/ best hvs at gogarth

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cheek to the rock - on 22 May 2014
Concrete chimney or dream of white horses?
Rory Shaw - on 22 May 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

Scavenger and britomartis
john morrissey - on 22 May 2014
In reply to Rory Shaw:

Gogarth
Dom Whillans on 22 May 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

scavenger
Hardonicus - on 22 May 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

Dream over Britomartis in my limited knowledge. More history, more scale, more fear the first time you venture onto the slab.
wilkie14c - on 22 May 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

Was gonna say the queue at McDonalds but I reckon that deserves E1
cheek to the rock - on 22 May 2014
In reply to Hardonicus:

I've been told that the top of concrete chimney is weird and scarey,and better than britomartis or dream ????
victim of mathematics - on 22 May 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

Scavenger.

saintlade - on 22 May 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

Gogarth is E1! Not sure many would give it HVS.

Scavenger is definitely best out of those mentioned thus far in my opinion.

Having put off climbing it for ages, I finally got around to climbing Concrete Chimney a few weeks back. Turns out it doesn't actually involve any chimneying, or concrete for that matter, and is excellent. I haven't done the link up yet but I reckon the Concrete Dream has got to be a contender for best HVS at Gogarth.
alan moore - on 22 May 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:
Nothing weird about the top pitch of Concrete chimney, although the line is not obvious at first. Thought Concrete was best, followed by Britomartis, then Dream.

Dave Ferguson - on 22 May 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:
> Concrete chimney or dream of white horses?

neither - the main cliff girdle
Andy Hemsted - on 22 May 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

I thought that the direct version of Scavenger Pitch 2 was absolutely stonking.

However, the other pitches of Scavenger are not special. Wen Pitch 1/ Concrete Chimney pitches 2 & 3 gives a 'bottom to top' climb with more consistency.
Pagan - on 22 May 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

Green Slab, Concrete Chimney or Scavenger Direct.
victim of mathematics - on 22 May 2014
In reply to Pagan:

Green Slab is excellent, but clearly only VS
Martin Haworth on 22 May 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

Scavenger and Dream of White Horses get my vote, Hustler is really good as well.
highclimber - on 22 May 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

Scavenger is the best I've done there but having not yet done concrete chimney I cannot say its the best. Dream is pretty darn special but scavenger is a true Hvs experience.
kevin stephens - on 22 May 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

Mousetrap (In my original guide at least) Failing that Concrete Chimney
Pagan - on 22 May 2014
In reply to victim of mathematics:

I was going along with the faint-hearted majority for once just so I could get it into this thread.
remus - on 22 May 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

The strand.
cheek to the rock - on 23 May 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

Thanks i hadn't considered scavenger but i will now have a good look at it.Only got Sunday,Monday and my partner will want to drag me up some e2 and god forbid e3,s.So i need to choose wisely when its my go.
John Stainforth - on 23 May 2014
In reply to john morrissey:

You climb up a couple of slabby corner things, then traverse right and up a bit of a wall... As that eases off onto grass, the birds swoop, vomit, try to take your eyes out. Is that classic?
Al Evans on 23 May 2014
In reply to victim of mathematics:

> Green Slab is excellent, but clearly only VS

I obviously got Green Slab all wrong, I thought it was about E2 4b, crap pro and belays and the finish was seriously life threatening. And that is from a Swanage and Gogarth regular. Mousetrap was grades easier.
john morrissey - on 23 May 2014
In reply to Al Evans:

If a HVS leader got on mousetrap they would be terrified
Jonny2vests - on 23 May 2014
In reply to John Stainforth:
> You climb up a couple of slabby corner things, then traverse right and up a bit of a wall... As that eases off onto grass, the birds swoop, vomit, try to take your eyes out. Is that classic?

My thoughts entirely. And to add to that, history alone is not enough to sustain a classic.
Post edited at 07:40
Al Evans on 23 May 2014
In reply to john morrissey:

> If a HVS leader got on mousetrap they would be terrified

We obviously had a different experience on Mousetrap!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=124887
saintlade - on 23 May 2014
In reply to Al Evans:

Agree with you about the finish on Green Slab, like climbing chocolate brownie and cookie pieces swirled in ice cream.
GrahamD - on 23 May 2014
In reply to cheek to the rock:

Concrete Chimney for me, any day. I'm sure it would get far more plaudits if it had a more enticing name.
GrahamD - on 23 May 2014
In reply to Al Evans:

To be fair, the presence or absence of the pegs must make a huge difference to the feel of the route. Making a committing move into the chimney on pitch will feel totally different
john morrissey - on 23 May 2014
In reply to Al Evans:
When I did it ( mousetrap) there was no sign of any fixed gear. just rusty marks on the wall. Brilliant route just very committing. The climbing is easy just run out and scary.
Post edited at 17:47

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