UKC

I think it maybe time for some new rock shoes. I have a good condition pair of Red chilli unsure of model, but i think i bought them in the wrong size, they have excess fabirc at the heel and do not inspire confidence.
I am sure this topic has been done to death but what can people recommend? I have slimmish feet and take a size 10 in 'normal' shoes? I am not keen to spend ridiculous money but £80 it about right.
I climb mainly indoor and sport routes on sandstone at around the 6b+ grade.

Thanks in advance.

In reply to adamholden:

I find La Sportive shoes fit my slim feet well.

I like and recommend the Mythos shoe. I find it fine on routes up to E2, although many people would tell you it is for more moderate grades. The lacing system allows precise adjustment.

IPP

In reply to adamholden:

Go to a good shop, try a load on, buy the ones that fit you the best! Anything other than that is just speculation on the shape of your feet or people telling you what they have...

A good shop will have good staff who will give you good advice.

In reply to adamholden:

...and in the shop make sure that you try smearing and edging with them. Get them snug, but not painful, no matter what you are told about tight shoes improving your climbing. Loads of people buy shoes which are too painful to ever wear and when you are starting out it won't make that much difference.

I spent an hour the last time I went, and I am very much a pop in and buy sort of a person for most things. But it was well worth it.

In reply to tlm:

And when you Know what you want, get the cheapest genuine online Price you can, and get the shop to price Match.

In reply to Choss:


I don't know. My time is more valuable to me and I am happy to pay the extra to support a good shop with helpful staff. But I guess it depends on your individual circumstances and outlook.

In reply to Choss:


And before you know it there won't be any decent shops left for you to try your shoes on.

In reply to yesbutnobutyesbut:


Why? Youre still giving them your custom and buying your stuff From them, youre just bartering on the Price, and getting Mates rates... You dont pay tag Price in Climbing shops do you? You get Mates rates. They get a smaller Profit on the item, but your repeat custom. profit Margin by Quantity.

In reply to Choss:

Except that you won't have to take a ticket and wait in an orderly queue to buy rock shoes - it's not a volume business, it's a specialist business and without specialists you'll have to buy your shoes from Go Outdoors or Decathlon.

In reply to nniff:


Or Cotswold, or Brigham, or any Other generic chain store.

i buy From a local shop that only sells Climbing Kit, and nothing else. Most Specialist shop there is. still does good discounts Though, except on guidebooks where he has no Latitude. So i Support a specialist shop, where bartering is part of the Experience, and customers are very loyal.

In reply to Choss:


Except there isn't a great quantity of rock shoe sales. How many truly specialist climbing shops are there in the UK? There's probably less than a dozen shops in the whole country that actually rely on climbing gear for their turnover.

The chains such as Cotswold make all their money on high margin clothing and volume discounts from suppliers as they have so many stores. For them to give away most of their margin on rock shoes is insignificant in their overall turnover.

They do however want to range climbing gear as it makes their stores look more specialist than they really are but the only way for them to shift it is to sell it at very discounted prices.

Giving top service and internet prices is not sustainable on climbing gear margins and in the long run specialist independent shop shops will disappear. Peglers, Wildtrack, Lakes Climber, Moorland Rambler are all examples of this.

In reply to yesbutnobutyesbut:

A couple of the running shops I have seen have a solution to this. Charge a 20 quid fee for fitting, which is then taken off the purchase price. If you refuse to work for free then it helps weed out time wasters.

In reply to Choss:

I believe I may go to the exact same shop (Bristol-based?), use his generous and knowledgeable advice and pay the price he puts on the tag. He's asked customers to come back later because he's been helping me fit shoes for 30mins and he's usually the only one working. I am paying the same price for the shoe as online, but I'm also paying for his time and experience.

In reply to Choss:


I sort of split the difference, I use different shops for different sports but only 1 shop per sport.
I build a good relationship with the shop and I have never had to ask for a discount as it's always been offered.
Some of the shops do price match but I don't check and push it, yes I could save a few more % but I think the offered discount is fine and value the advice and level of service far more than a couple of quid.

In reply to adamholden: I'll answer the original question before digressing about gear in general...

Despite what the manufacturers and retailers would have you believe, in the real world, what shoe you wear makes little or no difference. Find something that "fits", how it is marketed or what other climbers think of them is irrelevant. Although if you go for a popular model that is a big bonus.

I've found a popular manufacturer whose shoes fit well and I therefore know what size I am in nearly all their shoes. Their supposedly entry level velcros are more than good enough to get me up E5 and f7b. Since I know exactly what to buy and they are very common, I can pick them on sale up for no more than £50, sometimes less via ebay.

I've currently got three identical pairs on the go. Two pairs now have holes but are still more than good enough for most indoor climbing and easy routes. The oldest pair will go in the bin shortly as I've got a brand pair (same manufacturer, another model) that I bought on ebay ages ago sitting in a box ready to go.