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which mammut half ropes? genisis, galaxy, meteor?

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stupot2 15 May 2014
Ok, im in the market for half ropes, iv just about narrowed it down to mammut as i know a few people who have them. Tough and durable. I like the sound of that.
Has anyone had or have used the meteor,genesis or galaxy range??
I want 60m ropes.mostly be useing as quarrys, multipitch and sea cliffs.
 lcullum7 15 May 2014
In reply to stupot2:

Do you mean the galaxy range? My Mammut Galaxy is a 10mm Single rope...
 CurlyStevo 15 May 2014
In reply to stupot2:

Genesis are pretty much the defacto half ropes IMO. They aren't the most supple but they are supple & light enough, very strong and very abrassion resistent. The dry treatement is also pretty good. In most cases they go on well past 5 years (if you still trust them).
 drolex 15 May 2014
In reply to stupot2:

I have a pair of genesis, very happy with them. Tough and durable indeed. The only downside I can see is that the sheath is on the smooth side, I am adding a bit extra friction when abseiling but nothing terrible.
 kyaizawa 15 May 2014
In reply to stupot2:

Really not a fan of the Genesis - dislike the stiffness and hence clumsy-feeling handling, but I think that's more a problem with Mammut rope treatment (not specifically the Genesis), as it's the same with the superdry Galaxy. Though I suppose that's where the durability comes from... Used Edelrid, Beal and Tendon halves (probably others as well) and I think I liked the Mammuts the least.
 John2 15 May 2014
In reply to stupot2:

I use Mammut Phoenix as half ropes, which are lighter than any of your suggestions but seem to last and handle very well.
 John Kelly 16 May 2014
In reply to John2:

Plus one
stupot2 16 May 2014
In reply to drolex:

Thanks for that, do you mean slippery as in slick and smooth or that they kind of crush or flatten if you know what i mean?
A freind has a 10mm classic and its awfull,too slick and kind of soft which makes belaying hard work. Especially holding them whilst they are resting!
stupot2 16 May 2014
In reply to stupot2:

Thanks for input guys, i have narrowed it down to the genisis for now. But would like to find a shop that sells them to see how they feel.

We are useing galaxys 9mm which are really good tough ropes but cant find them anywhere.....
Also........50 or 60m??
Iv always used 50s and not had a problem with length for routes and abbing off.
Do we really need 60s??
 gethin_allen 16 May 2014
In reply to stupot2:

The genesis ropes are great, I've never been at all concerned about the handling. 60 m ropes can allow you to run pitches together which is useful in the winter to minimise time getting cold belaying.
 drolex 16 May 2014
In reply to stupot2:

As in slick, but nothing to be concerned about. I know some people who don't like that, but it's more a question of feeling than handling issues, really. Personally I don't like extremely rough ropes - each to his own
 Otis 16 May 2014
In reply to stupot2:

I asked a similar 50 vs 60m question a month or two ago and got some good replies (do a search!). I ended up going for 50m genesis-not used them too much yet so can't give a review, but on initial impression they're fine.

Mike.
stupot2 16 May 2014
In reply to Otis:

How were they through the belay otis? And tieing off? I believe some people have concerns about them.
Urban rock are doing them for £200.
 Otis 16 May 2014
In reply to stupot2:

Here's a couple of my recent threads that may be of use:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=581735
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=586497

I've only had one trip out with them so far and havedone some leading, lowering and abseiling on them so far. Have belayed a second up, but not belayed a leader.

They were fairly slick through the belay device. However, I was using a Bug, with 8.5mm being right at the bottom of it's operating range (see second postabove ). I've bought a Bugette to give a bit more bite to the belay.

Tying off was fine - not sure what the concern would be if you do a decent knot? Out of the bag they are a bit wiry and slippy feeling (probably to do with the dry coating I'm guessing) but a few people have mentioned that this eases once they see a bit of use.... which is exactly what I have planned for them this weekend

Mike.

 Nathan Adam 16 May 2014
In reply to stupot2:

I have the meteor half ropes in 60m and have no complaints with them. Handle very well and seem to be holding up pretty decent too. Obviously the 60m length has its issues on shorter pitches but for bigger mountain routes (the Ben/big faces on Skye) then they really come into their own.
stupot2 17 May 2014
In reply to stupot2:

Hey thanks very much for your input and advice lads, its a good community this

Im on for the genisis as theyl be mostly used for quarrys and multipitch.

Just need to get them ordered..........
Il put my opinion on them on here if anyone might be interested!

 CurlyStevo 17 May 2014
In reply to Otis:
The reason they are stiff is the sheath is very thick and tightly woven this is also the reason the are so durable. One plus side is I've found the stiffer the rope the less the tangle!

I bet you find the buggette too grabby on the genesis especially as the ropes age. As mentioned the ATC xp is a much better belay device on the genesis and has the plus point of also allowing you to abseil and belay on standard width lines (unlike the bugette you won't even get a 10 mm rope in to it).
Post edited at 07:31

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