/ Sport Climbing Germany

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Eddie1234 - on 10 Jun 2014
Hi there, I just wondered if anyone had any info on any easy accessible sport crags near Garmisch-Partenkirchen in Germay. Preferably something near the road with grades from 5+ - 6c. Or know any guide books covering the area?
Kemics - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to Eddie1234:

Have you looked on the find a crag page on this site? I'd post a link but I'm on my phone, I just put in the name you mentioned and there's hundreds of crags?
Route Adjuster on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to Eddie1234:

Many years a go I visited a crag called Kochel, this is not too far from Garmisch - 30 mins by car. At the time I found some Topos on the web, I presume that a search for Kochel klettern topo would yield some useful results.
AlanLittle - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to Eddie1234:

Frauenwasserl in Oberammergau is nearer to Garmisch than Kochel is, and v.popular. There are are also some small sport climbing spots around Mittenwald - Scharnitz but fairly crap imo.

Some English language info for Frauenwasserl and other crags in the vicinity:

http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/germany/oberbayern/area/252786738
jimtitt - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to Eddie1234:

Frauenwasserl is your cliff, itīs literally by the road and most of the routes are below 6b. Itīs actually a very pleasant crag with some good climbing, sort of steep slab stuff on what was once rough limestone. Itīs extremely popular!
Canīt say any of the other crags around Garmisch set my pulse racing and thatīs after 2 decades of visiting them!
Eddie1234 - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to Eddie1234:
Thanks very much for your helpful responses guys, I'll check them out.

Kemics, that's the first thing I tried, there are not hundreds and none of them are roadside; unless were looking a different map. The reason I asked is because I'm looking for local knowledge and recommendations, not condescension....
Post edited at 20:35
Kemics - on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to Eddie1234:
My post was in no way meant to be condescending, some people arnt aware of that UKC feature. Was just mentioning it/trying to be helpful :)
Post edited at 08:53
Toerag - on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to Eddie1234:

There are guides, I thi8nk the Munchen Rockt one has it in? Have a look on www.globetrotter.de

https://www.globetrotter.de/buecher-karten-dvds/bergsport/?listMode=grid&sort=name&sortdir=a...

There is a Kochel guide as well. There is also alpine sport on the Aplspitze area, for which you need the Wetterstein or Karwendel book (can't remember which)
https://www.globetrotter.de/shop/kletterfuehrer-alpin-wetterstein-sued-152058/
https://www.globetrotter.de/shop/kletterfuehrer-karwendel-152059/
AlanLittle - on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to Toerag:

> There is a Kochel guide as well.

Indeed there is. I just bought a used copy of the previous (2003?) edition from the DAV library, with some wonderfully sarcastic route descriptions by Toni Lamprecht.

> There is also alpine sport on the Aplspitze area, for which you need the Wetterstein or Karwendel book (can't remember which)

Wetterstein. I thought of mentioning Alpspitze too, but if the OP is there for work then the lift doesn't run in the evening.

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jimtitt - on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to Eddie1234:

There are a few others, right by the road is that vile crag just off the end of the motorway from Munich (klettergarten Oberau). You climb watching the trippers sitting in a traffic jam on the main road 10 feet away interrupted by the half-hourly train passing. Itīs all nails there anyway!
The other reasonable crag is Bad Heilbrunn, plenty of easy (dusty)sandstone slab stuff with slippery granite at the far end and quite high, maybe 5 mins from the road. Usually packed with DAV courses kicking rocks on your head though so best not at the weekend. Stays wettish a long time but o.k. in the summer. Thereīs topoīs online somewhere for this.
thereīs a pdf with the local crags listed here:- http://www.gapa.de/blobs/klettergaerten.pdf

If possible you are better of either going west to the Allgau, east to the Rosenheim area or just heading for the southern (Altmuhltal) or northen Frankenjura anyway!

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