UKC

Just got back from a very wet trudge to Lliwed and heading back to Snowdonia in 3 weeks time for 2 days.
I'm after some recommendations for long multi pitches up to E2. Preferably not in the pass as i've climbed at Dinas Cromlech and Mot plus Craig Ddu. Would like some big routes if possible at a new venue, doesn't matter if it's any grade Vdiff or E1, but preferably over 3 pitches if possible.

Any help please

In reply to chris fox:

A road less Travelled?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=65326

In reply to chris fox:

A good few at Cwm Silyn. Also Amphitheatre Buttress and Mur y Niwl on Craig yr Isfa. There's obviously loads on Tryfan and in Cwm Idwal.

In reply to chris fox:

Just buy that guidebook with Mallory's Ridge and Angel's Highway in it. There's shedloads of unfrequented mountain crags in there.

jcm

In reply to chris fox:

For a really good (long) day you can do the Cwm Idwal enchainment, starting on the Slabs and finishing on Glyder Fawr Upper cliff. Four crags to climb in the day, with a bit of a walk to the last one. Wide range of grades available at each crag. Good day would be East Wall Girdle (215m VS); Original Route on Holly Tree Wall (40m, VS); Groove Above on Continuation Wall (24m, S); Grey Slab on Glyder Fawr (80m VS). Plenty of harder or easier alternatives. A classic mountaineering day.

In reply to chris fox:

If you're happy leading up to E2 and the weather's been dry for a few days then you certainly ought to consider Cloggy. 6 or 7 pitch routes on the West Buttress and shorter but equally good on the East. Full of classics at your grade. Fairly committing though, especially if you've not been before.

Martin

In reply to chris fox:

Could have a look at Lliwedd (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1214), not sure if it further enough away from the Pass for you.

In reply to chris fox:
Hi Chris,

Great to hear you are getting out this summer. We will need to catch up again one of those days - Glencoe doesn't seem like 12 years ago!

IMO the three finest long routes in Snowdonia are probably:
- White Slab (E1/E2), Cloggy (the longest vertical Extreme in N Wales)
- The Groove (E1), Lech Ddu (a great route with multiple E1 pitches)
- The Grooves (E1) + Overhanging Arete Finish (E2), Cyrn Las (an all-time classic with a imposing Hugh Banner line to finish)

If you haven't already read my article on here http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=435 it has some suggestions for as good links-ups of routes varying from VDiff to VS. Remote routes like Reade's Route (VDiff), Crib Goch or Manx Wall (HS), Clogwyn Du high on Glyder Fawr are not that long but they are in superb situations.

I can also second the suggestion of either Amphitheatre Buttress (VDiff) or Mur y Niwl (VS) on Craig yr Isfa. I had two amazingly good days last Summer taking novices up Amphitheatre Buttress.

It might also be worth considering heading further South into Mid-Wales. There are some real gems of routes, although you will certainly get the traditional mountaineering experience complete with vegetation. The most obvious recommendation would be Acheron (HVS) & Doom (VS), both at Cwm Cywarch. I've only done the later but it was well worth three stars.

For more info there is a good article by Mark Glaister online at http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?item=128

Climb safe,
Mark

In reply to dapoy:

Thanks Dapoy, headed out there yesterday and it was all wet !

In reply to Bob:

Thanks Bob, i thing i may do Tryfan on one of the days, i did a hike up there in oct and scoped out a few lines, looks like a definite for one of the days.

In reply to Martin Hore:

Thanks Martin, Cloggy was my 1st option, i was up there a few years ago doing Piggots and onto Octo, and then climbed Troach. Was thinking of there and camping out if not too wet !

In reply to Mark Stevenson:
Hey Mark,
Good to hear from you and yes how time has flown since that trip up there. Definitely need to catch up again, i need dragging up some more routes. I still laugh at that guy in the glencoe hostel saying "Who shouted out in their sleep 'Paul Scholes is effin sh*te' and i said "that'll probably be me" !!!

I read your article a few years ago from your trip around the country ticking all those routes with great intrigue.
I'll have a look at your article tonight and Mark Glaisters.

Have you got yourself a fancy southern accent now !!!!

Chris

In reply to all:

Thanks everyone for your suggestions, plenty of ideas thrown at me, now i'll sit down at work and study the guidebooks

Chris

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Thanks JCM, i'll look into the guidebook. Any idea of its name? I've only got the Paul Williams guide

In reply to Mark Stevenson:

Elliw is pretty good there too.

I've never climbed there but Voie Suisse (and others) on Gist Ddu in the Arans looks pretty special however may well be submerged in moss and vegetables. Anyone done it recently?

In reply to Rog Wilko:

Just to up my cv in relation to one day climbing with you Rog, we added Clogwyn Du to that list of crags as part of our enchainment (I recently saw this mistakenly but charmingly referred to as an "enchantment" - probably a better word for it; it's certainly the one I use now). Thus our routes were Suicide Groove, Javelin Blade, Grey Arete and Hebenwi.

Mind you that was then (1986) and this is now (last night I didn't find S and VS at Wilton easy!)

In reply to chris fox:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=91603 on Llechog - haven't done it but looks interesting

Jabberwocky on Cwm Silyn - got rained of that in the 'Chernobyl thunderstorm' - I'm still a bit hot!

In reply to Martin Bennett:

Sounds like a more than respectable day's climbing to me! Hope you're not anticipating anything of that ilk with me nowadays.
Keep in touch.
Rog

In reply to chris fox:

Cloggy is great at E1 - E2 and routes like Silhouette and the Troach dry out pretty fast although these aren't long routes as such.
Craig y ysfa is well worth the walk in as well - it gets a lot more sun than cloggy. The E2 combination of Aura and pinnaclisma is amazing.

Don't dismiss the pass if you haven't climbed on Cyrn Las - The grooves is really good.

In reply to chris fox:
I second Cloggy. In good weather and dry conditions, there is nowhere to touch it. It has extraordinary VS climbs - Curving Crack has to be one of the very best anywhere; ditto Great - Bow Slab combo - and of course a multitude of amazing lines at higher grades. The setting is magical. To top out on the West Buttress just before the sun sets on this great line of mighty ramparts is a wonderful experience.