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Topic - Wrist injury tips

MischaHY - on 06 Jun 2014
I've recently noticed a slight pain on the right hand side of my right wrist when pressing and making powerful open handed movements - after some research I'm fairly certain that this is a mild TFCC strain and am doing eccentric exercises to strengthen it similar to how I would for a strain in my elbow.

Any tips from anyone who has had something similar/has some medical knowledge on the subject? I'm altering my training slightly to use less slopers and compression moves whilst the injury is healing, are there any other steps that it would be wise to take in order to speed up healing?
koalapie - on 26 Jun 2014
In reply to MischaHY:

I'm not a hand specialist but true TFCC injuries take a while to heal, expect 8 weeks but probably more like 4 months (relatively poor blood supply like the meniscus in the knee). Sometimes they require surgery. The main thing is to avoid the aggravating activities which perpetuate the injury. Strength imbalance around the wrist, neural tethering, and carpal joint stiffness can be contributing factors. If you relatively rest and it's not starting to settle within a few weeks then see a hand specialist (physio, OT or doctor) to get checked out. Good luck.
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jetstream on 27 Jun 2014
In reply to MischaHY:

I'm the proud owner of a (non-climbing related) TFCC tear. Having decided surgery, I've found two things really helpful:

1) Rice bucket training: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhNDPD4gxpc

2) Taping while climbing: start by looking at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skaTciVIjak and then play around till you get something that works. I've found that I use elastoplast to block out some range of motion in ulnar deviation helps a lot. I know that there are some particular types of hold that I find tweaky, and if a route starts to cause an ache I play it cautious and come back another day.

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