UKC

I know there are quite a few mechanics on here as well as a few LR enthusiasts so I thought i'd take a punt with this technical question. I'm getting psyched up to change the clutch in my discovery (td5). I've read a lot about it and have a fair idea about the complexity of the job.

I'm planning to shuffle the bell housing back to get in at the clutch. I've seen quite a few people recommending a jack under the handbrake drum then just manhandling it back to the crossmember to rest. The concern I have is just the sheer size of the gearbox/transfer box/bell housing. It must weigh stacks, and I'm pretty sure it is outside my bench press limit. Obviously the idea is to keep most of the weight on the trolley jack as you slide it back but I'm really not too keen on trusting to muscle for something like this.

Some of my alternative plans include:
1. Engine hoist through the door and a strap round the transfer box through the central console
2. Make a support on casters to lower rest the box on and shuffle back

Has anyone done this (on any landrover), and do you have any thoughts about the technique?

In reply to M0nkey:

When our local LR specialists changed the clutch on our 300Tdi Discovery, they used the engine hoist through the door method as they reckoned it was the best way of doing it. The top of the centre console on the D1 is riveted on and to gain access to the box the rivets need drilling out and then replacing. I'd imagine the TD5 console is the same.

I don't know if you've considered it but this'd be a good time to fit a CDL lever if your D2 hasn't got one fitted. One from a D1 breaker will slot in perfectly. All the internals are already in the box, which is the same one as fitted to all D1s. D2s with traction control and a locked centre diff are unstoppable in mud, snow etc.

HTH

Dave

In reply to M0nkey:
Definitely fit the diff lock *if* your D2 is of the correct vintage it will have the right transfer box, just need to add linkage and lever.

Ashcroft Transmissions website has a handy video iirc. I'll try and find it for you.

Edit
Ta Dah!

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/miscellaneous/disco-ii-difflock/dis...

In reply to M0nkey: I don't know about the discos, but on a series III the gearbox also holds the engine up. It's useful to have a means of supporting the rear end of the engine to stop it pivoting down.

In reply to M0nkey: I'm not sure you can get the box and t-box back far enough with the cross member still in place

Don't underestimate the weight and awkward balance of the whole gearbox and transfer box assembly. I've probably had gearbox in and out about 5 or 6 times with a variety of methods on a couple of Defenders and engine hoist through the door with the transmission tunnel removed was by far the easiest and safest followed by pallet truck and a stack of pallets on a two post ramp

Getting the alignment of the input shaft when you want to refit the assembly is the next challenge, specifically the angle of the dangle is tricky. The nice thing about having the transmission tunnel stripped out is you can get at the bell housing bolts.

You can hire engine cranes for not big money

In reply to M0nkey:

I have to say I thought I was stretching the technical expertise of UKC but as usual there are lots of good answers. Thanks to all for the info.

Re the diff lock - i did that mod a few years back. The levers from the D1s are like hens teeth and very expensive now so I bodged my own lever out of a series of extension bars and swivel sockets. It isn't the prettiest job in the world but it works!

Re the centre console, i've had it out before so that holds no real fear for me. In fact, after posting this, I drilled it out again last night. I think, from looking at it I can get an engine hoist in at it through the door. It's very reassuring to know that some dealers have used the same stunt. I have a crane already so that should be ok.

To woolsack, I think the only real difference between the Defender and Disco for this job is access. The Defender floors come out along with the tunnel. For the Disco you get a smallish window through the centre console. I think it is just enough mind you and if Dave Williams dealer managed it that way, it must be possible.

The part that worries me most now is the re-fit. I'm not sure there is going to be a nice controlled sterile way of doing it. Woolsack, did you support the engine when you removed the bell housing to stop it tilting, and if so how? Trolley jack under the sump? Or maybe a second engine hoist?

In reply to M0nkey:

Yes, I'm sure I used a rachet strap and a piece of timber across the wings. Mine were V8's so it wasnt putting undue amounts of weight on the wings

I know when some of the blokes at work did a Navarra clutch they took the engine out and left all the gearbox and shafts in place

In reply to M0nkey:

Lots of knowlegable people on here, but to get a better idea of the practicalities have you checked You Tube ? (there is often some good stuff on there)

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Landrover+clutch+change

In reply to Jim C:

Cheers for that Jim C. I hadn't seen those ones. The job would be sooo much nicer with the engine and gearbox out on a crane like that, but I baulk at the amount of work involved in removing them!

In reply to M0nkey:

Engine hoist through the door is the best way forward, its more time consuming to set up/do but its much safer if you've got the bits!

be safe!

In reply to M0nkey:

Prob preaching to the converted, but don't forget to disconnect the exhaust and remove the viscous fan (if you haven't converted to electric fan). Saves putting a hole in the rad when you angle the assembly to get the gearbox off.
FYI I used to take the engine out on the D1, to do the clutch, but horses for courses.

In reply to M0nkey:

Unless absolutely everything works in your favour then removing the gearbox is apt to be simpler in the long run. I've never done this particular vehicle but for Range Rovers, D1s and S3s I've always fabricated a bracket to fit onto a trolley jack to allow me to lower the box and wheel it out under the back of the vehicle.

In reply to timjones:

Did any of you replace the spigot bush on the crankshaft while you had the clutch off? For the sake of £3 I thought I might try it but I think access might be a bit tight for it. I expect to have about 6-8 inches work space when the bell housing is pushed back.

Re removing the engine, I've heard quite a few folk say engine out for D1s, but Gearbox back for D2s. More hoses and wires on the D2 apparently. I "hate" removing engines and will do anything to avoid it!

Re removing the gearbox, I'd thought about that but you have to remove the crossmember and I am totally convinced that the captive nuts that hold it on will shear, so I would end up having to do light engineering before I even get the thing out!

Good call on the fan and exhaust Paul in sheffield - i had both on the to do list.