UKC

Which would be the best crags to visit over 7 days bearing in mind the following:

It will be in August so shady crags might be helpful/essential.
I want some 4's and 5's for Little Ent
6a - 7a for me. Classic routes?
Where to stay?
Other activities (family stuff)
Via Ferratas?


Cheers,

E

In reply to Enty:

Have a look at this place, a short drive out of Finalborgo.
Close to Monte Cucco (and therefore shade).
Great food.

Colin
big Buis fan
we'll be there again in 3 weeks time

http://www.lasosta.liguria.it/ristorante-finale-ligure.htm

In reply to Enty:

Camping Terre Rosse is quite good, easy access to the climbing from the back, no need to go down to the coast road.
Another recommend for the restaurant mentioned above.

At most beaches you have to pay, and parking is a rip off. I recommend driving down into Varigotti early in the morning, pay for a parking slot in town, and use the free, communal beach.

Grabbing some food from the excellent bakery and going for a coffee in one of the cafes in town will still be cheaper than having breakfast at the campground and then pay for parking/beach access.

There is an excellent crag with some nice 4s and 5s (can't find the guidebook right now) that has access through a cave. Easy to find in the guidebook, though. My children loved climbing there, anyway there is not too much else at these low grades. As you walk towards the cave from the obvious place to park, there also is a fantastic shady route on a free standing pillar to the left, with a beautiful long crack/flake at something around 6b.

Cheers,

CB

In reply to cb294:

when you've found the guidebook I'd be interested to know which crag you're referring to...I'm thumbing through the guide as we speak and haven't found it yet!
Colin

In reply to CPH:

Haven't found the guidebook, but the first crag you pass should be called Il Pilastro, the cave possibly Grotta del Strapatente (spelling?). The good childrens crag can be reached by going through the cave, and then right until you cross to the other side of the valley. No idea what this is called, though.

CB

In reply to Enty:

Cheers everyone.

Just a quick one. My mate just said half of Italy was there in August when he passed through and he had a nightmare. Couldn't even get a restaurant table in the vening anywhere.

Is it that bad?

Cheers,

E

In reply to Enty:

Yer mates right, shouldn't bother a dingle!

In reply to john ryden:


So it's full of Dingles? That's me out then.

E

In reply to Enty:




'C'MON YOU CLARETS'! The Premiership welcomes, Dingles and all.

Al

In reply to Enty:

You could try the world's hardest 7a at Monte Cucco...might be called Baci something (not sure) but it's recognisable from the tat at 3/4 height that everybody lowers off after DNf'ing. A guy told me afterwards that the only person he has seen onsight it was Patrick Berhault sometime in the 90's.

Beware some of the more modern crags can be hard to find, though the new guide may have improved things. Can be worth it for more friendly bolting and less polish. L'Avocatto at Silenzio is a good newer 7a, and this crag has some good 6's as well.

In reply to Enty:

Hi Enty:

I will only add one amazing place to climb (or at least to see on rest day). It is sector Grotta dell'edera. Just see the pictures on the web and you will understand. You can either abseil there or go through a cave which is really very nice...nothing demanding. 5 minutes to get there, take your headtorch...but the moment when you enter the amphiteatr is breathtaking. At least for me it was

have a good time

adam