/ Add a new dimension to your climbing wall

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LeeWood - on 01 Jun 2014

Actually, thats a misleading title; this mod is an integral part of the structure. The idea came to me after a trip to Terradets sector Bruixes in Lleida, where I observed just how much the action centres around tufas, and further on noting that I lacked pinch grip strength in certain moves. How could I train for tufas and make my home wall more interesting?

So its quite simple. Those supports which are normally hidden behind your plywood - come to the front. Make them a bit deeper in section ie. 2 x 5 inches instead of 2x 4. Sand all and plane the front arris.

Then you have a choice, to fasten outset holds with wood screws or if like me you're into woodwork, get the router out and create slot holds in the wood. I have 2-finger pockets, pinch-grip holds (shallower slots on each side) and undercuts on the 'bars'. The bars work like noggings in a stud frame - to stabilise the whole structure.

Basic specs for this wall:

Height 3m30, Width 2m40 The plywood starts at 80cm. Studs are douglas.

Angle 10deg. Both sides are equipped. The angle is adjustable with chains attached to a purlin in the barn.

The two plywood sheets are setup independently and then raised and joined with a crossing spar at top on the 'slab' side. On the steep side I have a 1inch galvanised pipe in the studs which is your the 'grab' to finish all sequences.

I have a mixture of plastic and home-made wooden holds. The single most useful wood section are the offcuts from rough slabs from the sawmill. They are the rough irregular edges (with bark) of the plank cut away in order to create a regular square-cut plank. Many of these are attached with wood screws but I have begun to make bolt on holds too.

In pictures:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=240249
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=240250
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=240251
Post edited at 13:04
LeeWood - on 03 Jun 2014
In reply to LeeWood:

Stop press! One of my objectives with this structure was to implement a knee-bar. I have so far failed to take advantage but yesterday the lad did one hands-free. It was intiially painful but better now the holds have been rounded off.

Has anyone else managed to set up a knee bar on thier home wall?
Dandan82 - on 03 Jun 2014
In reply to LeeWood:

That's quite interesting, but on a wall that shallow do all the protruding studs not stop you from pulling in tight to the wall for certain moves?
On a steeper wall you can't really pull in so much but when it's only ten degress it must feel like all the holds are mounted in depressions!
I'd be more tempted to stick an extra piece of wood onto a normal style wall if i wanted a tufa, at least then you could remove it without your wall falling to bits...
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LeeWood - on 03 Jun 2014
In reply to Dandan82:

A good point, but averagely, no. My lad has the advantage because his straddle is correct for the LH or RH pair of studs (70cm) whereas mine matches 1+3 or 2+4 (115cm) meaning as you say that there's one in the middle pushing me out. Real life tufas can be a lot deeper though, and could also force your style similarly.

The lower 'bars' also push you out, and from seated start this provides additional steepness for several dynos, after which layaway or pinch moves take-over. By the time the upper bars are reached you('ve virtually topped out.

To create a similar wall with such extensive bolt on wufas would double the timber used, and to my view - would simply be a wasted opportunity. The interest and character that this style introduces would enhance anyones experience of home training.

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