In reply to paul fleuriot:
I would be quite surprised if the big mountain crags were dry yet. Especially the North Face of the Ben. Shelterstone, Creag an dubh loch, Ben Nevis all face North. In my experience, even in the middle of summer, on these crags, I am climbing in my down jacket and always feeling cold, 2 to 5 celcius is pretty normal in July/August. And May isn't the middle of summer!
For mountain crags, I might be tempted to try Glen Coe. I've not been up there recently but there are loads of great routes, plenty of East and West facing crags and many of the crags are quite a bit lower down than the really big mountain faces.
If you are set on a really big route, I think your best bet (besides tackling the horrors of St Johns head!) might be Carn Mor Crag, it's not so high up and faces South. But it's about 5 hours to walk in to it so you need to be commited!
Depends a lot how far up you want to go but a couple of my favourite crags are:
Sheigra - great routes at your grade with amazing atmosphere and awesome rock.
Reiff - Lots of routes at every grade, amazing rock, relatively short pitches but the climbing is densely packed into them. Also the weather here is often much better than almost anywhere else.
Diabeg - Every route on Main Wall is good and at E2 you must do the Pillar. Can get midgy there so pick a breezy day or one with strong sunshine.
Suidhe Biorach on Skye is a great place to try some E3s if you want to push your grade. There are several really amazing low-in-the-grade E3s there.
Skye is a great place to go overall because if you are hot on the weather forecast you can avoid a surprising amount of the bad weather, you can climb at Neist in the North, Suide Biorach in the South, the Cullin itself in the West and Kilt Rock in the East. If you can get on the Cullin, do so; it's amazing rock, sure it will shred your fingertips after 4 crimps but it teaches you a new definition in friction! Vulcan Wall is a really nice line and there are several others around that route that are great too. Though on your first day of good Cullin weather you probably want to head up something that takes in the Cioch to tick the Highlander reenactment if nothing else!
On sea cliffs you should generally be safe from midges and if you go to a high up North face then you will be fine too because it's too cold for them up there.
Basically, the further North and West you go in Scotland, the greater the climbing and the fewer the people. Tis a wonderful country!
