In reply to Mick Ward:
> Sorry, maybe I've been misinformed about the price of the pigtails (not pig's tails!) Maybe the Portland ones are gold-plated. (Cue Goldfinger theme - bring back the lovely Shirley Eaton!) Or maybe I'm just going gaga.
> Personally I'm not mad on them either as they also seem unsightly. I guess, for me, two staples are as unobtrusive as you can get. Next up is Pod's two bolts joined by a chain with a ring. Maybe that's the best option.
> Another thing I don't like about pigtails is the 'clip and go', well fix rope and go aspect. One could rightly argue this is the whole point of them. But to me they reinforce the 'easy, lazy, convenience climbing' mentality. I suspect that if people are used to toproping through pigtails they'll be even more likely to toprope through staples. ("Wot, no pigtails!?")
> Hmm... am coming round to Pod's option as maybe the best one.
> Mick
It´s difficult with lower-offs, there are loads of different opinions and different lower-offs as well. I just sell all the possibilities and let the customers make the choice!
The downside to karabiners is they are expensive, have moving parts so are unreliable, need maillons to fit them and they are familiar to climbers so they are more likely to top-rope through them. The good aspects are everyone knows how to use them, are quick and easy to use and avoids the dangers of threading and re-tying.
The pigtail is unfamiliar to some but simple enough, no parts to get damaged, jammed or corrode, need nothing extra to fit and are cheaper. As they look "different" most people are reluctant to actually top-rope through them in our experience at least without a back-up draw somewhere. Quick to use and avoid re-tying.
Rings are o.k but often the claimed durability isn´t what it should be, they often don´t rotate in use as they should and get wear grooves anyway though slower than a karabiner. You still need some way to fit them which jerks the price up and the problem of threading and re-tying is still there.
When you get to the top of a sport route it´s all about convenience, safety and cost/durability. Personally I fit either just two bolts if the route isn´t going to get loads of traffic and a pigtail and chain if it will be popular. at a guess I´d say I sell about equal amounts of pigtails, karabiners and rings so clearly the customers aren´t decided either!