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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.
Psyche video of the week - http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=bechdYEmlE0- Suggestions welcome
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=586696
JimmyKay - Did lots of core. Failed around a bit. Oh and a V9 (or two) and V10. BEAST!
Exile - Treading water? It'll come good I'm sure.
Curious Yellow - Welcome back. Did well on a 7b+ and sent a couple of V5s.
mrchewey - Did massive amounts of painful sounding sanding and then climbing loads. Well done on getting back into the running.
Joughton - Good luck with the revision.
biscuit - I couldn't stop laughing at that. Can someone please direct you up a 7c (aka an 8a) and see how you get on? I'm tempted to start telling my climbing partners porkies now where safe. That? Oh it's a VS. Honest (as they're at the bottom of The Butcher in pembs...).
Nick Russell - E3 and 7b+. Nice there. Well done chap.
mbh - good miles again there mate. Good to see you back on it.
stevemarkperry - Close to Flowers. Hopefully you've ticked it.
Kevster - Decent number of sessions there chap.
hms - in full support mode. Lots of miles.
Tubb93 - Lots of V4s. Impressive.
Tyler - Take the V5s and be happy. Does that mean you did Lobsession? Confused! If you did well done.
Goonie - Part of the 'garden digging section' of FC.
mattrm - guh
Dandan82 - Hang in there mate. It'll come good.
Ally Smith - Some hard boulder ticks and time on a 8c. AMAZING. Thanks for the insight into the mind of an E8 HPer.
ppg - mental amounts of cardio. Make sure you keep on leading BB. It's the way to go.
Sankey - Flailing around, it's the way to go.
IainRUK - Impressive race as always. 7th is still a good place, esp in such a strong field.
Paul Baxter - The Bludgeon is a good first HVS. Committing, but nice climbing.
Ali - Lots of good sessions there.
Just Tintin - "humping a Christmas tree volume" ??? Lots of bouldering and plans for doing loads of sessions. Sounds good.
Luke Owens - Well done on the house purchase.
Si Cox - Lots of finger resting. Hope to see you back in June. I was doing general garden remodelling. Knocking down buildings etc.
grubes - bouldering in font. nice.
thebigfriendlymoose - needs partners for sport apparently. So climb with him/her folks. What's not to like? It's a big friendly moose. Should be fun.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.
Psyche video of the week - http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=bechdYEmlE0- Suggestions welcome
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=586696
JimmyKay - Did lots of core. Failed around a bit. Oh and a V9 (or two) and V10. BEAST!
Exile - Treading water? It'll come good I'm sure.
Curious Yellow - Welcome back. Did well on a 7b+ and sent a couple of V5s.
mrchewey - Did massive amounts of painful sounding sanding and then climbing loads. Well done on getting back into the running.
Joughton - Good luck with the revision.
biscuit - I couldn't stop laughing at that. Can someone please direct you up a 7c (aka an 8a) and see how you get on? I'm tempted to start telling my climbing partners porkies now where safe. That? Oh it's a VS. Honest (as they're at the bottom of The Butcher in pembs...).
Nick Russell - E3 and 7b+. Nice there. Well done chap.
mbh - good miles again there mate. Good to see you back on it.
stevemarkperry - Close to Flowers. Hopefully you've ticked it.
Kevster - Decent number of sessions there chap.
hms - in full support mode. Lots of miles.
Tubb93 - Lots of V4s. Impressive.
Tyler - Take the V5s and be happy. Does that mean you did Lobsession? Confused! If you did well done.
Goonie - Part of the 'garden digging section' of FC.
mattrm - guh
Dandan82 - Hang in there mate. It'll come good.
Ally Smith - Some hard boulder ticks and time on a 8c. AMAZING. Thanks for the insight into the mind of an E8 HPer.
ppg - mental amounts of cardio. Make sure you keep on leading BB. It's the way to go.
Sankey - Flailing around, it's the way to go.
IainRUK - Impressive race as always. 7th is still a good place, esp in such a strong field.
Paul Baxter - The Bludgeon is a good first HVS. Committing, but nice climbing.
Ali - Lots of good sessions there.
Just Tintin - "humping a Christmas tree volume" ??? Lots of bouldering and plans for doing loads of sessions. Sounds good.
Luke Owens - Well done on the house purchase.
Si Cox - Lots of finger resting. Hope to see you back in June. I was doing general garden remodelling. Knocking down buildings etc.
grubes - bouldering in font. nice.
thebigfriendlymoose - needs partners for sport apparently. So climb with him/her folks. What's not to like? It's a big friendly moose. Should be fun.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt, hope everyone has been out smashing some routes/boulders in today.
M- Board session, absolutely well and truly psyched for it. 1-4-7 on the small rungs a few times before a short core session. 420 movements 2x3min plank and 100 press-ups
T- Felt shit all day. Got to the wall and sacked it off. Came home and watched a film before doing short core: 420 movements 2 x 3mins plank and 100 press-ups
W- Same session as Monday night. Wasn't feeling as strong on the board, think I get a bit tired by this stage of the week? Still, not too bad. Ended doing a short core session 420movements 2 x 3 min plank and 100 press-ups. (It may have something to do with the fact that I went out for a Thai meal with parents before hand?)
T- Rest day. Twitchy fingers.
S- Lakes. Stopped at trowbarrow on the drive up. Warmed up on a few things. Got frustrated on the pit problem crux. First time I landed it I dispatched Wheelbarrow (7C/+) - couldn't do this in 2010 (last time I tried) Then a few plays on Vitruvian Man (7C) including a fall from the top before sending that as well. Two really quality problems on a top quality block.
S- Bowderstone, Had the morning by myself. I intended to try XXXX (8A) but sacked it off for some reason (massive pussy?) and failed to do the first move on Grand Opera (despite ticking Impropa last year). Thought I did Spring Chicken but I don't think I did it right so no tick. Managed to tick Picnic Sarcastic Direct from sit (7B+). Then someone turned up with beta and I was off. I did Inaudible Vaudiville SS (7B+), then I linked it into Picnic Sarcastic Direct (7B+/C), then I did Frank (7C) and then finished in the afternoon with Hot Air (7B+). What really struck me was the relative ease I did them all with. I didn't feel like I was trying too hard (except matching the sloper on Frank) at any point.
S- Only core today. Decent session though. 840 core movements 4 x 3min plank 200 press-ups.
Not sure what to make about not be able to repeat the first move on Impropa. Stopped me from trying a couple of problems I had intended to play on. I also think that I should MTFU and do some harder stuff. I find it a lot harder though when I'm out on my own having to work out all the beta - even with beta videos. (Tiny violin and all that...) Hmmm...
Cheers Matt, hope everyone has been out smashing some routes/boulders in today.
M- Board session, absolutely well and truly psyched for it. 1-4-7 on the small rungs a few times before a short core session. 420 movements 2x3min plank and 100 press-ups
T- Felt shit all day. Got to the wall and sacked it off. Came home and watched a film before doing short core: 420 movements 2 x 3mins plank and 100 press-ups
W- Same session as Monday night. Wasn't feeling as strong on the board, think I get a bit tired by this stage of the week? Still, not too bad. Ended doing a short core session 420movements 2 x 3 min plank and 100 press-ups. (It may have something to do with the fact that I went out for a Thai meal with parents before hand?)
T- Rest day. Twitchy fingers.
S- Lakes. Stopped at trowbarrow on the drive up. Warmed up on a few things. Got frustrated on the pit problem crux. First time I landed it I dispatched Wheelbarrow (7C/+) - couldn't do this in 2010 (last time I tried) Then a few plays on Vitruvian Man (7C) including a fall from the top before sending that as well. Two really quality problems on a top quality block.
S- Bowderstone, Had the morning by myself. I intended to try XXXX (8A) but sacked it off for some reason (massive pussy?) and failed to do the first move on Grand Opera (despite ticking Impropa last year). Thought I did Spring Chicken but I don't think I did it right so no tick. Managed to tick Picnic Sarcastic Direct from sit (7B+). Then someone turned up with beta and I was off. I did Inaudible Vaudiville SS (7B+), then I linked it into Picnic Sarcastic Direct (7B+/C), then I did Frank (7C) and then finished in the afternoon with Hot Air (7B+). What really struck me was the relative ease I did them all with. I didn't feel like I was trying too hard (except matching the sloper on Frank) at any point.
S- Only core today. Decent session though. 840 core movements 4 x 3min plank 200 press-ups.
Not sure what to make about not be able to repeat the first move on Impropa. Stopped me from trying a couple of problems I had intended to play on. I also think that I should MTFU and do some harder stuff. I find it a lot harder though when I'm out on my own having to work out all the beta - even with beta videos. (Tiny violin and all that...) Hmmm...
In reply to mattrm:
GCSE support continues. Last week was heavy, this coming week worse, so all plans for my climbing other than just keeping things ticking over seem to have been put on hold. Practically crying seeing the glorious weather being wasted. Need to focus on the long-term gain from short term (mental) pain I guess!
M cycle commute. Fingerboard in evening - 3 full sets so quite a lot
T cycle commute
W sole time outside, ByG to try 7b+ project. Still on TR but rapidly getting to the point where this isn't going to let me find out any more. Have virtually all the moves sussed although some of the foot placements need refining (and possibly marking - they're tiny!).
T cycle commute, then quick UCR circuits, ~10 of them. rather hot & sticky though.
F full GCSE emotional support mode - fun, fun, fun
S traverses of the handy local stone wall, very fingery, plus some dyno/deadpoint practise to the top. Then 70 pull-ups in sets of 5
S all too short stamina session at UCR due to a miscommunication. Only got 12 routes done when I'd been planning on 18. Sets of back-to-back 3s: 6a+ 6b 6b / 6b 6b+ 6c / 6c+ 6c 6b / 6c 6b 6b+
GCSE support continues. Last week was heavy, this coming week worse, so all plans for my climbing other than just keeping things ticking over seem to have been put on hold. Practically crying seeing the glorious weather being wasted. Need to focus on the long-term gain from short term (mental) pain I guess!
M cycle commute. Fingerboard in evening - 3 full sets so quite a lot
T cycle commute
W sole time outside, ByG to try 7b+ project. Still on TR but rapidly getting to the point where this isn't going to let me find out any more. Have virtually all the moves sussed although some of the foot placements need refining (and possibly marking - they're tiny!).
T cycle commute, then quick UCR circuits, ~10 of them. rather hot & sticky though.
F full GCSE emotional support mode - fun, fun, fun
S traverses of the handy local stone wall, very fingery, plus some dyno/deadpoint practise to the top. Then 70 pull-ups in sets of 5
S all too short stamina session at UCR due to a miscommunication. Only got 12 routes done when I'd been planning on 18. Sets of back-to-back 3s: 6a+ 6b 6b / 6b 6b+ 6c / 6c+ 6c 6b / 6c 6b 6b+
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks mattrm.
STG (by end of May)
Boulder v6inside (Close!!)
Consolidate v5 outside: left hand traverse flake start start at parisellas (Tick), Oh yeah!! (Tick), and pacman arete.
Get lots done on two week trip to kalymnos (TICK)
Climb 6c (Managed 6B+ so pretty happy)
MTG (end of '14)
Climb more trad
Boulder v6 in font (September) and v7 by end of year
Onsight 7a redpoint 7b
LTG
Lead 8a
Boulder v9
This week:
M- great boulder session at Indy. Got a couple of v5s. Also close on a v6 that I got in two largely overlapping sections.
T- Rest day
W- parisellas cave got left hand traverse flake start (v5)
T- rest
F- went to a boulder I can't remember the name of but flashed my first outdoor v4.
S- cromlech, sent some awkward v3 that had eluded me before and got close on thribin's wall.
S- Revision
Decent week in all. Looking forward to more of the same this week.
Thanks mattrm.
STG (by end of May)
Boulder v6inside (Close!!)
Consolidate v5 outside: left hand traverse flake start start at parisellas (Tick), Oh yeah!! (Tick), and pacman arete.
Get lots done on two week trip to kalymnos (TICK)
Climb 6c (Managed 6B+ so pretty happy)
MTG (end of '14)
Climb more trad
Boulder v6 in font (September) and v7 by end of year
Onsight 7a redpoint 7b
LTG
Lead 8a
Boulder v9
This week:
M- great boulder session at Indy. Got a couple of v5s. Also close on a v6 that I got in two largely overlapping sections.
T- Rest day
W- parisellas cave got left hand traverse flake start (v5)
T- rest
F- went to a boulder I can't remember the name of but flashed my first outdoor v4.
S- cromlech, sent some awkward v3 that had eluded me before and got close on thribin's wall.
S- Revision
Decent week in all. Looking forward to more of the same this week.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for doing fit club again.
Aims:
Rock this year: RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar) & lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
Next winter start with VI 7
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: Nothing - 15hrs at work
T: 1hr endurance traverses on fingery stuff
W: Nothing - 13hrs a work
T: Nothing - knackered
F: 1hrs wall session before work. Very poor - still tired
S: Nothing
S: 1hr endurance traverses on fingery stuff
Knew it was going to be a big work week so training would take a back seat. However, lack of partners conspired to mean I couldn't make the most of the good weather when I could climb. Looking forward I've got some weekend commitments coming up so I've re-evaluated my targets and altered a bit to put myself under less pressure.
Just over 11.5st now, nee to sustain this
Thanks for doing fit club again.
Aims:
Rock this year: RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar) & lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
Next winter start with VI 7
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: Nothing - 15hrs at work
T: 1hr endurance traverses on fingery stuff
W: Nothing - 13hrs a work
T: Nothing - knackered
F: 1hrs wall session before work. Very poor - still tired
S: Nothing
S: 1hr endurance traverses on fingery stuff
Knew it was going to be a big work week so training would take a back seat. However, lack of partners conspired to mean I couldn't make the most of the good weather when I could climb. Looking forward I've got some weekend commitments coming up so I've re-evaluated my targets and altered a bit to put myself under less pressure.
Just over 11.5st now, nee to sustain this
In reply to mattrm:
MTG (June): Classic E2 tick (not ambitious enough?)
LTG(2014): Star Wars.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
Wed: Core(336). Horseshoe (1 6a)
Thu: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.
Fri: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.
Sat: Stanage.
Sun: Core(341). Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
Can I come back? I feel like an alcoholic who keeps going back to aa saying "this time its for real..." Hoping a (unrealistic?) target of Star Wars in August will kick me into shape.
Started training again 6 weeks ago although only really increased volume last couple of weeks. Started running to see if it gives me more energy to train about 2 weeks ago.
Wednesday a bit of a washout as I strained something in my leg on the first route which took a few days to heal, didn't run this week incase this has something to do with it.
Easy day at Stanageon Saturday, it was my first day back on trad in abot 6 months & I don't feel confident.
Next week looking for 6 training sessions including one evening bouldering or climbing outside.
MTG (June): Classic E2 tick (not ambitious enough?)
LTG(2014): Star Wars.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
Wed: Core(336). Horseshoe (1 6a)
Thu: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.
Fri: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.
Sat: Stanage.
Sun: Core(341). Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
Can I come back? I feel like an alcoholic who keeps going back to aa saying "this time its for real..." Hoping a (unrealistic?) target of Star Wars in August will kick me into shape.
Started training again 6 weeks ago although only really increased volume last couple of weeks. Started running to see if it gives me more energy to train about 2 weeks ago.
Wednesday a bit of a washout as I strained something in my leg on the first route which took a few days to heal, didn't run this week incase this has something to do with it.
Easy day at Stanageon Saturday, it was my first day back on trad in abot 6 months & I don't feel confident.
Next week looking for 6 training sessions including one evening bouldering or climbing outside.
In reply to mattrm:
Thank you Matt for doing this again. ( Can you believe there were 6, (I counted them) typos in that sentence when I first typed it?
M - nil
T - 8 miles
W - 10 miles, coast path - to stunning view over Godrevy light house, and back.
T - about 100 yards, I think. Gave up. Not feeling well.
F - 10.1 miles, St Agnes Head, always a hard run, especially when you see the rise to Trevellas ahead as you approach St Agnes beach, but more great views.
S - Parents visiting, so 10 miles before they arrive, which leaves 11.6 miles for the 50 miles target, which I meet,
S - today, after some dithering, with a 13.4 mile plod.
51.8 miles , 4300-ish feet of ascent. Less hilly than of late, but four 10 mile+ runs in the week and 50+ miles for the 6th week in a row, and for the 7th in the last 8 weeks. So that's good.
The plan, vaguely, is that we head up to the Lakes next weekend and walk the BG in 3 days, then that I have a go at running it in July/August. To do that, I am going to need to try some long days out, which I can start to do in a fortnight.
Thank you Matt for doing this again. ( Can you believe there were 6, (I counted them) typos in that sentence when I first typed it?
M - nil
T - 8 miles
W - 10 miles, coast path - to stunning view over Godrevy light house, and back.
T - about 100 yards, I think. Gave up. Not feeling well.
F - 10.1 miles, St Agnes Head, always a hard run, especially when you see the rise to Trevellas ahead as you approach St Agnes beach, but more great views.
S - Parents visiting, so 10 miles before they arrive, which leaves 11.6 miles for the 50 miles target, which I meet,
S - today, after some dithering, with a 13.4 mile plod.
51.8 miles , 4300-ish feet of ascent. Less hilly than of late, but four 10 mile+ runs in the week and 50+ miles for the 6th week in a row, and for the 7th in the last 8 weeks. So that's good.
The plan, vaguely, is that we head up to the Lakes next weekend and walk the BG in 3 days, then that I have a go at running it in July/August. To do that, I am going to need to try some long days out, which I can start to do in a fortnight.
In reply to mattrm: Not a great week for me but then again I didn't expect it to be! Just been knuckling down with revision. Obviously this weekend has been glorious but I couldn't really take a whole day out of revision. Made up for it by revising outside and going on a good run.
I've been enjoying my running recently, it's a good way to push myself and de-stress without taking as much as climbing outside, whilst still letting me enjoy the weather. I think the fact that every time I do the same run I improve by PB by a minute or so shows just how unfit I was before! Now down to half an hour, started at 40 minutes a month ago.
Mon - after college wall session, should have gone to Hobby instead! New routes at MCC. Onsighted 6b, 6c+, 7a+, failed on 7b O/S (argh where did it all go so quickly?!), got the 7b next go, onsighted 7b. Failed (completely) to onsight the 7c. All moves felt fine after a sit on the rope, but again, just like this time last year, I've become painfully unfit!
Tue - rest and revision
Wed - run, ~5K, very hilly, 36 minutes
Thurs - rest and revision
Fri - rest and revision
Sat - very short bouldering session at a local crag to make the most of the evening sun, repeated some problems I'd done before in the V4 to V6 range.
Sun - Core session inc pressups, pullups, leg raises, sit ups, then a really good run. New PB of half an hour, felt fine until the last big hill.
Missed out on a weekends cragging at High Tor but I probably would've been rubbish anyway!
Cheers, Jake
I've been enjoying my running recently, it's a good way to push myself and de-stress without taking as much as climbing outside, whilst still letting me enjoy the weather. I think the fact that every time I do the same run I improve by PB by a minute or so shows just how unfit I was before! Now down to half an hour, started at 40 minutes a month ago.
Mon - after college wall session, should have gone to Hobby instead! New routes at MCC. Onsighted 6b, 6c+, 7a+, failed on 7b O/S (argh where did it all go so quickly?!), got the 7b next go, onsighted 7b. Failed (completely) to onsight the 7c. All moves felt fine after a sit on the rope, but again, just like this time last year, I've become painfully unfit!
Tue - rest and revision
Wed - run, ~5K, very hilly, 36 minutes
Thurs - rest and revision
Fri - rest and revision
Sat - very short bouldering session at a local crag to make the most of the evening sun, repeated some problems I'd done before in the V4 to V6 range.
Sun - Core session inc pressups, pullups, leg raises, sit ups, then a really good run. New PB of half an hour, felt fine until the last big hill.
Missed out on a weekends cragging at High Tor but I probably would've been rubbish anyway!
Cheers, Jake
In reply to Joughton:
Good one on the running, it is easy to fit in as well.
Steady week just getting the legs going, played touch rugby this week which caused soreness but otherwise decent week.
m: 3.2 miles 8:55 pace, slow
t: 5.2 miles trail and road 7:55 pace
w: 11.3 miles road run with running group.
t: 10.25 6:50 pace road and trail,. after: 1 hour of touch rugby
f: am: 6 miles up hill treadmill session. pm: 4.1 miles steady in the rain..
s: 11.5 miles 7:20 ish road and trail
s: 12.5 miles 8:20 ish pace road and trail
May take a month off racing after next week and just play 7's rugby over the summer, gets too hot here for any serious racing from now on and rugby will be a good way to socialise and keep fit.
Good one on the running, it is easy to fit in as well.
Steady week just getting the legs going, played touch rugby this week which caused soreness but otherwise decent week.
m: 3.2 miles 8:55 pace, slow
t: 5.2 miles trail and road 7:55 pace
w: 11.3 miles road run with running group.
t: 10.25 6:50 pace road and trail,. after: 1 hour of touch rugby
f: am: 6 miles up hill treadmill session. pm: 4.1 miles steady in the rain..
s: 11.5 miles 7:20 ish road and trail
s: 12.5 miles 8:20 ish pace road and trail
May take a month off racing after next week and just play 7's rugby over the summer, gets too hot here for any serious racing from now on and rugby will be a good way to socialise and keep fit.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt, i'm still here so I haven't lost hope entirely!
I got a bit more into the swing of things last week, I forced myself to go to the gym two days running, I had no psyche at all at the start of the week but after two sessions I was feeling much more keen, it's always surprising how a bit of exercise very quickly makes you want to do more exercise, got to love those endorphins.
Despite my physio's advice of not climbing for a while, I couldn't pass up the ridiculous weather on saturday so we went to the blast furnace that was Blacknor North on Portland. What a scorcher! I kept myself to 6a's and 6b's, a bunch of guys I know were working a 7b+ and my mate put up a 7a that I had to practically sit on my hands to stop myself from trying. It was probably a wise move, my finger seemed to survive the ordeal intact, it was a little achey the next day but I don't think I did any harm, and it certainly did my morale the world of good.
M: Shoulders; smith press, upright rows, dumbell front raise, cable front raise, reverse fly. Stretches and rehab.
T: Chest; Incline bench, flat dumbell press, incline fly, dips, tricep pull down
W:
T: Core; crunches, knee raises, L hangs, front lever (knees bent) Stretches and rehab
F:
S: Climb 6a, 6a, 6b, 6b, 6a+
S:
Best week for a while, here's hoping I can keep things ticking along now.
Thanks Matt, i'm still here so I haven't lost hope entirely!
I got a bit more into the swing of things last week, I forced myself to go to the gym two days running, I had no psyche at all at the start of the week but after two sessions I was feeling much more keen, it's always surprising how a bit of exercise very quickly makes you want to do more exercise, got to love those endorphins.
Despite my physio's advice of not climbing for a while, I couldn't pass up the ridiculous weather on saturday so we went to the blast furnace that was Blacknor North on Portland. What a scorcher! I kept myself to 6a's and 6b's, a bunch of guys I know were working a 7b+ and my mate put up a 7a that I had to practically sit on my hands to stop myself from trying. It was probably a wise move, my finger seemed to survive the ordeal intact, it was a little achey the next day but I don't think I did any harm, and it certainly did my morale the world of good.
M: Shoulders; smith press, upright rows, dumbell front raise, cable front raise, reverse fly. Stretches and rehab.
T: Chest; Incline bench, flat dumbell press, incline fly, dips, tricep pull down
W:
T: Core; crunches, knee raises, L hangs, front lever (knees bent) Stretches and rehab
F:
S: Climb 6a, 6a, 6b, 6b, 6a+
S:
Best week for a while, here's hoping I can keep things ticking along now.
In reply to mattrm:
Started the week brightly.
Monday I did some leading, trying stuff too hard for me, which meant falling. Eventually took a right flyer from the top move on an overhang - it actually felt like fun for the first time since I decked out back in March. Progress. Finished with a couple of top ropes as I was too battered to lead anymore, one being another 6c I'd not been on. Big moves and small positive holds. Didn't feel too bad to be honest.
Wed I started bouldering but knee was playing up, so did some foot on campusing but that hurt it too.
Today, was a short session showing somehow to drop knee.
Gonna sack off the indoor climbing for a while, it just aggravates the knee too much. Work is busy, I've a big trip coming up and I really need to focus on strengthening the knee, which means a bit of redirection. So it's two sessions of foot on campusing and one sesh of deadhangs for the next month or so, with just a 6 day trip to Cornwall in the middle. That'll leave me time for short runs and squats etc and recovery time.
Low psyche at the moment due to the knee... so I'll shake it all up a bit and see what happens.
Started the week brightly.
Monday I did some leading, trying stuff too hard for me, which meant falling. Eventually took a right flyer from the top move on an overhang - it actually felt like fun for the first time since I decked out back in March. Progress. Finished with a couple of top ropes as I was too battered to lead anymore, one being another 6c I'd not been on. Big moves and small positive holds. Didn't feel too bad to be honest.
Wed I started bouldering but knee was playing up, so did some foot on campusing but that hurt it too.
Today, was a short session showing somehow to drop knee.
Gonna sack off the indoor climbing for a while, it just aggravates the knee too much. Work is busy, I've a big trip coming up and I really need to focus on strengthening the knee, which means a bit of redirection. So it's two sessions of foot on campusing and one sesh of deadhangs for the next month or so, with just a 6 day trip to Cornwall in the middle. That'll leave me time for short runs and squats etc and recovery time.
Low psyche at the moment due to the knee... so I'll shake it all up a bit and see what happens.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers for the stats Matt, plenty of people putting in good efforts at the moment.
M - 20 minute run, fingerboard set, swimming (2.5km)
T - 8km run
W - Climbing at Ban-y-Gor with hms. Quick (ish - 3rd go) tick of a 7a+, had a play on Almost Me (7c) - awesome!
T - Climbing at Shorn Cliff
F - Swimming (2.0km)
S - am: Climbing at Avon. Quick solo of 5b wall (polished highball) and HP solo of SOS, E4 5c (had a play on TR a couple of years ago). Fell off seconding P1 of Hocus Pocus (E3 6a), then threw myself at Low Profile (E5 6a/b clip-up). Fell off just before the actual crux, but should go ok now I know where the holds are!
pm: Swimming gala - Cotswold finals. 100 IM in 1:09.58 (unfortunately not a 'real' event) and 50fr in 26.3 (relay split). Getting close to that 26s mark!
S - Climbing at Blackchurch. A couple of VS routes then posed for the camera on Sacre Coeur (film coming up in a few weeks). Finished off on Loose Woman (aptly named).
I'm feeling pretty knackered after all that, need a rest day or two. Looks like the weather's going downhill again, so shouldn't have too much trouble with that.
As usual, a bit disappointed to fall off the E3 on Saturday, I suspect the problem was largely in my head. Aside from the fact that I don't concentrate as much seconding as on lead, I think I suffer a bit from 'logbook pride' (I was discussing this with hms on Wednesday). I get stressed out about 'the onsight'. Got to do something about that. Tying in on Low Profile was a step in the right direction - so tempting to 'save it for the onsight', rather than just getting on it and having a play.
2014 goals
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 2, clean onsight: 1
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 153/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr*, 26.98 (26.3*) 50 fr, 1:12.34 100 bk, 31.12 50 fly*, 1:09.58 100 IM
*Relay splits
Short-term goals
Get some sport mileage in 7b-7c range.
New 7c project: Almost Me.
Rest shoulders this week. Back into it after bank holiday
Plan/train for trips in September/October: 1 week in Lundy, 2 weeks in US East Coast.
> Nick Russell - E3 and 7b+. Nice there. Well done chap.
Cheers for the stats Matt, plenty of people putting in good efforts at the moment.
M - 20 minute run, fingerboard set, swimming (2.5km)
T - 8km run
W - Climbing at Ban-y-Gor with hms. Quick (ish - 3rd go) tick of a 7a+, had a play on Almost Me (7c) - awesome!
T - Climbing at Shorn Cliff
F - Swimming (2.0km)
S - am: Climbing at Avon. Quick solo of 5b wall (polished highball) and HP solo of SOS, E4 5c (had a play on TR a couple of years ago). Fell off seconding P1 of Hocus Pocus (E3 6a), then threw myself at Low Profile (E5 6a/b clip-up). Fell off just before the actual crux, but should go ok now I know where the holds are!
pm: Swimming gala - Cotswold finals. 100 IM in 1:09.58 (unfortunately not a 'real' event) and 50fr in 26.3 (relay split). Getting close to that 26s mark!
S - Climbing at Blackchurch. A couple of VS routes then posed for the camera on Sacre Coeur (film coming up in a few weeks). Finished off on Loose Woman (aptly named).
I'm feeling pretty knackered after all that, need a rest day or two. Looks like the weather's going downhill again, so shouldn't have too much trouble with that.
As usual, a bit disappointed to fall off the E3 on Saturday, I suspect the problem was largely in my head. Aside from the fact that I don't concentrate as much seconding as on lead, I think I suffer a bit from 'logbook pride' (I was discussing this with hms on Wednesday). I get stressed out about 'the onsight'. Got to do something about that. Tying in on Low Profile was a step in the right direction - so tempting to 'save it for the onsight', rather than just getting on it and having a play.
2014 goals
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 2, clean onsight: 1
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 153/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr*, 26.98 (26.3*) 50 fr, 1:12.34 100 bk, 31.12 50 fly*, 1:09.58 100 IM
*Relay splits
Short-term goals
New 7c project: Almost Me.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks, Matt.
Still no Flowers. I'm seriously thinking that this may be too conditions dependant, for me at least, as I just can't hold the sloping rail with my right hand enough to get my foot up. I'm getting frustrated with a lack of progress on this now.
An in-growing toenail this week has skuppered any plans for keeping my climbing shoes on for longer than a few minutes at a time. I really don't want this to take hold so I'm being careful. They are painful!
This Week:
Weight: 140 lbs (Approx. Need new batteries for scales <- todo)
M: 27km mountain bike.
T:
W: Intervals on bike.
T: Bouldering at the Roaches in the sun. Mainly easy slabs. Tried Flowers but far too hot in the sun to hold the right hand.
F: Churnet bouldering. Attempts on both Simple Simon Indirect (7A) and The Undercut (6C+). A good session. Upper body (4 x 8 pull ups, 4 x 8 curls).
S: Intervals on bike. 3 sets of lock-offs. Day out at Chatsworth International Horse Trials.
S: 18km mountain bike with sprints
STG:
Drunk Enough Font 6C+ (Roaches) (TICK!)
-> Sleeping With The Flowers 6C+/7A (Roaches)
-> Simple Simon Indirect (Churnet)
-> The Undercut (Churnet)
Top 20% in category Summer Classic XC at Cannock on 1st June
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Lead Severe (Route TBD)
Hit the trails on the MTB when possible
MTG (by Dec 2014):
Consolodate at Font 7A
Tick a Font 7B
Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet (on a back burner as the Churnet has now entered green mode for the most part)
VLTG (plus some superficially grade-based for now):
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Rjukan
7B, E1, WI6, VI 6, ED Alpine
Consolodate winter experience
Thanks, Matt.
Still no Flowers. I'm seriously thinking that this may be too conditions dependant, for me at least, as I just can't hold the sloping rail with my right hand enough to get my foot up. I'm getting frustrated with a lack of progress on this now.
An in-growing toenail this week has skuppered any plans for keeping my climbing shoes on for longer than a few minutes at a time. I really don't want this to take hold so I'm being careful. They are painful!
This Week:
Weight: 140 lbs (Approx. Need new batteries for scales <- todo)
M: 27km mountain bike.
T:
W: Intervals on bike.
T: Bouldering at the Roaches in the sun. Mainly easy slabs. Tried Flowers but far too hot in the sun to hold the right hand.
F: Churnet bouldering. Attempts on both Simple Simon Indirect (7A) and The Undercut (6C+). A good session. Upper body (4 x 8 pull ups, 4 x 8 curls).
S: Intervals on bike. 3 sets of lock-offs. Day out at Chatsworth International Horse Trials.
S: 18km mountain bike with sprints
STG:
Drunk Enough Font 6C+ (Roaches) (TICK!)
-> Sleeping With The Flowers 6C+/7A (Roaches)
-> Simple Simon Indirect (Churnet)
-> The Undercut (Churnet)
Top 20% in category Summer Classic XC at Cannock on 1st June
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Lead Severe (Route TBD)
Hit the trails on the MTB when possible
MTG (by Dec 2014):
Consolodate at Font 7A
Tick a Font 7B
Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet (on a back burner as the Churnet has now entered green mode for the most part)
VLTG (plus some superficially grade-based for now):
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Rjukan
7B, E1, WI6, VI 6, ED Alpine
Consolodate winter experience
In reply to mattrm:
last week
1x weights.. only one as not doing any more weight training for a few weeks to allow proper recovery for baboo
5x core
6x cardio..(1x MTB ride, 2x road ride.. all hilly and good workouts) rest of them in the gym
2x bouldering at rochdale wall.. mainly endurance
2x malham...baboo
thursday at malham..2x consenting for warm up. TP'd first go.. felt very strong. 2nd go .. lead.. ridiculous amounts of adrenalin it just wouldn't settle until i was on the head wall. got from ground to 7th bolt. 3rd go.. lead.. much much better as felt more settled, ground to 7th again, rest positions wet so had to dry out hands and rest on 7th bolt. really enjoyed the head wall too. 4th go TR'd for fitness. tired
sunday at malham.. similar to thursday but more settled in terms of adrenalin. bottled clipping the 8th bolt which I'm dischuffed about but I got further than thursday.. as worked rest and climbed through.. just one move off clipping the 8th.. all in my head.. felt a bit tired and flat.. not enough drive going on for some reason.. so got on lead twice.. bottled clipping the 8th bolt both times. TR'd last go... tired.. lost a bit of confidence as it felt mega hard on my last go.
aims for this week:
reach a new high on baboo.. which means clip the 8th bolt, and at least slap for the crux hold .. which I think i can do.
lead baboo more than twice for each session this week.
PPG
last week
1x weights.. only one as not doing any more weight training for a few weeks to allow proper recovery for baboo
5x core
6x cardio..(1x MTB ride, 2x road ride.. all hilly and good workouts) rest of them in the gym
2x bouldering at rochdale wall.. mainly endurance
2x malham...baboo
thursday at malham..2x consenting for warm up. TP'd first go.. felt very strong. 2nd go .. lead.. ridiculous amounts of adrenalin it just wouldn't settle until i was on the head wall. got from ground to 7th bolt. 3rd go.. lead.. much much better as felt more settled, ground to 7th again, rest positions wet so had to dry out hands and rest on 7th bolt. really enjoyed the head wall too. 4th go TR'd for fitness. tired
sunday at malham.. similar to thursday but more settled in terms of adrenalin. bottled clipping the 8th bolt which I'm dischuffed about but I got further than thursday.. as worked rest and climbed through.. just one move off clipping the 8th.. all in my head.. felt a bit tired and flat.. not enough drive going on for some reason.. so got on lead twice.. bottled clipping the 8th bolt both times. TR'd last go... tired.. lost a bit of confidence as it felt mega hard on my last go.
aims for this week:
reach a new high on baboo.. which means clip the 8th bolt, and at least slap for the crux hold .. which I think i can do.
lead baboo more than twice for each session this week.
PPG
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt,
Slacker week this week, with a poor performance on real rock. Such an ego basher, but probably a reality check. ie need to climb harder more often.
Mon:
Tues: Indoors leading - aimed to lead all the 7a/7a+s/7bs in the evening. Failed due to the wall being too busy and chatting too much. But got a fair number done (6). No falls, except from the tops.
Wed:
Thur:
Fri:
SAt: Brean - not as hot as expected. Climbed like a clown. Had a couple of goes on Chilulla. I hoped this would go easily this time, but I just flailed around on it adding to the polish, so gave up on it for the day. Even Clashing socks was hard work (got it first time last visit). Total of 6 ascents in the 7's. Ached on Sunday so leads to a lack of sport fitness conclusion.
Sun: Decided to save the tips for next week - Riglos & Llleida (fly on fri eve).
This week will be a gentle one I think after Tues as I head out to Spain on Friday.
Thanks! Kev.
Goals
Trad: E4 OS. Volume of E2 and E3. Try to avoid sub E1 routes.
Sport ambitions: 7c-8a RP, 7b OS, get comfy 7a OS again.
Indoors: Variety of walls, FB regularly, get more CV.
Upcoming focus: Riglos & lleida end of May, Also have weekends June and July to possible big tick venues. Also want to get Skeleton Ridge done.
Cheers Matt,
Slacker week this week, with a poor performance on real rock. Such an ego basher, but probably a reality check. ie need to climb harder more often.
Mon:
Tues: Indoors leading - aimed to lead all the 7a/7a+s/7bs in the evening. Failed due to the wall being too busy and chatting too much. But got a fair number done (6). No falls, except from the tops.
Wed:
Thur:
Fri:
SAt: Brean - not as hot as expected. Climbed like a clown. Had a couple of goes on Chilulla. I hoped this would go easily this time, but I just flailed around on it adding to the polish, so gave up on it for the day. Even Clashing socks was hard work (got it first time last visit). Total of 6 ascents in the 7's. Ached on Sunday so leads to a lack of sport fitness conclusion.
Sun: Decided to save the tips for next week - Riglos & Llleida (fly on fri eve).
This week will be a gentle one I think after Tues as I head out to Spain on Friday.
Thanks! Kev.
Goals
Trad: E4 OS. Volume of E2 and E3. Try to avoid sub E1 routes.
Sport ambitions: 7c-8a RP, 7b OS, get comfy 7a OS again.
Indoors: Variety of walls, FB regularly, get more CV.
Upcoming focus: Riglos & lleida end of May, Also have weekends June and July to possible big tick venues. Also want to get Skeleton Ridge done.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Another beast of a week - you're on fire at the moment!
p.s. I've worked out the beta for Gwennan if you want to put a rope on and use some of that power to get a big French grade ticked?
Another beast of a week - you're on fire at the moment!
p.s. I've worked out the beta for Gwennan if you want to put a rope on and use some of that power to get a big French grade ticked?
In reply to mattrm:
Started the week well with a run on Sunday(4 miles), Monday (9k) and Tuesday (9k), rode into work once on the wednesday plus yoga in the eve, but from then on the week went a bit pearshaped.
Still, lots of DIY and gardening done which is exercise of sorts.
Need to get some climbing done!
Started the week well with a run on Sunday(4 miles), Monday (9k) and Tuesday (9k), rode into work once on the wednesday plus yoga in the eve, but from then on the week went a bit pearshaped.
Still, lots of DIY and gardening done which is exercise of sorts.
Need to get some climbing done!
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt
STG (June of 2014):
Lose 8kg
A new tick at malham
MTG (End of 2014):
Lead E2 try onsight
7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Go to El Chorro
LTG (June of 2015):
Visit Kalymnos, catalunya and somewhere adventurous
This week's goals:
Rest - Tick
Climb again at the weekend - Tick
M: rest
T: AM Buthier ticked a 6A I failed on at christmas as a warm up
Did some bits and walked abit Tried a 6B
PM Elephant Ticked a 6A that I have not done but tried on every trip. SPent the rest of the day chatting to neil from Maison bleau and trying a 6C. I got burnt off by Jimmy Webb on the 6C which was nice.
Kicked a log to snap it making a fire. Failed to break it and knee hurt.
W: Drove home 11hours 20mins
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Rest 9.31km walk with 139m ascent, Knee hurt
S: Chew valley Challenge.
I had not planned to enter as my knee hurt but decided to go anyway. Bought a cheap t-shirt from the crag station sale.
planned to walk around the resovior and boulder then sleep on my mat.
Someone was without a partner so we teamed up and went to robs rocks did three routes then went to duckstones and did a route then walked back down.
Walked 5.61km with 242m ascent.
2nded 2xhs and 2x VS
came 9th out of 10
Knee hurt
Next week Goals:
No plans
I went to font with no training or expectation just went to enjoy myself
I came back from a font trip with 4x 6A after failing to get one on any of my previous trips.
Nice relaxing sunday involving walking up some big hills. and doing some short easy routes.
Thanks Matt
STG (June of 2014):
Lose 8kg
A new tick at malham
MTG (End of 2014):
Lead E2 try onsight
7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Go to El Chorro
LTG (June of 2015):
Visit Kalymnos, catalunya and somewhere adventurous
This week's goals:
Rest - Tick
Climb again at the weekend - Tick
M: rest
T: AM Buthier ticked a 6A I failed on at christmas as a warm up
Did some bits and walked abit Tried a 6B
PM Elephant Ticked a 6A that I have not done but tried on every trip. SPent the rest of the day chatting to neil from Maison bleau and trying a 6C. I got burnt off by Jimmy Webb on the 6C which was nice.
Kicked a log to snap it making a fire. Failed to break it and knee hurt.
W: Drove home 11hours 20mins
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Rest 9.31km walk with 139m ascent, Knee hurt
S: Chew valley Challenge.
I had not planned to enter as my knee hurt but decided to go anyway. Bought a cheap t-shirt from the crag station sale.
planned to walk around the resovior and boulder then sleep on my mat.
Someone was without a partner so we teamed up and went to robs rocks did three routes then went to duckstones and did a route then walked back down.
Walked 5.61km with 242m ascent.
2nded 2xhs and 2x VS
came 9th out of 10
Knee hurt
Next week Goals:
No plans
I went to font with no training or expectation just went to enjoy myself
I came back from a font trip with 4x 6A after failing to get one on any of my previous trips.
Nice relaxing sunday involving walking up some big hills. and doing some short easy routes.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt - liking the witty style for the stats!
LTG (End 2014):
- Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Montenegro?)
- Complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race (not intending to be competitive, but still need to start running up hills again!)
MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
- Buy a house and build some home training facilities – progressing nicely. Instructed solicitors this week.
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham (had a weird allergic reaction last time I went on the extension) – yet more progress - bigf links on lead.
- Return to 7C+/8A f8b-ish link-up FA
- Bolt the Dinbren project (Bolts delivered this week!)
- On-sight some E5s in prep for...
- Brandler-Hasse Cime Grande
- Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
- Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF – 75.4kg and 6.6% BF this morning. More salad, less flapjack for fatty this week!
STG (The coming week)
- Keep physio’ing the shoulder
- Core, an-cap and aero-power sessions
Last week:
M - Core and physio.
T - Mtb Llandegla. Super tired but forced myself to do some cardio. Only managed the red, and not in a particularly fast time either
W - Dinbren. Worked Gwennan then did some 6c+'s to warm-down.
T - Rest.
F - Dinbren. 6b and 6c warm-ups, then did Gwennan (8a) 1st redpoint. Tried El Rincon (8a) briefly and did all the moves. Low gravity evening!
S - High Tor. Freezing in the shade, then boiling in the sun. Debauchery, Supersonic (repeat) and Lyme Crime. Need to grow a pair next time and get on Bastille.
S - Malham. Rose x2. Unjustified x2 dog. Good links on second go. Floor to crux in a oner; micro beta tweak on crux; then post crux to top. First time i've lead these links.
Cheers Matt - liking the witty style for the stats!
LTG (End 2014):
- Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Montenegro?)
- Complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race (not intending to be competitive, but still need to start running up hills again!)
MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
- Buy a house and build some home training facilities – progressing nicely. Instructed solicitors this week.
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham (had a weird allergic reaction last time I went on the extension) – yet more progress - bigf links on lead.
- Return to 7C+/8A f8b-ish link-up FA
- Bolt the Dinbren project (Bolts delivered this week!)
- On-sight some E5s in prep for...
- Brandler-Hasse Cime Grande
- Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
- Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF – 75.4kg and 6.6% BF this morning. More salad, less flapjack for fatty this week!
STG (The coming week)
- Keep physio’ing the shoulder
- Core, an-cap and aero-power sessions
Last week:
M - Core and physio.
T - Mtb Llandegla. Super tired but forced myself to do some cardio. Only managed the red, and not in a particularly fast time either
W - Dinbren. Worked Gwennan then did some 6c+'s to warm-down.
T - Rest.
F - Dinbren. 6b and 6c warm-ups, then did Gwennan (8a) 1st redpoint. Tried El Rincon (8a) briefly and did all the moves. Low gravity evening!
S - High Tor. Freezing in the shade, then boiling in the sun. Debauchery, Supersonic (repeat) and Lyme Crime. Need to grow a pair next time and get on Bastille.
S - Malham. Rose x2. Unjustified x2 dog. Good links on second go. Floor to crux in a oner; micro beta tweak on crux; then post crux to top. First time i've lead these links.
Post edited at 10:13
In reply to mattrm:
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall (TICKish), 11st 10lbs (TICK)
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 11st 10lbs
M - Rest
T - Digging out the stump
W - Climbing at Trebanog (RPed a 6b (ish) in a session!)
T - Rest
F - Finishing shed base
S - Digging out the stump
S - Finishing demoing the wall and some more digging
So let me explain the 'ish' on the 6b. It's a short route which is partially retrobolted at a local sandstone crag. This is the orginal description from the guidebook:
Firewater - E2, 5c
The left hand side of the wall. Contrived. 11m
It has two bolts on it, one about 5m up and another that's about 8m up. Basically if you fall off the top, it's a big fall and there's a bit of a slab at the bottom of the route, i.e. it's not as clean as I'd like. So I'm doing it as if it were a sport route. There's stuff all gear on it. Also the 6c that's next to it has been a bit too hard so I thought I'd like to get a tick for my ego. The route goes up the end of a flat and vertical wall, it's next to a corner which is a VS, 4c. There's about half a meter separating the two routes, it's a bit eliminate. So I climbed the route and near the top, bridged out onto the VS, to place a poor wire to protect the top out. All the hard climbing is gone by this point and it's just jugs to the top. I was doing it as if it were a sports route and just wanted something to make the top out a bit less nervy. My mate goes 'you bridged onto the VS, you didn't do the route'. Either way I'm happy that I found the crux of what's apparently a 6b really easy and was then able to place a wire after having done the crux. I went up to the second bolt on the first go (could have onsighted it then really). Then second go, I went up it all, got past the crux and finished on the VS. Third go, did it all and the proper finish, but had a foot on the VS to place the wire. Actually think there is a slot for a cam a bit further over and it's sandstone so it should be a good bit of gear.
Also I'm now at 11st 10lbs. Spent the weekend digging out a holly tree stump and also had the shed delivered and built. Then spent Sunday afternoon having a picnic with the wife and wandering around some local gardens. So quite good all in. Especially at the start of the week I'd been feeling really awful about climbing and lack of progress. Hopefully I'll hit 11st 7lbs over the next week or two.
Guess my new STG will be:
RP 6c
11st 7lbs weight
Consolidate (1/10) HVS leading
Second E3 (if I can find someone who'll lead an E3 for me!)
I'm also going to stick an MTG down:
RP 7a
Lead E1
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall (TICKish), 11st 10lbs (TICK)
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 11st 10lbs
M - Rest
T - Digging out the stump
W - Climbing at Trebanog (RPed a 6b (ish) in a session!)
T - Rest
F - Finishing shed base
S - Digging out the stump
S - Finishing demoing the wall and some more digging
So let me explain the 'ish' on the 6b. It's a short route which is partially retrobolted at a local sandstone crag. This is the orginal description from the guidebook:
Firewater - E2, 5c
The left hand side of the wall. Contrived. 11m
It has two bolts on it, one about 5m up and another that's about 8m up. Basically if you fall off the top, it's a big fall and there's a bit of a slab at the bottom of the route, i.e. it's not as clean as I'd like. So I'm doing it as if it were a sport route. There's stuff all gear on it. Also the 6c that's next to it has been a bit too hard so I thought I'd like to get a tick for my ego. The route goes up the end of a flat and vertical wall, it's next to a corner which is a VS, 4c. There's about half a meter separating the two routes, it's a bit eliminate. So I climbed the route and near the top, bridged out onto the VS, to place a poor wire to protect the top out. All the hard climbing is gone by this point and it's just jugs to the top. I was doing it as if it were a sports route and just wanted something to make the top out a bit less nervy. My mate goes 'you bridged onto the VS, you didn't do the route'. Either way I'm happy that I found the crux of what's apparently a 6b really easy and was then able to place a wire after having done the crux. I went up to the second bolt on the first go (could have onsighted it then really). Then second go, I went up it all, got past the crux and finished on the VS. Third go, did it all and the proper finish, but had a foot on the VS to place the wire. Actually think there is a slot for a cam a bit further over and it's sandstone so it should be a good bit of gear.
Also I'm now at 11st 10lbs. Spent the weekend digging out a holly tree stump and also had the shed delivered and built. Then spent Sunday afternoon having a picnic with the wife and wandering around some local gardens. So quite good all in. Especially at the start of the week I'd been feeling really awful about climbing and lack of progress. Hopefully I'll hit 11st 7lbs over the next week or two.
Guess my new STG will be:
RP 6c
11st 7lbs weight
Consolidate (1/10) HVS leading
Second E3 (if I can find someone who'll lead an E3 for me!)
I'm also going to stick an MTG down:
RP 7a
Lead E1
In reply to Ally Smith:
Witty? I did them after three beers on Saturday night at about midnight. I don't think I've ever been called witty. You've made my day there mate.
BTW, if some of you have had a friend request from a guy who's name is Matthew Moore, that's me, was doing some random facebook friending and saw a few of you all on facebook so added you.
Witty? I did them after three beers on Saturday night at about midnight. I don't think I've ever been called witty. You've made my day there mate.
BTW, if some of you have had a friend request from a guy who's name is Matthew Moore, that's me, was doing some random facebook friending and saw a few of you all on facebook so added you.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt.
I only felt happy afterwards. At the time i was gutted what's supposed to be an easy, juggy, 7b was feeling so hard and crimpy
Nothing to speak of this week. Lots of work and being unwilling to climb on plastic to save my finger has meant not a lot done. Did some runs and a yoga session. That's about it.
So i've set out an STG which is for the next week:
M - run after work
T - bike after work
W - climbing at horseshoe quarry ( long story not my venue of choice ) Yoga
T - climb after work
F - Yoga
S - Possible trad with JD ??
S - Moving furniture in Newcastle
I also need to do finger/shoulder rehab every day and drop .5% body fat.
Next week i'm only working one day after piling it in these last couple of weeks so i'm hoping to get out a couple of times at least.
MTG
Space race
Comedy or another 7b+ at Kilnsey
LTG
At least 7c this year and maybe pick an 8a project (that is NOT at Malham) to train for over Winter.
Some great climbing from Ally and Jimmy in particular.
I'm free all next week apart from Thursday if anyone is keen on getting out. Doesn't have to be Malham/Kilnsey, but not Horseshoe Quarry please !
Cheers Matt.
I only felt happy afterwards. At the time i was gutted what's supposed to be an easy, juggy, 7b was feeling so hard and crimpy
Nothing to speak of this week. Lots of work and being unwilling to climb on plastic to save my finger has meant not a lot done. Did some runs and a yoga session. That's about it.
So i've set out an STG which is for the next week:
M - run after work
T - bike after work
W - climbing at horseshoe quarry ( long story not my venue of choice ) Yoga
T - climb after work
F - Yoga
S - Possible trad with JD ??
S - Moving furniture in Newcastle
I also need to do finger/shoulder rehab every day and drop .5% body fat.
Next week i'm only working one day after piling it in these last couple of weeks so i'm hoping to get out a couple of times at least.
MTG
Space race
Comedy or another 7b+ at Kilnsey
LTG
At least 7c this year and maybe pick an 8a project (that is NOT at Malham) to train for over Winter.
Some great climbing from Ally and Jimmy in particular.
I'm free all next week apart from Thursday if anyone is keen on getting out. Doesn't have to be Malham/Kilnsey, but not Horseshoe Quarry please !
In reply to biscuit:
With two boys perhaps? Could be a nice day out for them if the sun is out.
Could organise a day swap? I'll even make you a packed lunch.
Im thinking a one month spanish sabbatical (sp?) during Winter...
> S - Possible trad with JD ??
With two boys perhaps? Could be a nice day out for them if the sun is out.
> I'm free all next week apart from Thursday if anyone is keen on getting out. Doesn't have to be Malham/Kilnsey, but not Horseshoe Quarry please !
Could organise a day swap? I'll even make you a packed lunch.
Im thinking a one month spanish sabbatical (sp?) during Winter...
Post edited at 11:26
In reply to mattrm:
M: worked until very late so nothing
T: BoulderUK maybe felt marginaly stronger than last visit but no breakthrough
W: worked late in office so nothing
T: Longridge, I could say I got close on second fifth and Grow wings but really I just failed on everything.
F: Drove to Lakes
S: Went to Reecastle, got on Finger Flake Finish to warm up which seemd to have fiddly gear but went ok, Thumbscrew felt fine despite the dirt and lack of chalk. Thought the old magic was returning until I got on the Gibbet and backed off, seemed really tough but I was pretty disappointed. Tried to top rope something harder afterwards. Was shocked to discover these are my hardest trad routes for three years and that I've only done a couple of days bumbly trad in that period, bought a new half rope so committed to doing some more now. Oops!
S: Woke up late and tired, too warm for Longridge to be productive so thought I'd check out Earl on my own as I never go there. Now I've been and have scoped it out I'll return but other than that it was an awful session. Got my pants pulled down by increasingly easier problems, got two flappers because of the heat and the final ignominy was backing off Erasor Slab putting paid to any ideas I may have had yesterday of reinventing myself as a trad climber. Went for a chapter 13 run (44:50) when I got home as I was so disgusted with myself!
> Does that mean you did Lobsession? Confused! If you did well done.
Yes it does and thanks. This and a busy work week means I didn't do a lot this weekM: worked until very late so nothing
T: BoulderUK maybe felt marginaly stronger than last visit but no breakthrough
W: worked late in office so nothing
T: Longridge, I could say I got close on second fifth and Grow wings but really I just failed on everything.
F: Drove to Lakes
S: Went to Reecastle, got on Finger Flake Finish to warm up which seemd to have fiddly gear but went ok, Thumbscrew felt fine despite the dirt and lack of chalk. Thought the old magic was returning until I got on the Gibbet and backed off, seemed really tough but I was pretty disappointed. Tried to top rope something harder afterwards. Was shocked to discover these are my hardest trad routes for three years and that I've only done a couple of days bumbly trad in that period, bought a new half rope so committed to doing some more now. Oops!
S: Woke up late and tired, too warm for Longridge to be productive so thought I'd check out Earl on my own as I never go there. Now I've been and have scoped it out I'll return but other than that it was an awful session. Got my pants pulled down by increasingly easier problems, got two flappers because of the heat and the final ignominy was backing off Erasor Slab putting paid to any ideas I may have had yesterday of reinventing myself as a trad climber. Went for a chapter 13 run (44:50) when I got home as I was so disgusted with myself!
Post edited at 11:52
In reply to Ally Smith:
I've been trying to stick to bouldering as I feel that it's all much higher quality than the routes in the UK. (This is my opinion unless it's Malham/Kilnsey/Anstey's.)
I reckon this has a massive link to why my psyche is so high, every problem I've done recently has been top notch and usually a classic of the area. I'm well aware I'm driving further and further away from home every time I go out at the moment though.
I'll be keen to get to Dinbren after I get back from Spain. I reckon I can fit in a couple of hours after work on week nights if you're ever available? Just send me a message.
I've been trying to stick to bouldering as I feel that it's all much higher quality than the routes in the UK. (This is my opinion unless it's Malham/Kilnsey/Anstey's.)
I reckon this has a massive link to why my psyche is so high, every problem I've done recently has been top notch and usually a classic of the area. I'm well aware I'm driving further and further away from home every time I go out at the moment though.
I'll be keen to get to Dinbren after I get back from Spain. I reckon I can fit in a couple of hours after work on week nights if you're ever available? Just send me a message.
In reply to pork pie girl:
Good work on a new high point and getting on lead. Out of interest, where are the 7th and 8th bolts? Presumably one of them is the immediately pre-crux bolt you clip off the chunky flake sidepull (the one with a thumb-catch that you hold with the right hand). Also, how's Toby getting on with it?
You must be praying for some overcast breezy weather - holding that tiny, sharp undercut and then the slopey pinch can't be pleasant on a sunny day. I love my conditions on the warm side but even I found Kilnsey a bit greasy on Sunday morning, though I was stupid enough to work a crimpathon with fingers butchered by a day's bouldering at Earl.
> reach a new high on baboo.. which means clip the 8th bolt, and at least slap for the crux hold .. which I think i can do.
> PPG
> PPG
Good work on a new high point and getting on lead. Out of interest, where are the 7th and 8th bolts? Presumably one of them is the immediately pre-crux bolt you clip off the chunky flake sidepull (the one with a thumb-catch that you hold with the right hand). Also, how's Toby getting on with it?
You must be praying for some overcast breezy weather - holding that tiny, sharp undercut and then the slopey pinch can't be pleasant on a sunny day. I love my conditions on the warm side but even I found Kilnsey a bit greasy on Sunday morning, though I was stupid enough to work a crimpathon with fingers butchered by a day's bouldering at Earl.
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
I see you got it though so worth the sacrifice - nice one! I was at Earl onSunday and couldn't have imagined pulling onSloping Beauty in that heat (even if i was strong enough) so another stout effort. Its a shame how green Earl is, apart from the classics nothing there seems clean or chalked, very difficult to get a circuit
> even I found Kilnsey a bit greasy on Sunday morning, though I was stupid enough to work a crimpathon with fingers butchered by a day's bouldering at Earl.
I see you got it though so worth the sacrifice - nice one! I was at Earl onSunday and couldn't have imagined pulling onSloping Beauty in that heat (even if i was strong enough) so another stout effort. Its a shame how green Earl is, apart from the classics nothing there seems clean or chalked, very difficult to get a circuit
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt. I'm back in the game this week.
STG:
Get the miles in on the road bike
Keep the climbing fitness
MTG:
Etape Eryri Sportive (165km) in June. No time target, just finish.
Andorra "Volta als ports" Sportive (113km with 3300m climbing) in July. Target: Silver time of 5hr30m (gold: 5h20m).
Sport 7c
LTG
Sport 8a
Maybe Etape du Tour next year?
Last week:
M - Rest
T - 55km morning commute with 850m climbing. Lunchime bouldering, felt tired. 15km commute home
W - Rest
T - 66km morning commute with 1150m climbing. Lunchtime bouldering, felt great! Beer in the evening.
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - 100km ride with a monster 3800m of climbing. Average speed 22.5km/h. Super pleased with myself.
This weeks big news is that I've registered for another cycling sportive, this time in Andorra (3hrs up the road from me). The profile is very mountainous, which I why I did a hilly ride on Sunday. It went well but I did need a halfway break for a sandwich - there'll be no time for such faffing if I want to get the Silver time of 5hr30m, with the Gold time a tantalising 10 minutes less. We'll see.
Weight is a steady 68kg. Climbing is fine, I am in "holding fitness" mode at the moment while I focus on the cycling, so going indoor bouldering twice a week, just enjoying myself and climbing for fun.
Thanks Matt. I'm back in the game this week.
STG:
Get the miles in on the road bike
Keep the climbing fitness
MTG:
Etape Eryri Sportive (165km) in June. No time target, just finish.
Andorra "Volta als ports" Sportive (113km with 3300m climbing) in July. Target: Silver time of 5hr30m (gold: 5h20m).
Sport 7c
LTG
Sport 8a
Maybe Etape du Tour next year?
Last week:
M - Rest
T - 55km morning commute with 850m climbing. Lunchime bouldering, felt tired. 15km commute home
W - Rest
T - 66km morning commute with 1150m climbing. Lunchtime bouldering, felt great! Beer in the evening.
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - 100km ride with a monster 3800m of climbing. Average speed 22.5km/h. Super pleased with myself.
This weeks big news is that I've registered for another cycling sportive, this time in Andorra (3hrs up the road from me). The profile is very mountainous, which I why I did a hilly ride on Sunday. It went well but I did need a halfway break for a sandwich - there'll be no time for such faffing if I want to get the Silver time of 5hr30m, with the Gold time a tantalising 10 minutes less. We'll see.
Weight is a steady 68kg. Climbing is fine, I am in "holding fitness" mode at the moment while I focus on the cycling, so going indoor bouldering twice a week, just enjoying myself and climbing for fun.
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
hiya.. 7th bolt is the one after the traverse right, 8th bolt is the one you clip off the flat hold with the thumb catch
(we extend the third bolt with a sling so clip it twice) also clip the last bolt before moving out of new dawn and going right (with a long sling to prevent rope drag)as the bolt below is a bit of a spinner.. plus i'll clip everything in sight!
PS i extend the last bolt before the lower off with a sling and three draws and clip it off a side pull with my left hand.. bloody strenny..before doing those sketchy last moves.. toby just goes through as he hits that jug out left every time (goes of the good hold that can be crimped or used as a side pull with the ight hand.. he can do pull ups on it.. and does so (with feet assisting) to to wind me up as I have to use the crap sloper and lunge!) for me i've increased my success rate on that from 30% ish to about 70%
Toby's high point is the slap for the pinch at the crux.. he stuck it yesterday for a split second.. just a matter of time for him.. he's taking too long to actually make the move.. he seems to be clinging onto the holds just before that for 5 mintues before going for it!! he's doing really well.. doing it in two pushes every time... should have it soon.
yep praying for crap weather... it seems warmer than this time last year because I remember the heat became a factor for me on mescalito once it got to july... was ok before that... for me it was anyway.. then it was a right mare!
hiya.. 7th bolt is the one after the traverse right, 8th bolt is the one you clip off the flat hold with the thumb catch
(we extend the third bolt with a sling so clip it twice) also clip the last bolt before moving out of new dawn and going right (with a long sling to prevent rope drag)as the bolt below is a bit of a spinner.. plus i'll clip everything in sight!
PS i extend the last bolt before the lower off with a sling and three draws and clip it off a side pull with my left hand.. bloody strenny..before doing those sketchy last moves.. toby just goes through as he hits that jug out left every time (goes of the good hold that can be crimped or used as a side pull with the ight hand.. he can do pull ups on it.. and does so (with feet assisting) to to wind me up as I have to use the crap sloper and lunge!) for me i've increased my success rate on that from 30% ish to about 70%
Toby's high point is the slap for the pinch at the crux.. he stuck it yesterday for a split second.. just a matter of time for him.. he's taking too long to actually make the move.. he seems to be clinging onto the holds just before that for 5 mintues before going for it!! he's doing really well.. doing it in two pushes every time... should have it soon.
yep praying for crap weather... it seems warmer than this time last year because I remember the heat became a factor for me on mescalito once it got to july... was ok before that... for me it was anyway.. then it was a right mare!
In reply to Tyler:
Cheers, my success at Earl on Saturday was possibly driven by irritation. I had wanted to go to Woodwell - limestone bouldering to preserve my skin for Sunday at Kilnsey. Unfortunately I ended up sitting in a traffic jam on the A65 for over an hour - boiling in my cat before abandoning my plans and turning tail for the nearest shady crag. Conditions pah! They are no match for a thwarted moose. By the way, recommend Superfly - cool problem and you get a "Stick It" tick (accompanied by Ben Bransby saying "nice mono" iirc).
Cheers, my success at Earl on Saturday was possibly driven by irritation. I had wanted to go to Woodwell - limestone bouldering to preserve my skin for Sunday at Kilnsey. Unfortunately I ended up sitting in a traffic jam on the A65 for over an hour - boiling in my cat before abandoning my plans and turning tail for the nearest shady crag. Conditions pah! They are no match for a thwarted moose. By the way, recommend Superfly - cool problem and you get a "Stick It" tick (accompanied by Ben Bransby saying "nice mono" iirc).
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
Unfortunately Superfly is beyond my ability even on a good day but it is one of the many proud lines I'd like to get strong for. I'm still trying to work out what it is that keeps me and so many others away for this place, I can't think of any other crag with so many stand out boulder problems, I guess they're all a bit committing and there are no classic soft touches to bring people in. They missed a trick in the last guide by down grading Handy Andy's, they should have up graded it and the place would be brushed clean in no time
Unfortunately Superfly is beyond my ability even on a good day but it is one of the many proud lines I'd like to get strong for. I'm still trying to work out what it is that keeps me and so many others away for this place, I can't think of any other crag with so many stand out boulder problems, I guess they're all a bit committing and there are no classic soft touches to bring people in. They missed a trick in the last guide by down grading Handy Andy's, they should have up graded it and the place would be brushed clean in no time
In reply to pork pie girl:
Ah, so the 8th bolt is the one before it gets proper nasty..... a curiously draining clip given how good a hold that RH flake side-pull is. For me getting the pinch was only the start - getting the feet up and managing to gain the RH undercut always felt horribly tenuous. Though I know Toby for one finds that sequence pretty steady (must be a legginess thing).
Re the final bolt - I experimented with extending it but didn't bother in the end. Found that any extension sufficient to be clipped from a non-strenny position was too low to be worthwhile. Figured it was better to preserve my energy for climbing rather than clipping. I suspect a fervent desire not to fall a long way what was emboldened me sufficiently to make the move for the big jug!
Ah, so the 8th bolt is the one before it gets proper nasty..... a curiously draining clip given how good a hold that RH flake side-pull is. For me getting the pinch was only the start - getting the feet up and managing to gain the RH undercut always felt horribly tenuous. Though I know Toby for one finds that sequence pretty steady (must be a legginess thing).
Re the final bolt - I experimented with extending it but didn't bother in the end. Found that any extension sufficient to be clipped from a non-strenny position was too low to be worthwhile. Figured it was better to preserve my energy for climbing rather than clipping. I suspect a fervent desire not to fall a long way what was emboldened me sufficiently to make the move for the big jug!
In reply to mattrm: Cheers Matt!
PPG - sounds like you're making good progress on Baboo! You'll get there
Quick update this week:
M - nothing
T - run in
W - Biscuit Factory - good session, working out a v5, flashed another one (soft) and a v4 and made progress on a comp wall v4.
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - Cheedale - unfortunately a short session and managed to inadvertently sandbag myself and the boy by trying to warm up on a nails 6b+ on Two Tier. Got it second go, by which time another group had planted themselves on our intended route for the day! Had a go on Case Adjorned (thanks SidH for the clips!)and after working out the hideous start got up onto the headwall before running out of steam. Should go though with a bit more endurance / psyche.
S - bimble round the edges in the sun.
PPG - sounds like you're making good progress on Baboo! You'll get there
Quick update this week:
M - nothing
T - run in
W - Biscuit Factory - good session, working out a v5, flashed another one (soft) and a v4 and made progress on a comp wall v4.
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - Cheedale - unfortunately a short session and managed to inadvertently sandbag myself and the boy by trying to warm up on a nails 6b+ on Two Tier. Got it second go, by which time another group had planted themselves on our intended route for the day! Had a go on Case Adjorned (thanks SidH for the clips!)and after working out the hideous start got up onto the headwall before running out of steam. Should go though with a bit more endurance / psyche.
S - bimble round the edges in the sun.
Isn't The Bludgeon an E1 at Shepherds? It's a long walk-in from Pembroke...
Good week overall - especially towards the STGs. Weight slowly heading in the right direction and on Sunday I led four VSs including one I'd previously backed off (which felt relatively easy).
STGs:
Get weight to <69kg
Lead an HVS at Pembroke (Late May BH)
Improve confidence on multiple VS leads
MTGs:
Progress to leading HVS at multiple different venues (types of rock etc)
Indoor (Big Rock MK) - lead 7a's
LTG:
Big rambly mountain routes in VS/HVS range (possibly in Morocco)
Last Weeks progress -
Mon - rest
Tue - 3 hour session at the inddor wall. Got several 6b's worked a 7a, and was suprised to make it to the top. Now I need to get it in one go. Failed a flash attempt on a 6c slab gue to mis-reading a low down move.
Wed - 1 hour 3-on-3 football (CV) and 2 hours bouldering. Still working through the new route set to work out which are easy and which problems will need working.
Thu - rest
Fri - 1hr Yoga at lunch. Evening: serious BBQ session - probably not good for the waistline. Lots of planning for Sun
Sat - Various labouring work, but nothing structured
Sun - Headed to the peak. Plan was Baslow, but it was access restricted so ended up at Stanage plantation. Led 4 VS routes out of the box - none feeling desparate. Then top roped (after a mates successful lead) Left Unconquerable, which felt suprisingly smooth. Resisted suggestions I should lead it. Another couple of easier routes rounded out a successful day. Ready for Pembroke now.
Plan for this week - Usual climbing sessions. Select good looking HVS's in Pembroke (preferably well-protected rather than bold). Climb the BH weekend away and get some stunning routes done in the S Wales sun.
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
Sloping beauty. What a last move! I went right hand over. Audacious.
Sloping beauty. What a last move! I went right hand over. Audacious.
In reply to grubes:
"I went to font with no training or expectation just went to enjoy myself
I came back from a font trip with 4x 6A after failing to get one on any of my previous trips."
I find this often myself, sometimes to the point that I don't even manage to get on a target route. When I go expecting nothing, I usually do well.
"I went to font with no training or expectation just went to enjoy myself
I came back from a font trip with 4x 6A after failing to get one on any of my previous trips."
I find this often myself, sometimes to the point that I don't even manage to get on a target route. When I go expecting nothing, I usually do well.
In reply to Paul Baxter:
It's just 'Bludgeon' no 'The'. Link - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=24692 it was my first HVS and while it was a bit committing in terms of you have to do a diff traverse to get to the bottom of it, the holds were great and there was loads of excellent gear.
Other HVSes that look nice are:
Riders on the Storm - Stennis Head (also a traverse)
Hercules - Stennis Head
Heart of Darkness - Mowing Ward (may be bird banned, not sure) - it's a traverse, so maybe not a great first HVS.
Frontline & Army Dreamers at St Govans.
Sunset Boulevard is HVS or E1 depending on the guidebook. It's a slab at Saddle Head.
Hope that helps in terms of recommendations.
It's just 'Bludgeon' no 'The'. Link - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=24692 it was my first HVS and while it was a bit committing in terms of you have to do a diff traverse to get to the bottom of it, the holds were great and there was loads of excellent gear.
Other HVSes that look nice are:
Riders on the Storm - Stennis Head (also a traverse)
Hercules - Stennis Head
Heart of Darkness - Mowing Ward (may be bird banned, not sure) - it's a traverse, so maybe not a great first HVS.
Frontline & Army Dreamers at St Govans.
Sunset Boulevard is HVS or E1 depending on the guidebook. It's a slab at Saddle Head.
Hope that helps in terms of recommendations.
In reply to mattrm:
Not bird banned. I don't think there's any restrictions on Mowing Word this year
> Heart of Darkness - Mowing Ward (may be bird banned, not sure)
Not bird banned. I don't think there's any restrictions on Mowing Word this year
In reply to mattrm:
12-18 May
Thanks again Matt. Stump digging sounds like an epic battle. Is it out now?
Fingers felt strong this week and managed usual hangboard programme knackered and with sore skin. Probably time to up the difficulty as have been on this one for a couple of months. Will keep you posted!
M – Rest
T – Rest
W – Boulder Reading. They’ve just reopened the bouldering area after a remodel. Not sure about removing the roof as it’s given two dark smelly caves… 20xgreen (v0-v2) 8xwhite (v1-v3) 3x pink (v2-v4) - 2 onsight 1 after work 4x red (v3-v5) - 2 onsight 2 after work Also worked other v3s-v6s.
T – Lead Brookes. Knackered and sunny so set a target of 6 routes and hangboard to keep ticking over. All clean but even 6a+ felt hard today.
F - Rest
S – Boulder Higgar Tor/Burbage North. 6 V2/v3s onsight outside which I’m very pleased with. Two pocket sitter is a cracker!
S – Boulder Stanage Apparent North x 20 up to V2. Hot and tired but happy with volume of routes. Grand Theft Area needs coming back to!
12-18 May
Thanks again Matt. Stump digging sounds like an epic battle. Is it out now?
Fingers felt strong this week and managed usual hangboard programme knackered and with sore skin. Probably time to up the difficulty as have been on this one for a couple of months. Will keep you posted!
M – Rest
T – Rest
W – Boulder Reading. They’ve just reopened the bouldering area after a remodel. Not sure about removing the roof as it’s given two dark smelly caves… 20xgreen (v0-v2) 8xwhite (v1-v3) 3x pink (v2-v4) - 2 onsight 1 after work 4x red (v3-v5) - 2 onsight 2 after work Also worked other v3s-v6s.
T – Lead Brookes. Knackered and sunny so set a target of 6 routes and hangboard to keep ticking over. All clean but even 6a+ felt hard today.
F - Rest
S – Boulder Higgar Tor/Burbage North. 6 V2/v3s onsight outside which I’m very pleased with. Two pocket sitter is a cracker!
S – Boulder Stanage Apparent North x 20 up to V2. Hot and tired but happy with volume of routes. Grand Theft Area needs coming back to!
In reply to Just Tintin:
My family flat refused to allow me on Grand Theft because of the landing, but grudging allowed me to do Zorro as long as I downclimbed rather than topped out!
My family flat refused to allow me on Grand Theft because of the landing, but grudging allowed me to do Zorro as long as I downclimbed rather than topped out!
In reply to Nick Russell:
Yeah, it's green at the moment.
RAD for pembs - https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/Search.aspx?s=71&t=&r=34
RAD for Mowing Ward - https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=429
Just Tintin - sadly still going. Yes, it is a bit of an epic. If you've ever dug out a tree stump, then you'll know that it is a bit of a battle. I had to dig the slope out a bit more last night instead as I was worried that the rain would wash the loose soil down the slope. Hopefully when I'm back from the Lakes next week, I'll be able to start on the retaining wall. Then it'll be nearly done. Which is a relief.
Which reminds me, I don't know if I'll be near a PC over the Bank Holiday weekend, so is someone able to post up the stats if I email them to you?
> Not bird banned. I don't think there's any restrictions on Mowing Word this year
Yeah, it's green at the moment.
RAD for pembs - https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/Search.aspx?s=71&t=&r=34
RAD for Mowing Ward - https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=429
Just Tintin - sadly still going. Yes, it is a bit of an epic. If you've ever dug out a tree stump, then you'll know that it is a bit of a battle. I had to dig the slope out a bit more last night instead as I was worried that the rain would wash the loose soil down the slope. Hopefully when I'm back from the Lakes next week, I'll be able to start on the retaining wall. Then it'll be nearly done. Which is a relief.
Which reminds me, I don't know if I'll be near a PC over the Bank Holiday weekend, so is someone able to post up the stats if I email them to you?
In reply to hms:
Ha! Yes, having only discovered it at the end of the session we knocked out a couple on the Grand Theft Block instead, and will come back to that fresh and with an extra mat!
Ha! Yes, having only discovered it at the end of the session we knocked out a couple on the Grand Theft Block instead, and will come back to that fresh and with an extra mat!
In reply to mattrm:
Very late, oops...
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Boulder. 1x V5 and another in 2 sections. Pressups.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Short and very careful campus. Backed off as tweaked forearm wasn't happy. Bouldered for a bit, tired.
Fri - Boulder. Rubbish, drank tea instead.
Sat - Rest.
Sun - Ban-y-gor. Got back on Hummin' Bird (7b+), which I spent a weekend on last year. Rock needed a good clean, moves felt nails and there were 3 bolts in a row at the top I felt unhappy to fall onto. Has anyone else been on it recently - am I just being paranoid?! Sacked it off it favour of getting totally spanked by The Beauty of it All (7a).
Very late, oops...
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Boulder. 1x V5 and another in 2 sections. Pressups.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Short and very careful campus. Backed off as tweaked forearm wasn't happy. Bouldered for a bit, tired.
Fri - Boulder. Rubbish, drank tea instead.
Sat - Rest.
Sun - Ban-y-gor. Got back on Hummin' Bird (7b+), which I spent a weekend on last year. Rock needed a good clean, moves felt nails and there were 3 bolts in a row at the top I felt unhappy to fall onto. Has anyone else been on it recently - am I just being paranoid?! Sacked it off it favour of getting totally spanked by The Beauty of it All (7a).
In reply to mattrm:
Sneaking in late at the back hoping no-one notices I wasn't around last week! Last two weeks:
M: 5M easy in 33:23
Tu: 2/3M easy in 16:03 + strides
W: Watford open 1500m race. Good conditions, ran well and took 7/8 second off my PB to run 4:01.3 - time to push on now and tick off the goal of sub-4! Really pleased.
Th: 6M Steady in 41:15
F: Rest - tired from work + playing it safe after racing well
Sa: Up at 4am to drive to France! pm - 7M steady in 46:25 windy (the weather, not me!)
Su: 90 mins steady ~13M
~40M Total and another PB!
M: 6/7M Steady in 41:17 windy
Tu: am - 4/5M Steady in 29:58, pm - Session 8min tempo (5min jog), 6 x 1min (1 min jog), 3 x 30 sec (1 min). 7/8M
W: 8/9M steady in 54:28 - windy + warm
Th: am - 5/6M easy in 40:28, pm - 5/6M steady in 32:25
F: am - session 6 x 2:15 (90 sec between reps then 4 min recovery), 4 x 30 sec (60 sec recovery) windy + warm 8M
Sa: Drive back to UK, tired
Su: 90mins steady 12/13M
60M total. Good week, apart from going on holiday to the windiest area of France it would seem. Have another week of training then taper for first attempt at a 5000m race this season.
Sneaking in late at the back hoping no-one notices I wasn't around last week! Last two weeks:
M: 5M easy in 33:23
Tu: 2/3M easy in 16:03 + strides
W: Watford open 1500m race. Good conditions, ran well and took 7/8 second off my PB to run 4:01.3 - time to push on now and tick off the goal of sub-4! Really pleased.
Th: 6M Steady in 41:15
F: Rest - tired from work + playing it safe after racing well
Sa: Up at 4am to drive to France! pm - 7M steady in 46:25 windy (the weather, not me!)
Su: 90 mins steady ~13M
~40M Total and another PB!
M: 6/7M Steady in 41:17 windy
Tu: am - 4/5M Steady in 29:58, pm - Session 8min tempo (5min jog), 6 x 1min (1 min jog), 3 x 30 sec (1 min). 7/8M
W: 8/9M steady in 54:28 - windy + warm
Th: am - 5/6M easy in 40:28, pm - 5/6M steady in 32:25
F: am - session 6 x 2:15 (90 sec between reps then 4 min recovery), 4 x 30 sec (60 sec recovery) windy + warm 8M
Sa: Drive back to UK, tired
Su: 90mins steady 12/13M
60M total. Good week, apart from going on holiday to the windiest area of France it would seem. Have another week of training then taper for first attempt at a 5000m race this season.
In reply to mattrm: Cheers Matt!
Been mega busy decorating our new house every day after work...
Monday: Work Gym Session:
10 Wide Grip Pull-Ups
Deadhangs:
3 x 10 secs - 30mm edge
First Joint Edge:
2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs
10kg - 7secs, 7secs, 10secs
Tuesday: Decorating
Wednesday: Decorating
Thursday: Rhiw Goch
Did "Ride the Wild Smurf" (6C+) in a few goes.
Spent the rest of the session falling off latching the top of White Rider...
Friday: Decorating
Saturday: Decorating
Sunday: Late evening session at Hope Mountain
Repeated some easier stuff and then did some 6B I haven't done before.
Worked the moves on the slopey 6C+ traverse and came very close on the Roof LH (6C++!)
Been mega busy decorating our new house every day after work...
Monday: Work Gym Session:
10 Wide Grip Pull-Ups
Deadhangs:
3 x 10 secs - 30mm edge
First Joint Edge:
2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs
10kg - 7secs, 7secs, 10secs
Tuesday: Decorating
Wednesday: Decorating
Thursday: Rhiw Goch
Did "Ride the Wild Smurf" (6C+) in a few goes.
Spent the rest of the session falling off latching the top of White Rider...
Friday: Decorating
Saturday: Decorating
Sunday: Late evening session at Hope Mountain
Repeated some easier stuff and then did some 6B I haven't done before.
Worked the moves on the slopey 6C+ traverse and came very close on the Roof LH (6C++!)
In reply to mattrm:
I'm in Leeds for the bank holiday weekend. Are any of the Malham/Almscliff regulars going to be there at some point? I'd be keen to get out!
I'm in Leeds for the bank holiday weekend. Are any of the Malham/Almscliff regulars going to be there at some point? I'd be keen to get out!
In reply to Curious Yellow:
No, but I have been on Almost Me and would like to do Hummin' Bird too at some point. If you're in the area again let me know.
Let me take a guess... you cruised up to the final bolt and then that finger crack hurt so much that the final move felt desperate? Did that a couple of weeks ago!
> Got back on Hummin' Bird (7b+)... Has anyone else been on it recently?
No, but I have been on Almost Me and would like to do Hummin' Bird too at some point. If you're in the area again let me know.
> totally spanked by The Beauty of it All (7a).
Let me take a guess... you cruised up to the final bolt and then that finger crack hurt so much that the final move felt desperate? Did that a couple of weeks ago!
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