UKC

Hi there, I just wondered if anyone had any info on any easy accessible sport crags near Garmisch-Partenkirchen in Germay. Preferably something near the road with grades from 5+ - 6c. Or know any guide books covering the area?

In reply to Eddie1234:

Have you looked on the find a crag page on this site? I'd post a link but I'm on my phone, I just put in the name you mentioned and there's hundreds of crags?

In reply to Eddie1234:

Many years a go I visited a crag called Kochel, this is not too far from Garmisch - 30 mins by car. At the time I found some Topos on the web, I presume that a search for Kochel klettern topo would yield some useful results.

In reply to Eddie1234:

Frauenwasserl in Oberammergau is nearer to Garmisch than Kochel is, and v.popular. There are are also some small sport climbing spots around Mittenwald - Scharnitz but fairly crap imo.

Some English language info for Frauenwasserl and other crags in the vicinity:

http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/germany/oberbayern/area/252786738

In reply to Eddie1234:

Frauenwasserl is your cliff, it´s literally by the road and most of the routes are below 6b. It´s actually a very pleasant crag with some good climbing, sort of steep slab stuff on what was once rough limestone. It´s extremely popular!
Can´t say any of the other crags around Garmisch set my pulse racing and that´s after 2 decades of visiting them!

In reply to Eddie1234:
Thanks very much for your helpful responses guys, I'll check them out.

Kemics, that's the first thing I tried, there are not hundreds and none of them are roadside; unless were looking a different map. The reason I asked is because I'm looking for local knowledge and recommendations, not condescension....

In reply to Eddie1234:
My post was in no way meant to be condescending, some people arnt aware of that UKC feature. Was just mentioning it/trying to be helpful

In reply to Eddie1234:

There are guides, I thi8nk the Munchen Rockt one has it in? Have a look on www.globetrotter.de

https://www.globetrotter.de/buecher-karten-dvds/bergsport/?listMode=grid&am...

There is a Kochel guide as well. There is also alpine sport on the Aplspitze area, for which you need the Wetterstein or Karwendel book (can't remember which)
https://www.globetrotter.de/shop/kletterfuehrer-alpin-wetterstein-sued-1520...
https://www.globetrotter.de/shop/kletterfuehrer-karwendel-152059/

In reply to Toerag:


Indeed there is. I just bought a used copy of the previous (2003?) edition from the DAV library, with some wonderfully sarcastic route descriptions by Toni Lamprecht.


Wetterstein. I thought of mentioning Alpspitze too, but if the OP is there for work then the lift doesn't run in the evening.

In reply to Eddie1234:

There are a few others, right by the road is that vile crag just off the end of the motorway from Munich (klettergarten Oberau). You climb watching the trippers sitting in a traffic jam on the main road 10 feet away interrupted by the half-hourly train passing. It´s all nails there anyway!
The other reasonable crag is Bad Heilbrunn, plenty of easy (dusty)sandstone slab stuff with slippery granite at the far end and quite high, maybe 5 mins from the road. Usually packed with DAV courses kicking rocks on your head though so best not at the weekend. Stays wettish a long time but o.k. in the summer. There´s topo´s online somewhere for this.
there´s a pdf with the local crags listed here:- http://www.gapa.de/blobs/klettergaerten.pdf

If possible you are better of either going west to the Allgau, east to the Rosenheim area or just heading for the southern (Altmuhltal) or northen Frankenjura anyway!