Hi,
We leave for Chamonix in about 20 days. Me and a friend of mine will climb there and we've selected several climbs to do in the Vallee Blanche, but we'd also like to go to the Albert Premier hut for a day or two (maybe three). So, we'd like to have info and be prepared for about two or three climbs to do there, and hopefully weather and conditions will allow these.
Trouble is, I've already done Eperon Migot on the Chardonnet, north face of the Tete Blanche, the Petite Fourche, and the Aiguille du Tour (both by arete de la Table Roc and normal route). I know my mate has already done Arete Forbes on the Chardonnet otherwise I'd love to do that.
So far, I was thinking about doing the south-ridge on the Purtscheller (i have a good topo) and we can do that one the same day as the approach to albert premier since a late start doesn't matter because the route is all rock. So for the second day I was thinking about NE couloir on the Grande Fourche, but I'm afraid (since it's a bad and too hot year for ice) that the mixed part might be dry.
So, does anyone of you have any good suggestion for climbs that we can do from the Albert Premier hut? Take in mind the following things:
- If snow/ice/mixed route, grade AD or D
- If rock route, grade AD to TD+
- I'd prefer it if we could climb from Albert Premier, but if there are no other options we could take the tent and bivouac closer to (for example) the Dorees after the climb of the Purtscheller.
- I know there are some goulotte routes on the Chardonnet but with these routes I have the same (even stonger) concerns about the dryness than with the Grande Fource.
One or two suggestions would be great!
Thanks
Denis
Post edited at 14:27