/ Axe and crampon marks on *natural* grit

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JdotP - on 18 May 2014

I am not usually one to get worked up about ethical debates, but I was out this afternoon for a little fell run / solo at Laddow rocks and noticed what appear to be axe / crampon marks all the way up 2 routes. They are Tuppence Ha'penny and Route 1, on very good quality (and surprisingly clean) natural gritstone on one of the smaller buttresses towards the southern end.

I note that in the case of Route 1 the damage has already been noted in someone's UKC log.

Given the relatively high altitude of the crag, these marks could possibly have come from a genuine winter ascent rather than dry tooling, but surely on good quality natural gritstone that doesn't make it ok?

EDIT: I tried to contact crag moderator, but he/she is "currently restricted from posting"
Post edited at 22:46
Frank the Husky - on 19 May 2014
In reply to JdotP: There is always the chance that the marks are from last century when Laddow was popular amongst the hobnailed boot brigade. Do the marks look new to you?

JdotP - on 19 May 2014
In reply to Frank the Husky:

> There is always the chance that the marks are from last century when Laddow was popular amongst the hobnailed boot brigade. Do the marks look new to you?

I wouldn't quite say "new" but I would be very surprised if they were a century old! I think if they were a century old by now the marked rock would have started to go back to its old colour and get lichen on it.
Offwidth - on 19 May 2014
In reply to JdotP:

They are almost certainly from the last couple of years. Some people are climbing these routes when they think they are in acceptable winter nick. Obviously it shouldnt be happening.
JdotP - on 20 May 2014
In reply to Offwidth:

> They are almost certainly from the last couple of years. Some people are climbing these routes when they think they are in acceptable winter nick. Obviously it shouldnt be happening.

But it appears from the replies to this thread (or lack thereof) that the climbing community thinks this is acceptable as long as it is not a roadside crag!
davidbeynon - on 20 May 2014
In reply to JdotP:

I disagree. I think the message that we can take away is that grit is now fair game and it's time to take the tools down to Stanage!

:)
Frank the Husky - on 20 May 2014
In reply to davidbeynon: I know, I remember the self righteous furore when some guys used tools at Millstone. The bonus here is that when we have placed belay bolts, climbing bolts or lower offs in the moorland areas no one says a damn thing and we can just get on with having a nice time.


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