UKC

Dose anyone know if there is a guide book or somewhere online that has a step by step route discription for Mittellegi ridge??

In reply to Billybravo:

Yes I do know. There isn't! Once at the hut "go up" is about sufficient description. It is steep in places with some large fixed ropes. Try the AC Bernese Oberland guide for how to approach etc. Very good.

In reply to MG:
Ok thanks, i want to descend the South Ridge to Mönchsjoch Hut. Is the route finding on this difficult? From what I have been reading this is the hard part.

In reply to Billybravo:


No real route finding problems as I recall but fairly sustained climbing at about AD. The South Ridge is a mixture of down climbing with some abseils. The traverse that follows to the Monchjoch hut is quite fiddly in places (short up and down rock sections with interspersed ice and snow.)

I think, BTW, the normal approach to the Mittelegi is now from the Grindlewald side. We did it from the train on the other side by getting out at Eismeer. I'm not sure how safe/feasible this is now, but if it is possible, it is quite fun coming out of a rabbit warren of tunnels.

In reply to Billybravo:


As MG says no real route finding problems ascending the Mittellegi or descending the South Ridge to the Monchsjoch Hut via the North and South Eigerjochs. The Mittellegi Hut is most easily acessed from the Eismeer Station via the Challifirn Glacier and is in an amazing location, plus the old boy who runs it is an absolute legend! Good luck and enjoy as it is an amazing day out and if interested the following is a quick film from my tour with my buddies last August 2013!
youtube.com/watch?v=kwAy1T-BP4Q&

In reply to Billybravo:

Approaching from Grindelwald is basically a much bigger and harder route, the Integrale. From Eismeer there are a couple of pitches which are a bit tricky in big boots, but there is a fixed rope. It's a spectacular outing all round.

In reply to Billybravo:

I was on it last year. Fantastic route and you can't get lost - but some terrific exposure. I don't remember any ropes on the 4c pitch going up to the hut but there were a lot of bolts. The actual ridge is adorned (unfortunately) with fixed ropes. Don't leave any gear out by the hut - a Czech party lost their boots down the lower part of the ridge when the helicopter came to make a delivery … I heard them on the phone to their insurance company trying to persuade them to deliver a new set of boots to the hut! Short video of my climb attached - it's got some shots at the start in the tunnels of the Eismeer station. Enjoy! youtube.com/watch?v=QVlXYx3YEXY&