes this weekend!!!
hms - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for the write-up Matt. Didn't manage to get back on the project this week cos the day Nick & I had planned on it piddled down. Life will also be a bit tense & complex for a few weeks as daughter taking her GCSEs so I'm in full support-crew mode.

M UCR, 12 routes, up to 7a, finishing with 3 back-to-back 6b+s as a warm-down
T cycle commute but other than that a rest
W cycle commute. TRX: 2 core sets, 2 upper body sets, then 60 pull-ups
T cycle commute. UCR circuits, lots and lots of them. Included some v good attempts at the fingery 7a which had previously shut me down. Haven't got it in one but can definitely do it in 2.
F New Quarry for quick few routes in the morning, but v cold & windy. Tried a newly retro-bolted 6c+ (still on UKC as E4) but ran out of stamina trying to work out grey quarry moves near the top. Pretty much no previous chalk etc from other punters to give any hints anywhere - i fact some of what I hope could be chalk leading the way was in fact rock-dust from the bolting! Then went to Bloc in the afternoon. Quite tired!
S rest
S UCR 6a 6a / 6b 6b / 6b 6c/6c (tea break) 7a / 6c/ 6c+/6b+ 6b+. Didn't get the 7a clean as couldn't get the top clip in from a tiny crimp. Need to suss a better clipping position, methinks.

So lots of mileage just sadly not as much on nice rock as I'd like. Mind you, New Quarry is I'm sure v good for me as I find the style there horribly difficult - all weird off balance sidepulls. Hope to get back on project on Weds but obviously rather weather dependant.

mbh - on 11 May 2014
In reply to JimmyKay:

> Then did 840core movements, 3x3min plank and 150 press ups.

So only the 990 movements then?

Shape up Jimmy!
AJM - on 11 May 2014
In reply to hms:

Pass on good luck wishes for us.

60 pull-ups - who are you, porkpiegirl?
AJM - on 11 May 2014
In reply to Kevster:

> Lleida and Riglos at the end of May, I'm looking for a potential RP project in Lleida area. 7c-8a. I'm not the strongest person, so power routes are often a bit strong for me. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.

No direct experience, but Lleida is a big area!

It'll be hot, so my suggestion would be that Regina on Terradets, tres ponts, camarasa and maybe the gorge at Collegats are most likely to offer good conditions?

Or Figols, but then I wouldn't actually recommend it based on our experience there - the 8a was apparently quite good but there wasn't much else easier that looked much cop. I've been told good things about Regina, although it doesn't have an easy walkin. Pizarra at Terradets looks pants.

Personally I'd try my luck with Regina, but then that's because I wasn't so taken by tres ponts because I didn't feel I had the time to invest in the good stuff (alt urgell, segre etc - the vert stuff further right didn't look as good). The 7b+ pim pam plus at Regina comes recommended by others.

> Also want to get Skeleton Ridge done, any experience here?

No experience, but I'd love to hear how you get on. Been vaguely on the list for years

Tubb93 - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks mattrm.


Have had a very busy week being home working every day so on Friday I got to Bloc for the first time. Was very impressed and got a few V4s done. Back into climbing next week.
Joughton on 11 May 2014
In reply to Kevster:
Tres Ponts has some great stamina plods, very little power required but very long and pumpy, ideal if you've spent a while at the climbing wall. Can't remember the names but the main wall has absolute stacks to go at from 7b to 8a. The 7b is very onsight able. Think the classic 7c is called Alt Urgell if I remember rightly. This also has an 8a extension if you're going well!

Also slightly more off the beaten track is Perles. Frederic Balsara, 7b+ for the first 20m then another 15m of 7a+ to get the 7c tick. Good one to go for because at least if you don't get the whole thing you'll still get the 7b+ consolation tick. Although to be honest a lot of the harder routes in that area are extensions.

Obviously there's absolute stacks to go at but those are my favourites. Worth mentioning we never went to the Terradetts which apparently is the best bit, so that's probably worth a visit too.
Post edited at 20:42
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Kevster - on 11 May 2014
In reply to Joughton:

Thanks Jake and Andy, I have the POD/Andrada selective guide, is this enough do you know?
Further suggestions are welcome.
Tyler - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:
M: Was too knackered for L'Ob Session so went on the 7b+ de jour at Kilnsey. Went on this briefly years ago and could barely do a move so was pleased to at least get to the point where I thought it was worth having a redpoint attempt (it wasn't!).
T: work and family commitments stopped me getting out
W: boulder UK, usual sketch flashed load of new V5s failed to make an impression on the V6s. Not sure whether to be happy about not getting any weaker or disappointed that I've not got any stronger.
T: Run SH-BH-HH-PT (34:33 to BH, 1:22:45 total)
F: Run Chapter 13 (45:25)
S: legitimate rest
S: Nearly didn't go to Malham due to apocalyptic forecast and seepage. Got very high on warm up go on project so then the nerves kicked in and I fell off near the start 5 times before I finally got my shit and sent it. Hooray for me!
Post edited at 21:15
AJM - on 11 May 2014
In reply to Joughton:

If the grades themselves are an issue rather than the quality its worth noting that tres ponts seems to have seen a fair bit of downgrading in the new Lleida climbs (which Kev should be more than enough) - Urgell to 7b+ and 7c+/8a iirc, the nameless (excellent) 7b to 7a+, definitely some downgrades on those routes round Segre but I forget exactly what.........

In reply to Tyler:

Good job!

biscuit - on 11 May 2014
In reply to Tyler:

Hooray !!!!
Goonie - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers again for for sorting the posts and sorry for not asking :-) about the fight club!!!
Bit of a resting week before I get started on the training so no massive ticks though surprisingly plodding along nicely on the couple of sessions!

Sour point this week: lost a bit of faith in fellow climbers (when something sounds to good to be true it generally is) thought I had found a great board set up being sold off in London but apparently because I can't pick it up before Monday night he is going to skip the lot gutted! I even offered to pick up as much as I could tonight on being told this but apparently that's not good enough! Really disappointed as it looked a great set up and me and kev among others in South Essex could have benefited! Oh well we will just have to buy it and make a better board!

Any way come on guys and gals I need a goal route lets get the suggestions rolling for the 8a's, also has any one been to Dordogne any suggestions?

LTG (End 2014):
- 8a (route to be decided)
- 7B & 7B+ (Mestizo traverse and Consolidated)
- Front Lever hold 5 sec.
- 1 arm 1/2 crimp campus rung 1st joint for 5 sec.
- Complete 3 seasons focussed periodisation training.
- weight under 75kg

MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
- V7 (the Gutter, Roaches)
- trip to Dordogne 7c minimum!
- indoor V7
- try and get 2 days out each month on rock (fatherhood)
- Get the board in the Abbey built with Ben!
- Weight under 77kg by August trip.

STG (The coming week)
- Start back at conditioning focussing on gymnastic related core strength
- begin strength phase in periodised program.
- maybe become a dad!!!! Or next week!

Last week:
M - rest looking after the bumpasaurus
T- rest
W- rest, drawing up new program for the next season!
T- volume session up to V6.
F- ARC - 30 mins up down routes up to V4, further probs up to V6 including V6 flash WTF??
S- rest but did some raft guiding which is quite physical so cross training?
Su- rest digging the garden and demolition and being really peed off by end of day see above

Decided to not do any ore or supplementary stuff this week but starting g new program on Monday!

Weight this week at 80.5 kg so a kilo in the right direction

Cheers all

Gordon
Goonie - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Kev I have the lleda guide if you want to borrow it :)
Joughton on 11 May 2014
In reply to AJM: Yeah I thought that might be an issue, I think a lot of the harder routes to the right will have had their grades cut as well.

In reply to Kevster: That guide has everything you need in it!
hms - on 11 May 2014
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy. The 60 were in blocks of 10 then a rest not back to back, and I am starting with arms v slightly bent rather than pulling up on straight arms. However, seems like it is important to try to build strength so thought I'd give it a go. Must say, since starting to use the TRX I definitely have put on muscle bulk round my shoulders and also on my stomach. So hope it will pay dividends and not just weigh me down.

The new shoes now seem to have broken in too. They have softened up a bit and also lost that creepy new shoe slipperyness so I'm properly trusting my feet on small stuff again. Took a good few sessions to do though.

AJM - on 11 May 2014
In reply to Goonie:

Out of curiosity, when you say "the Abbey", do you mean Waltham?

No idea about the Dordogne I'm afraid.

8a goal routes surely depend on your style, although if I had to pick things in the UK I'd be thinking Cider Soak, maybe something in the cave by Haka Periapu and Mind Cathedral and stuff, something grand at Malham/Kilnsey, maybe one of the long things at the Tor - Prow in one perhaps - and Statement or something on the Diamond. But that's inspiration rather than practicalities.
Ally Smith on 11 May 2014
In reply to Joughton:

Cheers Jake. Good luck with your exams.

I'd happily recommend Gathering Sun - safe after the first E5 bit up to the break. Enough gear that you could have half your runners blow and still not hit the deck. Can't say the same for My Piano.
Ally Smith on 11 May 2014
In reply to Tyler:

Nice one Ash.

I guess saturday's ming was all surface run off then, if it was drying back by the afternoon?
mattrm - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - dread to think...

M - 10 hours labouring
T - 8 hours labouring
W - 8 hours labouring
T - 4 hours labouring, 4 hours joinery
F - 8 hours labouring
S - Getting rid of skip, sweeping and tidying, cleaning and maintaining tools
S - 6 hours building base for shed

Meh. Didn't manage to finish the work I took the week off. But I did manage to dig a really big hole in the garden. I am now totally knackered. I'm sure a few of you on here who have proper jobs are suitably unimpressed. Psyche is low. Meh.
Tyler - on 11 May 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally, AJM and biscuit

> I guess saturday's ming was all surface run off then, if it was drying back by the afternoon?

It was still pretty bad, similar to your photo but still a fair amount dry (people on Predeator, Raindogs, Power Ranger, Unjustified and even Baboo but that looked soaked) and obviously upper tier was in pretty good nick.
Post edited at 23:00
mrchewy - on 11 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Welcome to my world of late Matt! Don't beat yourself up about it, if you're not used to physical graft like that - it batters the hell out of you. Take a look at my Thursday...
Dandan82 - on 12 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt,
Just signing in, not much to report, i'm still kind of in Limbo at the moment waiting for my finger to sort it's life out.

Nina (the physio) has suggested no climbing for the next few weeks but to be honest I'm thinking about doing a little bit, for two reasons. Firstly, I read a lot about letting finger injuries heal with complete rest and then damaging them again as soon as you return to climbing because they are not used to it, I can see see how this could be the case so i'd be keen to do at least some easy stuff to keep things ticking along.
Secondly, i'm getting some kind of RSI-type pain in my left forearm, I've had all the Occy health assessment of my workstation and even got a new, sideways mouse, but it still seems to flare up when I am not climbing. My complete guesswork theory is that the climbing keeps the muscles exercised/strong/stretched enough to keep the RSI pain at bay, so for that reason i'd like to get back to climbing ASAP because although it's not debilitating in any way, the pain is a real, well, pain.

I did some cardio this week, I know it's nothing to you ultra runners but I did 4k on the treadmill which is utterly unheard of for me, the last time I ran 4k was probably 20 years ago! Took 21 minutes and I got a good sweat on but was by no means knackered, more bored than anything! I've no idea how that measures up with an actual fit person?

I need some psyche back so i'm going to try and do 3 gym sessions, finger exercises all week and then try a bit of climbing at the weekend, wish me luck!

Goonie - on 12 May 2014
In reply to AJM:

Yes indeed the very one!

Cheers for the ideas I will check them out! Statement would be awesome as well as cider soak but a bit far. Been on CS and done all but top bouldery move and it felt ok very sustained though! My style is more bouldery and steep though I do like some tech!

Cheers
AJM - on 12 May 2014
In reply to Goonie:

That's the motorway junction for my parents' house, plus I did the whole "school trip to Waltham abbey" thing when I was a kid.....
Alun - on 12 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Ta Matt. Gald you enjoyed the E4 article. Funny to think that it was almost 10 years ago now!

This week has been 100% rest. Good job too as I got hit by a bit of a cold over the weekend which got me very tired and saw me sleeping quite a bit.

Weight is still under 69kg though, the Giro d'Italia has got me psyched to go riding, and this weekend I may have a morning's sport climbing on the cards. So all is good!
Ally Smith on 12 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

LTG (End 2014):
- Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Montenegro?)
- Complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race (not intending to be competitive, but still need to start running up hills again!)

MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
- Buy a house and build some home training facilities – progressing nicely. Instructed solicitors this week.
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham (had a weird allergic reaction last time I went on the extension) – more progress. Shared beta making lots of difference.
- Recently found and done all the individual moves on a great looking 7C+/8A f8b-ish link-up FA; love to get this ticked!
- Bolt the Dinbren project (Luke Owens - thanks for the drill loan!)
- On-sight some E5s in prep for...
- Brandler-Hasse Cime Grande
- Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
- Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF – 75.1kg and 6.6% BF this morning

STG (The coming week)
- Keep physio’ing the shoulder
- Add in some elbow physio :(

Last week:
M - As per last week
T - Rest
W - Pantymwyn. Thug Mentality 7B+ tick after watching some Vimeo beta to avoid Mule’s silly campus beta.
T - Damp so went to Boardroom. 7c Gu on psicobloc, then bouldering. Not the aero-power session it should have been. Elbow getting a little sore.
F - Rest. Fast, flat 16miles on road bike with 3x 1min all out efforts to blow away the cobwebs.
S - Malham. Rose x2. Unjustified x3 dog. 1st time I’ve not needed the clip stick to get up it! Beta tweaks to make some clips possible – won’t have to skip as many on RP. Final clip and mantle also sorted now too. Skanky bolts still scare me though!
S - Morning of sprocket wrangling, then back to Pantymwyn. Fell off last move of Mental extension extension 7B+/C. 7A+ flash, 7B, 7A+ new ticks. Sore elbow by the end.
pork pie girl - on 12 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

cheers for doing FC Mattrm.

last week

6 x cardio .. all in gym aprt rom one mtb ride at end of the week
2x weights inc usual pull ups
5x core
loads of stretching (for me)
2x PE indoor bouldering
2x malham...thursday..led consenting and TR'd it for warm up, TP'd baboo and led it.. improvements for sure, didn't rest at every bolt to 'gather myself' but I'm still psyched out a bit with the grade and probably feel too appreciative of every bolt I manage to climb to and clip.. so i need to get over this...my head isn;'t allowing me to go all out on the lead yet,, but it will come. then more work on TR as still lacking consistency in linking. Sunday's session.. worked start of baboo (new dawn crux) up to the traverse into baboo for the morning.. 10 laps.. pretty much 10 successes as no falls or rests and that was with doing sets of two laps at a time with a few seconds rest between.. so got all that wired now.. in wet conditions. worked the crux of baboo in the afernoon and most of the headwall.. still feels hard and the clip off the flat hold is what's making it hardre for me right now.. once I get that bit extra needed to clip and climb through I ttink it'll start to come. move to the jug at the top is still marginal..reach dependent.. but doesn't put me off as i think adrenalin and excitemet on redpoint will make me do it. I htink a weeks off doing to but mega motivated and excited.. and working on it with totally motivated partner.. who I think will do it soon..inspiring :o)

PPG
Sankey - on 12 May 2014
In reply to mattrm: Two weeks to report: my training technique has settled into flailing around on 7b's. Due to the weather and lack of dry lines have been on three different projects now. Hopefully will settle down to a proper effort on one or two of them. Am off to Scotland for a couple of weeks now though, only climbing in the second week, and probably just some "fun" easy stuff, not placed gear on lead for a very long time...

Wk 1:

M:
T: Hill bike 16 miles
W:
T: The Edge - very poor session, an hour of failing on supposedly easy circuits
F:
S:
S:

Wk 2:

M: Kilnsey - on WYSWIG - remembering moves
T: Run 4.6 miles
W:
T: Matrix - stuff up to 6a
F:
S: Kilnsey - on sticky wicket - ditto
S:

STG: RP 7b

MTG: Cassin Route Piz Badille end July

LTG:

RPS: 6c (6) 6c+ (4) 7a (6) 7a+(2)

Goonie - on 12 May 2014
In reply to AJM:

Small world!! :-) so you got the last resting place of the arrow n the eye dude talk then!! I got married n that church!
Ally Smith on 12 May 2014
> Started the shoulder physio exercises The Fox showed me on Thursday and they're feeling back to normal already. Amazing! Going to keep them up for the foreseeable.

Please share; similar symptoms with my shoulders/elbows ATM (Is The Fox the other resident Stockport stamina lout?)

> Turns out my mate had only heard the word space when i asked him and i was on Space Race 7b+. So i'm happy again.

Yeah - that's a fingery one! Taking the space is a romp in comparison.
Ally Smith on 12 May 2014
In reply to Kevster:

> Also want to get Skeleton Ridge done, any experience here?

No experience, but could be keen for $hits and giggles!

Goonie - on 12 May 2014
In reply to AJM:

Haka Periapou looks amazing! But I think accessing it and conditions will be an issue! Do you know of anything worthwhile and with good access with a baby possibly in the Bristol South Wales area as that's 3 hours ish! Brean will be heaving and the 8a is a bit uninspiring and violent on the pulleys!!

Cheers mate
thebigfriendlymoose - on 12 May 2014
In reply to pork pie girl:

> .. and working on it with totally motivated partner.. who I think will do it soon..inspiring :o)

Is that Toby? He looked really good on Baboo last time I saw him (I was a bit annoyed by how steady he found the finish section after the slopey pinch, which I found desperately unnerving and tenuous).
mattrm - on 12 May 2014
In reply to Goonie:

Masada at Witches Point? It's about 1.5 hours from Bristol, roughly. However there is a mono on the crux. I think it's a nice line. I'll happily do belay duty. It's on a beach (but the route is non-tidal) and there's an ice-cream shop in the car park, so suspect that's baby & wife friendly. There is another new 8a there as well. I know the guidebook sez 8a+ but Ste Mc refered to them as 8as.
IainRUK - on 12 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for doing this again.. taper week, lots of short sharp work in prep for first 50 miler of the season

m: 5 miles at 7 pace am. pm: 10k treadmill at 6;20 pace
t; am; 5 miles at 7 pace. pm: easy track, 4 x 200s, 1 x 800, 1 x 600, 2 x 400 all at sub 5 pace
w: 3.5 miles at 8 pace
t; 3.5 miles at 6:20 pace in ohio
f: 9 mile trail run on the ice age route..
s: Ice Age 50 mile trail race. 7th 6:36
s: Nothing.. 12 hour drive back.. first day of no exercise since April 1st last year..

Race went well, was hoping for a Western States spot, top 3, but top class field, it was won by Olympian Max King (montrail sponsored, 2nd was a soloman sponsored 2:20 marathon runner,

The race preview is here: http://www.irunfar.com/2014/05/2014-ice-age-trail-50-mile-preview.html

So I knew it was going to be tough, felt off from the start but held in and finally after 20 miles felt good and pushed through the field to finish 7th, thought I'd run quicker but place wise I'd not have caught 6th Zach anyway. It was only 70F but early season heat always hurts, race report is here:
http://www.irunfar.com/2014/05/2014-ice-age-50-mile-results.html#idc-container

Class field with many stars DNFing due to a fast start and heat, I ran a sensible race, beat some good runners so pretty happy, hard racing a course you've never seen against experienced top runners but enjoyed it.
mbh - on 12 May 2014
In reply to IainRUK:

Iain doesn't say that he ran the first 6 miles or so at sub 7:00 pace! I can't do that easily for 1 mile, and struggle to do 10 miles at the pace he kept up for 50. Amazing performance.

The best thing about it is the mental approach you must have, Iain. When you have done six or seven miles at 7:00-ish pace, how do you cope with the thought of another 43 or so without being crushed by it?
pork pie girl - on 12 May 2014
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

hiya yeah I mean toby... he's a strong git though! I find those moves once i've got the pinch intense but ok.. just got to trust the feet. it will be about body type and height,.. i can just about reach the holds and Indon't feel scrunched up with the footwork that i expect you might've? amyway you've ticked it now.. so not an issue for you!!!
pork pie girl - on 12 May 2014
In reply to biscuit:

this has made me giggle!! least it was a grade harder than you thought rather than the other way round!funny! tell ye pal to clean his ears out!!
IainRUK - on 12 May 2014
In reply to mbh: Thanks

well my 100k and jfk50 paces were about 7:00 pace.. but this was undulating trails so it was a tad quick.. it was more being so far down the field. But you just have to run your own race and wait and see. I never really think about that 40+ miles just run 10 at a time.. run 10, then run to 20, then run to the marathon, then to 50k, then to when I have just a half to go... then to the last 10... then to the last 10k.. and just mentally bite off small chunks and just work through it.

Max's run was incredible, I couldn't run 50 on the road in 5:40 never mind 50 on those trails. probably one of the most impressive runs I've ever seen.

report on the blog here: http://iainsrunning.blogspot.com/2014/05/ice-age-50-miler.html
mbh - on 12 May 2014
In reply to IainRUK:
100 k at 7:00 pace. I am trying to process that. I think it is the mental state required for the every day running needed for the months if not years that that takes that most impresses me.

I can relate to the way you cope with a long run. I try to emphasise the positives, so think on what I have done rather than on what remains, if near the beginning, and as the time goes by, think of all the runs I have done that were further or faster than what remains. Mind you, I take 10 m+ runs 0.1 m at a time.

50 m in 5:40 on trails is quite amazing.
Post edited at 15:37
Goonie - on 12 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Hi Matt

That crag looks great and perfect kid and wife material! Think I will be able to blah that one though isn't Bridgend meant to be "lovely"!!
mattrm - on 12 May 2014
In reply to Goonie:
> Hi Matt

> That crag looks great and perfect kid and wife material! Think I will be able to blah that one though isn't Bridgend meant to be "lovely"!!

There's a lovely walled garden as well, which is great for family when it's a bit blowy on the beach, or if you know you're going to get cut-off. The tide cuts the crag section of the beach off for a couple of hours at high tide. Not ideal to get stuck there with a small kid. Also if people are sitting on the beach cut off, they often call out the lifeboat. They know climbers are ok so tend not to call out the RNLI (that's not to say I've not been climbing only to find the lifeboat hailing us to check we're ok). You can climb out up a 5+, which you can easily bolt to bolt quickly.

You do know where I live don't you? Bridgend (or as I like to call it from time to time, Bogend) is 15 mins from Witches. I live 15 mins from Witches...

It's not really much worse than many of the other lovely places locally. There's nice parts and naff parts. The town center can be annoying mid-week when it's packed out with skiving pikeys (go politically correct me!). I was surprised how grim large chunks of Bristol were last time I went there.
Post edited at 16:13
biscuit - on 12 May 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Please share; similar symptoms with my shoulders/elbows ATM (Is The Fox the other resident Stockport stamina lout?)

Yes that's him. I can show you rather than explain - it'd take ages. He may be able to point you in the direction of a you tube vid or similar. It really works though. I was crippled the other day and feel fine now.

> Yeah - that's a fingery one! Taking the space is a romp in comparison.

Good to know, both from the point of view that my finger was OK with it (ish) and it felt like it'd definitely go with another session or 2.

biscuit - on 12 May 2014
In reply to pork pie girl:

> this has made me giggle!! least it was a grade harder than you thought rather than the other way round!funny! tell ye pal to clean his ears out!!

It was quite a good feeling after being a bit pissed off at my lack of performance ;-)

thebigfriendlymoose - on 12 May 2014
In reply to pork pie girl:

> hiya yeah I mean toby... he's a strong git though! I find those moves once i've got the pinch intense but ok.. just got to trust the feet. it will be about body type and height,.. i can just about reach the holds and Indon't feel scrunched up with the footwork that i expect you might've? amyway you've ticked it now.. so not an issue for you!!!

Toby is a beast - he doesn't register getting the small right hand undercut you use to gain the pinch as a hard move (which I found very powerful).

Sounds like you're getting close yourself though. Surprised that you plan to resume top-roping after sessions on lead. I've had bitter experience of top-roping resulting in false beta (re clipping and mental and physical cruxes), so now always strive to work on lead once I know I'm capable of reliably climbing between bolts (so don't have fears of getting marooned and having to abandon gear). Besides, I need the prospect of fluking a successful RP to keep me going some days! And, you never know, occasionally you can surprise yourself (I got both Baboo and Raindogs on "4th try of the day, just a gear retrieval mission for the sake of fitness" type goes).
JimmyKay - on 12 May 2014
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

Noticed your rapid tick of baboo baboo on the logbook pages when I was eyeing up conditions. Good effort.
thebigfriendlymoose - on 12 May 2014
In reply to JimmyKay:

Cheers, I'm grateful to have bagged it before the recent heavy rain - otherwise I'd have got frustrated waiting for it to dry and likely lost "feel" for the tenuous, techy final section.

Good route but a hard one to assess difficulty-wise - it felt hard but went quicker than expected. The crux is heinous (F7a/+?) and the climbing after quite demanding but the rest at the roof tufas is so damn good (and a route with the hard bit preceded by a decent rest is right up my street, having the New Dawn start already wired undoubtedly helped too). The original 7c+ feels stiff, but compared to my epic siege of Raindogs...... Think I'll go with whatever the current consensus is!
ads.ukclimbing.com
Ally Smith on 12 May 2014
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

It's 8a! The crux is harder than anything on either GBH or Zoolook.
thebigfriendlymoose - on 12 May 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

But I'm having more trouble on Man With a Gun at Kilnsey and that's 7c+! I'll have to wait until I tick Zoolook and GBH to made an informed comparison... well that's the rest of my life mapped out!
Kevster - on 12 May 2014
In reply to Goonie:

Goonie: If its 8a/+ then at least you know you've got an 8a, none of the "its only 7c+" niggles that some soft routes attract.

Ally: RE Skeleton ridge, will keep you in mind, will see how the outstanding invites shake down first though as I assume there is a max of people possible in a day (only got 2 others game for it so far, and haven't invited the world). I'll aim to organise once I'm back from Spain at the end of the month. Will keep you posted.
AJM - on 12 May 2014
In reply to Goonie:

Well, I don't think there are any 8s on the valleys sandstone or in the Wye valley. Matt has mentioned the only one I can think of on the limestone unless you go to Dinas, which has loads I think but is a lot further (and god knows how many of them are 8a - I have never been but the impression I get is definitely of some softies)

In Bristol there's Academic, rough path to approach but I think then some flat space at the base if the kid is still in the non mobile stage.

Of the ones at Cheddar I suppose whatever is meant to actually be 8a these days on the Wave (don't really know I never really looked - not really my sort of projects, too short so too hard) or Right Hand Man or Just Say No at the Remnant (plus anything considered 8a on Lion Rock - the finish up the arête right of shadow walker?) are probably the ones with the easiest child access. The bottom of pride Evans is a bit more faffy, especially on the left where I think most of them are, Spacehunter/sunset definitely impractical, I guess there's maybe the roadside stuff at swine cliff too?
Paul Baxter - on 12 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

So, I'm new to having formal goals and targets rather than just climbing, but I feel the need to try to be a bit more structured in aiming for my goals. So here goes...

STGs:
Get weight to <69kg
Lead an HVS at Pembroke (Late May BH)
Improve confidence on multiple VS leads

MTGs:
Progress to leading HVS at multiple different venues (types of rock etc)
Indoor (Big Rock MK) - lead 7a's


LTG:
Big rambly mountain routes in VS/HVS range (possibly in Morocco)

Last Weeks progress - mainly recovering after 4 days bouldering at Font
Mon - Bouldering for ~ 4 hours before long drive back to UK
Tue - rest, regrow finger skin
Wed - mainly rest, some slacklining
Thu - rest
Fri - rest, wanted to do something by work+Font had be knackered
Sat - Heavy gardening all day
Sun - weather put me off the peak, so ~5 hour session at the indoor wall. Felt properly recovered - flashed a 6c, tried a 7a but failed.

Plan for this week - much more climbing with usual sessions + Yoga on Friday. Hope the weather is better by the weekend.
Kevster - on 12 May 2014
In reply to Paul Baxter:

Welcome to Fitclub Paul,
I look forward to seeing your trad grade progress. Indoor 7a, though equates poorly to trad, I think you have space to grow! Good luck.
Joughton on 12 May 2014
In reply to Ally Smith: Cheers Ally, yes My Piano isn't one I'm looking at for the foreseeable future!

Could you estimate a sport grade for Gathering Sun, or a boulder grade for the hardest moves?

Also have you any experience of Tombola or Yukan II?
Ally Smith on 12 May 2014
In reply to Joughton:
Gathering Sun is probably 7b+ to top rope, but maybe pushed up to 7c to lead placing the gear (proper outdoor sport grades, not sandbag Stockport wall grades!)

Crux is maybe V4? Some weird undercutting in the middle for me, other find the top reach/crimp the crux; if you're >5'10" this won't be the crux!

TR'd Tombola a few years ago; maybe 7a+/b? Memory is a bit fuzzy.

Lots of poor gear up to the break - something might hold!?!
Lots of reasonable gear in the break to protect the move up to the peg; crux above. Peg has been tested recently with no ill effects.

No experience of Yukan II - saving it for a flash!
Post edited at 20:43
Ali - on 12 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for doing Fit Club again Matt!

M - Reported last week
T - Rest
W - Biscuit Factory - felt pretty tired and achey still from the weekend - warmed up, and then did some power endurance circuits
T - Run to work - more of a plod!
F - Rest
S - 20min run in park and some sit ups
S - Biscuit Factory - good long session, warmed up well and managed to get some good problems including a couple of v4s on the comp wall and an (easy) v5. Spent 45mins trying to work out one blocker move on a v5 which would have been fine if I had an extra inch of height...grrrr...
Goonie - on 12 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

Sorry mate I didnt know In all honesty i come from a pretty politically incorrect town in the industrial heartland of Scotland, i wasnt being serious with the scenery locals etc after all i do climb at Dumby when i cross back over the wall.

I am dead interested to check it out and thanks to everyone else for the sugestions, it always amazes me how much stuff their is out there that i had no idea about hence why i asked.
mattrm - on 12 May 2014
In reply to mrchewy:
> Welcome to my world of late Matt! Don't beat yourself up about it, if you're not used to physical graft like that - it batters the hell out of you. Take a look at my Thursday...

I knew it would be hard, but I didn't think it would be that hard. How you can do that and then climb afterwards, I do not know. I finished up at 5 on Thursday and promptly fell asleep for 1/2 hour. Thursday was the worst. Friday was ok, paced it a bit better.

AJM - I have a list of all the 8as in South Wales. There's about 4 at Dinas. There's about 3/4 on the Gower (iirc 2 at Foxhole, 1 at Paviland and 1 at Rhosili) and then there's the two at Witches Point. If you fancy some new routing I think there are some possible 8as in the valleys. There's a 7c+ on one crag which needs a direct finish, which might make it 8a iirc. But otherwise there aren't any in the Valleys. None in the Wye that I'm aware of.

Which ones at Dinas are soft (just for future reference)?

Goonie - Witches is generally fairly quiet as well. Don't worry about dissing Bridgend, I do that lots. The middle of town is a bit crap really. But the surrounding countryside is generally really nice to be honest. Also it's good for work. And Ogmore is 15 minutes away, with good trad, good sport and ok bouldering, so what more could I want?

PPG - Did I miss you? Sorry if I did.

Paul - Welcome to FC.

Sankey - had wondered where you were.

biscuit - Get a phone out, take a video of the exercise and show us.

Dandan - Nina sez no climbing, then do that!
Post edited at 21:41
JimmyKay - on 12 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

H1N1 is supposed to be pretty borderline.
Just Tintin - on 13 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks again Matt, and everyone for chipping in on sessions vs routes. I shall target 100 sessions on real rock this year and hope that coming into the obsessive category helps me catch up with the 8a club!

M – Trad Higgar Tor including the interestingly graded Jupiter’s Slab at HVS 6a – bold and technical low crux but a breeze compared to the fight I’d had warming up on the VDiff!
T – Rest
W – Lead Brookes. Warm up x6 routes up to 6b+ onsight. Worked red 7a+ - all but one move. Slight niggle in right elbow when I got home, but only when holding mugs or glasses.
T – Rest
F - Rest
S – Boulder Woolwich Reach. 13 green (vb-1) 21 blue (v1-3) 2 yellow (v3,v4) Attempts at 2 further v4s but couldn’t find a short person solution to a move which requires humping a Christmas tree volume…
S – Lead Woolwich Reach. 12 routes up to 6c onsight including some technical slab work (my least favourite). Cramped out in right forearm on next route so called it a day.

Revised short term goals (May)
1. Add more cardio sessions to programme to ensure better stamina (Hope this will show in long leads)
2. Train antagonists – at least one bench press session per week
3. Put together all the 7as at Brookes
4. Make climbing partner do his physio and rehab

Medium term goals (June/July)
1. Book some trips outside UK
2. Get on rock as much as possible (100 sessions in 2014)
3. Learn to embrace failure (not sure this will ever happen)
4. Consolidate finger strength programme

Long term goals (2014)
Trad: Rack up E1 onsights. Lead E2. Second harder routes whenever there is opportunity.
Sport: Solid at 6b/6c outdoors, pushing 7a indoors ready for Yangshuo trip
Bouldering: Solid at V2/V3 outdoors. Working V4/V5 indoors.
Running: Improve on Kielder Marathon time in October
Post edited at 08:36
AJM - on 13 May 2014
In reply to JimmyKay:

I'd heard that too.

Matt - in general I'm a bit suspicious of quite new things without many ascents, which includes most of the Dinas 8as, partly because 8a is such a round number and sounds so much better than 7c+, and partly because of experience at Brean etc (and hearing H1N1 described as a V5 into a 7a or something stupid like that - whilst I'm sure that's an exaggeratedly easy description that would imply 7b+ or so rather than 8a!)
Tyler - on 13 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

I can't help thinking that Fit Club is getting a bit too fixated with 8a. And this is from someone who has an 8a.nu account, 8a tattoo, 8a personalised number plate and called their first son Aytay. You are forcing me to say something I never thought I'd say, "it's just a grade!"
Ally Smith on 13 May 2014
In reply to Tyler:

Wasn't your recent project a 7c+?
And the next step up is...

Pot, kettle, black?
Tyler - on 13 May 2014
In reply to Ally Smith:

GBH obviously, building a pyramid is so 2000's. Actually my real project is trad on Saturday and then getting to work on the rest of the Yorkshire Triple Clown (Ashes and Cave Route Left) hence my moral indignation!
Nick Russell on 13 May 2014
In reply to Tyler:
> I can't help thinking that Fit Club is getting a bit too fixated with 8a.

Maybe, I'm sure it will pass. I think there's just quite a few of us on here at the moment who have just had the revelation that maybe it's possible...
Dandan82 - on 13 May 2014
In reply to Nick Russell:

I've been chasing the damn grade for 5 years or more! (admittedly the first couple of years I was probably dreaming)
I just want to get it out of my system so I can move on with my (climbing) life! :)
pork pie girl - on 13 May 2014
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

noted re leading.. going on the sharp end again this week and will try and make longer links .. agree about the false beta..
ads.ukclimbing.com
pork pie girl - on 13 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

it's not a problem mate :o)
pork pie girl - on 13 May 2014
In reply to biscuit:

you'll have to get tricked into doing it again ... get on raindogs.. it's only 7b :o)
thebigfriendlymoose - on 13 May 2014
In reply to pork pie girl:

> noted re leading.. going on the sharp end again this week and will try and make longer links .. agree about the false beta..

Good stuff..... I reckon top-roping can lead to you underestimating your maximal ability. A route that's unattainable on top-rope might actually be within the realms of a red-point tick. You might already be capable of bagging Baboo but you're unaware of it because top-roping has made it too easy to give up.

I personally find an extra few percent from the commitment of a red-point go. Even if I'm going up with very low expectations, just to "work" the route, I often do much better than expected - bag it or manage a key, confidence-boosting link. I suspect mainly due my my own cowardice and laziness: a fervent desire not to fall or not to have to do a particularly fraught sequence ever again!
Nick Russell on 13 May 2014
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

> Even if I'm going up with very low expectations, just to "work" the route, I often do much better than expected

I've had success on this sort of attempt, less pressure on yourself.

mattrm - on 13 May 2014
In reply to Tyler:

Meh. My main reason for wanting to sport climb the harder stuff, is to make trad feel easier. Also the low grade sport routes are generally awful. Also saying I can climb 8a is nice on the boasting scale.

AJM - I'm all about the easy ticks. Still I suspect when I get round to trying an 8a in a year or two, it'll be Masada as that's 15 minutes from my front door. Assuming I can actually get the volume of climbing in needed to get up to that level.

Just Tintin - nice solid achievable goals.
Luke Owens - on 13 May 2014
In reply to mattrm: Cheers Matt.

Big week for me last week, Sale completed on my first house purchase! Got the key's on Friday. Busy this week decorating.

With being so busy looking after the little one and house stuff I've been limited to bouldering lately. missing the rope but feeling a lot stronger and really enjoying it

Monday: Hope Mountain with the little one. Did 5 repeats up to 6B+ and had a few goes on the 7A+.

Tuesday: Pantymwyn, Did Faith Healer Variation (7A) after a few goes. Ally reckons it's 6C, I'm crap on pinches and it felt nails for me. Had loads of goes on Gasoline (7A+) good progress on it.

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Rest - Had planned to go to Dinbren but it poured down...

Friday: Pantymwyn, Few goes on Panty's Down, felt strong but then mates went over to some sandbag 7A and I got sucked into trying it, no one could do it...

Saturday: Decorating new house

Sunday: Decorating and then headed to the slate in the afternoon, wet through... so after ~2 hours on faff ended up at the Rhiw Goch boulders. Quality venue, flashed a soft 6C and fell off latching the dyno finish on White Rider (7A+) about 6 times, so damn close but ran out of skin... Heading back next Thursday!
Si Cox - on 14 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

> mattrm - Climbing is but a distant memory.

> Si Cox - :( Hope the finger gets well soon.

> Think I've got everyone there. Good week for everyone. Well done.

Hi Matt,

Thanks for doing the stats. That's an impressive amount of physical graft you've been doing; what's it for? Apologies if you've already said...

I'm up for doing the stats again, but let me know which spots are open and I'll confirm.

The finger is doing well actually. Not as badly injured as I initially feared, as the pain is disappearing gradually and I'm not noticing the twinges in everyday activity.

Still, I'm going to rest it properly until mid-June, which I can't avoid, as I'll be working out of the country. Need to get hold of a grip trainer, though, to rehabilitate the finger strength. Any suggestions?

Otherwise, the enforced rest has been good for the niggles and general recuperation. Think I was a bit run-down and susceptible recently.
mbh - on 14 May 2014
In reply to Nick Russell:

Often, the idea of a 10 mile or more run is too awful to behold at the outset, particularly if I visualize the actual route, so to make myself get out at all, in my mind I set the target distance to be really low, like 3 miles, then find that once I am out, this can easily become 4, 6, 8 and then 10 miles.
grubes - on 15 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:
> grubes - Rest week. Well deserved.
Thanks Matt. Another recovery week of sorts.

STG (June of 2014):
Lose 8kg
A new tick at malham
Climb 6A in font - tick
MTG (End of 2014):
Lead E2 try onsight
7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Go to El Chorro
LTG (June of 2015):
Visit Kalymnos, catalunya and somewhere adventurous

This week's goals:
Not ride my bike - Tick
Climb - Tick
Recover - Tickish

M: rest
T: Drove to cambridge PM
W: Drove from cambridge to Font.
Climbed at elephant.
First 6A in the forest spent most of the rest of the afternoon working a 6C and tried two other 6A's
T: Climbed at Isatis.
Did quite a few different things best was an off circuit problem called Captain Nemo
F: Mercier.
Climbed lots of stuff tried Le NEZ. made some progress but really not my style. easier day few reds and blues ticked and a few oranges.
S: Sabots.
Wet day climbed between showers a few blues tried a 7A came close but it kept raining and I decided to rest instead.
S: Bas Cuvier.
Climbed another 6A amoungst other things.
Had a good session on la Marie rose and would of got it in better conditions.

Next week Goals:
Rest
Climb again at the weekend

Had an amazing time in the forest as always. best trip yet will complete the rest of my week next week.
I was still pretty broken from my bike ride and definately held me back.
grubes - on 15 May 2014
In reply to Ali:

how did your eating challenge go?
thebigfriendlymoose - on 15 May 2014
In reply to mattrm:

by the way, sorry to be off-topic but I am getting desperate.... If anyone needs a belay for Yorkshire bolt-clipping (Malham or Kilnsey for preference) send me a message. Happy to give lifts from Ilkley-ish area.

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