UKC

Route recomendations Mont Blanc range

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 NeilOMalley 24 May 2014
Hi, whilst off on a mission on the grepon this summer my gf and a few other friends who have no alpine experience will be looking for something to do. I'd like to suggest something big as whilst in the big mountains I think they should make the most of it. All are fit and have varied climbing experience, all competent at the basics but have no experience with crampons axes etc. Something big with a bit of a thrill but with little danger where b1 c1 crampons may be needed, with good scrambling/perhaps a few proper pitches, without steep snow/ice slopes and with a high topout would be ideal. Any suggestions would be welcomed.
 Mark Haward 25 May 2014
In reply to NeilOMalley:

Hard to know what to recommend without knowing more about grades, experience etc. Most of the big peaks require reasonable crampon / axe / glacier skills. Some ideas that may help:

In the Aiguilles Rouges there are many summits that don't usually require crampons / axes depending on the time of year / conditions / skills. Good place to gain confidence. For example:

- Traverse of Aiguilles Crochues
- Grande Floria SW Arete
- Aiguille de Belvedere normal route
- Le Buet

With some crampon / axe / glacier practice a lot more will open up. On the other side of the valley these may suit:
- Aiguilles Moines normal route
- Petit Mont Blanc
- Aiguille de Toule
- Tete Blanche
- Aiguille du Tour
- Aiguille de L'M Normal Route

Have fun!!
 Alex Buisse 25 May 2014
In reply to NeilOMalley:

I'd advise stuff on the front side of Aiguilles de Chamonix: Petits Charmoz traverse, Papillons ridge on the Peigne, Pelerins normal route, M normal route. There may be a bit of snow left on approaches but it will be very minor with low crevasse risk and low angle.

There is also really good rock climbing around E1-E2, especially on the W face of Blaitière. L'eau rance d'arabie is a personal favorite.

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