UKC

Can anyone recommend any crags and routes for SPA set ups (progressive beginner TR and BR) and lines for group abseils in the Peak? Going to visit some as part of SPA training consolidation. I'm guessing Burbage North, Stanage either end, Yarnclffe...anywhere else useful?

In reply to Just Tintin:
Froggatt.
and though not near the others, The Roaches

In reply to Just Tintin:

Please not Yarncliffe. It needs a rest from top-ropers and people abbing down good routes with dirty feet and wearing the holds off. Personal opinion, and ready to be shot down.
Also some of the 'instructor' practices I have seen on there are quite worrying, and their responses to a diplomatic comment even more so!

In reply to johncook:

I hope you won't be. The erosion on the descent route is already pretty bad too, it could really do without being used as an ascent route for a group abseil I would think.

In reply to johncook:

Fair enough! Although in reality I only want to recce likely suspects for a home paper on a quiet weekday morning and consider potential anchors rather than actually taking groups there...

In reply to johncook:


Since the holds are not going to grow back there seems little point in giving it "a rest", and perhaps it's better to let it be over-used to prevent such damage to better venues?

In reply to Just Tintin:

Windgather. Just go there, weep at the sweet group-friendliness, and keep it as busy as possible so the rest of us have an excuse to never go there. I never knew grit could be so dull.......

Jokin', I am. Although I'm not the worlds biggest windgather groupy. And it IS a great place for groups!

In reply to MischaHY:

Thanks!

In reply to Just Tintin:

Its too busy and too far from alternatives. It is really good for trad climbing but abseils are damaging the positive edges of the holds. Belays can be tricky for SPA multiple set-ups.... go elsewhere.

In reply to Coel Hellier:

There is just enough left of the holds on some routes for them to be still possible. Watching a dozen 'kids' in dirty boots abbing down the first E1(ish) and rounding off what is left of the holds is sad.

In reply to Just Tintin:

Windgather is pretty standard - roadside and easy climbing with decent but occasionally limited anchors at the top. I also vaguely remember being taken toproping at Harborough many years ago, but I've not been back since, so not really in a position to comment further...

In reply to Offwidth:

Thanks. What would you recommend instead?

In reply to Just Tintin:

Depends on the weatherHigh edeges can be very windy if they face the wind; you may need sun/shade.

Roaches/Skyline/Ramshaw for SW. Many for east (Wharncliffe esp good). Hobson Moor, Dovestones, Robs Rocks for NW. Always try to avoid 2 and 3 star routes as it stops queus and avoids polishing them up. Lots of more detailed ideas here:

offwidth.uptosummit.com/guides.html
http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/top_tens.html

In reply to johncook:


They're only accelerating the inevitable, we're all guilty of the same "damage" to differing degrees.

I can never feel sad when I see a group of kids enjoying the outdoors.

In reply to timjones:

I do when the access notes especically recommend no groups or recommend practices that are being ignored.

In reply to Offwidth:


I guess it depends on who or what the access notes are protecting?

I'm wary of any assumption that one type of crag user is more worthy than another.

In reply to timjones:

If it risks access by seriously pissing of a landowner I dont care what you think. Access notes are not made up.

In reply to Just Tintin:

depends on the group and day. Almost every Single pitch crag has group options depending on the group size and group goal. sometimes small sections of large crags can be gems you just have to get out and explore.

In reply to Just Tintin:

try a walk along Stanage and you'll find lots even gardoms has a few. Don't discount steep Descent routes as a climb for an absolute novice with low physical ability level. The unfit, the really young or old etc etc

In reply to Lukem6:

Yes indeed - have put my mum (totally blind) on ridiculously eliminate quarried steep stuff and she finds any tiny thing that's going!

In reply to Offwidth:

Dovestones as in Wimberry etc.?

In reply to FreshSlate:

Yes of course, the Chew crag.

In reply to Offwidth:


If it risks access then I don't think anyone would have a problem with it.

It's the grumpy don't wear out the holds for us proper climbers attitude that I don't like.

In reply to timjones:

Why would climbers not be grumpy about classics? Beginners wont understand quality so we may as well put the risks of flailing in dirty footwear onto less classic suitable lines. The BMC even provides guidance on that oount.

In reply to Just Tintin:

I don't know how the assessment system is now for the SPA but they used to choose Crags with more chalenging Anchor selection. Windgather is a crag where on some routes you have to be quite attentive to get suitable Anchors . There is no point going to somewhere like Yarncliffe which offers a multitude of tree anchors.
The OP isn't asking about crags to use for groups he is looking for rigging practice venues which will push his/her skills.

In reply to Just Tintin:

Birchen is popular with groups and has a lot of boring easy lines that get toproped all day every day, the anchors are not always that easy to find & it has such a reputation for groups that I doubt anyone will be annoyed by it...