UKC

I would be grateful if anyone could confirm that when going south to north along Bidein Druim nan Ramh and abseiling all descents of mod or harder:

- that this will involve 3 abseils (one off the west peak and two off the central peak); and
- that this will greatly ease the route finding along all the tops.

Thanks,
Andy.

In reply to AB:

Havent done it though have been doing a lot of research on it since I'm planning the same. The west peak descent is apparently Mod with the hardest move at the bottom, so ab could be optional. As for the two abs off the Central peak, they remain a bit of a mystery to me.

In reply to AB:
We did the traverse last year, and Bidean wasn't nearly as tricky as reputed I thought. Admittedly, we had good visibility. The abs were all obvious imo, though a certain amount of faith is needed in going along the roof-like bit on the first ab, especially if you couldn't see it. Mike Lates' descriptions were spot-on as usual,

If I recall, the last ab needed some care as it went over a bit of an edge, but it just needed some thought.

I think the fabulous thing about the Traverse is that it's a constant adventure of exploration, and nothing is ever quite how you imagine. For example, the downclimb to the chockstone on Bidean focused us (!), and that bloody jump on An Casteil spooks me every time!

If you are confident in big mountain terrain, just go for it, and enjoy some of the most absorbing scramble cum mountaineering you'll ever do

In reply to AB:


Abseiling off the W peak is pretty unusual and would suggest slow progress through either wet rock or overcautious/underconfident ability.

Not significantly.

I strongly advise bypassing Bidean if you are struggling or behind schedule and particularly in the wet as it is a slabby basalt 'mare. There's still 4 hours+ to go (after Bidean) before the descent from Gillean so add that factor into your decision.

In reply to all:

Thanks for info.

Sounds like we really need it to be dry, with the two main things we want to get done (skipped on previous traverse) being Bidein and TD Gap.

In reply to AB:

Fair enough but don't overlook that both make great focal points for individual days out.
I rate a round of Coire na Creiche as one of the hardest, longest & most important (for Traverse research) giving 10 hour+ of adventure. To avoid a road walk and max on scrambling my favourite way starts up Sgurr an Fheadian, minor descent to foot of Glaic Moire face, long diagonal rise across this passing amazing rock architecture of the gullies, beneath the main pitch of Collie's NW Ridge, into the Amphitheatre & more easily up to the Main Ridge between tops 3 & 4 of Mhadaidh. Then head north....
The Gap makes a fitting climax to the Dubh Ridge if logistics allow (car in GB)
Enjoy

In reply to Mike Lates:


Seconded (not that Mike is in need of any endorsement). We did this in the opposite N-S direction last month by ascending to the left of Sgurr an Fheadan and An Casteil then following the ridge south to Mhadaidh. Absolutely fantiastic day out and I'd further concur with Mike's earlier comment that you wouldn't want to be descending the basalt slab north of BDnR's central top in the wet. Brrrr...

In reply to Mike Lates & BnB:



Both sound excellent, thanks. Dubh Ridge is definitely on the list at some point.
Just can't get enough time up there!
Cheers,
Andy.