UKC

Full crimp strength

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 JimboWizbo 19 May 2014
There's a boulder at my local crag that I think might be a goer for me, it's a higher grade than anything I've bouldered before and to do it I need to get a tad stronger on full crimps.

Not wishing to injure myself, I'm wondering if anyone has any experience training specifically for steep, powerful moves off full crimps.
 Dandan 19 May 2014
In reply to JimboWizbo:
I followed Chris Webb Parsons hangboard program for 6 weeks and drastically improved my crimp strength, I went from barely being able to hang a campus rung one handed for 1 second to hanging for 8-10 seconds.
vimeo.com/61430224 (he talks a LOT but stick with it)
I would have started another cycle but I managed to break myself (in an unrelated incident) so I never really got to see how it helped on many problems, i know it's not closed crimps but with that kind of improvement you'd barely even need to closed crimp!
Post edited at 12:55
 Charlie Noakes 19 May 2014
In reply to Dandan:

I've also been following the CWP hangboard program as well for about 12 weeks. When I started I could barely hang the edge on the beastmaker (same one he uses in the video) and now I can hang it unassisted for 5-6 seconds. I can now also do a full one armer, which I was not expecting! The only adjustment I've made to the original program is the first set of hangs, which I do not do with a straight arm as CWP suggests but a slightly bent arm with shoulder and elbow engaged.

I find training finger strength this way far more secure and controlled than using a training board/moon board, on which I have injured my fingers a few times in the past.

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