UKC

Anybody aware of easier routes on these crags? The Swiss route with variant appears to be the easiest on the Capuchin but anything on the Trident? I'd be climbing with people better than me but no super men. Topo's for the Trident?

In reply to glaramara:



Hi Glaramara

The Lepiney is the standard route on the Trident and the Summit Post page has a lot of good info:
http://www.summitpost.org/trident-du-tacul/153098
If you have a look at the images section there are a few photo topo's on there I think!

Cheers Dave

In reply to glaramara:

Not the Trident, but the Chandelle just around to the left of the Trident has a great combination of routes - Bonatti/Tabou 5c 6b 5c 6a+ 6b+ 6a.

In reply to glaramara:

Lepiney is classes different from Capucin. Strongly recommend Jon's suggestion of Bonatti-Tabou.

In reply to glaramara:

The Swiss route is the easiest on the Capucin, but it's no pushover, especially if you're not well acclimatised: solid E2. The descent, if caught in an unexpected storm at the top as I once was, is requires steadiness and concentration: abseils where the rope can easily snag on the pullthrough if you're not careful.

In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Jolly nice chap from this site sent me a topo so Lepiney is definetely on. Did we know it got done in 1919, wow!

In reply to jon:

See what my mates reckon but I think 6b+ trad may be pushing it a bit. certainly is for me.

In reply to davidoldfart:

E2 is too hard. Is that with the variation? i will already have been out for a month bagging 4000ers so the altitude won't be an issue though. Excellent technically speaking these frenchies ain't they??

In reply to glaramara:
See my profile pic. This is me on the true summit of Le Trident taken from the opposite false summit.

Its a good day's climb with one reasonably stiff pitch (poss UK HVS?) which is well protected.

Not done the Grand Capuchin but it is significantly more serious than Le Trident.

In reply to glaramara:

Ah, I thought as you'd mentioned the Swiss route on the Cap then it'd be OK. To the right of the Grand Cap is the Roi de Siam. The Lifting du Roi is a popular route which is easier: http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/186443/en/roi-de-siam-lifting-du-roi

In reply to glaramara:

If you fancy something a bit bigger, the Gervasutti Pillar on the Tacul is long, but in good conditions, really not all that hard: HVS/A0 tops, I'd say. The hardest pitch is the slanting crack when you round the corner to the chilly side after the first 400m of lovely sun-kissed granite, but you can frig it all the way. Unless you get a very early start, be ready to bivvy.

In reply to jon:

Thats more like it, merci beaucoup.