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Hi folks I'm looking for some advice on a commuting bike. I currently use my mountain bike to get to and from work as it's only 2.5 miles each way. However I'm moving soon and my commute will be 11.5 miles each way. I know this is going to be tough going to start with, but it will only be a maximum of 4 days a week, probably only 2 or 3 most weeks.
I know nothing about road bikes and there seems to be a huge amount of choice so I need some help. Should I ignore these hybrid jobs and just look at road bikes/racers is there a difference? Realistically how much do need to spend to get something that will last? I don't have a lot of spare cash especially with the move coming up so I was hoping to get something in the region of £300, but if spending more is long term economical then I'll look at that too. What about second hand? There is a bike shop near me that sells second hand bikes that they fix up a bit first and offer a 3 month warranty. Any makes/models I should look at or avoid?
Thanks
Geoff
I know nothing about road bikes and there seems to be a huge amount of choice so I need some help. Should I ignore these hybrid jobs and just look at road bikes/racers is there a difference? Realistically how much do need to spend to get something that will last? I don't have a lot of spare cash especially with the move coming up so I was hoping to get something in the region of £300, but if spending more is long term economical then I'll look at that too. What about second hand? There is a bike shop near me that sells second hand bikes that they fix up a bit first and offer a 3 month warranty. Any makes/models I should look at or avoid?
Thanks
Geoff
In reply to Geoff F:
For a commuting bike, make sure you allow enough funds for lights, waterproofs and paniers. I'd have thought second hand would be a great way to go and personally I wouldn't bother with a hybrid as you are likely to get hooked on road biking.
For a commuting bike, make sure you allow enough funds for lights, waterproofs and paniers. I'd have thought second hand would be a great way to go and personally I wouldn't bother with a hybrid as you are likely to get hooked on road biking.
In reply to GrahamD:
Thanks for that. I already have lights and waterproofs, but hadn't thought of panniers. I was just thinking I'd use my wee rucksack that I use just now, but I guess that might get a bit sweaty over longer distances?
Thanks for that. I already have lights and waterproofs, but hadn't thought of panniers. I was just thinking I'd use my wee rucksack that I use just now, but I guess that might get a bit sweaty over longer distances?
In reply to Geoff F:
I'm currently doing 11-12 miles on my bike commute.
I wouldn't want to do that every day on my hack roadie (~£300 new on current frame), as the frame is made of scaffolding and the ride is quite harsh on those roads - so I'm using something way overpriced but at least comfortable.
For your money, I'd be looking 2nd hand, unless you can stretch, perhaps, to £500 as a long-term plan - economic, perhaps, as you'll get a better frame and reduce the need to upgrade cheap components. If you can get a good deal in a sale for about that money, then you're on a winner.
If I was buying a bike solely for commuting, I'd personally be looking for a road bike in the £500-700 range, I think.
I'm currently doing 11-12 miles on my bike commute.
I wouldn't want to do that every day on my hack roadie (~£300 new on current frame), as the frame is made of scaffolding and the ride is quite harsh on those roads - so I'm using something way overpriced but at least comfortable.
For your money, I'd be looking 2nd hand, unless you can stretch, perhaps, to £500 as a long-term plan - economic, perhaps, as you'll get a better frame and reduce the need to upgrade cheap components. If you can get a good deal in a sale for about that money, then you're on a winner.
If I was buying a bike solely for commuting, I'd personally be looking for a road bike in the £500-700 range, I think.
In reply to Geoff F:
I carry a rucksack with a change of clothes and a laptop and bits - sweaty doesn't matter, as there's a shower at work.
I carry a rucksack with a change of clothes and a laptop and bits - sweaty doesn't matter, as there's a shower at work.
In reply to Geoff F:
I think it depends on your commute. Mine is 10 miles each way, and I happily use a hybrid. I think it is the best tool for the job. In town, the more upright position is better for seeing and being seen. Yes, in a headwind, I'd prefer the dropped handlebars, but it's no big deal. A more road bike orientated hybrid is a better compromise.
If you plan to use your bike all year round, you will notice almost a complete lack of folk on dropped handlebars in the winter, particularly when there's snow (or rain!) You will go through the components due to grit. If you do go out in the snow, the straight handlebars make it much easier to control the bike.
Although they look far from cool, make sure you can get decent mudguards. I just use a small rucksack, and it's fine. Depends on how much you intend to carry.
I think it depends on your commute. Mine is 10 miles each way, and I happily use a hybrid. I think it is the best tool for the job. In town, the more upright position is better for seeing and being seen. Yes, in a headwind, I'd prefer the dropped handlebars, but it's no big deal. A more road bike orientated hybrid is a better compromise.
If you plan to use your bike all year round, you will notice almost a complete lack of folk on dropped handlebars in the winter, particularly when there's snow (or rain!) You will go through the components due to grit. If you do go out in the snow, the straight handlebars make it much easier to control the bike.
Although they look far from cool, make sure you can get decent mudguards. I just use a small rucksack, and it's fine. Depends on how much you intend to carry.
In reply to Geoff F:
Continental Ultra Race 700×25 - two punctures in first 3 days of commuting.
Replaced with Bontrager 700x28 Hardcase something or other, more comfy & no punctures.
Puncture resistant tyres are expensive but worth it.
Watch out for frame clearance if you want mudguards & fatter tyres (eg 28mm) if that is what you want.
My bike came with deep cyclocross rims which have coped with potholes.
Continental Ultra Race 700×25 - two punctures in first 3 days of commuting.
Replaced with Bontrager 700x28 Hardcase something or other, more comfy & no punctures.
Puncture resistant tyres are expensive but worth it.
Watch out for frame clearance if you want mudguards & fatter tyres (eg 28mm) if that is what you want.
My bike came with deep cyclocross rims which have coped with potholes.
Post edited at 13:27
In reply to Geoff F:
I use a cyclocross bike. I did use a hybrid for the winter and in the summer was using a road bike. The cross bike is cool because I can use tow paths and things like pot holes don't bother me overly which they do a bit more on the road bike. Slightly higher volume tyres with a bit more knobbly tread. It's also steel framed so I feel it's reassuringly sturdy. Also handy for the wet Manchester roads are the disc brakes which just occasionally come into their own.
Steel cross bike with disc brakes to be had for about £500. It's a lot faster than the hybrid. Cuts an 8 mile commute time by ten minutes.
I'm like a cross bike born again christian though, fanatical.
I use a cyclocross bike. I did use a hybrid for the winter and in the summer was using a road bike. The cross bike is cool because I can use tow paths and things like pot holes don't bother me overly which they do a bit more on the road bike. Slightly higher volume tyres with a bit more knobbly tread. It's also steel framed so I feel it's reassuringly sturdy. Also handy for the wet Manchester roads are the disc brakes which just occasionally come into their own.
Steel cross bike with disc brakes to be had for about £500. It's a lot faster than the hybrid. Cuts an 8 mile commute time by ten minutes.
I'm like a cross bike born again christian though, fanatical.
Thanks for all the replies. Looks like this is even more of a minefield than I first thought.
I will have a mixture of quiet country roads and busy town traffic to contend with. I plan to use it year round, but not when there's snow and ice around. It's bad enough on the mountain bike in snow.
Puncture resistant tyres look like a good idea and I'm thinking maybe a cyclocross or hybrid would be more sturdy than a road bike then? Also better in the wet?
I will have a mixture of quiet country roads and busy town traffic to contend with. I plan to use it year round, but not when there's snow and ice around. It's bad enough on the mountain bike in snow.
Puncture resistant tyres look like a good idea and I'm thinking maybe a cyclocross or hybrid would be more sturdy than a road bike then? Also better in the wet?
In reply to Scomuir:
Agreed.
Hybrid bikes work just fine for urban/commuting.
Upright riding position is safer and more comfortable in traffic.
Panniers definitely - makes for a less sweaty and uncomfortable ride.
Mud guards - highly recommended, otherwise you'll have a nice streak of mud up your arse and back if cycling in the wet.
Chain guard - I find this useful to avoid getting the flappy trousers caught in the chain.
Punctureless tires - a definite.
Rear vision mirror - some people hate them but I have a small one that attaches to the end of my handlebar and have got so accustomed to it I wouldn't go without it.
What kind of environment are you cycling in? If it is an urban commute with lots of traffic lights then I'd say avoid the clipless (clip-in?) pedals? I'm sure they are faster on long roads but its infuriating being stuck behind cyclists struggling to get off when the lights go green because they can't twist their shoes in to the clips.
Agreed.
Hybrid bikes work just fine for urban/commuting.
Upright riding position is safer and more comfortable in traffic.
Panniers definitely - makes for a less sweaty and uncomfortable ride.
Mud guards - highly recommended, otherwise you'll have a nice streak of mud up your arse and back if cycling in the wet.
Chain guard - I find this useful to avoid getting the flappy trousers caught in the chain.
Punctureless tires - a definite.
Rear vision mirror - some people hate them but I have a small one that attaches to the end of my handlebar and have got so accustomed to it I wouldn't go without it.
What kind of environment are you cycling in? If it is an urban commute with lots of traffic lights then I'd say avoid the clipless (clip-in?) pedals? I'm sure they are faster on long roads but its infuriating being stuck behind cyclists struggling to get off when the lights go green because they can't twist their shoes in to the clips.
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
This all sounds very promising. Any suggestions of makes/models to look for or avoid? Also where to get one, should I be looking online or just go to my local bike shops?
This all sounds very promising. Any suggestions of makes/models to look for or avoid? Also where to get one, should I be looking online or just go to my local bike shops?
In reply to David Martin:
Defo a hydbrid for commuting. Id not be caught dead on it on a club run but for a 14 mile commute its quick enough and I dont really care if it doesnt get a wash after rain, unlike my road bike.
More upright position for checking your shoulder, slick 700 tyres, and disc brakes for those times you need to stop fast in the rain.
If you'll be riding 11 miles youd prob be more comfortable in lycra so wouldnt worry about flappy trouser legs getting caught, so no need for a chain guard. Its just one more thing to get crapped up with mud.
Never had a problem with specialized armadillo tyres in thousands of miles of commuting.
Clipless pedals are brilliant. Those who struggle need to practise and appreciate their benefits more. In my opinion
Defo a hydbrid for commuting. Id not be caught dead on it on a club run but for a 14 mile commute its quick enough and I dont really care if it doesnt get a wash after rain, unlike my road bike.
More upright position for checking your shoulder, slick 700 tyres, and disc brakes for those times you need to stop fast in the rain.
If you'll be riding 11 miles youd prob be more comfortable in lycra so wouldnt worry about flappy trouser legs getting caught, so no need for a chain guard. Its just one more thing to get crapped up with mud.
Never had a problem with specialized armadillo tyres in thousands of miles of commuting.
Clipless pedals are brilliant. Those who struggle need to practise and appreciate their benefits more. In my opinion
Post edited at 14:06
In reply to David Martin:
There must be a lot of inept cyclists where you live. It's the first time I've seen the words 'struggle' and 'clipless pedals' in the same sentence.
OP: hybrid is probably the best way to go, or rigid 29er mountain bike with touring tyres. A hub gear will save a lot of maintenance as well, and if where you ride is flat, you could consider a singlespeed for further simplicity.
> What kind of environment are you cycling in? If it is an urban commute with lots of traffic lights then I'd say avoid the clipless (clip-in?) pedals? I'm sure they are faster on long roads but its infuriating being stuck behind cyclists struggling to get off when the lights go green because they can't twist their shoes in to the clips.
There must be a lot of inept cyclists where you live. It's the first time I've seen the words 'struggle' and 'clipless pedals' in the same sentence.
OP: hybrid is probably the best way to go, or rigid 29er mountain bike with touring tyres. A hub gear will save a lot of maintenance as well, and if where you ride is flat, you could consider a singlespeed for further simplicity.
In reply to Removed User:
Haha, I was thinking the same! Clipping in is automatic within a couple of rides. I even twist my foot to unclip when im riding flat pedals.
Haha, I was thinking the same! Clipping in is automatic within a couple of rides. I even twist my foot to unclip when im riding flat pedals.
In reply to Geoff F:
I have a 11 mile commute each way and have commuted with panniers and with rucksacks. Gave up on the pannier as I didn't like the way it spoilt the balance of the bike. After using a sweaty rucksack I am now using an 'airflow' type which is much more comfortable but admittedly still not as good as cycling without!
I have a 11 mile commute each way and have commuted with panniers and with rucksacks. Gave up on the pannier as I didn't like the way it spoilt the balance of the bike. After using a sweaty rucksack I am now using an 'airflow' type which is much more comfortable but admittedly still not as good as cycling without!
In reply to paulcarey:
I have two airflow ones. I still get a sweaty back (nice) but hey ho. I dont walk around work in my cycling kit.
On the days I drive I take a supply of clothes so i've less so carry on the bike.
I have two airflow ones. I still get a sweaty back (nice) but hey ho. I dont walk around work in my cycling kit.
On the days I drive I take a supply of clothes so i've less so carry on the bike.
Post edited at 14:10
In reply to Geoff F:
Try a single speed bike (doesn't have to be fixed, mine isn't) for the daily commute - means you have pretty much zero maintenance and don't get those tiresome repairs to gear mechs etc.
Once you have ridden it for a couple of weeks you will be used to the hills and distance and it won't be a problem, you will wonder why bikes need gears for commuting!
It's way cheaper in the long run.
Try a single speed bike (doesn't have to be fixed, mine isn't) for the daily commute - means you have pretty much zero maintenance and don't get those tiresome repairs to gear mechs etc.
Once you have ridden it for a couple of weeks you will be used to the hills and distance and it won't be a problem, you will wonder why bikes need gears for commuting!
It's way cheaper in the long run.
In reply to David Martin:
It's Pencaitland (East Lothian) to Portobello, Edinburgh. So a mixture of country roads and wee (but busy) towns. Although there is the option to add a couple of miles and avoid Tranent and Musselburgh making it mainly A and B roads.
It's Pencaitland (East Lothian) to Portobello, Edinburgh. So a mixture of country roads and wee (but busy) towns. Although there is the option to add a couple of miles and avoid Tranent and Musselburgh making it mainly A and B roads.
In reply to David Martin:
I feel the bike is more manouvrable with a rucksack - probably a mountain biking throwback.
Seriously thinking about one of these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Generic-Bike-Rear-View-Mirror/dp/B006WH4TXY/ref=sr_...
Mountain bike pedals are perhaps better for commuting, but if you can't get in and out of road ones, just keep practicing. If there's a handy railing, you don't need to un-clip at all - or learn to do trackstands.
> Panniers definitely - makes for a less sweaty and uncomfortable ride.
I feel the bike is more manouvrable with a rucksack - probably a mountain biking throwback.
> Rear vision mirror - some people hate them but I have a small one that attaches to the end of my handlebar and have got so accustomed to it I wouldn't go without it.
Seriously thinking about one of these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Generic-Bike-Rear-View-Mirror/dp/B006WH4TXY/ref=sr_...
> What kind of environment are you cycling in? If it is an urban commute with lots of traffic lights then I'd say avoid the clipless (clip-in?) pedals? I'm sure they are faster on long roads but its infuriating being stuck behind cyclists struggling to get off when the lights go green because they can't twist their shoes in to the clips.
Mountain bike pedals are perhaps better for commuting, but if you can't get in and out of road ones, just keep practicing. If there's a handy railing, you don't need to un-clip at all - or learn to do trackstands.
In reply to Geoff F:
One other thing to consider is the state of the roads on your route. I've just swapped from using a road bike to an old MTB for my 12 mile commute and although it's marginally slower, the peace of mind not having to dodge potholes in heavy traffic is definately worth it. It also gives me a variety of off-road options on the way if I fancy the 'scenic route'.
One other thing to consider is the state of the roads on your route. I've just swapped from using a road bike to an old MTB for my 12 mile commute and although it's marginally slower, the peace of mind not having to dodge potholes in heavy traffic is definately worth it. It also gives me a variety of off-road options on the way if I fancy the 'scenic route'.
In reply to Marek:
I was (perhaps mistakenly) under the impression that on a 12 mile commute I'd see significant time saving using a road bike or hybrid bike. Is this not so?
I was (perhaps mistakenly) under the impression that on a 12 mile commute I'd see significant time saving using a road bike or hybrid bike. Is this not so?
In reply to Geoff F:
I built my own. Old steel frame freshly powder coated off eBay for £35. Added a 3 speed Sturmey Archer rear wheel and scrounged bits of friends and old bikes. 700c x 32 Marathon Plus tires. Rear rack for a pannier. Great for commuting on towpaths or road.
Plus, when he needs repairing I know what to do cos I built him!
I built my own. Old steel frame freshly powder coated off eBay for £35. Added a 3 speed Sturmey Archer rear wheel and scrounged bits of friends and old bikes. 700c x 32 Marathon Plus tires. Rear rack for a pannier. Great for commuting on towpaths or road.
Plus, when he needs repairing I know what to do cos I built him!
In reply to Geoff F:
Yes, I think you would see a time saving. I switched from a steel framed hybrid to a carbon racer, and see a definite time saving on an 8 mile very urban (i.e. I also get held up by traffic as well as the actual speed of me pedalling) commute. I like the racer's riding position even in traffic, and commute year round on it as even though it was not a super cheap bike, it is still cheaper than taking the tube! The problem is that once you start down the road of getting lighter bikes and seeing a time saving which you can spend in bed, it's hard to stop/go back to something heavier...
Yes, I think you would see a time saving. I switched from a steel framed hybrid to a carbon racer, and see a definite time saving on an 8 mile very urban (i.e. I also get held up by traffic as well as the actual speed of me pedalling) commute. I like the racer's riding position even in traffic, and commute year round on it as even though it was not a super cheap bike, it is still cheaper than taking the tube! The problem is that once you start down the road of getting lighter bikes and seeing a time saving which you can spend in bed, it's hard to stop/go back to something heavier...
In reply to Geoff F:
A road bike would definitely be faster for the commute. It depends what you're used to. I commute 6 miles from the centre of Edinburgh on my "relaxed" road bike, but I'm used to a racing geometry. If you've only ridden mountain bikes it would probably feel really stretched out.
I use a backpack but I don't carry much stuff, just lunch and a folder with some paper. If you're carrying a change of clothes panniers start to become more sensible. If you're looking at road bikes be aware that many modern bikes do not have the mounting points for panniers.
Whatever you end up with, a rear mud guard is critical. Make sure you get one that fits inside the rear triangle rather than one clipped to the seatpost. Front ones are less effective (your feet will get wet either way) and I managed to rip mine off with my foot. My toes barely cleared the tyre without the mudguard, with it there was no hope!
If you do go with a road bike I'd suggest an aluminium frame, deffo second hand. I have a Trek Alpha 2.1 which is probably slightly overkill but it is very comfy and fast! People buy reasonable bikes in Edinburgh and then realise the roads are bumpy and it is "weathery" a lot and give up riding so you can usually find a good deal.
The more alu (less steel) you have the less rust you'll deal with. Also many recommend stripping the paint and making it look crap so people will be less likely to steal it. Depends where you lock it up.
With a road bike your maintenance will probably be higher because the parts aren't designed to have as much forgiveness as a mountain bike or hybrid with regards to muck. I usually end up doing a thorough cleaning once or twice each winter, but I fiddle with bikes as a hobby so its fun.
A road bike would definitely be faster for the commute. It depends what you're used to. I commute 6 miles from the centre of Edinburgh on my "relaxed" road bike, but I'm used to a racing geometry. If you've only ridden mountain bikes it would probably feel really stretched out.
I use a backpack but I don't carry much stuff, just lunch and a folder with some paper. If you're carrying a change of clothes panniers start to become more sensible. If you're looking at road bikes be aware that many modern bikes do not have the mounting points for panniers.
Whatever you end up with, a rear mud guard is critical. Make sure you get one that fits inside the rear triangle rather than one clipped to the seatpost. Front ones are less effective (your feet will get wet either way) and I managed to rip mine off with my foot. My toes barely cleared the tyre without the mudguard, with it there was no hope!
If you do go with a road bike I'd suggest an aluminium frame, deffo second hand. I have a Trek Alpha 2.1 which is probably slightly overkill but it is very comfy and fast! People buy reasonable bikes in Edinburgh and then realise the roads are bumpy and it is "weathery" a lot and give up riding so you can usually find a good deal.
The more alu (less steel) you have the less rust you'll deal with. Also many recommend stripping the paint and making it look crap so people will be less likely to steal it. Depends where you lock it up.
With a road bike your maintenance will probably be higher because the parts aren't designed to have as much forgiveness as a mountain bike or hybrid with regards to muck. I usually end up doing a thorough cleaning once or twice each winter, but I fiddle with bikes as a hobby so its fun.
In reply to Geoff F:
As others have already mentioned a cyclocross bike would be a good choice.
The only thing I really have to add is that if you genuinely want and do cycle daily come what may then you really ought to be looking at the quality of the bikes components. I've known a couple of people with bikes at the cheaper end of the market and a component has broken worn out and its like £50 to replace it plus £30 for labour. Not a fun place to be when the bike only cost £250 in the first place.
Might it be worth looking at whats available second-hand?
As others have already mentioned a cyclocross bike would be a good choice.
The only thing I really have to add is that if you genuinely want and do cycle daily come what may then you really ought to be looking at the quality of the bikes components. I've known a couple of people with bikes at the cheaper end of the market and a component has broken worn out and its like £50 to replace it plus £30 for labour. Not a fun place to be when the bike only cost £250 in the first place.
Might it be worth looking at whats available second-hand?
In reply to Antigua:
I'd say get a road bike, one with enough clearance for mudguards ideally. A seatpost mounted rack and samll bag is enough for day to day essentials if you can leave bulky stuff like shoes, towel, jacket at work. £300 generally isnt a good place to buy - maybe look at a 0% finance deal on a 500 bike instead, ribble audax or planetx kaffenback would be a solid starting point and unlikely to fall apart in six months. Dont forget that commuting lots really wears out the drive train on your bike - i do generally between 100-130miles a week and the rate at which chains/cassettes etc wear out is quite surprising.
I'd say get a road bike, one with enough clearance for mudguards ideally. A seatpost mounted rack and samll bag is enough for day to day essentials if you can leave bulky stuff like shoes, towel, jacket at work. £300 generally isnt a good place to buy - maybe look at a 0% finance deal on a 500 bike instead, ribble audax or planetx kaffenback would be a solid starting point and unlikely to fall apart in six months. Dont forget that commuting lots really wears out the drive train on your bike - i do generally between 100-130miles a week and the rate at which chains/cassettes etc wear out is quite surprising.
In reply to Geoff F:
Having only ever had one cross bike I'm not the person to ask about different choices I'm afraid. Got mine from Wiggle, a Verenti Substance but there's heaps and heaps of alternatives out there. Sadly I didn't have a Croix de Fer or a Surly budget. Sigh.
Having only ever had one cross bike I'm not the person to ask about different choices I'm afraid. Got mine from Wiggle, a Verenti Substance but there's heaps and heaps of alternatives out there. Sadly I didn't have a Croix de Fer or a Surly budget. Sigh.
In reply to Geoff F:
You're right, a road bike will be quicker, but I'm not racing. The extra 5-10 minutes really don't matter if it gives me a safer and lower-hassle ride. I also find that a rucksack is more of a nuisance on a roadbike than on the MTB (flatter back?) and none of my road bikes take panniers.
> (In reply to Marek)
>
> I was (perhaps mistakenly) under the impression that on a 12 mile commute I'd see significant time saving using a road bike or hybrid bike. Is this not so?
>
> I was (perhaps mistakenly) under the impression that on a 12 mile commute I'd see significant time saving using a road bike or hybrid bike. Is this not so?
You're right, a road bike will be quicker, but I'm not racing. The extra 5-10 minutes really don't matter if it gives me a safer and lower-hassle ride. I also find that a rucksack is more of a nuisance on a roadbike than on the MTB (flatter back?) and none of my road bikes take panniers.
In reply to Geoff F:
A hybrid will be more comfortable, stable and versatile. A roady will be less effort, lighter, quicker etc. the bottom line is youre not going to get a lot for £300. It'll have to be second hand. You could have a look at the specialised Sirius which is entry level. I also like the Whyte range of hybrids. Can you get a bike on the cycle scheme through work?
A hybrid will be more comfortable, stable and versatile. A roady will be less effort, lighter, quicker etc. the bottom line is youre not going to get a lot for £300. It'll have to be second hand. You could have a look at the specialised Sirius which is entry level. I also like the Whyte range of hybrids. Can you get a bike on the cycle scheme through work?
In reply to Geoff F:
Quad,
A short-term solution might be to simply fit some (semi) slick tyres to the MTB that you currently use, see how you get on with the new route, then once settled in, decide if a different bike would be an improvement.
Commuting bikes generally need to be:
Robust and easy to maintain - simple V or caliper brakes with cables, simple gears (7,8 or 9-speed cassette) or hub gear or singlespeed, depending on the nature of your route. Fairly good wheels - wheels generally take a hammering on commutes (maybe kerbs, steps, or in my case c-c-c-cobbles!). Puncture resistant tyres - slightly heavier, but one puncture on a wet winter morning will convince you of their worth! (Scwalbe Marathons for me). Mudguards - definitely. Panniers or rucksack - up to you - depends how much you need to carry. Pedals - I go with flats which means I can wear walking boots in winter rather than faff around with overshoes when its wet.
Choice of bike may also be influenced by parking facilities at work - dedicated secure storage under cover, or lock to a railing. I wouldn't like to leave a good bike out in the rain, but a third-hand hack - so what!
Don't skimp on maintenance either - especially in winter, water and that gritty grey road crap gets everywhere. Clean and lube as often as you can and especially look after you chain. Having said that, it is amazing how much abuse and neglect old MTBs with 7 or 8 speed mechs and V brakes will withstand.
N
Quad,
A short-term solution might be to simply fit some (semi) slick tyres to the MTB that you currently use, see how you get on with the new route, then once settled in, decide if a different bike would be an improvement.
Commuting bikes generally need to be:
Robust and easy to maintain - simple V or caliper brakes with cables, simple gears (7,8 or 9-speed cassette) or hub gear or singlespeed, depending on the nature of your route. Fairly good wheels - wheels generally take a hammering on commutes (maybe kerbs, steps, or in my case c-c-c-cobbles!). Puncture resistant tyres - slightly heavier, but one puncture on a wet winter morning will convince you of their worth! (Scwalbe Marathons for me). Mudguards - definitely. Panniers or rucksack - up to you - depends how much you need to carry. Pedals - I go with flats which means I can wear walking boots in winter rather than faff around with overshoes when its wet.
Choice of bike may also be influenced by parking facilities at work - dedicated secure storage under cover, or lock to a railing. I wouldn't like to leave a good bike out in the rain, but a third-hand hack - so what!
Don't skimp on maintenance either - especially in winter, water and that gritty grey road crap gets everywhere. Clean and lube as often as you can and especially look after you chain. Having said that, it is amazing how much abuse and neglect old MTBs with 7 or 8 speed mechs and V brakes will withstand.
N
In reply to Geoff F:
I have the perfect bike for you on sale really cheap - unfortunately it's on the wrong side of Europe, but otherwise it would be perfect! But it is this http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_3bhSo6922y4/S0zUzs-CnKI/AAAAAAAACD0/Pt1iaI5EXZA/s... so as you can see I agree with lots of the others about getting a speedy hybrid. Strong, simple, loads of space on the handle bars for a bell, a computer and a few lights if you are riding in winter (fitting all that on my newer CX bike's handlebars is a hassle). My old Felt use mountain bike components so getting replacements parts was pretty cheap - you can often find Deore components on big sale. I think I commuted about 10,000 kms on mine. Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres, expensive and a bit heavy, but after the first year puncture free I just stopped even taking a pump and spare tube with me. And I never did get a puncture with those tyres which were used for most of that 10K (I have Schwalbe Marathon Winter with studs for winter riding as it gets proper snowy and icy here, but always rode less in winter and would swap back ASAP because the non-studs just go so much easier!).
I enjoy my cyclocross bike now BUT I think because they are fashionable you get less good components for the same price range as on an 'urban hybrid' and you'll get cable disc brakes rather than hydraulics. The hydraulic disc in the bike in the pic above are simply superb, while the newer BB5 cable discs on my CX are fiddly, squeaky and simply don't work as well. If a car does something stupid in front of you, having the best brakes possible is what you want!
I have the perfect bike for you on sale really cheap - unfortunately it's on the wrong side of Europe, but otherwise it would be perfect! But it is this http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_3bhSo6922y4/S0zUzs-CnKI/AAAAAAAACD0/Pt1iaI5EXZA/s... so as you can see I agree with lots of the others about getting a speedy hybrid. Strong, simple, loads of space on the handle bars for a bell, a computer and a few lights if you are riding in winter (fitting all that on my newer CX bike's handlebars is a hassle). My old Felt use mountain bike components so getting replacements parts was pretty cheap - you can often find Deore components on big sale. I think I commuted about 10,000 kms on mine. Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres, expensive and a bit heavy, but after the first year puncture free I just stopped even taking a pump and spare tube with me. And I never did get a puncture with those tyres which were used for most of that 10K (I have Schwalbe Marathon Winter with studs for winter riding as it gets proper snowy and icy here, but always rode less in winter and would swap back ASAP because the non-studs just go so much easier!).
I enjoy my cyclocross bike now BUT I think because they are fashionable you get less good components for the same price range as on an 'urban hybrid' and you'll get cable disc brakes rather than hydraulics. The hydraulic disc in the bike in the pic above are simply superb, while the newer BB5 cable discs on my CX are fiddly, squeaky and simply don't work as well. If a car does something stupid in front of you, having the best brakes possible is what you want!
In reply to Geoff F:
I have had a Halfords Carrera Virtuoso Road Bike since I was in 6th form (about 7 years now).
The only thing I have done to it to make it commuter worthy is to add SPD pedals and Halo Twin Rail Courier Road Tyres (and my own backpack with a shirt and towel - I leave my suit trousers at work).
I have been doing 10 miles each way about 2/3 times a week for a few months now and its working well. Especially for the £125 I paid for it originally!!
The power-shower at work is a lifesaver!
I have had a Halfords Carrera Virtuoso Road Bike since I was in 6th form (about 7 years now).
The only thing I have done to it to make it commuter worthy is to add SPD pedals and Halo Twin Rail Courier Road Tyres (and my own backpack with a shirt and towel - I leave my suit trousers at work).
I have been doing 10 miles each way about 2/3 times a week for a few months now and its working well. Especially for the £125 I paid for it originally!!
The power-shower at work is a lifesaver!
In reply to Geoff F:
I have an old (20+ years ??) Marin Muirwoods steel framed MTB without any kind of suspension that I bought for £60 and have used for the last 9 years for commuting, touring and, more often, for shopping. I like its upright position and the fact that I can cycle anywhere on it, without worrying about pot holes. I do use panniers for touring, but one alone seriously unbalances you if you have any weight in it. For a quick dash to the shops and back I don't mind, but for a trip of several miles I would.
Actually, while for commuting or touring I use Ortlieb (or Agu or similar) waterproof panniers, for shopping I don't bother with them and instead use a big wire frame basket instead. Mine's a Basil. I just hook it over the rack at the back and away I go. It is way more convenient for that purpose, and way cheaper than the panniers.
I have an old (20+ years ??) Marin Muirwoods steel framed MTB without any kind of suspension that I bought for £60 and have used for the last 9 years for commuting, touring and, more often, for shopping. I like its upright position and the fact that I can cycle anywhere on it, without worrying about pot holes. I do use panniers for touring, but one alone seriously unbalances you if you have any weight in it. For a quick dash to the shops and back I don't mind, but for a trip of several miles I would.
Actually, while for commuting or touring I use Ortlieb (or Agu or similar) waterproof panniers, for shopping I don't bother with them and instead use a big wire frame basket instead. Mine's a Basil. I just hook it over the rack at the back and away I go. It is way more convenient for that purpose, and way cheaper than the panniers.
In reply to Geoff F:
I use a Specialized Sirrus Elite into work; very good bike and it was reasonable on the CTW scheme. Popped a couple of armoured tyres on it and have never punctured on the way to work, which is important to me. I have a road bike as well but I really do prefer the upright position of the hybrid on the ride in as I get a better view of the sleepy drivers. Speed wise on a 6.5 mile commute the road bike may be a few minutes faster but that doesn't constitute a long lie I find the performance difference between using the MTB to hybrid to be a bigger difference than hybrid to road bike.
I also have a wee mirror that I like using, mudguards and a rack.
I use a Specialized Sirrus Elite into work; very good bike and it was reasonable on the CTW scheme. Popped a couple of armoured tyres on it and have never punctured on the way to work, which is important to me. I have a road bike as well but I really do prefer the upright position of the hybrid on the ride in as I get a better view of the sleepy drivers. Speed wise on a 6.5 mile commute the road bike may be a few minutes faster but that doesn't constitute a long lie I find the performance difference between using the MTB to hybrid to be a bigger difference than hybrid to road bike.
I also have a wee mirror that I like using, mudguards and a rack.
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