UKC

Ardnamurchan Climbing

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Al Clark 14 May 2014
To Ardnamurchan at end of June, Looking for advice on best cragging/routes up to HVS. Thanks in advance
 AlH 14 May 2014
In reply to Al Clark:

Meall An Fhir Eoin Beag/Mor area has great routes and rock. Yir (2 pitch VS), Claude (single pitch HVS/VS5a), Great Gabbro (single pitch VS4c-soft), Vulcan (2 pitch VS), Ring of Fire (HVS 5a), Crater Comforts (2 pitch VS-soft) Krakatoa (Hooded Wall, single pitch HVS 5b and Volcane (E14c,5b) is a very amenable E1. Its definitely 'Ardnamurchan popular end'. Pics http://alanhalewood.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/no-finger-prints-left-but-happy-...
The Apron Slabs (Meall Meadhoin in UKC Logbooks) also has great things to go at too. Ne'er Day Corner (VS), Glendrian Corner (VS), Seabhraic (HVS) and Leac Glas (HS, probably only 4a but first pitch is run out) are all grand 2 pitch routes. The rock isn't quite as good in places as MAFEB above but nearly. Pics http://alanhalewood.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/home-to-rough-hot-rock.html
For the most part the rock is so sticky its not true. Gear is good and small to medium cams useful. There is a lifetime of bouldering to go at and lots of exploring to be one too. Take shoes and chalk bag for a day, leave the guidebook in the car and enjoy.
 oscaig 14 May 2014
In reply to Al Clark:

Yep - some fantastic cragging on peerless rock. AIH's list looks like a very good start and I'd only add Fear of Flying (airy but straightforward VS) and Etna (at E1 5b but with a short crux). I also quite enjoyed High Plains Drifter (VS 5a) and Ozone Layer (HVS 5a) at Sgurr nan Gabhar - tough bouldery starts but the good climbing does end after 10-15m. Hope you get some good weather as it's a magical spot climbing on the crags that make up the ring of the great caldera and the views out to the islands are wonderful.

Cheers
Al Clark 15 May 2014
In reply to Al Clark:

Thanks you both for your recomendations, I have had a boulder/solo on the ring crags but fingers crossed I will get a few days of routes on that crazy rock.

Thanks again
 Andy Say 15 May 2014
In reply to AlH:

> Meall An Fhir Eoin Beag/Mor area has great routes and rock. Yir (2 pitch VS), Claude (single pitch HVS/VS5a), Great Gabbro (single pitch VS4c-soft), Vulcan (2 pitch VS), Ring of Fire (HVS 5a), Crater Comforts (2 pitch VS-soft) Krakatoa (Hooded Wall, single pitch HVS 5b and Volcane (E14c,5b)

The last one looks a bit of a serious issue, Alan!
 AlH 15 May 2014
In reply to Andy Say:

LOL let me reinstate the gap…. Volcane E1 4c,5b!
 Davy Virdee 15 May 2014
In reply to Al Clark:
Approach from Fascadale for Meall Meadhoin is far quicker.

Be aware of any nesting wildlife.

Also serious checks for Tic.
Post edited at 10:15
In reply to Al Clark: Useful thread. I'm going to be there at the end of May so I'll use these and feedback any other useful stuff.

Al Clark 22 May 2014
In reply to Al Clark:

Thanks again folk, I have the guidebook..now to plan my trip.
 veteye 22 May 2014
In reply to Al Clark:
Would agree with the comment of the friction of the rock.It is like the best of Sron na Ciche.I climbed mostly in my new(as they were then)Mont Blanc big boots.There was just one slabby VS that I swapped to my rock boots.
Longish walk in,but well worth it.Would like to go again.
We also did new routes that were not in the guide book.

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