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ailefroide route recommendations

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 alasdair19 25 May 2014
OK I have a week from UK. Want to do d ish mountaineering not couloir climbs.

For starters anyone climbed on the aiguille de salouze? The ad on the Petit pelvoux? Les bans by the D buttress route.

Sorry for the imprecision the toddlers hidden my guidebook....
 tjhare1 25 May 2014
In reply to alasdair19:

Hi,

Depends when you're going really! However:

- Petit Pelvoux S ridge, D. A quality mountaineering route. You won't find too many people on it. the rock is 'oisans', but excellent where it matters. No single bit of climbing is hard, but the ridge isn't too well defined in places, leading to route-finding issues. There's a long traverse left quite high up - don't underestimate its length. We were up there, wondering along the ledge (which is messy) and two others were above making a right hash of the steeper rock where they shouldn't have been! Also, don't neglect the descent of the Viollettes! Nearly 2500m down to Ailefroide, and without much lateral distance.

- Sialouze, D. The traverse is great fun, though of a COMPLETELY different ilk to the above. The rock is beautifully solid, the route-finding easy, and the climbing a pleasure. The descent is now very quick and safe (new bolts a few years back). A good two days can be had by going to the Pelvoux hut, doing the Sialouze one day and the Petit Pelvoux the next.

- Sans Nom, Voie Kelle, D+. If you want something truly 'traditional' in style, look no further than this; it's a choss heap with a few pitches on solid rock. You will be the only people there, and the ambiance is great. A long day though: guidebook time about 15hrs hut-hut, +2 for the campsite. Go down to the Breche sup. Sialouze as opposed to the other way - much more secure.

- Meije, D. One of the great routes of the Ecrins, though obviously round the far side. A phenomenal traverse, with stunning scenery; a very complete route.

- Ailefroide Orientale -> Centrale, AD+. Haven't done it personally, but it's supposed to be good.

- Ailefroide Centrale, Arete Coste Rouge, D. Again, not done it, but supposed to be great as a classic sort of Oisans ridge. Bit loose I hear though.

Hope that's of some use. For less serious rocky outings, consider the Cineastes, Coste Counier, and the Pic du Glac. Blanc S ridge - all very pleasant.

Tom
OP alasdair19 25 May 2014
In reply to tjhare1:

Thanks for that exactly what i was after. Should have said we're there first week in july.
 Martin Haworth 25 May 2014
In reply to alasdair19:

I will be there first week in July maybe see you in the bar. Send me an email and I can give you some recommendations.
 David Rose 26 May 2014
In reply to alasdair19:

I've done the Petit Pelvoux arete and the Sialouze traverse at exactly that time of year. Sialouze is really just a nice sort of warm up; the Petit Pelvoux more of a full-on grande course - never technically hard, but so,so l-o-n-g. A great outing, but do not underestimate it.

The Meije is also a big, though much more popular, climb with a brutal hut walk, to boot.

I've always fancied the Red Arete on the Barre des Ecrins S face, but maybe the claim in Oisans Moderne, Oisans Sauvage that the rock is ok is a dangerous snare.
 David Rose 26 May 2014
In reply to alasdair19:

Friends of mine who've done it say the Coste Rouge arete is really very loose indeed.

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