/ best hvs at gogarth
Scavenger and britomartis
Dream over Britomartis in my limited knowledge. More history, more scale, more fear the first time you venture onto the slab.
Was gonna say the queue at McDonalds but I reckon that deserves E1
I've been told that the top of concrete chimney is weird and scarey,and better than britomartis or dream ????
Gogarth is E1! Not sure many would give it HVS.
Scavenger is definitely best out of those mentioned thus far in my opinion.
Having put off climbing it for ages, I finally got around to climbing Concrete Chimney a few weeks back. Turns out it doesn't actually involve any chimneying, or concrete for that matter, and is excellent. I haven't done the link up yet but I reckon the Concrete Dream has got to be a contender for best HVS at Gogarth.
Nothing weird about the top pitch of Concrete chimney, although the line is not obvious at first. Thought Concrete was best, followed by Britomartis, then Dream.
neither - the main cliff girdle
I thought that the direct version of Scavenger Pitch 2 was absolutely stonking.
However, the other pitches of Scavenger are not special. Wen Pitch 1/ Concrete Chimney pitches 2 & 3 gives a 'bottom to top' climb with more consistency.
Green Slab, Concrete Chimney or Scavenger Direct.
Green Slab is excellent, but clearly only VS
Scavenger and Dream of White Horses get my vote, Hustler is really good as well.
Scavenger is the best I've done there but having not yet done concrete chimney I cannot say its the best. Dream is pretty darn special but scavenger is a true Hvs experience.
Mousetrap (In my original guide at least) Failing that Concrete Chimney
I was going along with the faint-hearted majority for once just so I could get it into this thread.
Thanks i hadn't considered scavenger but i will now have a good look at it.Only got Sunday,Monday and my partner will want to drag me up some e2 and god forbid e3,s.So i need to choose wisely when its my go.
You climb up a couple of slabby corner things, then traverse right and up a bit of a wall... As that eases off onto grass, the birds swoop, vomit, try to take your eyes out. Is that classic?
I obviously got Green Slab all wrong, I thought it was about E2 4b, crap pro and belays and the finish was seriously life threatening. And that is from a Swanage and Gogarth regular. Mousetrap was grades easier.
If a HVS leader got on mousetrap they would be terrified
My thoughts entirely. And to add to that, history alone is not enough to sustain a classic.
We obviously had a different experience on Mousetrap!
Agree with you about the finish on Green Slab, like climbing chocolate brownie and cookie pieces swirled in ice cream.
Concrete Chimney for me, any day. I'm sure it would get far more plaudits if it had a more enticing name.
To be fair, the presence or absence of the pegs must make a huge difference to the feel of the route. Making a committing move into the chimney on pitch will feel totally different
When I did it ( mousetrap) there was no sign of any fixed gear. just rusty marks on the wall. Brilliant route just very committing. The climbing is easy just run out and scary.
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