UKC

Recommend me sport routes at Portland

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 Ciderslider 21 May 2014
Tried sport climbing a couple of times recently and really like it. Can you good people recommend some sport routes/venues at Portland for a first visit - 6a ish and must do routes.
Cheers
Mark
 spidermonkey09 21 May 2014
In reply to Ciderslider:

Recommend Monsoon Malabar, the smaller arete just up from Pregnant Pause.
If you get to 6b ish Buoys will be Buoys is also excellent but might be a bit dusty.
 Pete Dangerous 22 May 2014
In reply to kingborris:

Stalker's Zone is very good but it's a long approach to a crag with only one decent climb in the 6a/6a+ range.

Pregnant Pause is amazing though and has other stuff in the area, Shit Happens Actually, Reptile Smile (high in the grade), Cakewalk, Aim High Shoot Low and Slings Shot (5) for a warm up. Very Sleepy River is very good at 6b also.

 Dandan 22 May 2014
In reply to Ciderslider:

Another one to aim for at 6b, if you ain't got technique, you ain't getting up it
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=14194
 CurlyStevo 22 May 2014
In reply to Ciderslider:

These are the best Ive done but any of the routes with 2 to 3 stars are good.

Consommé http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=14211
Reptile Smile http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=13218
pregnant Pause http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=13255
Monsoon Malabar http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=13250
Slings Shot http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=13220
The Price of Silence http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=13474

Pregnant Pause and Slings Shot are the best routes I've listed
 The Ivanator 22 May 2014
In reply to Ciderslider: Here's a ticklist of the best Portland routes from grade 5 - 6a+ that I put together a while back. I've done 30 of the 50 routes listed and they are all worthwhile. The list will take you to most crags on the Island.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=497
 The Ivanator 22 May 2014
In reply to Ciderslider:

Xavier's Wall at Coastguard South is your friend - five routes at 6a/6a+ and all with 2/3 stars. It is tidal so you need to time your visit right, and sometimes the routes get muddy due to run off from above, but if they are clean they represent some of the very best climbing at the grade on the island.
The routes all feature in the list I included in the last post. Due to the proximity to the sea and the scrambly approach it all feels abit more adventurous - the area has more of a Swanage trad atmosphere.
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