UKC

Hi

I am planning a trip to Portland (uk) for sport climbing in the 4 grade range,
Which guide book would be best, ?

Portland Climbers Club 2008 or
Rockfax Dorset 2012

So far the Cheyne Wears Area looks the best.
Cheers, Phil

In reply to phil456:

id go with the Rockfax

In reply to phil456:

We used the rockfax guide and found it very good.

Beware of the low grade stuff around the left hand end of "The Cuttings", very polished!

In reply to the_liquorice_man:

Thanks , Rockfax it is

In reply to phil456:

For routes around F4 in addition to Cheyne Wears you should check out The Bower (below the Cuttings), Dungecroft Quarry (adjacent to Cheyne Wears), The Veranda (Battleship area) and Fallen Slab/triple slabs/diamond slab/lunar park (all below Blacknor South) also the Battleship Block.
Some of these areas have been relatively recently bolted, so you will only find them in the 2012 Rockfax, definitely the best current guide and pretty comprehensive with regard to bolted climbing on the island.

In reply to The Ivanator:

I would recommend the stuff down on Blacknor beach... not polished (much), and some classics for the grade (Fallen SLab Arete is a must do) just make sure you are comfortable getting in and out, as the approaches have changed a bit over the winter on that side of the island, and weren't the best for the not so sure footed to start with

In reply to balmybaldwin:

I've heard some of the climbs on the beach have been affected / have lost bolts in the storms.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

One of the loweroffs on the right hand side (facing the slab) of Triple slabs has been taped to prevent use, as well as a couple of the right hand routes on the adjacent slab.

Diamond slab has also lost a couple of bolts and seen a collapse changing some of the routes slightly.