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Topic - Morocco Rock Climbing

Sam Simpson - on 08 Jun 2014
Thinking at some point a holiday, maybe for a month to Tafraoute area, hiring a car seems the easiest option for getting around, however for a month would be extremely expensive, what is the transport system like and is it easy getting from Marrakesh to Tafraoute using public transport then using bikes to get around when there?
Nexonen on 08 Jun 2014
In reply to Sam Simpson:

I take it you mean scooters not push-bikes? A lot of the (good) climbing is at least an hours drive from Tafraroute and there is only one road (circular route) to it. It's also very hilly (mountainous), so push bike would be out of the question.

The thing about scooters is they look bloomin dangerous and most people don't wear helmets. The hire cars are in a bad enough state but at least you're inside a box. We saw at least one accident per day along the road to the crag, wouldn't want to be on a scooter. Most accidents were from people overtaking on blind bends..

Head lights are terrible, after dark they all have their full beam on and they don't dim it for oncoming vehicles! On the other hand we could hardly see the road with dipped beam on in our car, and full beam didn't make a lot of difference.

Car hire was quite pricey, but you may be able to get a good deal for a month if you steer clear of the main companies. We used an independent company which was better value.
Sam Simpson - on 08 Jun 2014
In reply to Nexonen:

Thanks

What was the name of the independant company? it seems like a car would be the best, but for a month would be very pricey! If anyone else has stayed out there for a month or longer would be interested to see what they have done for transport.
Steve Broadbent - on 15 Jun 2014
In reply to Sam Simpson:

You could always hire a car for some of it, then use a combination of hitching and bikes for some time as well. The crags that are an hour's drive from Tafraout are over on the northside of the range, and whilst you really must make sure to visit the likes of Adrar Umlil, Ksar, Dragon Buttress etc there is some equally good climbing on the south side that is much closer to Tafraout. In fact, if you're there for a month then you'd probably appreciate the variety of some northside cragging with a car, some Ameln cragging (hitching / car / bike) and some chilled out days on the granite round Tafraout (quite a bit is walkable from town).

There's some info at http://www.climb-tafraout.com
The OAC Tafraout guidebook also has recommendations for climbing without a hire care.
Sir Stefan - on 15 Jun 2014
In reply to Sam Simpson:

Hiring a car is definitely the best option. We rented a Dachia Logan at Marrakesh airport and returned it at Agadir airport 8 days later. Price was around 1200 Dirham including transfer. The car was fine, it even had a spare tyre and a jack. We were a party of three and I suppose four would be ok too.

By the way. Road users are better than their reputation, and I actually find them friendly and considerate. But hey, I'm from Denmark, the origin of road rage.
Ffion Blethyn - on 15 Jun 2014
In reply to Sam Simpson:

If you're there for a month why not drive down?
I've made the journey twice now, it's not that bad.
Take lots of Marlboros for the border crossing.
Kemics - on 15 Jun 2014
In reply to Sam Simpson:

to be honest I think you could get a good deal on a month rental.

We paid 200 for 2 weeks for a nice little hatch back (which we abused...roads are gnarly!)

So 400 quid for month seems pretty reasonable...split it with your climbing buddy. 200 for a month is nothing in the cost of a trip. Plus fuel is super cheap.

I'd say a car is a total must to make the most of it :) hitching would be a hassle.
L JCLeeds - on 15 Jun 2014
In reply to Sam Simpson:

Hey Sam when do you think you'll be going, I'm currently trying to find a partner for a day whilst in Morocco around October/November time.
Sam Simpson - on 08 Jul 2014
In reply to JCLeeds:

Thanks for the advice guys. JCleeds I will send you an email.. Not certain yet.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Jones_88 - on 08 Jul 2014
In reply to Sam Simpson:

We Flew to Agadir in November 2012 and spent 2 weeks around the Tafraoute area and it was awesome.
We took a tent and camped at the base of the Upper Afantinzae Valley for a few nights and slept in the car for a few other nights and had no trouble, some locals even came up and offered for us to camp in their garden and gave us some biscuits and pretty awful milk stuff.

For the rest of the trip we switched between the Kasbah Castle hotel thing which is pretty reasonable for 20ishwhere you get a bed,evening meal and breakfast. We then went back to tafraoute to buy supplies and grab a shower, wifi ( weather forecast) and sleep in comfort for a whole 6 a night.
Just rock up in Tafraoute and you will find cheap accommodation the posh hotel recommended in the Steve Broadband book is a little expensive and out the way to be honest.

Guide book wise Morocco Rock used with Steve's guide was a good combo.

We didn't develop the balls to get down to the Samazar vallaey as we didn't feel brave enough to take the car there but others didn't have much of a problem with smaller cars than ours ( and ours was a shit arse cheap huyndai i10?)

It should be a bit more popular now but there wasn't many climbers out there when we were there, maybe 25 at any one time? That's why staying in the castle place as you can meet other climbers and get some route info.

I could bang on about it all day but it was a good trip and if you have a budget but manage a car you can do it quite cheap.


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