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And I mean ones which you finish thinking that life just does not get any better and that you could die happy that night.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Wrecker's Slab. Always done it in good weather, never anyone else around, and you can charge up this huge slab of rock feeling a lot ether than you actually are!
Wrecker's Slab. Always done it in good weather, never anyone else around, and you can charge up this huge slab of rock feeling a lot ether than you actually are!
In reply to Robert Durran:
Pink juggy epic (route 30) at The Climbing Unit's opening night 2 months ago. It's gone now.
Pink juggy epic (route 30) at The Climbing Unit's opening night 2 months ago. It's gone now.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Dying sounds a bit extreme, but most recently, topping out on whither whether. 9pm, the only person on the hill, late sunshine. Stood still for a good sixty seconds of roaring silence before running down to glen Croe.
Dying sounds a bit extreme, but most recently, topping out on whither whether. 9pm, the only person on the hill, late sunshine. Stood still for a good sixty seconds of roaring silence before running down to glen Croe.
In reply to alan moore:
Nice! After school? If you fancy any similar exploits in the next two week, get in touch. I need to get fit.
Nice! After school? If you fancy any similar exploits in the next two week, get in touch. I need to get fit.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Most recently Sumo and Temple of Doom last summer, but pulling over the final jugs of Steeple always puts a big lasting smile on my face. Also, I never tire of doing The Screamer at Reiff - everything is perfection about that route.
Most recently Sumo and Temple of Doom last summer, but pulling over the final jugs of Steeple always puts a big lasting smile on my face. Also, I never tire of doing The Screamer at Reiff - everything is perfection about that route.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Millstone HVS's - generally safe as houses, long routes for grit and just lovely movement, I know i'm going well after leading 2 or 3 of these in a session.
A quick solo of heaven crack at Stanage after you've been beasting yourself all day.
Bracket and slab, Gimmer. I've took several noobs up and the joy comes from seeing their faces at the top, you know you've given them something that'll stay with them forever, a proper mountain experience.
Good thread!
Millstone HVS's - generally safe as houses, long routes for grit and just lovely movement, I know i'm going well after leading 2 or 3 of these in a session.
A quick solo of heaven crack at Stanage after you've been beasting yourself all day.
Bracket and slab, Gimmer. I've took several noobs up and the joy comes from seeing their faces at the top, you know you've given them something that'll stay with them forever, a proper mountain experience.
Good thread!
In reply to Robert Durran:
Terrier's Tooth (before it was damaged)
Crackstone Rib
Gimmer Crack
Delstree
Vector
Kafoozalem
Traveller in Time
Terrier's Tooth (before it was damaged)
Crackstone Rib
Gimmer Crack
Delstree
Vector
Kafoozalem
Traveller in Time
In reply to Robert Durran:
Me too - I belayed a mate on that and he felt the same.
E
> Yes, I can imagine dying happy after doing that!
Me too - I belayed a mate on that and he felt the same.
E
In reply to Robert Durran:
Torbay DWS traverses - I don't think I will ever tire of them. On balance I'll go for Oz Wall Traverse since I always fall off Rainbow Bridge.
Torbay DWS traverses - I don't think I will ever tire of them. On balance I'll go for Oz Wall Traverse since I always fall off Rainbow Bridge.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Kirkus Climb Direct - Clogwyn yr Oen in the Moelwyn's.
Got to be one of the best routes ever (was my first ever proper rock climn in '85 and must have done it over 50 times !!)
Great Slab - Cloggy (nuff said !!)
Kirkus Climb Direct - Clogwyn yr Oen in the Moelwyn's.
Got to be one of the best routes ever (was my first ever proper rock climn in '85 and must have done it over 50 times !!)
Great Slab - Cloggy (nuff said !!)
In reply to Tom Valentine:
Beat me to it! Sun on your back, solo classic
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
>
> Red Wall, Porthclais.
>
> Red Wall, Porthclais.
Beat me to it! Sun on your back, solo classic
In reply to Robert Durran:
Quite a lot shorter than many of the routes that have been mentioned already, and I've only done it once, but I found Croton Oil at Rivelin to be incredibly satisfying - fun moves, good exposure, and, of course, it's a pinnacle!
I and my regular Peaks partner have already agreed that a repeat ascent is mandatory whenever we find ourselves in the area.
Quite a lot shorter than many of the routes that have been mentioned already, and I've only done it once, but I found Croton Oil at Rivelin to be incredibly satisfying - fun moves, good exposure, and, of course, it's a pinnacle!
I and my regular Peaks partner have already agreed that a repeat ascent is mandatory whenever we find ourselves in the area.
In reply to DBoothroyd:
Even shorter than Croton Oil, but latching the top of Wings of Unreason felt pretty joyous
Even shorter than Croton Oil, but latching the top of Wings of Unreason felt pretty joyous
In reply to Robert Durran:
The Pause
Rock Dancer
Armorican
The Arrow
Central Groove
The Pause
Rock Dancer
Armorican
The Arrow
Central Groove
Post edited at 12:16
In reply to Robert Durran:
Dream of White Horses
Troutdale Pinnacle
Kipling Groove
The Fang
The File
Dream of White Horses
Troutdale Pinnacle
Kipling Groove
The Fang
The File
In reply to Hat Dude:
An other vote for Kafoozalem, if I cannot get to sleep, it is one of my favourite routes to reclimb in my head and I am usually gone before I get to the top crack. Just brillant
An other vote for Kafoozalem, if I cannot get to sleep, it is one of my favourite routes to reclimb in my head and I am usually gone before I get to the top crack. Just brillant
In reply to Robert Durran:
Heaven Crack.
And probably Archangel if I ever summon the courage to climb the last 7'. Ground up, over 35 years so far.
Heaven Crack.
And probably Archangel if I ever summon the courage to climb the last 7'. Ground up, over 35 years so far.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Heaven Crack
Ardverikie Wall
Angel's Wall
Muir y Nwl/Pinnacle Wall
DOWH
Wisdom Buttress
Heaven Crack
Ardverikie Wall
Angel's Wall
Muir y Nwl/Pinnacle Wall
DOWH
Wisdom Buttress
In reply to Robert Durran:
Another vote for
Doorpost
also
Old Man of Stoer, Ordinary Route
Bowfell Buttress
Niblick
Another vote for
Doorpost
also
Old Man of Stoer, Ordinary Route
Bowfell Buttress
Niblick
In reply to oakapple:
Ha, another one who does that! Much better than my usual alternative (prime factoring all numbers up to 1000. Worst if you make it to 2x2x2x5x5x5 and are still awake).
CB
> An other vote for Kafoozalem, if I cannot get to sleep, it is one of my favourite routes to reclimb in my head and I am usually gone before I get to the top crack. Just brillant
Ha, another one who does that! Much better than my usual alternative (prime factoring all numbers up to 1000. Worst if you make it to 2x2x2x5x5x5 and are still awake).
CB
In reply to thomaspomfrett: All of those yes, bar The File which I haven't done.
And:
Oxine
Bow-shaped slab
Right angle
Eagle Front
T.
And:
Oxine
Bow-shaped slab
Right angle
Eagle Front
T.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Eagle Ridge
Satan's Slit
Bludger's Revelation
Centurion
Trophy Crack
Vulcan Wall and Shangri-La on the same day
Eagle Ridge
Satan's Slit
Bludger's Revelation
Centurion
Trophy Crack
Vulcan Wall and Shangri-La on the same day
In reply to Bulls Crack:
That's probably because all the sports climbers have been out climbing all day and all the trad climbers have been sat in front of their computers.
> Not a single sport route so far!
That's probably because all the sports climbers have been out climbing all day and all the trad climbers have been sat in front of their computers.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Just a few of the many. I picked the ones that first came to mind so there is a mixed bag of different grades.
The Sloth - Roaches
Great Slab - Cloggy
Fistuk halabi - St Catherines, Sinai (alone in the desert and only an ancient Israeli topo for guidance)
Via Dolorosa - Roaches
Valkyrie - both of them
Bicycle repairman - Staden
Moyer's Buttress - Gardoms
Sacre Coeur - Blackchurch
Blue Sky - pembroke
Espolon Central - Puig Campana
Troutdale Pinacle _ Lakes
Pace Di Chiostio - Sicily
Satan's Slip - Lundy
Cemetery Gates - Llanberis
Horned Crag Route - Lliwedd
Just a few of the many. I picked the ones that first came to mind so there is a mixed bag of different grades.
The Sloth - Roaches
Great Slab - Cloggy
Fistuk halabi - St Catherines, Sinai (alone in the desert and only an ancient Israeli topo for guidance)
Via Dolorosa - Roaches
Valkyrie - both of them
Bicycle repairman - Staden
Moyer's Buttress - Gardoms
Sacre Coeur - Blackchurch
Blue Sky - pembroke
Espolon Central - Puig Campana
Troutdale Pinacle _ Lakes
Pace Di Chiostio - Sicily
Satan's Slip - Lundy
Cemetery Gates - Llanberis
Horned Crag Route - Lliwedd
In reply to Bulls Crack:
Will fix that in a jiffy
That nice 6a+ at Alcalali in Costa Blanca and a route at Lehn near Interlaken that felt easy when you had it wired.
I forget the name of both routes but that's Sport for you, more chance of remembering the route number in the Rockfax.
Will fix that in a jiffy
> Not a single sport route so far!
That nice 6a+ at Alcalali in Costa Blanca and a route at Lehn near Interlaken that felt easy when you had it wired.
I forget the name of both routes but that's Sport for you, more chance of remembering the route number in the Rockfax.
In reply to Robert Durran: A few that I'm surprised haven't already been mentioned:
- Integrity, Sron na Ciche, Skye
- 'F' Route, Gimmer Crag
- Suicide Wall, Cratcliffe
Plus, I really should mention one of the most joyful pitches I've probably ever climbed:
- The 40m Layback on the American Direct, West Face of the Petit Dru
Granite climbing does not get any finer! See http://bobwightman.co.uk/climb/images/alps/cham/dru/dru_05.jpg (or http://bobwightman.co.uk/climb/slideshow.php?s=american_direct for a slideshow of the whole route)
- Integrity, Sron na Ciche, Skye
- 'F' Route, Gimmer Crag
- Suicide Wall, Cratcliffe
Plus, I really should mention one of the most joyful pitches I've probably ever climbed:
- The 40m Layback on the American Direct, West Face of the Petit Dru
Granite climbing does not get any finer! See http://bobwightman.co.uk/climb/images/alps/cham/dru/dru_05.jpg (or http://bobwightman.co.uk/climb/slideshow.php?s=american_direct for a slideshow of the whole route)
In reply to Rick Graham:
Another sport route then, Costa Blanca on the Penon (in the Costa Blanca obviously).
Another sport route then, Costa Blanca on the Penon (in the Costa Blanca obviously).
In reply to Robert Durran:
Not much experience as yet, but so far soloing the Cioch Nose in Applecross in glorious sunshine on a bank holiday Monday with not another soul to be seen.
Had I known about the ledges I would have brought bivi kit and stayed for the night.
Not much experience as yet, but so far soloing the Cioch Nose in Applecross in glorious sunshine on a bank holiday Monday with not another soul to be seen.
Had I known about the ledges I would have brought bivi kit and stayed for the night.
Post edited at 20:54
In reply to Robert Durran:
Riders On The Storm in Pembroke.
Reade's Route on Crib Goch.
Any of The Cuillin when it's covered in snow (actually at any time of the year).
I'll drop in a sport route seeing as they've been poorly represented and say Mandragora in Siurana.
Riders On The Storm in Pembroke.
Reade's Route on Crib Goch.
Any of The Cuillin when it's covered in snow (actually at any time of the year).
I'll drop in a sport route seeing as they've been poorly represented and say Mandragora in Siurana.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Amazed that no one's mentioned Vestpillaren yet.
Can I die happy again after doing Fine Jade?
Amazed that no one's mentioned Vestpillaren yet.
Can I die happy again after doing Fine Jade?
In reply to Robert Durran:
Eagle Front - for its history, its solitude, and for the good mate I climbed with
Eagle Front - for its history, its solitude, and for the good mate I climbed with
In reply to Rick Graham:
Yeah - it's great innit?
> That nice 6a+ at Alcalali in Costa Blanca and a route at Lehn near Interlaken that felt easy when you had it wired.
Yeah - it's great innit?
In reply to Robert Durran:
Ear-to-ear grinners for me:
Anything at on the main face of Second Geo, Sheigra.
Most routes at Diabaig.
Roaring Silence, Scafell (or just a great day on Scafell, whatever great route you do at the top of your grade).
Assassin. The most brilliant route at Gogarth I've done.
Astral Stroll.
Archangel, The Cube or Crescent Arete for grit. Although I think Track Of The Cat is probably the real killer (hopefully one day I'll know for sure).
Or anything away from the main wall Horseshoe Quarry.
Ear-to-ear grinners for me:
Anything at on the main face of Second Geo, Sheigra.
Most routes at Diabaig.
Roaring Silence, Scafell (or just a great day on Scafell, whatever great route you do at the top of your grade).
Assassin. The most brilliant route at Gogarth I've done.
Astral Stroll.
Archangel, The Cube or Crescent Arete for grit. Although I think Track Of The Cat is probably the real killer (hopefully one day I'll know for sure).
Or anything away from the main wall Horseshoe Quarry.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Only HS, but as a young fledgling climber Integrity on Skye had me buzzing for days afterwards. And even now, decades on, I can still see those beautiful in-cut holds in the steep gabbro slab of the main pitch poised way above Coire Laggan.
Ian
Only HS, but as a young fledgling climber Integrity on Skye had me buzzing for days afterwards. And even now, decades on, I can still see those beautiful in-cut holds in the steep gabbro slab of the main pitch poised way above Coire Laggan.
Ian
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Never having climbed on Scafell really is an embarrassing gap in my climbing CV which needs sorting out!
> Roaring Silence, Scafell (or just a great day on Scafell, whatever great route you do at the top of your grade).
Never having climbed on Scafell really is an embarrassing gap in my climbing CV which needs sorting out!
In reply to Robert Durran:
Left wall on the Cromlech. Lifetime tick, those moves going left were going through my head again and again that night!
Deep Space - Mother Careys
Pull my Daisy
Cuillin Ridge Traverse
Cascade, the Pass
Left wall on the Cromlech. Lifetime tick, those moves going left were going through my head again and again that night!
Deep Space - Mother Careys
Pull my Daisy
Cuillin Ridge Traverse
Cascade, the Pass
In reply to Robert Durran:
Soloing Grey Slab after being scared shitless earlier in the day on Dagger, and getting lost on Talisman.... A bit of an emotional roller coaster!
Such a cool place that coire, and I don't think I saw a soul all day.
Soloing Grey Slab after being scared shitless earlier in the day on Dagger, and getting lost on Talisman.... A bit of an emotional roller coaster!
Such a cool place that coire, and I don't think I saw a soul all day.
In reply to Smelly Fox:
There's some real soul searching goes on to solo in the high Cairngorm Corries ! I chickened out of Scabbard on the most perfect September day; a huge missed opportunity. Go too far up the slab on Taliman? I did that with my wife. We had a 9mm rope tied round the middle and three nuts; it was supposed to have been a hiking trip...
My attempt on Grey Slab started with a walk across the plateau on fresh autumn snow. Did hanging dyke to warm up but there was so much frozen snow on the grassy exit that I chickened out of grey slab. Crystal ridge was a duff consolation prize but did, as ever, have the corrie to myself....
There's some real soul searching goes on to solo in the high Cairngorm Corries ! I chickened out of Scabbard on the most perfect September day; a huge missed opportunity. Go too far up the slab on Taliman? I did that with my wife. We had a 9mm rope tied round the middle and three nuts; it was supposed to have been a hiking trip...
My attempt on Grey Slab started with a walk across the plateau on fresh autumn snow. Did hanging dyke to warm up but there was so much frozen snow on the grassy exit that I chickened out of grey slab. Crystal ridge was a duff consolation prize but did, as ever, have the corrie to myself....
In reply to Robert Durran:
Another one for the bimblers who don't want to faff with much gear placement is Y Gelynan, in the Moelwyns, main slab pitch. Totally delightful.
Another one for the bimblers who don't want to faff with much gear placement is Y Gelynan, in the Moelwyns, main slab pitch. Totally delightful.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Great Harry-lawrence feild
christmas crack-stanage
mauds garden-the roaches
Great Harry-lawrence feild
christmas crack-stanage
mauds garden-the roaches
In reply to alan moore:
Yes went too high on the slab! Backed off after that and gave myself a bit of a talking too...
In retrospect scabbard would have been a much nicer solo than dagger, which was wet. You still have to do the scarey head wall though...
A very memorable day.
Yes went too high on the slab! Backed off after that and gave myself a bit of a talking too...
In retrospect scabbard would have been a much nicer solo than dagger, which was wet. You still have to do the scarey head wall though...
A very memorable day.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Absolutely loads but a few nobody has mentioned yet:
The Moon
The second pitch on Super Direct
The Strand in the evening light taking time to admire the view
Yellow Fever
42nd Street -because something at che tor has to be on the list
and another vote for F-route. i'm sure we belayed in the wrong place because 60m of rope was only just enough.
Absolutely loads but a few nobody has mentioned yet:
The Moon
The second pitch on Super Direct
The Strand in the evening light taking time to admire the view
Yellow Fever
42nd Street -because something at che tor has to be on the list
and another vote for F-route. i'm sure we belayed in the wrong place because 60m of rope was only just enough.
In reply to Smelly Fox:
I remember Djibangi being a nice secure solo (brilliant route), but finding Scabbard a bit worrying being less positive (though it was a long time ago!). I didn't do Dagger because it was wet and resorted to a bit of self protection on the awkward crux of Talisman (the hardest move on any of them!)
I remember Djibangi being a nice secure solo (brilliant route), but finding Scabbard a bit worrying being less positive (though it was a long time ago!). I didn't do Dagger because it was wet and resorted to a bit of self protection on the awkward crux of Talisman (the hardest move on any of them!)
In reply to Robert Durran:
Dagger is one of the few routes I found easier with having big feet, great jamming the right foot going up the corner!
Agree about Talisman having a strenuous awkward, but short lived crux.
Can't remember a single bit of Djbangi in summer? But have a photo of a young D Hawthorn on a winter ascent with D Dinwoodie.
Dagger is one of the few routes I found easier with having big feet, great jamming the right foot going up the corner!
Agree about Talisman having a strenuous awkward, but short lived crux.
Can't remember a single bit of Djbangi in summer? But have a photo of a young D Hawthorn on a winter ascent with D Dinwoodie.
In reply to Robert Durran:
The only sport route that stands out for me is Fiesta de los biceps,
one of the most memorable routes ever for me!
Trad, The moon, North west passage, Sun lover, Scoop wall, Wombat.
Chimes of freedom, Lucky strike.
Other sport routes include the one on that crag in spain ,was it number 12 or 13? one on that crag in France, oh and the one next to that too! Ha.
Really though, Lolita, DNA, and the likes at Kalymnos are very good.
The only sport route that stands out for me is Fiesta de los biceps,
one of the most memorable routes ever for me!
Trad, The moon, North west passage, Sun lover, Scoop wall, Wombat.
Chimes of freedom, Lucky strike.
Other sport routes include the one on that crag in spain ,was it number 12 or 13? one on that crag in France, oh and the one next to that too! Ha.
Really though, Lolita, DNA, and the likes at Kalymnos are very good.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Very good, but enough to make you die happy?
> Really though, Lolita, DNA, and the likes at Kalymnos are very good.
Very good, but enough to make you die happy?
In reply to Robert Durran:
funny Troutdale Pinnacle didnt really do it for me yesterday, was really looking forward to it too. So polished. May go again when not tired.
Had a fab girls day out last year on Cnifon Ridge and Arete by Idwal
Commando Ridge
Little Chamonix
Bowfell Buttress
Toix Ridge in Costa Blanca
Espolon Central on Puig Campagna
can I add some via feratta ? Bochetta Way and Tridentina are both amazing
Hey its all good
Sarah
funny Troutdale Pinnacle didnt really do it for me yesterday, was really looking forward to it too. So polished. May go again when not tired.
Had a fab girls day out last year on Cnifon Ridge and Arete by Idwal
Commando Ridge
Little Chamonix
Bowfell Buttress
Toix Ridge in Costa Blanca
Espolon Central on Puig Campagna
can I add some via feratta ? Bochetta Way and Tridentina are both amazing
Hey its all good
Sarah
In reply to Robert Durran:
I tend to think the routes that fill you with joy are the ones you'd do again and again, whereas the ones that are enough to make you die happy are so difficult it's unlikely you'd lead them more than the once.
I tend to think the routes that fill you with joy are the ones you'd do again and again, whereas the ones that are enough to make you die happy are so difficult it's unlikely you'd lead them more than the once.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Terriers Tooth
Right Angle
Black Slab (Bosigran)
Doorpost
Wreckers Slab
Terriers Tooth
Right Angle
Black Slab (Bosigran)
Doorpost
Wreckers Slab
Post edited at 22:06
In reply to Robert Durran:
All solos on beautiful days which probably added to a sense of joy, but
The Great Ridge of Garbh Bheinn
Central Buttress, Coir' a'Ghrunnda
Quiver Rib, Aonach Dubh
East Buttress, Beinn Eighe
In winter:
Archie's Ridge, Aonach Dubh West Face
Taxus, Beinn an Dothaidh
Nutcracker, Stob Coire nam Beith
Deep South Gully, Beinn Alligin
All solos on beautiful days which probably added to a sense of joy, but
The Great Ridge of Garbh Bheinn
Central Buttress, Coir' a'Ghrunnda
Quiver Rib, Aonach Dubh
East Buttress, Beinn Eighe
In winter:
Archie's Ridge, Aonach Dubh West Face
Taxus, Beinn an Dothaidh
Nutcracker, Stob Coire nam Beith
Deep South Gully, Beinn Alligin
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