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Topic - Bolts? This goes further back.

j0ntyg on 13 May 2014

"With reference to the summer issue of Mountain Craft, October 1968, Keith McCallum, in his article on Lake District climbing, would seem to imply that the local climbers of Lakeland are incompetent to do good new routes. it also suggests that Paul Ross over graded his new routes. I have seen numerous good climbers including Alan Austin and top Welsh climbers spend many hours on these 'over graded' climbs. The climbs that Austin put up in the Lakes are very poor. He is good but not a god as his fans suggest. Many of the pitons that were used in the 60's 70's in the lakes were used to clean the routes and then removed. Few Lakes climbers carry metal wire protection devices which can be removed and so show no evidence of aid. Pitons tend to be there for a long time, unless you are poor and must hammer them in then out again to use again."
This is a précis of a letter, 1968. remember that cams were not widespread back then. Only pegs and nuts.

Post edited at 19:15
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