UKC

Comes the Dervish - Broken Hold

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Evening everyone,

Was on the top section (past the overlap) of comes the Dervish today and weighted a gear placement, placed about 2 feet above the over lap in the thin leftwards slanting crack/flake. Heard a little snap and crumble, and looked up to see a sizeable section of the flake broken (but wasn't dislodged!). Probably 5-8 Kilos in weight. I removed it by hand when abing back down and cleared out the little bits of loose detritus. As far as I can tell its made no real change in difficulty of the route(It was not an essential hold in the sequence I dont think), but it may have effected the moves directly after turning the roof.

There is certainly still plenty of crack left underneath and above it for gear placements (although tbh I'd be a little suspect of anything in there now).

I may well receive some flak for this but I don't think it will have effected the routes quality or difficulty at all - Just thought I better come clean and let everyone know! it could well be a little loose up there still.

My sincerest apologies to anyone visiting the route!
 JamButty 10 Jun 2014
In reply to AndrewJamesCherry:

It'll be interesting to see if anyone does moan, because I don't see why - you've done nothing malicious, just fallen on some gear and a bit of rock has broken. It happens!
You've even told people about it to help with awareness.
Well done.

Unless you were dry tooling it.....then you've had it..

 ark05 10 Jun 2014
i dont remember it requiring any specific sequence after the slippy start anyway. plenty of holds and crack higher up.
 Jonny2vests 10 Jun 2014
In reply to AndrewJamesCherry:
No apology required. Thanks for the update.
Post edited at 14:59
 JJL 10 Jun 2014
In reply to AndrewJamesCherry:

I hope you have insurance - you have damaged a national treasure
 Jonny2vests 10 Jun 2014
In reply to JJL:

Its a Stevie Haston route. Anything that makes him angry is somehow quite satisfying.
 Blue Straggler 10 Jun 2014
In reply to Jonny2vests:

> Its a Stevie Haston route. Anything that makes him angry is somehow quite satisfying.

I thought "being awake" made him angry

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