/ Advice on intermediate rock shoes

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Gordonbp - on 04 Jun 2014

I currently second up to severe and am looking to progess a bit. (Probably not into the E grades!)
I currently have a pair of Five Ten Spire shoes which are (I believe) sold as beginners shoes.
I'm looking to get a pair that will enable me to go up the grades a bit, and am looking at the Five Ten Hueco. (Needlesports have them at half price!)

Can anyone help with this? I've been pretty happy with the Spires - they are very comfortable and fit well.
I need shoes for Grit, bouldering and trad mountain routes. Is there such an all-rounder?
Post edited at 09:59
yesbutnobutyesbut - on 04 Jun 2014
In reply to Gordonbp:

Any shoe that's snug and comfy will be great for up to HVS. Your Spires would fit the bill!

Martin Bennett - on 04 Jun 2014
In reply to Gordonbp:

I agree with yesbut. I swear by Spires, have worn out 3 pairs and still have a pair on the go. I've led loads of HVS and E1s in 'em (and E1s don't come easy to me!). Looking at the Hueco I feel they might be Five10's replacement for the Spire - look a v similar shape.

In the hope they might help now I'm so old I need all the help I can get, and because I fancied a pair of easy on/off velcro shoes, I've recently got some Katanas; the early signs are good and if they suit your foot shape I reckon they're a good bet in the intermediate category.
The New NickB - on 04 Jun 2014
In reply to Gordonbp:
Any all round shoe that fits you will not limit you on sub extreme routes, probably on lower extremes either. My climbing proficiency peaked at leading the odd E3 and other weaknesses in my ability let me down long before my shoes did.
Post edited at 13:08
CharlieMack - on 04 Jun 2014
In reply to Gordonbp:

I would just go to a decent outdoor shop where they know what they're talking about and ask to try on as many pairs as you can.
I'd aim for a shoe that's neither very stiff (like five ten whites), or very soft. That should give you an all round shoe that is soft enough for smearing, but you can still edge well in it on the higher grades such as VS.

Boreal jokers are a classic do it all shoe. ( a guy at the wall regularly climbs 8a in them). Evolv bandits are a really good shoe that will allow you to progress a bit further but are still comfy. Sportiva Katana and Scarpa Vapours are pretty similar to the Evolvs in terms of all round performance.

I'd just steer clear of something like the Evolv Defy, which although popular, are more or less the same as your current shoe.

The main thing is that they are tight enough to not have deadspace. But comfy enough to have on all day, otherwise you'll end up not wanting to wear them, and in turn not wanting to go climbing!
In reply to Gordonbp:

I'd be a bit sceptical about beginner/intermediate/advanced labels because if the shoes doesn't fit well it won't work well no matter how fancy it is! I suspect that if you find something that fits really well regardless of what it is, that will be a the perfect shoe for you. My current shoes like that for me are Scarpa Force http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2947 Very annoyingly the updated version, the Force X are a lousy fit on my feet so I can't replace them. I've bought some Evolv Bandits instead as a) they fitted nicely and b) they were super cheap at GO. Haven't used them yet though so can't comment on how good they are!

Stiffer shoes are nice for all day use but some mid stiff ones (velcros often seem to be in the mid spot) will be better if you boulder and climb little grit routes in them too.
Gordonbp - on 05 Jun 2014
In reply to Gordonbp:

Thanks for all the input guys - can anyone recommend a shop in the southern half of the Peak that would give unbiased advice and not try to sell me something I don't need?
SidharthaDongre - on 05 Jun 2014
In reply to Gordonbp:

Outside in Hathersage.
Gordonbp - on 05 Jun 2014
In reply to SidharthaDongre:

That's where I bought my Spires!
I think I'll wait till I'm up that way.
Thanks to all for the input...
jimtitt - on 05 Jun 2014
In reply to Gordonbp:

Ive always climbed in beginners shoes, currently Evolv Defy. They get me up E3/7a+ o.k and merely highlight all my other weaknesses and general lack of skill.
petestack - on 05 Jun 2014
In reply to Martin Bennett:

> I agree with yesbut. I swear by Spires, have worn out 3 pairs and still have a pair on the go. I've led loads of HVS and E1s in 'em (and E1s don't come easy to me!).

Snap! Except that I've had just three (?) pairs and followed more E1s than I've led. But would quite happily keep buying nothing but Spires if only I could get them because I know they fit my problem feet and will climb harder than I can...

> Looking at the Hueco I feel they might be Five10's replacement for the Spire - look a v similar shape.

Interesting, thanks (must take a look myself sometime).
ex0 - on 05 Jun 2014
In reply to Gordonbp:
I'd go with Katanas or Miuras. Miuras will take a few sessions to get used to but you'd never regret it once you broke them in. Don't size them too tight if you intend to wear them for decent periods of time, get VS's and you can tighten them down when needed.

Edit: La Sportiva suggestions 'cause 5:10 suck.
Post edited at 21:24
Martin Bennett - on 05 Jun 2014
In reply to petestack:



> Interesting, thanks (must take a look myself sometime).

Now's the time, Pete. Looks as tho' they're being discontinued too - Needlesport have got em at 50 down from 90!
teltrabm on 06 Jun 2014
In reply to Gordonbp:

sorry to say, as long as they fit right, it is definitely not your shoes holding you back!
mrdigitaljedi - on 06 Jun 2014
In reply to Gordonbp:

Cotswold are selling 5.10 anasazi verde onyxx for 75, i brought a pair after 12mnths in a pair of climb x crux shoes, well worth the upgrade.

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